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  1. #1
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    Question about Totem Solo AIr

    OK,

    I have an 09 demo 7 with the totem solo air. I noticed that when the suspension gets compressed, then I pull up quickly, like doing a hop or something, I hear a clunk/clung when the fork reaches the end of its travel. Is this normal or is something going on. The fork feels fine other than the kinda loud noise it makes. I noticed it just when bunnyhopping up the curb, I guess I can't even hear it when blasting down the trail.

    Should I just try and slow the rebound some more maybe? I'm thinking it's probably slamming into the bumpers or something. I just tried messing with rebound, and between the 20 clicks of adjustment I notice no difference? I have about 50 psi in the fork.

    This might be in the wrong forum, but thanks for the help,

    Tim
    Last edited by T174M; 07-27-2010 at 03:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    This is not normal.

  3. #3
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    After slowing down the rebound to the lowest setting, it doesn't make the noise. It feels like the rebound is still kind of quick though. I'm also still trying to understand the low/high compression settings as well as the floodgate. I picked this bike up and took it to the mountain last week and the bike would pitch forward pretty quickly off of jumps, which I thought would be too quick of rebound. Slowed the rear down and it got better, but I'm still messing with this fork.

    I guess what it comes down to is I need to not be impatient and wait till I head to the mountain this weekend and mess with suspension settings there. Riding around my yard isn't going to give me an accurate idea of what I like compared to on the trail.

    Is there any good links that explain the settings on this fork well? Maybe another setting is so far off that the rebound can't work properly or something.

  4. #4
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    The pitch forward off of drops is likely the high speed compression set too low. If the fork is diving in corners or under braking, set the low speed compression higher. Make sure you download a copy of the setup guide and follow it. It helps a ton. In short:
    - turn all compression settings to 0 or "soft"
    - set the sag using the air pressure (the sticker on the fork is not all that great for this, btw)
    - set the rebound as fast as it will go without topping out (which is the clunk you are hearing. Should only take a couple of clicks to get it to go away) Adjust as necessary to keep the front wheel planted on the trail.
    - set the high speed compression to allow for full travel, but not all the time. Find a drop you are comfortable with and hit it repeatedly, checking how much travel you are using. If your fork does not have a travel indicator, put a zip tie around one of the stanchions and see how far up it moves. If the drop is smaller than what you usually hit, then you should not be using all of your travel. If it is bigger, you should be using most of it.
    - set the low speed compression so that the fork is not diving all the time, but not so high that you deflect off of smaller objects (rocks/roots) in the trail.
    -HSC and LSC are not completely separate, so a click higher on the HSC will also have an effect on the LSC. Basically play with the dials until you get it right. When you do you will know it.
    -If the fork still feels not quite right, make sure you get it serviced.
    -Skimming the successpool of corporate America-

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Techfreak
    The pitch forward off of drops is likely the high speed compression set too low. If the fork is diving in corners or under braking, set the low speed compression higher. Make sure you download a copy of the setup guide and follow it. It helps a ton. In short:
    - turn all compression settings to 0 or "soft"
    - set the sag using the air pressure (the sticker on the fork is not all that great for this, btw)
    - set the rebound as fast as it will go without topping out (which is the clunk you are hearing. Should only take a couple of clicks to get it to go away) Adjust as necessary to keep the front wheel planted on the trail.
    - set the high speed compression to allow for full travel, but not all the time. Find a drop you are comfortable with and hit it repeatedly, checking how much travel you are using. If your fork does not have a travel indicator, put a zip tie around one of the stanchions and see how far up it moves. If the drop is smaller than what you usually hit, then you should not be using all of your travel. If it is bigger, you should be using most of it.
    - set the low speed compression so that the fork is not diving all the time, but not so high that you deflect off of smaller objects (rocks/roots) in the trail.
    -HSC and LSC are not completely separate, so a click higher on the HSC will also have an effect on the LSC. Basically play with the dials until you get it right. When you do you will know it.
    -If the fork still feels not quite right, make sure you get it serviced.
    Great post, info is awesome. I didn't mind it so much off drops as I did jumps as far as I remember. Roller jumps and kickers both had the same feeling. I will mess with it when I head to the mountain this weekend. I'll be going with a friend who is pretty familiar with suspension setup so that should help a ton.

    I come from an mx backround where I sent my suspension out to get setup, then didn't really touch it after that.

