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  1. #1
    meow
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    Best chain lube for wet conditions?

    This weekend's 24 hour race is going to be wet and muddy, so I'm looking for suggestions on the best chain lube that can stand up to it all. Thanks!

  2. #2
    g3h6o3
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    Finish line wet is my #1 choice. For a 24H race I'd bring the bottle with me and reapply often
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  3. #3
    Former Bike Wrench
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    Bar and Chain Oil...for real!

  4. #4
    Tá mé ar meisce.
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    I like chain-l
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  5. #5
    Never trust a fart
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    Chain-L, Finish Line Wet work well.

    Or as 72 suggested, chain saw bar and chain oil.

  6. #6
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    purple extreme

    With chain lube everyone has there own opinion of whats good and works. You need to find the lube that works for you.


    some say (even in the mud)

    squirt lube

    pro review here

    a recent thread on Squirt in the Ibis sub forum here
    Last edited by mitzikatzi; 02-16-2011 at 08:21 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Another vote for Finish Line wet. That is, unless you can find Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. I won't use it unless it's raining, but it's super thick & sticky, and holds up well on those rain rides with multiple stream crossings.

  8. #8
    g3h6o3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeerCan
    I like chain-l
    I thought of proposing chain-l but having never tried it I restrained myself. It looks very thick and that's what you'll want, which is why chainsaw oil will be good too.
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  9. #9
    Nightmare on Lyrik st. VI
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    Finish Line wet. I've had the chain completely covered in mud for over 30 miles and it feels like its clean.

    There may be other that work as well or better, but after a winter season I was convinced enough to buy a gallon jar of it. That takes some commitment.
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  10. #10
    I Tried Them ALL... SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Bar and Chain Oil...for real!
    He's absolutely right. Loggers operate in far worse conditions than we ride; mud, sawdust, water, etc....and, it works even better the faster the chain goes.

    Home Depot sell a quart(or, 3 years' worth) for only $3.99!
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  11. #11
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    Pro Link for all conditions!

  12. #12
    Plays with tools
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    in all honesty grease, there is your pro peloton secret of the day. Apply a nice layer of your favorite lube then put a layer of grease over the top of it to seal it in. It should get you through the entire race.

  13. #13
    g3h6o3
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    Quote Originally Posted by customfab
    in all honesty grease, there is your pro peloton secret of the day. Apply a nice layer of your favorite lube then put a layer of grease over the top of it to seal it in. It should get you through the entire race.
    ... and attract a load of dirt so you can be sure to replace your parts earlier than expected.
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  14. #14
    I Tried Them ALL... SuperModerator
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    Grease is a magnet for all particulate matter and a bad suggestion...straight-up. Bar and chainsaw oil has the perfect viscosity to keep chain links lubricated, under most riding conditions and withstand several dusty, dirty races.
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  15. #15
    Plays with tools
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil
    ... and attract a load of dirt so you can be sure to replace your parts earlier than expected.
    I've got another secret for you, racing is hard on stuff and sometimes you sacrifice consumable items in the name of speed. If you use the right grease and the right amount it won't attract any more dirt than the bar oil or heavy lubes that others have suggested. When it's on there right you shouldn't be able to tell it's covered in grease.

  16. #16
    Former Bike Wrench
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    The Grease trick works great on Pro's bikes that get scrubbed clean every race and generally have entire drivetrain replacements often.

    IME-Prolink is a joke for wet and muddy, never in my 19 years of riding have I experienced the level of chain suck as I did on Prolink. Fine for dry riding (certainly better than wax) but a terrible foul weather lube.

    Since I started using Bar and Chain Oil I have not experienced chain suck at all and my chain wear has been significantly reduced. I have tested it in both the nastiest conditions and in the dry and dusty desert and it works as good as ANY bicycle lube on the market. The trick is proper application and in the really muddy days to ride through puddles to wash the mud off (don't worry, the oil stays on the chain).

    Here is a picture from a particularly muddy ride last winter, all I did is wipe down the chain after the ride and was good for several more rides.

  17. #17
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    ^^He is not lying guys. Since mtnbiker72 suggested bar and chain oil...I have been chainsuck free, while every commercial bike lube wet and dry, have FAILED miserably. Home Depot and Lowe's is your friend...when it comes to chain lube. If loggers use it...so can we!!!^^
    Last edited by Cayenne_Pepa; 02-18-2011 at 11:27 AM.
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  18. #18
    RIDE...
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    Chaim L the best!!

