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  1. #1
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    Cassette 11-32 or 11-34

    I have alway ran 11-32 on my cassette. Is there any advantage to going with 11-34 cassette with a standard Crank and long arm RD?

    Thanks,

  2. #2
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    There's not a whole lot of difference between them. I run 11-32 on one bike and 11-34 on another, and to me there's not a very significant difference in gearing. Fwiw, I think my 34t XT cassette was about 40g heavier than the 32t XT cassette.

    Just my 2c.

  3. #3
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    the advantage is that you have one lower gear, and your gear spacing is marginally more spread out, so you're not constantly changing 2 gears to get a real difference in gearing.

    not much difference.
    .

  4. #4
    wyrd bi ful rd
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    clearance between the top jockey and largest sprocket is a lot better, naturally of course with a 11-32.

    i do not quite like the fact that my B tension adjustment screw is almost maxed out on the 11-34, but I can and will live with it till they need replacement. the 34 sprocket is especially useful for my steep climb on my AM bike ...

  5. #5
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    In more than 1000 miles of trail riding (and there is a lot of hills to be climbed around here) I never used the 34t cog. So it's an 11-32 for me. Also, I find the 13t to 11t at the end of the cassette a big jump when on the 44t chainring. The last two cogs on the 11-32 cassette are 12 and 11.

  6. #6
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    11-32 is enough for me.
    i dont use 11-34 because the weight difference is quite big.

  7. #7
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    You don't give enough information. Do you need a lower gear? Are you only concerned about weight? Climb seated or standing? What kind of trails do you ride? Are you a stick or a clyde?

    I live at 6000' elevation and regularly ride above 10,000'. I am also a clyde, don't care about lightweight parts, and climb seated, almost never while standing. I also ride a 5" travel 29er. I want the lowest freaking gears available. I don't ride in my lowest gear very often, but I want it there when I need it. I won't even consider an 11-32.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  8. #8
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    I grind out the longer, very steep climbs while seated but can and do stand and hammer the very steep but shorter stuff. I have run a 11-32 for a few years now. The bike I got in Jan of this year came with an 11-34. I rode it twice and took the 32T cassette off my old bike and put it on the new. I find that I just spun a little to fast in the 34T version. Even on the steepest technical rock climbs I find I prefer the 32T, it gives me a bit more control over my power as I'm not spinning so quickly, which makes climbing a bit harder for me as I seem to lose a bit of control over the front end.

    It's a minor difference but a noticeable one for me.

  9. #9
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    I dont see any reason to have a 11-34 cassette on a 3X9 ride but if you are going to convert to something like a 1X9 with a 36-38T chainring then it would give a little more climb potential.

  10. #10
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    With a 1 x 9 set up you certainly notice the difference between the two!
    I've got one bike with 32t ring up front & 11-34 up back, it's been good all round.
    My new bike came with a 36t up front & 11-32 up back - I certainly noticed it, and the gearing was a bit high for riding in heavy sand or up longer hills.
    I've now put a 32t ring up front on it and comparing to the other bike the only difference is of course the 34t gear on the other bike makes for easier pedalling up those steep hills, with the 11-32 it just means a bit more "out of saddle" time.

  11. #11
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    Got a new bike last season and it came with an 11-34. (my first experience with this cassette configuration) In my experience, the 34 is just too easy on the rolling terrain here in Michigan. I find I spin out to quickly with it on steep short climbs, though who knows--maybe my new bike is a crummy climber!? I have an 11-32 coming to put on there and I suppose we'll see.

    I could see the 34 being useful for long, non technical climbs in real mountains. Or on beefy bikes that are more about coming down than climbing up. Only my opinion, based on my experience with this cassette last season...If you have been happy with an 11-32 in the past, stick with it. If you'd like a little lower grunt gear, a 34's worth a try.

  12. #12
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    11X34 8 speed?

    Does anyone make an 8 speed 11x34 cassette?

    I currently have a SRAM PG830 11-32 8-speedT cassette with TruVative ISO Flow 22/32/42T for Powerspline crank.

    I'm a clyde (about 215), and have a bunch of hills I'm trying to beat.

    Getting better with the climbs, but a little extra gear would be nice.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance

  13. #13
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    I agree with most of the suggestions, I went out and test rode a similar bike with 11-34. I did not really notice a difference between the two. Weight was not that important to me. I appreciate the responses. I am pretty much torn between the SRAM 990 and the XT cassette. I have ran a SRAM 970 cassette for the last 2 seasons with a shimano xt drive train. I found the 990 cassette (It cost the same as my 970 cost when I bought it new)less than the xt cassette. I weigh 215 and run mid atlantic single track (mostly in Virginia).

  14. #14
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    11-34 is great in a 1x9 setup, but I don't see the benefit if you are running a 22t ring up front (granny gear). The first time I shifted into a 22x34 combo going uphill, I almost fell off the bike. Of course, I'm used to running an 11-28 so that may have something to do with it.
    Warning: may contain sarcasm and/or crap made up in an attempt to feel important.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by n2dsky
    Does anyone make an 8 speed 11x34 cassette?