    Thanks,

    Tim

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    OK,

    I have an 09 demo 7 with the totem solo air. I noticed that when the suspension gets compressed, then I pull up quickly, like doing a hop or something, I hear a clunk/clung when the fork reaches the end of its travel. Is this normal or is something going on. The fork feels fine other than the kinda loud noise it makes. I noticed it just when bunnyhopping up the curb, I guess I can't even hear it when blasting down the trail.

    Should I just try and slow the rebound some more maybe? I'm thinking it's probably slamming into the bumpers or something. I just tried messing with rebound, and between the 20 clicks of adjustment I notice no difference? I have about 50 psi in the fork.

    This might be in the wrong forum, but thanks for the help,

    Tim
    Sounds like you've got a little pressure build up.

    RELEASE ALL AIR PRESSURE FIRST......Then try burping the fork by flipping the bike and loosening the foot bolts about half way. Take a rubber mallet and break the seal from the bottom by tapping on the bolts.

    Push down on the fork slightly (you should hear a hissing sound from equalizing of the air pressure) and tighten. You have just created a bit of a vacuum--in a sense a bit of an air buffer to assist the top out bumper. Add air to the solo chamber as usual.

    Hope this helps.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slick&Slam
    Sounds like you've got a little pressure build up.

    RELEASE ALL AIR PRESSURE FIRST......Then try burping the fork by flipping the bike and loosening the foot bolts about half way. Take a rubber mallet and break the seal from the bottom by tapping on the bolts.

    Push down on the fork slightly (you should hear a hissing sound from equalizing of the air pressure) and tighten. You have just created a bit of a vacuum--in a sense a bit of an air buffer to assist the top out bumper. Add air to the solo chamber as usual.

    Hope this helps.
    I'm loosening both foot bolts? I thought only one side has air in it? I'll give this shot.

    Thanks,

    Tim

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    I'm loosening both foot bolts? I thought only one side has air in it? I'll give this shot.

    Thanks,

    Tim
    Yes, and....

    Yes only one side is meant to have positive pressure. However the fork legs can sometimes take on this positive pressure and that is not good.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    OK,

    I have an 09 demo 7 with the totem solo air. I noticed that when the suspension gets compressed, then I pull up quickly, like doing a hop or something, I hear a clunk/clung when the fork reaches the end of its travel. Is this normal or is something going on. The fork feels fine other than the kinda loud noise it makes. I noticed it just when bunnyhopping up the curb, I guess I can't even hear it when blasting down the trail.

    Should I just try and slow the rebound some more maybe? I'm thinking it's probably slamming into the bumpers or something. I just tried messing with rebound, and between the 20 clicks of adjustment I notice no difference? I have about 50 psi in the fork.

    This might be in the wrong forum, but thanks for the help,

    Tim
    i haven't read all the posts here, but from my experience with my totem over the last two years here's what i'd suggest:
    1) change the oil in the lowers and the damper (be very precise about getting the amount of damper oil correct), and lube the air piston per rock shox manual;
    2) tune the rebound initially by backing all the way out ccw (assuming you have your 50 psi air pressure already), then turn the rebound cw 6 clicks;
    3) push down hard on the bars to compress the fork and let it snap back up on it's own.....
    4) did it clunk? no? go one click ccw, etc until it clunks, then back one click cw;
    5)did it clunk? yes? go one click cw until the clunk stops, and leave it there.

    that is a good starting point. but you will still need to test ride it and fine tune it to get it the way you like it. keep in mind that if you change air pressure, the rebound may need to be changed.

  10. #10
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    Ok,

    Set my sag, so the air pressure changed. Now even with the rebound all the way slow, I get the clunk noise when even doing just a bunnyhop. Is there something I'm missing here?

    Thanks for the replies, will take note of all of them when adjusting at the trail. I would like to make the clunk disappear before I get there though.

    EDIT: I think I need to pinpoint my rebound adjustment problem. The adjustment is doing nothing to the fork. I would think adjusted all the way slow the fork should almost crawl back, but it snaps back the same as all the way fast.
    Last edited by T174M; 07-27-2010 at 06:51 PM.

  11. #11
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    That sounds like a problem with the rebound system itself. Time to bring it in I think.
    -Skimming the successpool of corporate America-

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Techfreak
    That sounds like a problem with the rebound system itself. Time to bring it in I think.
    Or a small piece of something is holding it open. I've seen this happen.

