I'm using an xtr 970 setup as a 2x9 and am wondering how big of a difference between the size of my granny and middle ring is feasible. After ditching the big ring up front, I know I want to keep the 22T granny, and am thinking about swapping the 32T middle for something a bit bigger, but am not sure how the front der. will handle the 22-34 or 22-36 jump.
Considering that 39-53t is a common road setup, a 14 tooth jump shouldn't be a serious issue. The only other coinsideration is oprimizing the height of the FD.
Try to move it down closer to your new largest chainring for better shifting response., though with the way modern FD cages are contoured, the sweet spot may not be at the lowest possible height.
Considering that 39-53t is a common road setup, a 14 tooth jump shouldn't be a serious issue. The only other coinsideration is oprimizing the height of the FD.
Try to move it down closer to your new largest chainring for better shifting response., though with the way modern FD cages are contoured, the sweet spot may not be at the lowest possible height.
It might make sense, but rather than making assumptions, measure your chainline. For a double crankset, you want the centerline distance of the gap between the rings to be 47-50mm.
If he's riding a FS bike then this may not be possible since he has a tripple FD and as such it's deeper and may contact the rear swingarm under compression if he lowers it too much.
As to the range, right now I'm running a 24/38 double and it shifts fine. Don't think I'd want any bigger jump than 14 teeth even if I could. Loads of people run a 22/36 double, so very doable.
FBinNY said:
Considering that 39-53t is a common road setup, a 14 tooth jump shouldn't be a serious issue. The only other coinsideration is oprimizing the height of the FD.
Try to move it down closer to your new largest chainring for better shifting response., though with the way modern FD cages are contoured, the sweet spot may not be at the lowest possible height.
I'm using an xtr 970 setup as a 2x9 and am wondering how big of a difference between the size of my granny and middle ring is feasible. After ditching the big ring up front, I know I want to keep the 22T granny, and am thinking about swapping the 32T middle for something a bit bigger, but am not sure how the front der. will handle the 22-34 or 22-36 jump.
I ride a 28/40, and some people on my team use 24/36, 24/38 and 29/42. On the shimano website it says 12, but you should be able to get 13t or 14t. If you switched to a road derailleur you could probably get a little bit more.
It might make sense, but rather than making assumptions, measure your chainline. For a double crankset, you want the centerline distance of the gap between the rings to be 47-50mm.
Why would you want a 2x9 anyways? 1x9 yes. We ride lots of long steep hills and switchbacks and get by 1x9. Ditching the little SOB 22t that causes chronic mishaps, as well as the big ring that drags on ledge hops and so forth is a plus here. Not dissin you just curious as what conditions you ride to warrant such a setup?
I can't speak for him, but for me it's long steep climbs and a FS bike that likes to be pedaled in the saddle. I don't use it much, but I'm not ready to give up the granny at this point. Ditched the big ring a long time ago. The small ring has never really caused me any problems anyway.
Ive been contemplating a switch to 22-34 (from the standard 22-32) for a while. I know the new Saint front der. says its designed to handle a wider spread, or as some have said a road der.
My main problem though, is that I cant find any ramped and pinned 34t chainrings. Those running them, where did you get yours?
Ive been contemplating a switch to 22-34 (from the standard 22-32) for a while. I know the new Saint front der. says its designed to handle a wider spread, or as some have said a road der.
My main problem though, is that I cant find any ramped and pinned 34t chainrings. Those running them, where did you get yours?
I can't speak for him, but for me it's long steep climbs and a FS bike that likes to be pedaled in the saddle. I don't use it much, but I'm not ready to give up the granny at this point. Ditched the big ring a long time ago. The small ring has never really caused me any problems anyway.
I ditched my big ring b/c it never gets used and allowed me to put on a light BBG bash, use single chainring bolts, and shorten my chain--which saved weight and gained clearance height.
Pretty much everything I ride has lots of steep climbs and I need the smallest gearing I can get, so 22 granny stays. And while there aren't enough open fast lines going down to justify my (now ditched) big ring, 32 up front leaves me a little bit limited--going with a 34 or 36 just might make my rig perfect.
