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  1. #1
    Zaf
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    1x10 Shimano XT Questions

    Hey guys.
    Quick background, my Superfly's 3x10 system has been lovely, but my front derailleur has been giving me troubles a few times now, the trigger shift keeps loosening off and leaving me without the ability to shift up out in the middle of a ride, I have fixed it a few times and had it looked at by a mechanic once, but I've finally spat the dummy on it after I was left strandard pushing my granny ring for the ride home due to it deciding to fail on me AGAIN.

    Anyway, I got home and ripped off the front derailleur and the shifter, this wasn't such a big deal because I'm looking to single speed the bike in a few months (if I end up buying another bike). Now I plan to use the same crankset, I've removed all the chain rings from it already, I can't get the middle chain ring on until I either get narrower chainring bolts or spacers.



    Here is where a few of my questions come in.

    I'm ordering in a Hope single DH 34 chain ring and some E-thirteen single ring bolts to secure it all up.



    23mm from the drive side dropout to halfway between the 5th and 6th cogs. 135mm dropouts, means that my front chain ring should sit 44.5mm from the center of my seat tube to get a nice centered position. (if anyone wants to double check my calculations that'd be great).

    Here's where I hit a wall.
    I can't for the life of me find chain ring bolt spacers in order to align my chain ring. Is it okay to use an appropriately sized washer in order to achieve this? Or are they not durable enough to be throwing down on your chain line?
    Where do you all buy chain ring bolt spacers if you do use them?

    Also, how crucial is it to have a chain guide device for these 1x10 set ups?

    Will edit in some pictures. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    Trek Fuel EX 9 (2012)
    Trek Superfly AL Elite (2013)

  2. #2
    loves me some carbon
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    You will need a chain guide with the Hope ring, even with a clutch derailleur. I have a Hope front ring with integral bash guard, and Hope chain guide. It doesn't work very well at all. I needed to make up my own guide from acetal to stop the chain occasionally falling off the inside and jamming, even with a Shadow plus.

    My recommendation would be to buy a Wolf Tooth components chain ring instead. Just google it or read the Wolftooth thread. Many are reporting great success even without a clutch derailleur. I'm going to buy one myself when the wife isn't looking.

    As for spacers, I think I used some that came with a bash guard or something. Washers should do the trick, or it would be a sub ten minute job for anyone with a lathe.

    Edit: I only used spacers because my bolts are designed for triple rings and are too long. I'm not sure you would need them , especially with a WTC ring.
    Posting on the basis that ignorance shared is ignorance doubled.

  3. #3
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    Don't worry about spacers. The chainline is never going to be optimal for all combinations. As The Understater said, order a WTC ring. Works very well.

  4. #4
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    You could go with the WTC ring or stick with what you've got and get an MRP 1X or the AMg. Then you can use whatever ring you want, regardless of having a clutched rear derailleur. Setup correctly, it shouldn't add any friction and runs nice and quiet. I'm running XT 3x cranks with the AMg for enduro racing and love it. Chain line is straight around the 6th cog with no spacers and zero rubbing issues or chaindrops. Maybe if you were going to spend a ton of time in the lower gears you could space it, but all-around use spacer free is fine.

  5. #5
    Zaf
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    This is where the Superfly shoots me in the foot somewhat, no ISCG tabs is obvious enough, but that wide set pressfit BB also excludes the use of any BB mounted Chain Guide device, limited to whatever can clamp to my chainstays or seat tube. I was looking at other options, but we're pretty strongly hitting in the $100 price mark for a chain guide device, and if the wolf tooth works that well for $60, it certainly ticks the price box nicely.

    Also, if I can ask to anyone replying, what have you found the main cause of a chain drop being? Is it more the rough terrain giving it a good kick, or cross chaining from the rear cassette not engaging properly?

    With my google searches before my post, centering your front cog to the center of the cassette seemed to fit a few peoples chain dropping issues (particularly with back pedalling), as I am thinking of making this bike single speed in the future, its a nice thing to do from a hygiene point of view.


    Thank you all so much so far, it's been really helpful.
    Trek Fuel EX 9 (2012)
    Trek Superfly AL Elite (2013)

  6. #6
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    The 1X comes in a couple of different seat tube mounts. Give MRP a call or email and they'll get you setup. I think the guide is around 50. I like the idea of the no drop chainrings but at the current rate of $60+ I can get a couple of different sized rings that will work with a guide. Factor in the cost of a clutch rear D for best results, too

    Cross chaining can cause a drop with back pedaling, but from my experience its the bouncing of the chain that causes the drop under general conditions.

    [QUOTE=Zaf;10486608]This is where the Superfly shoots me in the foot somewhat, no ISCG tabs is obvious enough, but that wide set pressfit BB also excludes the use of any BB mounted Chain Guide device, limited to whatever can clamp to my chainstays or seat tube. I was looking at other options, but we're pretty strongly hitting in the $100 price mark for a chain guide device, and if the wolf tooth works that well for $60, it certainly ticks the price box nicely.

    Also, if I can ask to anyone replying, what have you found the main cause of a chain drop being? Is it more the rough terrain giving it a good kick, or cross chaining from the rear cassette not engaging properly?

    With my google searches before my post, centering your front cog to the center of the cassette seemed to fit a few peoples chain dropping issues (particularly with back pedalling), as I am thinking of making this bike single speed in the future, its a nice thing to do from a hygiene point of view.


    Thank you all so much so far, it's been reall/QUOTE]

  7. #7
    dru
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    OP, definitely spend the time to center your chainring with the middle of the cassette. Otherwise you'll have noisy inefficient lower gears, especially the biggest one. Chainring spacers are your best bet.

    2 second google search is your friend for spacers.ww.sjscycles.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-chainring-spacer-each-prod17702/

    Drew
    occasional cyclist

  8. #8
    Zaf
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    Got some bolts from the LBS today, it makes the bike rideable, but the chain drops if I hop into my small ring. Everything above that works just fine for the mean time. I don't have any spacers so this is with it off center. Only took it for a quick spin to see how it feels, I think the 34t ring on its way will be better as far as gearing feels.

    Otherwise, there's something quite beautiful about the 1x10 setup, not just the clean bar setup but the feel of it. I always thought people were exaggerating when they said how it's a little bit like single speeding in the space it frees up in your mind not thinking about which gears you're in (especially since I run my chain a little shorter to avoid slap, so I had to be careful of cross chaining as I lacked the slack to be in my large chain ring and anything above my 4th gear).



    Anyway, I really appreciate the help guys, I'll keep you posted when the new stuff comes in.

    As an aside, the first ride on this new setup, I dicked jumping a curb and brought the rear wheel down on the square corner a little heavily...knocked it out of true. Only got myself to blame for that, but maintenance problems right...you fix one and create another.
    Trek Fuel EX 9 (2012)
    Trek Superfly AL Elite (2013)

  9. #9
    Zaf
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    I got some 1.2mm spacers in order to move the ring inboard slightly, as the chain was dropping when I shifted into my granny gear. I do have a slight concern that this offset might leave the ring open to play as there's a distance between the crank arm and the ring which could be a leverage area, but the bolt sleeve mates beautifully and there's really nice, snug, contact between all areas; so I can't see it truly being an issue.





    Trek Fuel EX 9 (2012)
    Trek Superfly AL Elite (2013)

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