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  1. #1
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    New question here. All moutain - Best number of cogs and gears?

    What would be the best set-up for all mountain?

    Cassette: 11-32T, 11-34T or 12-34T
    Crankset: 22/32/44T or 24/32/44T

    Will be used with a XTR long cage rear derailleur.

    11-34T and 22/32/44T?

  2. #2
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    11-32 with 22-32-Bash


  3. #3
    conjoinicorned
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    11-32T and 22/32/42T
    what would rainbow unicorn do?

  4. #4
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    I hope this doesn't sound too stupid, but what do those numbers mean?

  5. #5
    MTJ
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    Good question

    Only way to learn is to ask.

    The numbers refer to the number of teeth on chainrings and cogs.

    11-32, for example, refers to a cassette that has an 11 tooth gear at one end an a 32 tooth gear at the other (the 11 is the go fast gear, the 32 is the climbing gear). In a 9 speed setup there are of course 7 in between, usually 12 14 16 18 21 24 28.

    22/32/42 refers to the chainrings up front and is their diameter. The 22 is the granny gear, the 32 is the middle ring, and the 42 is the big ring.

    Naming convention says the casette is always written small-big (e.g. 11-32) and chainrings are written granny/middle/big (e.g 22/32/42)

    These numbers are pretty much standard these days for mountain bikes. I run an 11-34 cassette and 22/32/44 chainrings (though my road bike is 12-23 and 38/48).

    Hope this helps. Keep up the studies!

  6. #6
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ziguy
    What would be the best set-up for all mountain?

    Cassette: 11-32T, 11-34T or 12-34T
    Crankset: 22/32/44T or 24/32/44T

    Will be used with a XTR long cage rear derailleur.

    11-34T and 22/32/44T?
    There is no single "best" setup.

    Personally I would like a 36/24 x 11-32 with a 5 or 6 speed cassette
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  7. #7
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    I use an 11-32 rear cassette because it's faster.

    I use a 22 32 44 front setup, but I almost never use the granny gear or the big ring. The big ring is basically my "soft" bashguard, good for trees and stuff, and the granny is an alloy one because I use it so little. I just power up the climbs in 32, sometimes that's the only way to get up due to loose conditions or lots of step-ups that you can't granny up.
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  8. #8
    Riding a Rig.
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    Well, once my current rings start to wear out my plan is to switch to a two ring front setup. Basicly I want to drop the granny out of the picture.

    So, it will be something like 28 - 40 - bash

    In the back I'll keep an 11-34 cassette to give me enough low end with the 28t front ring.
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  9. #9
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    Since 11-34T has the larger range, why somebody would use 11-32T or 12-34T?

    Just asking...

  10. #10
    Ride on
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    My bike came with an 11-32 cassette, and it works for me. It is also a little lighter than 11-34 and has a tighter gear spread.

    I prefer a triple chainring setup as well (22/32/44). The 32T middle ring is sufficient for 99% of my offroad riding, but the big ring is awfully convenient at speed and the granny saves me once in a while when I hit a wall on a long climb. I would consider a bash ring if my BB was lower, but I don't have any problems with clearance.

  11. #11
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ziguy
    Since 11-34T has the larger range, why somebody would use 11-32T or 12-34T?

    Just asking...
    A wider range is not necessarily better. Gearing can be too low and/or too high.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ziguy
    Since 11-34T has the larger range, why somebody would use 11-32T or 12-34T?

    Just asking...
    More Weight
    You need to use a medium cage or a long cage derailleur ( Impossible to use shortcage with 11-34 or 12-34, even medium would be hard)
    You have bigger steps between each gear (a xt cassette 11-32 will shift nicer then a xt 11-34 for exemple)

  13. #13
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megaclocker
    More Weight
    You need to use a medium cage or a long cage derailleur ( Impossible to use shortcage with 11-34 or 12-34, even medium would be hard)
    You have bigger steps between each gear (a xt cassette 11-32 will shift nicer then a xt 11-34 for exemple)
    And if you train with that 32 and build up the strength to ride up all your local hills in it, you'll screw up your buddies that are turning the 34, cause they won't be able to keep up, but you'll be pulling away. It's great psychological warfare.

