View Poll Results: What Should I do with my current 3x8 setup?

Voters
25. You may not vote on this poll
  • 2x8 with 24-36-Bash

    2 8.00%
  • 2x9 with 24-36-Bash

    18 72.00%
  • Don't waste your money on that hard tail

    3 12.00%
  • Wear out your current 22-32-42 drive chain then upgrade to 2x8

    2 8.00%
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 33
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84

    3x8 to 2x9 About to PULL the TRIGGER on my UPGRADE

    So I'm riding a Marin 29er http://www.marinbikes.com/2011/bike_...nas_Ridge_29er

    A 3x8 setup with a couple hundred miles of single track . I'm tired of the Skill Saw blade that is my 42T big ring. Its either attempting to amputate my leg without my consent or dragging on logs and rocks.

    I'm also a little spoiled having previously learned to ride on borrowed S-Works bikes. Its hard to get used to the difference in shifting performance on my new ride's "LOWEST END SHIMANO SHIFTING PRODUCTS YOU CAN LEGALLY SELL"

    I initially thought I'd merely grab a bash guard and call it good. Of course then I thought why don't I go ahead and change my chain rings to 24-36 since my current 22T granny is dusty from lack of use. Even on my climbs I'm still using my middle ring. Then I'd grab a new RD with shorter cage to keep it shifting snappy. So I figure a simple chain ring swap and I could be sporting a 2x8 with Bash until I thoroughly wear out my shifters and drive train and then make the jump to 2x9.

    But then I saw the 2010 closeouts and I was struck by My conundrum. If I'm gonna sink some cash in why not go ahead and spend a little more and make it a top notch 2x9 setup.

    I thought I'd grab the SRAM X9 shifters and Rear DR, an X9 FD, a 9 speed 11-34 cassette, and the Raceface 24-36-Bash ring set. The 2010 stuff is on sale and would be a major upgrade from my low end Shimano Derailleurs and Shifters. Of Course if I do this I'm gonna have to pick up one of those shiny new Crankbrothers Handle bars and a set of Avid Matchmakers to consolidate my brake and shifter mounts for my Elixir CR's. And if I'm gonna grab the Handlebars I'm gonna need the matching Stem and seat post.

    Any nay sayers? I know some people say you can overbuild a bike it only has a $700 MSRP after all. But I figure my CEO isn't gonna let me get a new bike anytime soon but new shifters, Derailleurs etc.. won't be too noticeable to a non-biking onlooker who doesn't go ride with me. I mean it just seems like if I'm gonna sink some cash in the bike why not at least keep it current with a 2x9? Its about an extra 175$ to make the switch to 9 speed but that includes new shifters and Derailleurs. Am I overlooking any obvious problems swapping to 9 speed? New chain rings, shifters, derailleurs, and cassette.
    Last edited by Spartan14; 07-24-2011 at 11:29 AM.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  2. #2
    Made in Canada
    Reputation: tpm7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    415
    It's up to you, do you have any issues with your drivetrain performance beyond the big ring getting in the way, or is it just because they say Alivio and Altus? If it's one of the above reasons, I'd say swap in a bashguard (check out BBG, great value for the money, I'd get it over any other bashguard any day) to make it 2x8 and go from there. You don't necessarily need to get a shorter cage RD to keep snappy shifting, I rode a long cage on a 2x9 setup for a few years without issue. If you don't need it and your current set-up works well, why upgrade, beyond saying you have x-9? That being said I love x-9, its a great drivetrain and is very crisp, I'm not a big Shimano fan. Also, many people say that x-7 performs just as well (I can't vouch for that).

    Also, why do you HAVE to change out the entire cockpit and seatpost? Not everything has to match, if it works and you have no issues with it why drop the coin? It's a nice bike you have there but some would say that that money would be better spent (value wise) on a new bike, you'll get more for your money.

    One last comment, there's nothing wrong with SRAM/Shimano mix provided actuation ratios match up. Don't bash stuff just for the sake of it. If that's your opinion, fine. But people ride what they ride for their own reasons, and that last comment bugged me.

