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  1. #1
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    2 x10 to 1 x 10 conversion

    How can I convert my 2 x 10 to 1 x 10 and avoid chain cross

  2. #2
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    Don't shift.

  3. #3
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    Ditch the FD, shifter, and granny ring. Get a chain guide. Don't forget to stand up when you climb the steeps. If your bike has iscg tabs you have some good options for chain guide/bashguards, but if not an seat tube mounted chainguide should do the trick. You can also use your FD until you get a guide, that's what I did. Also, a singlespeed chainring will benefit you as well, but not necessary.

    Also, you could probably find a ton of info in this if you search or you'll get a ton of D/bag responses.

    Forgot to add, shorten your chain a few links.
    Transition TransAM 29er
    Stan's Arch EX
    Thomson Bits

  4. #4
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    I run 1x8

    I run 1x8 and don't find chain cross a big problem. My front 32t chainring is in the middle position on a triple crank. So when I am using the high or low rear sprocket, the chain angle isn't that severe.

    What are you currently running up front? Granny + middle (32ish t)? Or middle + outer (32t + 42t?)? If you are running a granny plus middle, you shouldn't need to shorten the chain, because it is already setup for your middle ring. (when I say "middle ring" I mean a chainring of approx 30-36 teeth, that would typically be used as a middle ring in a triple setup).

  5. #5
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    Yesterday tested xx1 crank with XTR (type1) rear. Last two rings does not work correctly (chain just jumps over tooths when full power applied) , switching works, no chain-drop.. So, You need type2 rear derailleur to work everything like it should be.
    Scott Scale 29er FHT, Scott Foil, Chinese 29er FHT

  6. #6
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    2 x10 to 1 x 10 conversion

    Skip the chain guides and get a Wolf Tooth Components chain ring.
    Lots of folks running this set-up with no issues.

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