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  1. #1
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    1X9 set up / need advice

    1st time setting up a 1X9 and would appreciate feedback (+ or -)

    Cranks: Shimano Hone Cranks HollowTech II & BB M601
    remove the small gear
    photo:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=10283

    Cassette: Shimano XT 9sp M760
    Photo
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=3403

    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR R-Mech Rapid Rise M953
    Photo: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...px?ModelID=370

    Front Derailleur: use old one currently on bike: avoid chain guide and pulleys...

    Chain: SRAM PC 991 9sp

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    Front derailleur might not completely prevent chainsuck. It's also weighty. Have you considered something like the N-gear?

  3. #3
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    understand your point, but have the following wordy question...

    I currently have 3X9 and exclusively use the middle chainring with no chain suck. The current components are much lower quaility than what I plan to purchase.

    Is there something about my future set up that would lead to chain suck?

    thanx

  4. #4
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    Use what you have!

    I recently went through same process. I tested 1x9 concept by riding exclusivesly in middle ring for a couple weeks. Then, I shopped online for buying fancy new singlspeed crank. After looking at http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php I learned that "upgrading" would not save any weight vs. my functional old crank.

    So, I removed small and large rings, shifter, and derailleur and went riding with my old 32t pinned/ramped Shimano XT ring. After reading this forum, assumed my chain would fall off and I would need to buy JumpStop and/or a bashguard. Well, I have been riding like this for 2 weeks and have not dropped the chain yet.

    Why buy a new Hone crankset? If your current crank and middle ring works for you, use them! Hone is both heavy and expensive. They look great when new, but the dark finish shows every scratch.

    Why buy new rear mech? Again, your current one works and it does not care if you're running 1x9 or 3x9.

    My advice:
    Remove parts and ride 1x9 for a few weeks. If you need an 11-34 cassette, buy that and the chain. Shorten your chain as much as possible. Higher tension helps keep chain from jumping off. Try without the front mech and see if your chain jumps. If chain jumps, you have a couple choices:

    Install front derailleur. Or...

    If you chain jumps inside, install one of these:
    http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html

    If your chain jumps outside, install a bashguard. The cheapest bashguard is your current big ring (free!). It is lighter than commercial bashguards and fits your crank perfectly. Keeping the big ring also saves you from buying hard-to-find, expensive, weaker (less threads) singlespeed chainring bolts. If you're bored, you can grind off the teeth using a bench grinder or file. The aluminum will load up the grinding wheel or file, so clean it often.

    Once you're ABSOLUTELY sure you don't want more rings, spend money!

    Rear derailleur - Short-cage rear derailleur shifts a little faster and keeps chain tighter. I prefer SRAM design, but that would force you to buy a new shifter. Some Shimano road derailleurs can handle 11-34t cassette, and they cost less than XTR for same weight.

    Cranks - Compact road cranks are lighter and come with 34/50 rings. If 34t works for you, you can save some weight and money by buying one and removing the 50t ring. The cranks have 110mm 5-bolt pattern, same as old MTB cranks, so you can get 34-38t singlespeed rings and bashguards.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dms1818's Avatar
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    This is my 2nd season on my 1x9.
    Shimano LX HTII crank
    KMC 9 speed chain
    XT rear der
    Sram 11-32 cassatte
    Salsa 34T SS chain ring
    I didn't have many chain suck/chain jumping issues with my ramped and pinned 32T with no N-Stop. But the best upgrade that I made was installing Salsa 34T SS ring. Now my drive train is super smooth and totally silent. A ramped and pinned chainring is good but a SS
    ring is so much better. Good Luck

  6. #6
    All 26.5" all the time!
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    Quote Originally Posted by bearburrell
    understand your point, but have the following wordy question...

    I currently have 3X9 and exclusively use the middle chainring with no chain suck. The current components are much lower quaility than what I plan to purchase.

    Is there something about my future set up that would lead to chain suck?

    thanx

    Chain suck isn't much of an issue with a single ring up front -- see here: http://www.fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/NOT-SUCK.htm
    And here: http://www.fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/



    Unintended chain derailment is the major issue and can be solved with a front derailleur, a jump-stop type device and bashring, or careful chainline adjustment.

  7. #7
    local trails rider
    Reputation: perttime's Avatar
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    Is it a HT or FS bike?
    I have understood that FS bikes are more likely to have issues with derailment in the front. Rough terrain and slack chain can also play a role.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the feedback. I'll try to answer the questions that have been posted:

    the bike is a Full Suspension (2004 Kona Kikapu Deluxe)

    why change the cranks: I damaged the pedal holes installing flat pedals for the winter. They're stripped and I put inserts in but they won't last forever. The BB is worn out, and I've been told it's cheaper to just buy a new crankset. If the Shimano Hone is too heavy and expensive please suggest a substitue. Weight is not that much of an issue. (I should lose some weight from the motor first, and I really need a sturdy set up first of all) I just need something solid that will last the next 3-5 years. I'm sure i want a 1X9 and having a 11-34 rear cassette will give me that little extra easy gear if I ever need it. If I need an easier gear I'll just walk.

    Why new derailleur and cassete? Both are thrashed. I'm living in Stockholm, Sweden and the surrounding area has trails that eat bikes. Rocks and roots, mud and snow. I want something that I can hammer and will shift nicely with little maintenance for the next few years.

    Thanks all.

  9. #9
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    what does ramped and pinned mean.

    Also, I assume that when you say a Salsa 34T ring, you just mean a 34T ring that is mostly used with Single Speeds, but it's really the 34T vs.32T that works well.

  10. #10
    mechmann_mtb
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    there is a ton of info on setups in the 1x9 pictures thread. have fun!! 1x9 is the way to go.

  11. #11
    local trails rider
    Reputation: perttime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bearburrell
    what does ramped and pinned mean.
    It refers to the shapes that chainrings meant for shifting have on the sides. They may make it easier for the chain to jump off. Chainrings for SS or DH are smooth on the sides.

    I believe Shimano LX is a good value and Hone is almost the same thing. I think the Hone with double rings and bashguard is supposed to have a stronger axle.

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