    In any case, ride and enjoy it! That's what its all about, if 2x9 is what you truly want and will get you out riding more and no one can truly sway that opinion, just do it!
    STOLEN: '07 Banshee Viento - See Eastern Canada Forum for Pictures. If anyone sees it contact me ASAP!

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    As for adding the X-9 I definitely miss the crisper shifting I had on other nicer bikes. I tuned this bike myself and still didn't have it shifting like I wanted, so I took it to the LBS and they tuned it again and I can't tell a difference. The mechanic even told me their really wasn't anything wrong with it. It just doesn't shift like the components on an S-Works bike. Also immediately after having it professionally tuned I'm still getting occasional dropped chains while shifting and even more fun is when I just lose the chain on a climb with no shifting involved, I've also had to replace the chain once already due to chain suck bending my chain. Clean as can be, well lubed, freshly tuned, and yesterday I get Chain suck and go down. When I learned to ride on nicer bikes I got really spoiled and thought all bikes were reliable, shifted when told to, etc.. I had no idea what chain suck was until I started trying to figure out why my bike was dropping chains etc..

    As for going to 2x9 over 2x8 I've just noticed most shifters, derailleurs, cranksets etc are geared towards 9 and 10 speed.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    30
    I suggest going with the 2x8 setup, BBG bashguard, and a Shimano SLX front derailleur. Like this:

  5. #5
    meatier showers
    Reputation: Sparticus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Posts
    7,330
    Your poll doesn't include the best option of all... 1x9 (or 1x10... your money). Ditch the chainsucking weight & complexity of front shifting. With 28t ring and 11-36t cassette, you've got 95% of everything you'll ever need and you can coast through the rest.

    If a 28x36 low gear is too tall for you, sell everything and buy a singlespeed. If / when you eventually come back to the 28x36 after doing the SS/HTFU thing for a year or two, it'll feel like a granny gear.

    --sParty
    disciplesofdirt.org
    Remember who
    you wanted to be.

    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by ptpalpha View Post
    I suggest going with the 2x8 setup, BBG bashguard, and a Shimano SLX front derailleur. Like this:
    I just put a bash guard in place of the big ring on my Anthem 29er with stock SLX 3x10 drive train. One of the guys I rode with thought that was a bad idea and recommended going 2x10 instead.

    I changed it out because I never find the need for the big ring on singletrack, I guess if I where riding a long downhill maybe I'd get to speeds where I'd need it. Plus I grabbed at least 3 logs rideovers with my big ring on the last ride.

    Am I missing out on something else by not changing to 2x10?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    I learned to ride on a HT SS S-Works before switching to an Epic. I got sick of coasting downhill all the time and trying to pedal 900 rpm's to keep up with my friends when I was on the SS. I may eventually embrace a 1x setup but right now the 2x8 or more likely the 2x9 is my preference for the extra versatility.

    I'm really hoping the upgrade will make the bike more trustworthy. I can only drop a chain or get chain suck so many times on a climb before I feel the need to see how far into the lake I can throw the bike.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  8. #8
    meatier showers
    Reputation: Sparticus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Posts
    7,330
    Quote Originally Posted by Spartan14 View Post
    I learned to ride on a HT SS S-Works before switching to an Epic. I got sick of coasting downhill all the time and trying to pedal 900 rpm's to keep up with my friends when I was on the SS. I may eventually embrace a 1x setup but right now the 2x8 or more likely the 2x9 is my preference for the extra versatility.

    I'm really hoping the upgrade will make the bike more trustworthy. I can only drop a chain or get chain suck so many times on a climb before I feel the need to see how far into the lake I can throw the bike.
    Sorry if my advice didn't fit. Everything around here is either up or down. The singlespeeders are always off the front.

    --sParty
    disciplesofdirt.org
    Remember who
    you wanted to be.

    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus View Post
    Sorry if my advice didn't fit. Everything around here is either up or down. The singlespeeders are always off the front.

    --sParty
    Funny sounds like I was hoping for someone to give me a clear reason why I shouldn't go 2x9 or talk me out of it.

    That or for someone to tell me it won't work because...

