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  1. #1
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    1st post Chain skipping/slipping.....and chain slap and chain derailing in jumps

    ok so i bought an ibex 550 in november06 so like 7 months ago i ride on the road mostly to work and school I probably have ridden 3.5mi a day on an adverage day over that time. I am 6' 1 185 and always ride hard on the trail and in town. I had a wreck like a month ago and bent up the rear deraiure & hanger, i go a new hanger and made sure that the rear derailure was really streight. My drivetrain is delore rear derailure, alivio in front, crank set TruVativ 5-D, Shimano HG50-8 casett.

    so like a week ago my bike was shifting perfectly when I thought that I needed a new chain after 750 mi so i ordered a new chain Sram PC-68 and replaced the shamero HG narrow? (that's what it says on the chain). I concider myself a good tuner, tuned my bike up and rode it.........well it was skipping when i really stepped on it when i was in the small and middle rings, but only when i really stepped on it. I tried to watch it and i think that the chain just slips one tooth on the rear cog (lould and short skip). I also noticed that when my left petal was perpendicular to the ground there is a very slight click(with no sound) that I can feel throught the petals like the chain is shifting on the chain ring?? not stiff link i checked

    The other thing is I have bad chain slap and then I take a drop 10"+ not all the time but like 25% of the time the chain has jumped on to a different gear.

    so i guess i could put the old chain back on but i'de rather not do that. I'm planning on upgrading my Drivetrain but I kinda wanted to put some wear on this one before I dropped a few hundred $ on a new drive train. Thanks!

    2 things my bike is a Ibex alpine 550,, and I have been having another problem my old chain and i think that i has done it once with my new chain. The chain will stick to the front big and middle rings occationally so that the chain forms a complete circle around the ring and attempts to rip the rear derailure off.
    Last edited by bowunter951; 07-01-2007 at 08:17 PM.

  2. #2
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    http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=35877404&albumId=0[/URL] that is a link to pics of casett exc.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowunter951
    ok so i bought an ibex 550 in november06 so like 7 months ago i ride on the road mostly to work and school I probably have ridden 3.5mi a day on an adverage day over that time. I am 6' 1 185 and always ride hard on the trail and in town. I had a wreck like a month ago and bent up the rear deraiure & hanger, i go a new hanger and made sure that the rear derailure was really streight. My drivetrain is delore rear derailure, alivio in front, crank set TruVativ 5-D, Shimano HG50-8 casett.

    so like a week ago my bike was shifting perfectly when I thought that I needed a new chain after 750 mi so i ordered a new chain Sram PC-68 and replaced the shamero HG narrow? (that's what it says on the chain). I concider myself a good tuner, tuned my bike up and rode it.........well it was skipping when i really stepped on it when i was in the small and middle rings, but only when i really stepped on it. I tried to watch it and i think that the chain just slips one tooth on the rear cog (lould and short skip). I also noticed that when my left petal was perpendicular to the ground there is a very slight click(with no sound) that I can feel throught the petals like the chain is shifting on the chain ring?? not stiff link i checked

    The other thing is I have bad chain slap and then I take a drop 10"+ not all the time but like 25% of the time the chain has jumped on to a different gear.

    so i guess i could put the old chain back on but i'de rather not do that. I'm planning on upgrading my Drivetrain but I kinda wanted to put some wear on this one before I dropped a few hundred $ on a new drive train. Thanks!