    It could be 12 or 13-32 and I wouldn't care. I don't need that much range.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  14. #14
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megaclocker
    More Weight
    You need to use a medium cage or a long cage derailleur ( Impossible to use shortcage with 11-34 or 12-34, even medium would be hard)...
    Not correct. The cage length has more to do with the total tooth range, not just the cassette. If you are using one or two rings up front a short or medium cage can work just fine.
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  15. #15
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    Absolutely, I run an 11-32 w/ 22/32/44 rings and I have no problems running the XT medium cage RD.

    As for all mountain riding I would think going to a 2 ring setup w/ bashguard would be the most feasable and useful. Maybe a 24/36 w/ bash and 11-32.

    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Not correct. The cage length has more to do with the total tooth range, not just the cassette. If you are using one or two rings up front a short or medium cage can work just fine.
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  16. #16
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    ...As for all mountain riding I would think going to a 2 ring setup w/ bashguard would be the most feasable and useful. Maybe a 24/36 w/ bash and 11-32.
    That is exactly the setup on my Coiler DL with a medium cage XT.
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  17. #17
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    Hey Shiggy, just wanted to know what manufacturers rings you are using and find work good? I rode my fav trail yesterday and decided most definitely that on the tech trails not having the big ring would make it even more enjoyable and I'd prob clear/ride more of it. Not sure if I'll go w/ a 36T middle though, might stick to a 34T instead to try to gain some clearance.

    Also for the dual ring setup, what do you guys do with the FD just in case you forget that you don't have the big ring and go to shift up? Do you just set the limit screw all the way in so it won't go there or os there another trick?

    Oh I'm running a XT HT2 crankset so I'd be looking for a 4 bolt ring.

    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    That is exactly the setup on my Coiler DL with a medium cage XT.
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  18. #18
    Hazzah!
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    I'm using a 32 ring with a 6speed cassette (26-23-19-17-15-12) about all I need for SE Michigan.....

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Hey Shiggy, just wanted to know what manufacturers rings you are using and find work good? I rode my fav trail yesterday and decided most definitely that on the tech trails not having the big ring would make it even more enjoyable and I'd prob clear/ride more of it. Not sure if I'll go w/ a 36T middle though, might stick to a 34T instead to try to gain some clearance.

    Also for the dual ring setup, what do you guys do with the FD just in case you forget that you don't have the big ring and go to shift up? Do you just set the limit screw all the way in so it won't go there or os there another trick?

    Oh I'm running a XT HT2 crankset so I'd be looking for a 4 bolt ring.
    I am using 110 BCD rings ("old" mtb "standard"), Salsa aluminum 36t, straight cut teeth and a NOS Onza Buzz Saw stainless steel 24t.

    Just set the limit screws on the derailleur.
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  20. #20
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    I was wondering about using straight cut rings with no ramps and how shifting would be. I know I have the same "old" 110 5 bolt BCD patern as you on my Rigid MTB and shifting seems to work alright, but I truly haven't used it much off road and never in any "rush" situations.

    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    I am using 110 BCD rings ("old" mtb "standard"), Salsa aluminum 36t, straight cut teeth and a NOS Onza Buzz Saw stainless steel 24t.

    Just set the limit screws on the derailleur.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  21. #21
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    I was wondering about using straight cut rings with no ramps and how shifting would be. I know I have the same "old" 110 5 bolt BCD patern as you on my Rigid MTB and shifting seems to work alright, but I truly haven't used it much off road and never in any "rush" situations.
    Straight cut teeth have shifted just fine for more than 80 years. Not as quick as the overly profiled, pinned and contoured rings but not a big deal and I have never dropped the chain on the Coiler.
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