    Only issue I've found so far was The Race face24-36-bash ring set is for 10 speed so I think I will be ordering a 24, 36 and a Bash from Blackspire and using my existing crankset. The BBG Bashguard appears to be a good find I may go that route. Also contemplating a 34 middle ring instead of the 36. And maybe an 11-36 cassette rather than an 11-34 but I haven't found to many 11-36's
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    316
    Id go 2x9. Skip the bashgaurd and add a blackspire stinger chaintensoner. I ride a 2x9 setup. No bash. 22 36 on thefront works well for me. X9 is niceand snappy but iduse your old front der unless you just wantsomething new. That being said if you drop a chain all the time it may be a little money wellspent. I guess the cage could be slightly bent or something. If you are going to upgrade shifters don't forget housings too.

  11. #11
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    13,681
    Much of the time, complete cranksets are priced pretty competitively with sets of chain rings.

    IME, chainsuck is either a dirty drivetrain or a crappy chainring issue. If you didn't experience it on your friend's bike and you were the one maintaining it during the loan, that leaves chain rings.

    If I was thinking about replacing all of my chain rings, I'd also be thinking about this.

    http://www.blueskycycling.com/view_p...eProductSearch

    If you're planning to do your whole cockpit too, think about a whole new bike, and not underbuying. You mention trying to sneak this by the wife, but give her a little credit - she'll notice all the packages coming in, or, sooner or later, that your bike looks different if you're getting the packages delivered to another location.

    Otherwise, try to stay focused on actual problems.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    Yeah I started tinkering with my crank last and realized exactly how low end a Truvativ crank I have when the bolts holding it all together turned out to be designer rivets to make it look like replaceable rings. So just replacing the rings is out so far 2x9 cranks are hard to come by as well. I'm leaning towards this 24-36-bash the Truvativ AKA http://www.pricepoint.com/detail.htm...d=100%20TRUA21

    That was a good find on the Shimano 2x9 AndrwSwitch. I just didn't like the 22 granny. I'm thinking 24-36 or even 24-34.

    And yes I'm sure I've got a case of upgraditis but I also like the idea of building my next bike from frame up and most of my parts will switch over to a new frame when I find the right one. Don't worry the Crank Brothers Cobalt wheel set will come after the new frame. Also my current bar is scratched up a bit.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  13. #13
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    13,681
    I have to confess to being a little bit of a Shimano fanboy at this point - I think their implementation of the external bottom bracket and the way the crank installs in it is really good.

    There's a certain amount of machismo on this site, and out on the trails, about chainring sizes. I think it's kind of silly - you've already noticed that the 44t ring is not very useful. I really like my granny combination (22/34 on my bike.) Yesterday, I even found myself wishing for something lower.

    On the other hand, if you really don't use your granny, why not just go 1x9? You'll still need a way to keep the chain on the crank. Depending on what you want to spend and how light you want to get, a purpose-built single-ring crank with a bashguard on the outside and chain drop device on the inside or a purpose-built single-ring crank with a XC-style chain guard might actually be better. Then you can get rid of your heavy-ass, cheap front derailleur and heavy-ass, cheap front shifter.

    Truvativ does some singlespeed cranks. Those are probably the most economical. Smaller, more boutique companies do some fancier ones. They can be lighter, but cost more. (Off the top of my head, Middleburn, Paul Components. Check weightweenies.starbike.com to get some outside measurements of what these things weigh in real life. There's another brand I'm forgetting right now.)

