Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Matty-B
    Reputation: Mattyboughton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    69

    Adjusting Sram Type 2 clutch

    After several months of riding my Sram XX1, the roller beraing clutch on it seemed to be dying and i could here more chain slap going on. Here is how you adjust the clutch to tighten or loosen it.

    1. Take off the plastic cap on the outside of where the bearing is housed in the derailleur.
    Adjusting Sram Type 2 clutch-photo-aug-02-1-16-50-pm.jpg
    Adjusting Sram Type 2 clutch-photo-aug-02-1-20-03-pm.jpg
    Adjusting Sram Type 2 clutch-photo-aug-02-1-17-49-pm.jpg

    2. you can now use an 8mm allen wrench to adjust the preload on the bearing 1/4 to 1/2 a turn
    Adjusting Sram Type 2 clutch-photo-aug-02-1-18-24-pm.jpg

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 006_007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,907
    What happens if you adjust the bearing more then 1/2 a turn? or less then 1/4 turn? Did it make a difference to the problems you were having? Do the changes stick?

  3. #3
    Matty-B
    Reputation: Mattyboughton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    69
    A 1/4 to 1/2 turn was all the adjusting my derailleur needed. Any more and it felt like the clutch was way too tight. A couple days of riding later and all is still good with the clutch

  4. #4
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    26,001
    2. you can now use an 8mm allen wrench to adjust the preload on the bearing 1/4 to 1/2 a turn
    Not if it's an X9 type 2. There's T55 torx to get past.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  5. #5
    Matty-B
    Reputation: Mattyboughton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    69
    An 8mm wrench fits that t55

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    113
    I can't get the plastic cap off for some reason. Can you post a pic of yours off so I can see how it's setup?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smithcreek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    496
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisP125 View Post
    I can't get the plastic cap off for some reason. Can you post a pic of yours off so I can see how it's setup?
    It's not made to come off easy, you have to dig it out with something pointy. I used a utility knife blade.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    59
    This did not work for me.
    My X9 got to the point it would hardly break loose at all.
    I losened the center bolt but 3-4 full motion swings and it self tightens by design.

    Sram is aware of the issue and warrantied me up to X0.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    3
    Is there a way to replace the bearings in there with some better one's, mine doesn't have 100 miles on and gets stuck on the top gear all the time.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    179
    Just did this on my crosser with x7 and my mtb with x9. Both had T55 bolts but only needed a 1/4 turn to tighten up the rollerbearing. Thanks for posting this.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    801
    thank you that worked really well today - did like 1.5 turn I think on X9 type2 RD. after 1 year I started dropping the chain frequently (should have looked before as my chain slap got worse over time). Today was fairly quiet - might need bit more to bring it back to new (front NW is likely wearing off too).

    Funny thing I asked a SRAM tech guy at Super Enduro last year and said it wasn't adjustable. Lie!

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    292
    I need some input. I have a brand new bike, came with a 3x10. I put on a 36 t middle ring, dropped the big ring for a bash and swapped out the x7 for a x7 type 2. Problem is, when I'm in the big ring up front and big ring in the back and then shift down the lower pulley on the RD gets stuck forward of the upper pulley creating a ton of chain slack. Results in dropped chain and shifting issues. I noticed while riding yesterday if I get off the bike and push the lower pulley back the RD snaps back into position. Is this a faulty RD, needs clutch adjustment, or am I missing something?
    2016 Fuji Grand Fondo Classico 1.3
    2016 Ridley X Trail
    2013 Mount Vision XM6

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    292
    Worth noting, the type 2 is a medium cage which if I did my homework should work.
    2016 Fuji Grand Fondo Classico 1.3
    2016 Ridley X Trail
    2013 Mount Vision XM6

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    103
    I was looking for a replacement for my X9 2x10 after almost 5,000 miles on my Enduro 29. Years of trail rides plus 3 seasons at Snow Summit bike park seemed to have done the clutch in last weekend. After reading this I noticed that the clutch seemed to have unthreaded about 3 threads and was loose. I used the 8mm to snug it up and it looks like the clutch still lives! Thanks! I didn't think it was adjustable. And it was a 2.0. It has been incredibly durable. It does seem to go through shift cables especially at the bike park.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    801
    Quote Originally Posted by K2D2 View Post
    It does seem to go through shift cables especially at the bike park.
    My buddy keeps breaking cables at the bike park (Northstar) and I finally figured out why - his cable is very exposed (I think he uses shimano saint) and each time the guys pull the bike out the lift cradles you can see the other bike pedals hitting it. Don't have this issue (sram x0 pre typeII) so you might want to check that.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    6,544
    It's worth noting that you can't do this on later type-2 as the put a pin through the body to lock the adjustment bolt. Which of course means that you shouldn't have to as it should stay correctly adjusted in the first place.

    I think that overall it's a kind crappy design. It's quite hard to set the clutch so that it stops chain-slap but also does not reduce shifting efficiency.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    2,029
    FWIW, the Shimano clutch is intended to be regularly maintained. It should be disassembled periodically, lubed with a special grease, and the tension adjusted to a specified torque. It must be the special grease as any normal grease won't provide proper friction. I believe the recommendation is to do this at every tuneup, including the initial break-in checkup.

    With either Shimano or SRAM, shifting to a larger cog has to work against the clutch so shifting can be noisier. It doesn't affect anything else.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    6,544
    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    With either Shimano or SRAM, shifting to a larger cog has to work against the clutch so shifting can be noisier. It doesn't affect anything else.
    I don't know that I agree. The clutch increases friction in both directions so can generally make shifting more sluggish and less precise. At least on SRAM, I haven't played with a Shimano clutch dérailleur, maybe they're better, but on SRAM if the clutch is too tight it's physically holding the dérailleur back.

Similar Threads

  1. Wear rate on your Clutch type or Type 2's jockey wheels
    By jasonwfreak in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-15-2013, 11:17 AM
  2. Has anyone tried running XX1 crankset with non-clutch type derailleur WITHOUT GUIDE
    By Ben_Im in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-14-2013, 02:51 PM
  3. Rotor ring with Sram clutch, XX1 or type 2 rear derailleur?
    By artnshel in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-07-2013, 08:22 AM
  4. New SRAM X.0 Rear Derailer w/ Clutch
    By torque29er in forum SRAM
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 07-18-2012, 11:31 AM
  5. New SRAM X.0 Rear Derailer w/ Clutch
    By torque29er in forum 29er Components
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-16-2012, 04:54 AM

Members who have read this thread: 36

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •