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Thread: 1x9 help

  1. #1
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    1x9 help

    I have an old 2006 S-Works Enduro that I was thinking about converting to 1x9. I don't want to spend much or any cash, so:

    Do I need a singlespeed chainring, or can I just use my pinned and ramped middle (I understand I'll need shallower nuts or some washers, though)?
    Do I really need a chainguard/guide?

  2. #2
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    You can use your existing chainring , a chain guide is probably going to be required to keep from dropping the chain . Shorter chainring bolts will be needed without a bashguard . Ideally a single speed chainring would be used , but not nessasary . I prefer the Pauls chain keeper FWIW .

    www.paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html -

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by twistagrip
    I have an old 2006 S-Works Enduro that I was thinking about converting to 1x9. I don't want to spend much or any cash, so:

    Do I need a singlespeed chainring, or can I just use my pinned and ramped middle (I understand I'll need shallower nuts or some washers, though)?
    Do I really need a chainguard/guide?
    For MINIMAL cash outlay 1x9 conversion:

    - BMX chainbolts or chainbolt washers ($10ish) for holding that single ring - none if bashguard
    - N Stop chainstop thingy ($15 ish?)
    - Bashguard ($20ish - make sure you get the right BCD bolt/pattern)

    For next step
    - Unramped BMX chainring ($35 ish)

    Yes you need the chainguard/guide to prevent chain jump off your ring. You could chance it without, but I wouldn't.

    Paul chainkeeper unlikely to work on your dual suspension frame due to where it mounts on your seattube. If you decide to go with a real chainguide, go with the MRP 1.x

  4. #4
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    There is a page on here full of pictures of 1x9 setups, but for some reason I can't get into it. Anyone else have that problem? If it were possible to see that section you might get some ideas on what to build.

  5. #5
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    An old/trash front derailleur can be used to keep the chain from dropping too - might be something you have on hand.



    My rigged up Deore "jump-stop"

  6. #6
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    I've done a BBG bashguard and N-gear Jumpstop on 2 bikes now with great success. Inexpensive, high quality, light, and works great, what more can you ask for? An old front derailleur like above works too.

    Here's my old hardtail

  7. #7
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    I've got the same setup (but with a spot guard). Works great.

    N-Gear Jumpstop plus a BBG bashguard will put you back about $30, shipping included It is all you will need for the conversion.

    Make sure to shorten the chain.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bycyclist

    Paul chainkeeper unlikely to work on your dual suspension frame due to where it mounts on your seattube. If you decide to go with a real chainguide, go with the MRP 1.x
    Paul now makes a version of his chainkeeper that will attach to the bottom bracket. I think Paul's chainkeeper looks much better then the MRP version. Much cleaner for sure.
    CyclingCentralVa.org

  9. #9
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    +1 for the BBG. My LBS made a sweet chain keeper for me out of a seat tube style reflector bracket.

  10. #10
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    what size ring up front would you guys recommend. i am now riding 11-30 in the rear and have a 32 middle ring up front with granny. I also want to go 1by9. i was thinking of running a 30 tooth up front with 11-34 in rear? would this be adequate on steep climbs or should i go smaller in front? thanks. this has been informative thus far.

  11. #11
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    If you know what the lowest gear you go to on your steepest climbs, then you can figure out the gearing and can tell if a 30/34 would work or not. You could also switch to the newer 36t cassette if those extra 2 teeth would help.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by loggerhead
    what size ring up front would you guys recommend. i am now riding 11-30 in the rear and have a 32 middle ring up front with granny. I also want to go 1by9. i was thinking of running a 30 tooth up front with 11-34 in rear? would this be adequate on steep climbs or should i go smaller in front? thanks. this has been informative thus far.
    What crankset are you running? 32t may be the smallest you can run in the middle postition.

  13. #13
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    I use a Surly stainless steel SS chainring, this should out last all others. Maybe not Ti. though.
    milesW

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    What crankset are you running? 32t may be the smallest you can run in the middle postition.
    There are custom 30T options for 104bcd cranks, although they require some minor modifications to the cranks to work.

    http://andersenmachine.com/product-info/

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles wadsworth
    I use a Surly stainless steel SS chainring, this should out last all others. Maybe not Ti. though.
    You run that with a 1x9 setup? Mine did not work well at all with a 9 speed chain.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by wankel
    There are custom 30T options for 104bcd cranks, although they require some minor modifications to the cranks to work.

    http://andersenmachine.com/product-info/
    $90? D@mn

  17. #17
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    I got the MRP 1x chain guild a few weeks ago and love it!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    What crankset are you running? 32t may be the smallest you can run in the middle postition.
    I have an old caramba double barrel crankset with a tapered spindle. It is compact 94 bcd. It is also 5 bolt. I am having a hard time finding a middle ring with 5 bolt. I also just thought of using my 8 speed in the back but I think the biggest sized ring is 32 tooth. This might be too small using a 32 tooth front ring as I probably won't get enough torque on steep climbs.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    $90? D@mn
    Ya, they're a little pricey. The unramped version is $69. I believe Extralite makes one as well, for around the same price.

  20. #20
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    if you have a tapered b.b., the mrp will not work. there is not enough grap for the cups to hold on. i just ordered the pauls chain guide because it locks onto the seat tube. will let you know how this works out.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    You run that with a 1x9 setup? Mine did not work well at all with a 9 speed chain.
    Im having this problem now too.

    I put the surly ss chainring on my bike, but did not change the chain and didn't have any issues. We just rebuilt my friends drivetrain to go 1x9 and put on a new chain. His chain was getting stuck... upon further inspection, we found that my chainring caused the same issue; but i guess since my chain was older/more worn it wouldnt jam up..

    damnit
    -09 GF X-Caliber
    -38Frameworks Jackalope
    -13 Mukluk 2 (hers)

  22. #22
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    according to surly...

    Quote Originally Posted by surlybikes.com
    * Our original chainrings were made with a 2.2-2.3mm thick stock plate and required use of 5-8 speed chains. These were sold through summer 2007. Everything since summer/fall 2007 have a narrower 2.1mm tooth thickness and are compatible with 6-9 speed chains.
    might wanna get a hold of them, see what they have to say
    Last edited by kanai; 03-20-2010 at 09:14 AM.
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