    Honestly, I think most new riders would be better served by sticking with a traditional drivetrain for at least the season. I don't know your riding environment of course, but where I live, if someone doesn't use his granny, it means one of three things - he's very, very strong, he's only riding a couple of easy trails and not the good ones, or he has really crappy pedaling form. If you live somewhere with real vertical on some of the trails, you may want to experiment with higher cadence, and talk to your friend about good saddle position, before you decide that the granny ring is not useful. (And if the 22t ring is not useful to you, I don't think a 24t ring will be either. That size is popular for tightening up the shift between the small and middle rings, frequently paired with a cassette with a larger granny cog.)
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    Better yet here is what I'm leaning towards. I didn't see this on pricepoint. Thanks for opening my eyes to bluesky having different inventory.

    http://www.blueskycycling.com/produc...acket-2010.htm

    As for riding style I am a Bodybuilding lightweight Clydsedale at 5-10 215#. When I first started riding I found out I could pound up hills on a single speed with no problems if I stood up on it. I then switched to geared and had to walk some of the same hills. Even weirder is the fact that I could run these hills before I was able to ride them. I have a much easier time putting out high torque low rpms than I do spinning a hundred miles an hour in granny. My body style would prefer to squat 500 pounds a few times than 50 pounds a lot.

    I usually ride the low side of my 11-34 cassette in the middle 32 ring. So I could in fact be riding the granny ring high side. I've been ignoring the granny to see if I could ride with higher gearing. Switching to a 24-36 setup I think I could get more use of the granny ring. I wouldn't mind finding an 11-36 cassette to take advantage of the 9 speed but I've only come across 12-36 and I hate to give up top end for low end.
    Last edited by Spartan14; 07-25-2011 at 09:33 AM.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    So considering how many threads and Google searches I read trying to educate myself and find what I needed and wanted I thought I'd make note of what I bought and I'll even try and throw some photos on here when I get it all together. I was very surprised that there weren't more 2x9 crank options out there. As I said before my cheapo crank was riveted together otherwise I think I would have just changed my chainrings.

    Well here we go, I ordered a TruVativ 2.2 AM Crankset 24-36-Bash http://www.blueskycycling.com/produc...acket-2010.htm

    Along with a SRAM 990 11-34 9 speed cassette http://www.blueskycycling.com/produc...o-Kit-2010.htm


    As well as X-9 Front and rear shifters and derailleurs 2010 Closeouts.


    I also ordered an assortment of Park tools for yanking cranking bottom brackets etc..

    Hopefully I won't be on here asking how to do the work later this week. I'm hoping that my mechanical ability carries over to biking. It seems like a lot of plug and play on derailleurs and shifters handlebars stems etc.., the cranks and bottom brackets seem to be the only real work. Worst case I swallow my pride lower my head in shame and go to the LBS. Perhaps I'll wear a disguise and hope they don't recognize my bike.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: TwoHeadsBrewing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    2,815
    Neither.

    22-36-Bash w/ 11-34T Cassette.

    22 front and 34T rear gives you a really low granny should you need it. And the top at 36 front and 11T rear gives you close to the same top end of a big ring.
    "Got everything you need?"

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    Well I've got my new Crank, cassette, and X-9 Derailleurs and shifters all installed. I also have my styling new Crank Brothers Handlebar and Cobalt foam grips. I tinkered with my derailleurs and I've got it shifting perfect. I love what I've done to it. The only thing is the new handlebar looks so awesome that I've got to replace the ugly white stem, it's driving me nuts. I'm trying to wait at least a week to make sure what size stem length I want.

    I'm curious has anyone ever found extra long High/Low limit screws? If I could adjust my limit on my Front Derailleur just a little further I think I could get rid of a little chain rub when I'm on the small side of my cassette.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  18. #18
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    13,681
    Front derailleurs are pretty sensitive. Not that you don't know that at this point.

    You're may never get the small/small combination working, but you should be able to go fairly far in that direction. Before you start looking for longer screws, the derailleur cage needs to be parallel to the plane of the frame. Not just parallel-ish, but really parallel.

    If it's already like that, go to your local hardware store. Take the old limit screw with you. Unless SRAM tech support can tell you the exact size and thread pitch of the screw, you're going to have to match it yourself. I'd expect it to be metric, which makes things easier. The hardware store probably has a gauge you can use to identify the size. Mesh the threads to see if the new screw has the right threading. With metric, thread pitch is usually standardized, but there are some odd-ball ones.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    Any tricks to checking FD alignment. I had a good fall on my last FD and it twisted. I was so hot and tired twisting it back and forth that I called the game and let the lbs straighten it for me.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  20. #20
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    13,681
    I feel like I do best eyeballing it against the large chain ring, which usually has a less "baroque" shape.