  19. #19
    g3h6o3
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    Quote Originally Posted by customfab
    I've got another secret for you, racing is hard on stuff and sometimes you sacrifice consumable items in the name of speed. If you use the right grease and the right amount it won't attract any more dirt than the bar oil or heavy lubes that others have suggested. When it's on there right you shouldn't be able to tell it's covered in grease.
    There are no reasons for a race to be harder on parts than any other ride at the same intensity level, on the same track, in the same conditions. It's not like there's a magic switch for wear on parts during training.
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  20. #20
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    Rock n Roll Extreme. Works in all conditions for me and lasts a good long while.

  21. #21
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    Chain L works great for me, I would definitely recommend it. The bottle lasts super long too.

  22. #22
    meow
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    Update...I used Chain-l and it worked great...it stayed on in wet conditions and I'll definitely use it again. Thanks for all the suggestions!

  23. #23
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    Chain-L. I have to agree! :-)

  24. #24
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    soak the chain in a 50-50 mix of melted paraffin (canning section of grocery) and motor oil. i do mine in a $15 slow cooker from the mart. leave the chain in for 15 minutes or so to let the mixture fully soak in.

    once it cools it's a "dry" lube and basically doesn't attract dust.
    whatever...

  25. #25
    I Tried Them ALL... SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by steadite
    soak the chain in a 50-50 mix of melted paraffin (canning section of grocery) and motor oil. i do mine in a $15 slow cooker from the mart. leave the chain in for 15 minutes or so to let the mixture fully soak in.

    once it cools it's a "dry" lube and basically doesn't attract dust.
    Yeah, but one splash through a water crossing, and the wax completely flakes itself off within 20 crank rotations. Trudge through some mud and you set yourself up for major chainsuck....all over again!
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  26. #26
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    naa...it's all about getting the right ratio oil-to-wax. done right, it's soft and sticky, but not wet.

    the great thing is the heat soaks the lube in between the pins and plates. even if it flaked off the outside, that's not what needs lube.

    i'll admit it does take some time to do, but i think it's worth it.
    whatever...

  27. #27
    willtsmith_nwi
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    I've been very happy with Pedro's Wet. I tried the dry lube route and was very displeased.

  28. #28
    Just a flesh wound
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    Chain-L

    I ride New England with lots of wet rainy days, with mud,rocks roots leaves etc...

    The Chain-L is the best I've used by far.
    My name is Chris and I ride a Prophet 650b with a Lefty.

  29. #29
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Bar and Chain Oil...for real!
    X100

    After I finish up the 7/8's gallon I have left, I'll get BIODEGRADEABLE Bar Oil
    It's only gonna take me 297476 more lubings tho

    You suckers keep droppin $$ at the LBS on crap that 'kinda' works
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  30. #30
    Whiteknuckle Roller
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    Anyone tried white lithium grease? Like Blue Works? I had it recommended to me but it's kinda spendy.

  31. #31
    Mountain Man Dan
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    Pro link is terrible, My rides are never really wet, and 30min into the damn ride the chain is noisy, and I haven't even come across water. That thin bodied lubricant is junk. I'll try chain L on this new set of gears, chain, cassette, crank. Because pro link killed the previous gears.

  32. #32
    Rigid in Evergreen
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    I just put a new chain on my XX drive-train and have been using Chain-L. It seems to be working pretty well so far. I'm so used to regularly lubing my chain that it is hard to resist the temptation now.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by runkmaster
    Anyone tried white lithium grease? Like Blue Works? I had it recommended to me but it's kinda spendy.
    3-In-One 10042 White Lithium Grease, Aerosol Can,
    $6.50

    I have heard of it being used too. At that price why not try it. You would have to really wipe the ouside if the chain after applying it.
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  34. #34
    I Tried Them ALL... SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll
    X100

    After I finish up the 7/8's gallon I have left, I'll get BIODEGRADEABLE Bar Oil
    It's only gonna take me 297476 more lubings tho

    You suckers keep droppin $$ at the LBS on crap that 'kinda' works
    If loggers use them in the WORST of conditions....there is no reason why it won't work for us. In fact, it is the best-kept secret of MTB!!!
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  35. #35
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    I have always had really good luck with Finish Line Cross Country lube in the wet but I am going to give the bar oil a try this winter