    I currently have a SRAM PG830 11-32 8-speedT cassette with TruVative ISO Flow 22/32/42T for Powerspline crank.

    I'm a clyde (about 215), and have a bunch of hills I'm trying to beat.

    Getting better with the climbs, but a little extra gear would be nice.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance
    Shimano HG-40, 11-34, 8-speed. I found it helps on really steep hills.

    http://www.google.com/products?q=shi...&hl=en&show=dd
    To the troll mobile, away...

  16. #16
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    I just installed an 11-34 last week and though I haven't ridden it on any trails I can already tell I'm gonna like it for the steep uphills here in the northern rockies. Like everyone is saying. It's gonna come down where you live, your riding style, and how much you/your bike weighs.

  17. #17
    Keep on Rockin...
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    32 is nice...

    I've managed to bend a few of the 34s and I don't like having to run my B tension screw all the way in just to get clearance on one tooth.

  18. #18
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    Yeah, the size difference is big. On my 11-32, I can run my b-tension as far out as it goes (without removing it, I probably could). Makes for very snappy downshifts under load. Some days I have to look to make sure it actually shifted (under light load).

  19. #19
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    I like having that gear available. If you're considering changing from 32 to 34 on the trail you're probably already going too slow to switch from 32 to 22 c'ring anyway. It's a nice gear for very slow finesse ( trials type riding) riding, and for climbing that long, grinding last hill after hours, or miles, on the trail with no nourishment.

  20. #20
    wyrd bi ful rd
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    Quote Originally Posted by blmls1
    ... went out and test rode a similar bike with 11-34. I did not really notice a difference between the two. Weight was not that important to me ...
    if weight is not too important then you should go for the 34 ... at least you know you will have the a lower gearing when you do need it ... sometime when you find yourself really tired at bottom of a 30 min climb ... good to know you have it with you.

    the singletrack that i have here in the UK has a few really steep climbs that you need to spin and pedal at a consistent speed (too much and the front wheel will come up and that is it ... foot down) to get up the hill. you cannot stand as then you will lose traction on the back wheels and the climb is too long to stand all the way up, for me at least. i do not like to put my foot down and the 34T sprocket helps.

  21. #21
    No longer 26
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    11-32 on my 26ers, now 11-34's on my 29ers
    You can't depend on honest answers from dependant hands...

  22. #22
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    The difference in gearing in 6.25%. If you are riding in steep terrain, that might be a significant difference. However, to push a gear that low, you need to be able to have good balance and smooth crank strokes. Sometimes a higher gear helps to prevent the rear wheel from slipping.

    Dropping to a 20T chainring will yield an even lower gear with 32T cog than 22/34T. However, you'll have to check if your crank can take a chainring that small. You might also have greater susceptibility to chainsuck.

  23. #23
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    11-34

    So . . ..

    Does anyone know if the Shimano HG-40, 11-34 will fit on my '06 Giant Yukon that has the stock Deore RD? I hear there may be a clearence issue.

    Thanks in advance

    Steve

  24. #24
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    That HG-40 goes from 34 down to 26 with one click

    That's a pretty huge drop in gearing! I've always run a 32. I also run mostly 8 speed. I've bought bikes with 9 speed 11-34 and just don't like the 34. It's more spinning than forward motion. Also 9 speed doesn't make sense to me (who needs another tiny cog back there?) but I change the cassette to a 32 anyway. What I would like would be a 9 speed where the cogs are: 34-32-30-28-24 etc so I could use the 32 like I do now with a 34 as a granny bailout gear and the ratios would be pretty close where I need them.

    BTW, all my riding is climbing in Colorado--straight up then looping around then straight down. I hardly ever use my smallest cogs.
    A blind man searches in a dark room for a black hat that isn't there. Dashiell Hammett

  25. #25
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    11-32 vs 11-34

    I've just been at the mtb thing about a year now. Love it! Lost a bunch of weight last year and fitness is getting a lot better!! Still qualify as a clyde . . . not that there is anything wrong with that . . . gravity is the great equalizer!!

    Current set up is stock:

    Chain Rings - 22/32/42T
    PG830 - 11,12,14,16,18,21,26,32

    I ride mostly in the 32CR and 18,21,26 on the back.
    I seem to run out of energy on the long/steep climbs and just can't quite get up the extended steep hills. I've found that I can easily run 32 x 21 and just drop the front to 22 and spin over the short hill or tech sections

    Sometimes I'll run the 22CR and 14,16,18 on the back. I find myself shifting a lot more to keep the load up and the spin down . . .

    The HG 40 has 11,13,15,17,20,23,26,34

    It's the extended climbs that I just run out steam. Thinking the HG 40 11x34 would give just enough extra gear to help me keep going.

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