Why would you want a 2x9 anyways? 1x9 yes. We ride lots of long steep hills and switchbacks and get by 1x9. Ditching the little SOB 22t that causes chronic mishaps, as well as the big ring that drags on ledge hops and so forth is a plus here. Not dissin you just curious as what conditions you ride to warrant such a setup?
Are you kidding, loads of companies producing these, personally I use BlackSpire :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Their Sper Pro rings are the best.
IntenseMack10 said:
Ive been contemplating a switch to 22-34 (from the standard 22-32) for a while. I know the new Saint front der. says its designed to handle a wider spread, or as some have said a road der.
My main problem though, is that I cant find any ramped and pinned 34t chainrings. Those running them, where did you get yours?
Why would you want a 2x9 anyways? 1x9 yes. We ride lots of long steep hills and switchbacks and get by 1x9. Ditching the little SOB 22t that causes chronic mishaps, as well as the big ring that drags on ledge hops and so forth is a plus here. Not dissin you just curious as what conditions you ride to warrant such a setup?
Why? Many reasons, some better than others. I race my bikes. It's lighter. I've never used my 22t. I wanted to simplify things, and get a better chainline.
Conditions? Mt. Hood National Forest trails, and Post Canyon and Syncline near Hood River, OR. Plenty of extended stretches at 20%. I lose traction well before I'd need a 22t.
So tell me then, without the ramps and pins on the chainring how does the chain magically jump up onto the teeth, instead of just being shoved into the side of it and not going anywhere, when you shift it? And what exactly does how long Ive been riding have to do with this magic? Seems to me that even a complete noob can push on a shift lever the same as someone very experienced.
Ive looked specifically at Blackspire, as I might get one of those for my DH bike when I need a new ring for that. When I looked all I saw from them was non-ramped DH rings.
So tell me then, without the ramps and pins on the chainring how does the chain magically jump up onto the teeth, instead of just being shoved into the side of it and not going anywhere, when you shift it? And what exactly does how long Ive been riding have to do with this magic? Seems to me that even a complete noob can push on a shift lever the same as someone very experienced.
I think what Shiggy means is that "back in the old days" there were no ramps and pins on chainrings. Shifting was not as easy, but it did work. People who have been riding a long time know how to deal with this. Sort of the same thing as younger people not understanding how to work a manual choke on a car as well as older folks.
I think what Shiggy means is that "back in the old days" there were no ramps and pins on chainrings. Shifting was not as easy, but it did work. People who have been riding a long time know how to deal with this. Sort of the same thing as younger people not understanding how to work a manual choke on a car as well as older folks.
Bingo! Though I think comparing it to driving a manual vs automatic transmission is closer.
Chainrings and cogs were shifting without ramps and pins just fine for more than 70 years before Shimano popularized them. Partly the ramps and pins were needed to make shifting more consistent with indexing. Then once indexed shifters became the norm, new riders never learned to finesse a shift (easing off the power stroke, feathering the lever).
Shimano has worked very hard to make the shifting idiot-proof. Also means the drivetrain is much more highly stressed, which leads to more broken chains, bent teeth, and increased wear. It takes no skill to use.
The 45/28 setup I mentioned earlier shifted instantly, like throwing a light switch, in both directions.
The only thing I do not like about my current rampless 2-ring setups (56/44, 42/30, 36/24, 32/22) is that I can not trim the front derailleur well with the indexed shifter. IMO indexing on the front is just stupid. A friction shifter just works smoother and more accurately. Easier to setup, too.
Bingo! Though I think comparing it to driving a manual vs automatic transmission is closer.
Chainrings and cogs were shifting without ramps and pins just fine for more than 70 years before Shimano popularized them. Partly the ramps and pins were needed to make shifting more consistent with indexing. Then once indexed shifters became the norm, new riders never learned to finesse a shift (easing off the power stroke, feathering the lever).
Shimano has worked very hard to make the shifting idiot-proof. Also means the drivetrain is much more highly stressed, which leads to more broken chains, bent teeth, and increased wear. It takes no skill to use.
The 45/28 setup I mentioned earlier shifted instantly, like throwing a light switch, in both directions.
The only thing I do not like about my current rampless 2-ring setups (56/44, 42/30, 36/24, 32/22) is that I can not trim the front derailleur well with the indexed shifter. IMO indexing on the front is just stupid. A friction shifter just works smoother and more accurately. Easier to setup, too.
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