  36. #36
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    Finding a good lube for dry conditions is easy enough, but for wet conditions I haven't found a lube I like. My problem isn't chain suck, but oil splatter on the rims and disc brakes...making for some noisy rear brakes. I've tried Pedros wax, Road Rage, Synthetic, also IME Prolink that a LBS recommended. I even tried some bar and chain lube, but must have put too much on, because one short ride the stuff was all over my rims and brakes. Maybe I'm over oiling my chain. I generally apply it to the inside loop of the chain and wipe off excess. How much lube should be on a chain?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael9218
    Finding a good lube for dry conditions is easy enough, but for wet conditions I haven't found a lube I like. My problem isn't chain suck, but oil splatter on the rims and disc brakes...making for some noisy rear brakes. I've tried Pedros wax, Road Rage, Synthetic, also IME Prolink that a LBS recommended. I even tried some bar and chain lube, but must have put too much on, because one short ride the stuff was all over my rims and brakes. Maybe I'm over oiling my chain. I generally apply it to the inside loop of the chain and wipe off excess. How much lube should be on a chain?
    I use prolink and apply it every couple of rides, cycle the chain to all the cogs and rings, then wipe off as much as possible from the chain. No oil on the rims or brakes.

  38. #38
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    ^^^ yeah, sounds like not enough wiping - use a terry-type cloth to get in the nooks and crannies
    I also wipe in both directions (top pedaling forward/bottom pedaling backwards) pressing on the rollers/side-plates/rollers/side-plates etc... and moving to a fresh part of the cloth each time.
    Your chain should feel dry to the touch
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll
    X100

    After I finish up the 7/8's gallon I have left, I'll get BIODEGRADEABLE Bar Oil
    It's only gonna take me 297476 more lubings tho

    You suckers keep droppin $$ at the LBS on crap that 'kinda' works
    How do you apply the bar and chain oil?

  40. #40
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    Bar and chain oil is great! The finish line wet was my previous go to lube for nasty conditions. I still use it sometimes during CX season, as I've got a bottle of it in my race bucket for working the pits.

  41. #41
    I Tried Them ALL... SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    How do you apply the bar and chain oil?
    Squirt it on chain at cassette, 10 crank rotations. Spin 25 turns forward and backward, while shifting through all gears. Wipe with clean shop rag, below chainstay, back-pedaling the cranks about 10-20 turns, while squeezing chain rollers with clean part of the rag and then squeeze side plates too....DONE!
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  42. #42
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    How do you apply the bar and chain oil?
    I rotate chains...so I keep one chain in an oil bath (glass jar) until the one on the bike needs a cleaning - so the oil is 'applied' that way
    It's a pretty good way to do it too IMO, You can see the air bubbles escaping from the links after a couple shakes (meaning oil is getting where it needs to go)

    for a periodic update, I'll drizzle a bit drom the cap on a spinning chain.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  43. #43
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah
    Squirt it on chain at cassette, 10 crank rotations. Spin 25 turns forward and backward, while shifting through all gears. Wipe with clean shop rag, below chainstay, back-pedaling the cranks about 10-20 turns, while squeezing chain rollers with clean part of the rag and then squeeze side plates too....DONE!
    yeah, I also run a rag between the cogs/rings too afterwards
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  44. #44
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    Dead thread revival

    As a woodworker by hobby and trade I own chain and bar oil to use on some of my tools, but not the air tools. After running out of FL I decided to try some of the BAC oil on my MTB chain. What I found is that I now don't have to lube my chain once a week and the oil is not coming off in the Oregon rain. You can actually see the water beading on the chain. Never witnessed that with FL.
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  45. #45
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    After reading the Friction Facts article, I've been using the hot wax technique. Good ole food grade paraffin outlasted all the lubes in their test, wet and dry. I mix in a little graphite dust for added friction inhibitor. I've been caught out in a down pour on a couple of occasions in endurance races and the wax held up.

  46. #46
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    Have used Finish Line Wet in the past but am currently using the Ceramic version (with the gold top). Can't say I'm noticing any difference now the forest is wet and muddy. I reckon the green Wet version picks up lots of dust and grit in dry condtions and the Ceramic may be better for that.

  47. #47
    Anytime. Anywhere.
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    I use chainsaw bar oil as well. It works well here in Vancouver Island's wet winters and is super cheap compared to bicycle specific lube. When it's wet I lube for every ride. One drop per roller.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

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