    Before he sends it in--and if he's so 'mechanically' inclined to do so--I'd suggest that he open it up and look for debris stuck between the shim and one of the ports.

  13. #13
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    I have had similar issues. Sounds like you may need new seals/o rings on the damper side. (some oil may be getting above the seals causing the top out). It has been my experience that the Totem inner seals are good for about 6 months to a year of solid riding and then need replacing).

    It is a pretty easy service...yourself or a decent bike shop should be able to do it pretty cheap and quickly.

  14. #14
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    Are you able to get full travel? Check by removing all the air and compress the fork. It sounds like you may have oil leaking past the lower seal head and into your damper side lower. This would cause the rebound to stop working and cause the top out clunk that you're hearing. If this is the case all you need is a new o-ring for the rebound damper tube. If it's not the case you may need a new rebound damper.
    V-10c (custom)
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by string
    I have had similar issues. Sounds like you may need new seals/o rings on the damper side. (some oil may be getting above the seals causing the top out). It has been my experience that the Totem inner seals are good for about 6 months to a year of solid riding and then need replacing).

    It is a pretty easy service...yourself or a decent bike shop should be able to do it pretty cheap and quickly.
    X2 - damper oil has blown by the seal into the lowers. Service yourself - easy to do!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  16. #16
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    Bike shop ordered me up a new rebound damper for free. I already have the 5 and 15wt oil, so I'll swap that in there next week and see what happens. The joys of buying a bike from someone that works at the shop.

    I will be riding the bike this weekend as it is, so hopefully I don't mess anything up more. I rode it last weekend and other than the pogo stick suspension, it was bearable for the most part.

    Thanks for the help,

    Tim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086
    X2 - damper oil has blown by the seal into the lowers. Service yourself - easy to do!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    X3. Had that issue on a Lyrik and there were a couple of threads opened recently about it here and here.

    From your description if you're slowing the rebound to its max and it's not staying taking a couple of seconds to fully extend again, I'd say it's the damper oil that passed to the lowers.
    Another way of checking is to activate the floodgate, if the fork doesn't lock, there's definitely no oil in the damper.

    Also, if the oil is migrating, it will mostly likely be a seal (o-ring) issue on the damper tube (as stated before) and although it could be that the rebound rod is damaged, I'd say that isn't very likely.

    Sram has a couple of videos on youtube that explain the procedures for servicing their various products, on how to service the totem:
    1. removing the lower legs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yl0GdF0w5hI
    2. servicing the mission control damper: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMN8sM5OHRg

    You'll be surprised on how easy it is

  18. #18
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    Thanks,

    Those sram videos will definitely help out. I will probably pull the whole fork apart next week and clean, lube everything and put some fresh oil in, replace anything that looks scratched worn, etc. Hopefully the new rebound damper setup will fix my issue.

    -Tim

  19. #19
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    A little update..

    Sram sent me a new rebound damper and some 5 wt. oil. I put the new damper in an it felt good in the garage, but the rebound went out again on the trail. I'm thinking I need that o-ring and I should be good.

    How important is the oil in the lowers to be 15wt? I put some 5wt in there now and only thing I notice is the bottom out and return of the forks to full extension is still pretty rough. I'll put some 15wt in next time, just curious on the oil in the lowers really.

    Thanks,

    Tim

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    A little update..

    Sram sent me a new rebound damper and some 5 wt. oil. I put the new damper in an it felt good in the garage, but the rebound went out again on the trail. I'm thinking I need that o-ring and I should be good.

    How important is the oil in the lowers to be 15wt? I put some 5wt in there now and only thing I notice is the bottom out and return of the forks to full extension is still pretty rough. I'll put some 15wt in next time, just curious on the oil in the lowers really.

    Thanks,

    Tim
    It's probably the o-ring in the damper tube that is faulty, indeed, that's what keeps the oil of passing from the damper to the lowers.

    The oil in the lowers is for lubrication purposes only, it won't affect damping or rebound characteristcs.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by hafnz
    It's probably the o-ring in the damper tube that is faulty, indeed, that's what keeps the oil of passing from the damper to the lowers.

    The oil in the lowers is for lubrication purposes only, it won't affect damping or rebound characteristcs.

    Sounds good. Now if only Sram wasn't closed for a week I would be all set. Gonna have to race next weekend on a faulty fork for now.

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