    2 things my bike is a Ibex alpine 550,, and I have been having another problem my old chain and i think that i has done it once with my new chain. The chain will stick to the front big and middle rings occationally so that the chain forms a complete circle around the ring and attempts to rip the rear derailure off.

    sounds like you need a new set of chain rings, especially middle and big (most people wear out the middle & small, but with all the road riding ...)
    the chain sticking is called chain suck and happens when the teeth are worn to fit a worn out chain, when you install a new chain it gets stuck in the teeth . Shimano derailliers will slap a bit depending on the setup, the higher end (xt- xtr) not so much, just get a chain stay guard. you might need a new deraillier also, from all the abuse it could have worn out

  4. #4
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    I'm not so sure I'd jump to the conclusion that the chainrings are worn out after only 750 miles. Unless you've bent teeth on them, I think the chains are the culprits:

    1) Chain suck was with old chain and happening since new - In this case it sounds like it was likely caused by a tight link. If you bend it slightly back and forth sideways at the tight link you can usually loosen it up. My guess is that it didn't need to be replaced. Again, I would not expect a chain to stretch to the point of needing to be replaced in only 750 miles... it should last many times that.

    2) With new chain it sounds like you may have a few too many links. Shift it into the smallest chainring (low gearset) and the smallest cog on the rear (high gear). Then check the take-up on the rear derailleur. Is it still keeping a fair amount of tension on the chain or is the chain drooping? Now shift to largest chainring/largest rear cog. Check the rear derailleur. If there is room for the pulleys/cage to move farther forward try to determine how many links can be removed. For more on determining correct chain length see:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26

    More on chain maintenance, cog tooth wear, etc:

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

    Regards,
    Jack A.
    IBEX Bicycles
    IBEX Bicycles Company CSR

    www.ibexbikes.com

  5. #5
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    First make sure your chain is the right length.

    After that if it doesn't work you need a new cassette.

    If you still have issues you probably have worn chain rings up front, hammer down in different chain rings to see which ones are worn.
    Be careful cause you can fall off the bike when it skips a tooth and jumps to next.

    Went through the exact same thing at 750 miles when I replaced my chain.
    If you ride hard like you say you do all the time and you're tall, expect to go through drivetrains quicker.

    The only way to avoid this is to buy another chain and swap them every month or two. The only way to clean a chain right is off the bike.
    Trek 4300 2006
    M580 LX cranks
    11-34T Cassette
    Kool-stop pads
    El Notre 7075 Seatpost
    Laser V saddle

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibexbikes
    I'm not so sure I'd jump to the conclusion that the chainrings are worn out after only 750 miles. Unless you've bent teeth on them, I think the chains are the culprits:

    1) Chain suck was with old chain and happening since new - In this case it sounds like it was likely caused by a tight link. If you bend it slightly back and forth sideways at the tight link you can usually loosen it up. My guess is that it didn't need to be replaced. Again, I would not expect a chain to stretch to the point of needing to be replaced in only 750 miles... it should last many times that.

    2) With new chain it sounds like you may have a few too many links. Shift it into the smallest chainring (low gearset) and the smallest cog on the rear (high gear). Then check the take-up on the rear derailleur. Is it still keeping a fair amount of tension on the chain or is the chain drooping? Now shift to largest chainring/largest rear cog. Check the rear derailleur. If there is room for the pulleys/cage to move farther forward try to determine how many links can be removed. For more on determining correct chain length see:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26

    More on chain maintenance, cog tooth wear, etc:

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

    Regards,
    Jack A.
    IBEX Bicycles
    he specifically said "Not a stiff link , I allready checked."

  7. #7
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    Thanks so much for the advice when I put te new chain on I lined the chains up then tried to remove an extra link on the new one[/QUOTE]First make sure your chain is the right length[/QUOTE] but when I did it was pretty tight on the big big combo (not l'de i'de use that much) and skipped like it does now so I added the link back and everything is good but it still skipped.

  8. #8
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    Do you all think that if I bought a New Shimano chain the same as the old one would that maybe do the trick?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowunter951
    Do you all think that if I bought a New Shimano chain the same as the old one would that maybe do the trick?
    wrap the chain around the big/big combo without going through the deraillier, add 2 links. thats the right length
    you said you tried to remove a link? could you have possible damaged the chain?

  10. #10
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    I was very careful, nothing is bent or anythink like that. no stiff link. I just checked what you said about 2 chain links it was 2.5 chain links but on small small the chain tention is fine I think.

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