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  1. #1
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    1x9 drivetrain and gearing input

    I am setting up a 1x9 and am looking for input, and yes, probably some arguments, about drivetrains.

    In addition, perspective in ring sizes for styles of riding etc. I am mostly XC trailriding in the northwest, not unusual to climb 2k on a ride...

    I am hoping to keep the drivetrain under 200$ (used parts considered).

    Setting up a 29er, hard tail...

  2. #2
    AZ
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    Your $200.00 figure is for purchasing your complete drivetrain ?

  3. #3
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    Sorry, was actually just thinking 2 bills for a crank arm +/- and bracket...
    Thanks-

  4. #4
    IllumaDucati
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    Essentially you need to determine how low you want your lowest gear to be, how tall you want your highest gear to be, and then see what kind of gaps you'll have between the gears with different cassettes. If you haven't read it yet, this thread will give you lots of ideas.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the thread- some ideas there...
    Yep, trying to figure out the spacing and looking for ideas regarding some sort of 'optimum' gear ratios for getting the most out of climbing while not building a DH bike.
    Also, interested in seeing what people think are solid cranksets without getting into the 400$ range.

    Thanks for that-

  6. #6
    AZ
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    For a crankset I'd go for a used Shimano XT . Can be had on the Bay for about $80.00 if your patient . Have you considered a 2x9 setup ?

  7. #7
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    I have thought about a 2x9, definitely adds some flexibility. I think i am leaning more towards dropping the shifter and derailleur altogether.

    I have spent some time on a few 1x9 setups and it seems to work out, though i have not been sold on a particular gearing. I will read the above mentioned thread more carefully and see what i can learn there.

    Thanks for the input-

  8. #8
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    I ride a 1x9, 32T Front, 11-32 in the back. Race Face Ride XC Cranks, with a hollowtech style BB. Salsa 32T Single Speed Chain Ring, and a Sram PG990 11-32 Cassette. X.9 Short cage Derailleur with a x.7 Shifter.

    If you dont think 11-32 is enough in the back go for a 11-34. Easiest way to see what you would like is to just ride you current bike and just avoid shifting out of the middle ring. Give you a good idea if your your bikes current gearing will work on the trails in your area.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  9. #9
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    You can get a New LX crankset off ebay for $90 shipped. LX crank arms are only 10g heavier than XT.

    Then add in another $30 for a SS ring, $10 for SS bolts if necessary.

    You also need to decide what kind of chain retention you want. You basically have 3 choices:

    1) Full blown chainguide (approx 200g - 350g, and $50 - $150), available in configurations with and without bash. E.13 LG1, E.13 SRS, Gamut G25 etc.

    2) XC type guide (no bash, approx 60g, $40) MRP 1.X

    3) Bash with Jump Stop (approx 90g, $30) BBG Bash + N Gear Jump Stop

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskoolbiker
    You can get a New LX crankset off ebay for $90 shipped. LX crank arms are only 10g heavier than XT.

    Then add in another $30 for a SS ring, $10 for SS bolts if necessary.

    You also need to decide what kind of chain retention you want. You basically have 3 choices:

    1) Full blown chainguide (approx 200g - 350g, and $50 - $150), available in configurations with and without bash. E.13 LG1, E.13 SRS, Gamut G25 etc.

    2) XC type guide (no bash, approx 60g, $40) MRP 1.X

    3) Bash with Jump Stop (approx 90g, $30) BBG Bash + N Gear Jump Stop
    4) Bashguard with inner ring (sandwich style)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskoolbiker
    You can get a New LX crankset off ebay for $90 shipped.
    Jenson's got them for $85 right now.

  12. #12
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    I'd be interested to see if anyone else has done this--- I am considering this on my 09 5Spot: 1x9, 24t inner front, with 11-34 rear. Bash guard only (no middle or outer ring). I will not need a guide as long as I have a high quality inner ring. I am amazed how well the 5Spot pedals and I can basically go pretty fast on the inner ring on the 11t cog. I want to be able to use easy granny gear for steep climbs. Has anyone seen a 26 or 28 tooth inner ring??

  13. #13
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    Sounds like a reasonable idea if you are trying to shave weight by reducing the rear cassette, as opposed to going for a 12-36t. I set one of those up for a 1x9 with 32 up front. For the riding i do that has added just enough granny action to be noticeable. If you want to go even lower, you could get a smaller font ring. I think you could run a small single ring up front but, from my experience, not having some type of chain guide does not work. If you are riding really smooth trails on the downhill you may be able to get away with it, but there are options that added only a few grams to your rig. If you do find an inner ring that keeps chain on during fast downhills involving rock, root and drops, let me know.

    I just finished going through the similar process and am interested to see what people have come up with. My feeling is if you are basically climbing steep and dropping really fast, getting a super low gear is great, however chain guide will be mandatory.

    Chainstops are pretty light and very simple. I got one of these:
    http://www.bikeman.com/CH5800.html?u...ign=GoogleBase

    Which is just enough to hold it together. I still have times where the chain jumps but it is very rare. I have a RF diabolous with one ring and a guard, 32t.

    Good luck, be interested to see what you find out.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPDX
    I'd be interested to see if anyone else has done this--- I am considering this on my 09 5Spot: 1x9, 24t inner front, with 11-34 rear. Bash guard only (no middle or outer ring). I will not need a guide as long as I have a high quality inner ring. I am amazed how well the 5Spot pedals and I can basically go pretty fast on the inner ring on the 11t cog. I want to be able to use easy granny gear for steep climbs. Has anyone seen a 26 or 28 tooth inner ring??

    I have a 32T up front and a 11-34 rear and I am spinning out every once in a while......and I spin out much worse riding the pavement in order to get to the trails.....I would think a 24T would cause you to spin out even more....

  15. #15
    I do what I want
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    1x9 is the way, glad someone else has seen the light.

    I live in Socal and ride all over, run a 1x9 on a 36lb full sus bike, climb everything. HAB is for wussies!!!

    Cranks: Truvativ Stylo 175mm (going to 180, I have ling legs)
    Ring: E13 Guidering 36T or 38T
    Chainguide: MRP Sys 3 (moving to a SRS+
    Cassette: 11/34

  16. #16
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by greasy_physique
    Chainstops are pretty light and very simple. I got one of these:
    http://www.bikeman.com/CH5800.html?u...ign=GoogleBase
    Buy 4 of these generic chain catchers for less than the price of Deda dog fang.
    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

  17. #17
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    1x8 on a hardtail and I'm running a 26 in front with an 11-25 rear with an old short cage Suntour RD 6000 and Suntour XC Pro thumbie shifter. Super snappy accelerating and inspiring clearance.

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