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  1. #1
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    Attention Chris King Hub Users

    Why is it that King uses an aluminum cassette body shell? Is it just me, or does your cassette dig into the spline also? I've seen this with several hubs other than mine, and I find it really damn irritating. A lbs told me you can order a steel shell, but it just seems like I shouldn't have to drop a coin on a hub shell after what I paid for these damn hubs! Is it just me, or are you guys having the same problem? Don't know? Take off your cassette and look! Pictures please if you have em, my camera is out of commision right now.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: Bikinfoolferlife's Avatar
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    Because most people shelling out for a King hub know what they've bought, and most want the lightest thing going (aside from the serviceability, reliability, ringdrive, etc). You could have ordered the hub with a steel freehub body if you had wanted to. Don't worry about the indentations (but use a cassette with as many cogs on the spider as possible if you want the least "damage" possible), they can be filed down and after a point they stop getting any deeper. Switch to the steel freehub body if you want (but it's gonna cost you). There have been many threads on this subject in any case...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  3. #3
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    and use a spacer behind the cassette, it helps keep the last few cogs from working loose and allowing movement laterally.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the info...

  5. #5
    No, that's not phonetic
    Reputation: tscheezy's Avatar
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    They will dig in a little at first, but then the situation won't change or progress after that. You can knock the burrs off with a file. I have King hubs with many years on them, and all are still going strong on the original bearings and parts. I guess they could use a different series aluminum (harder), but it seems to only be a cosmetic issue over the long term.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  6. #6
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    pwrtrainer, might be a dumb question, but what type of spacer? Size/thickness? Where would you get this spacer from? Thanks, I'm a newb at this stuff...

  7. #7
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    Some have had problems with Shimano cassettes on the King freehub body being a bit loose as Shimano had shortened up the splines on the small cog, not allowing the lockring bolt enough bite to tighten up the whole assembly (but works fine on Shimano's freehub body).

    There are a couple ways to cope with it, one is to buy the King lockring which has more threads for engagement, another is to use a thin spacer behind the cassette (.3 - .5 mm I think is the recommended range), but make sure you still have enough threads for engagement, another is to take an older Shimano 11t cog and lockring which had the deeper splines (be sure to compare if you have an old 11t around to make sure it's old enough with the obvious deeper splines). Personally I had several old Shimano cassettes around and that works great for me.

    It varies with cassette, too. If you're able to get the cassette nice and tight now I wouldn't worry about it (especially feel for looseness with the few cogs that aren't on the spider after you tighten the lockring).
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  8. #8
    Do It Yourself
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    Oh no! You mean I'm going to have to replace the freehub body that I've been using for the past 8 years and replace it with an expensive new steel one? That's S-U-C-K-S. What a drag these hubs are...
    Long Live Long Rides

  9. #9
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    I have a King hub with a stainless steel free hub body. Works just fine. The SS shell is an option.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpy_Steve
    pwrtrainer, might be a dumb question, but what type of spacer? Size/thickness? Where would you get this spacer from? Thanks, I'm a newb at this stuff...
    the one that comes with a dura ace cassette. just go to a GOOD bike shop and ask the GOOD mechanic if they have any, they usually do, but ive heard they are like gold. FWIW they are like almost a MM wide. i ran my hub with no spacer in the beginning and an XT cassette and it ruined it...so i got the heavy duty shell and found out that no matter how hard i torked the system together, i would still get the gears to separate, my bike shop didnt know i had switched the cassettes so they gave me a new spacer. now no movement, the spacer will forever be in my posession.

  11. #11
    trail fairy
    Reputation: trailadvent's Avatar
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    yeah common but no issues have the same experience as the cheese.

    Use something like Rock n Roll white grease this stuff is aweome if u put the spider on dry u will be more susceptible to berring on the cassette body this should eliminate that
    Just riding a muddy trail. . ..

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