    Did you get the Truvativ AKA? It looks like the bash guard would be a pretty good reference too.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    The truvativ Firex 2.0 AM 24-36-Bash
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    Funny I did my 3x8 to 2x9 swap and its a dream. The X9 stuff shifts without blinking on climbs under load whatever I throw at it it's super smooth. So I took what I thought was a minor spill on my inaugural ride. I'm still recovering from a really bad sprained possibly broken ankle so unclipping on my right side isn't very fast. Anyways there was a mob of people riding so slow on the main trail that I found myself dismounting and walking behind them with no hope of passing. So I started riding on some unmaintained side trails, I took a spill trying to ride up a near vertical embankment out of a washbed without enough momentum. I went down on my right side. I even grabbed a tree trunk and practically lowered myself to the ground. Afterwards I started pedaling and my shifting was all out of wack then I took a look and saw I had twisted my front derailleur around some and even better upon closer inspection I saw that my rear wheel was about to fall off. When I got back I noticed the derailleur hanger was loose. I tightened it up but when I reattached the derailleur I found the threads of the hanger were toast. So now I'm waiting on a new hanger to arrive

    It's nice to work on my own bike I feel pretty proud that I replaced my own BB, crank, stem, handlebars, Hydraulic brakes, and shifters but there is definitely a learning curve being your own mechanic. Every time I get frustrated I think I'm gonna take my bike in and let the pros deal with this but I'll never learn if I don't keep after it.

    I also have these really cool bird nest looking things at the end of my cables because I didn't have any cable ends. Now as the cable has further unraveled I find myself wanting to replace brand new cables and immediately cap them next time. Also I noticed the cables seem to have cut into the cheap plastic ferrule on the short cable housing run that goes into my RD. Now I'm learning all about cable housing etc..

    Already scratching my head debating the pros and cons of installing a fully housed cable run My cable is naked on the downtube currently. I'm gonna start by just throwing on some metal ferrules and capping my cable ends and see if this doesn't work for a while.
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    84
    Found these good looking Jagwire Ripcord cable kits in red with silver braid over the top. Supposedly limited edition only 200 kits.
    They're on the way.

    Mafia Racing - Jagwire / Mafia Racing / IMBA - Ripcord Derailleur Kit
    Marin 29er
    "Try not to ride too long you might end up burning muscle!"
    http://www.beeftrain.com/

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    85
    First post, woot!

    I'm in a similar situation as the OP... Recently bought a Trek 29er which comes with a Shimano Alivio (44/32/22) crankset and SRAM PG-950 11-34 9 speed cassette... I very rarely use the 44 ring, and dont think I've ever used the 22.

    I guess I have a few questions if anyone feels inclined to help a noob.... Is it a huge undertaking to move to a 1X9 setup? Do I need a whole new crank or can I just get a new ring? If it's just a matter of getting a new ring, what size is recommended given the 11-34 on the 9 speed rear?

    If I wanted to go the route of 2X9, similar question - do I need a new crankset? Also, I assume I'd need a new front shifter and possibly front derailleur?

    I appreciate any help!!

  25. #25
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    13,681
    You don't need a new crank for either setup. You'd probably want one for a weight-conscious 1x9. Except for really high end stuff, there are no purpose-built MTB doubles. Just stick a bash guard on in place of the big ring.

    You can use your same front derailleur and shifter.

    In your shoes, I would probably not get a new chain ring. Just ride the 32t middle until I wore it out, or found I wanted some higher gears.

    For 1x9, you'll probably need a chain retention device, and may want a singlespeed chain ring.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Going to pull the TRIGGER!
    By induction in forum Arizona
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 05-13-2010, 04:17 PM
  2. Pull the trigger ??
    By fishercat in forum Intense
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-09-2009, 05:05 PM
  3. About to pull the trigger....
    By Outland93 in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-14-2006, 09:24 AM
  4. should I pull the trigger?
    By LBmtb in forum Where are the Best Deals?
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-12-2004, 08:33 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •