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  1. #1
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    Anti-seize for titanium frame. What to use?

    Anti-seize for titanium frames. What to use? The same anti-sieze stuff that you use on aluminum frames?

  2. #2
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    Permatex recommends the nickel based anti-seize for use on Titanium.
    There is no added value to my participation - in fact, just more confusion.

  3. #3
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    Regular grease works well, the same stuff that you get in the tube for the heavy duty grease guns, its less expensive than the so called 'specialty' lubricants and works just as well if not better, just make sure that you get the thick good quality stuff. Its 100% safe as to use on all metals/plastics as well, unlike some lubes.
    Its also good to use on your chain as long as you dont gob it on .
    Last edited by MknzBikR; 01-21-2006 at 06:59 PM.
    J-bro

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MknzBikR
    Regular grease works well, the same stuff that you get in the tube for the heavy duty grease guns, its less expensive than the so called 'specialty' lubricants and works just as well if not better, just make sure that you get the thick good quality stuff. Its 100% safe as to use on all metals/plastics as well, unlike some lubes.
    Its also good to use on your chain as long as you dont gob it on .
    Grease generally doesn't cut it... http://www.stainless-steel-world.net...connecting.asp

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by greekzilla
    Anti-seize for titanium frames. What to use? The same anti-sieze stuff that you use on aluminum frames?
    Usually people use Finishline Ti-prep, it "looks" like a copper based anti-seize to me.

  6. #6
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    I agree with GearHead that a nickel based anti-sieze should be used. Finishline's is copper based and might be ok for bike use but the industry recommends nickel. I've used both and haven't had problems with either. My suggestion, what ever's cheapest
    "someone set up us the bomb" No puedo sentirme las piernas

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOhNSAI!!!
    ... but the industry recommends nickel. I've used both and haven't had problems with either. My suggestion, what ever's cheapest
    Which "industry"? All the Ti bottoms bracket i ever got came with a small sample of Finishline Ti Prep and some ti frame manuals I've seen in the past (5 yrs ago) say to use Ti Prep or copper based in assembly. I agree the nickle based stuff includes titanium in the list of materials its use for but never seen a bike manufacturer recommend it for ti parts.

  8. #8
    Too busy looking good
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    Finish Line Ti-Prep has worked very well for me. I've been using it on the bottom bracket of my Moots Ti frame since I got it three years ago. I remove and check/replace my bottom bracket a few times a year, and the threads are in perfect shape. No galling or seizing at all.

    It comes in a syringe-like tube, and a single tube will last a very long time because a little bit goes a long way - use a little because it's hard to clean up, it's not very soluble, even in degreaser.

  9. #9
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    I believe what allows people to use either type of anti-seize for bicycles is the lack of high temeperature service. At higher temperatures (like an engine), it would be more important to have the correct type.
    There is no added value to my participation - in fact, just more confusion.

  10. #10
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    Does the headtube need to be prepped for the headset on a Ti frame, or just the BB and brake tabs?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratt
    Which "industry"? All the Ti bottoms bracket i ever got came with a small sample of Finishline Ti Prep and some ti frame manuals I've seen in the past (5 yrs ago) say to use Ti Prep or copper based in assembly. I agree the nickle based stuff includes titanium in the list of materials its use for but never seen a bike manufacturer recommend it for ti parts.
    The industrial industry: auto, aerospace, nuclear, manufacturing. Like I said, I've had no problems with Finish Line's Ti-Prep. I can get the Nickel stuff at work so thats why I use it.

    I agree with Gear Head that it probably has to do with High Temps and High Friction

    I would personally prep the head tube
    "someone set up us the bomb" No puedo sentirme las piernas

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  12. #12
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    Phil wood grease is great

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCBlur
    Does the headtube need to be prepped for the headset on a Ti frame, or just the BB and brake tabs?
    Just the BB. I have Permatex that I used with my aluminum frame. I want to make sure I use the correct stuff.

  14. #14
    Carpe Noctem
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    The headset/head tube interface is a press fit and should not be greased.
    Off season? What off season?

  15. #15
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    Actually you should. Grease helps in ease of installation. If greasing your cups before installation causes your headset to be loose, then a problem lies in either the headset or the headtube. I've always greased headsets. All the bike mechanics I know grease the headsets. Never had a problem.
    "someone set up us the bomb" No puedo sentirme las piernas

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  16. #16
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    I'm a bike mechanic and so is John Barnett, he says don't grease and I say a lot of bike mechanics don't actually have any training. Those same mechanics probably grease square tapered bottom bracket spindles.
    Off season? What off season?

  17. #17
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    I think it is just user preference.

    Race Face recommends greasing, Chris Kings says it's up to the installer, Cane Creek does not say, Neither does WTB or FSA for what I can tell. I think using grease helps prevent damage and galling to the cups and the headtube. Not to say that if done correctly, not using grease causes damage. Also, if you plan on ever replacing the headset, having one that is not corroded stuck helps. This of course will only happen when the headtube and cup are different materials.

    I agree, a lot of bike mechanics don't have a clue what they are doing. However the ones I deal with do.

    I also agree on not greasing the square taper, which also is a good debate
    "someone set up us the bomb" No puedo sentirme las piernas

    04 Stinky Primo for sale. Please buy it so I can buy more bikes, Please!

  18. #18
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    Fair enough, you bring up some good points too.
    Off season? What off season?

  19. #19
    *Hotter than Hell*
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    Litespeed recommends copper based anti-seize.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by greekzilla
    Anti-seize for titanium frames. What to use? The same anti-sieze stuff that you use on aluminum frames?
    Titus uses the copper based anti-seize on the lower Ti pivot bearings, and reccomends marine grease for the Ti fastners. Ti prep [copper based anti-seize] is also ok by them for the fasteners.

  21. #21
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    Sorry to resurrect a decade-old post, but on my ti frame, should I put anti-seize on the various screws (dropouts, bottle cage, etc.) as well? Thanks!

  22. #22
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    I like using anti seize on al those bolts on my Litespeed. The bottle cage bolts holes are inserts I’m sure but it gives me good piece of mind. No corrosion on my threads!

  23. #23
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    Thanks!

  24. #24
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    What do you do for a carbon fiber seatpost in a ti frame? I know that is a recipe for disaster if not checked. That situation often has catastrophic results.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by timsmcm View Post
    What do you do for a carbon fiber seatpost in a ti frame? I know that is a recipe for disaster if not checked. That situation often has catastrophic results.
    I haven’t ran across that, but why wouldn’t the standard carbon grip paste work? My Park branded carbon paste feels like a light grease with grit in it.
    I have to assume as long as it doesn’t dry out you’d be fine.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by cormacf View Post
    Sorry to resurrect a decade-old post, but on my ti frame, should I put anti-seize on the various screws (dropouts, bottle cage, etc.) as well? Thanks!
    Absolutely. Titanium, aluminum, and stainless are especially prone to galling. I even use it on iron and steel fasteners on machinery that I really care about.

    Deal with galled or corroded threads enough times, and you'll understand how putting in a little extra effort in applying anti-seize is far easier than repairing galled or corroded threads. Think about the inconvenience of buggered bottom bracket threads, or torn out brake caliper mounts. Those are a real bummer.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by farfromovin View Post
    I haven’t ran across that, but why wouldn’t the standard carbon grip paste work? My Park branded carbon paste feels like a light grease with grit in it.
    I have to assume as long as it doesn’t dry out you’d be fine.
    When I have used it that joint is dried out in less than 2 to 3 months on a carbon to carbon junction. I can be forgetful in my old age.

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