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  1. #51
    FX4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iggz View Post
    Well good to know you like the pedals for what they are

    I still think you're a tripper though
    Demanding quality is tripping? No wonder we hardly manufacture anything anymore.

  2. #52
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    Their quality has gone up from what I understand - now using better bearings and the seals don't cause nearly as much drag as the ones in my version but still enough to keep the pedal in place. The beauty of the polished is that the scrapes look good on em! Iggz - QUIT baiting these guys, up to 50 posts already? For REAL? This thread needs to go away! LOL

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  3. #53
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    hey FX4

    I know what you mean. I have asked P1R this question before. the machine marks are expected because u wanted it raw. there is some yellowing patches which is the chemical wash they used and with a little rubbing with a piece of scotch brite, u can actually remove them.

    the chemical wash on my pedals for rubbed off after a few rides with mud, mini streams etc.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by FX4 View Post
    Demanding quality is tripping? No wonder we hardly manufacture anything anymore.
    Quality is not in question here, we are talking about minor aesthetic details. Not even in the same ballpark.

  5. #55
    FX4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1soulrider View Post
    Quality is not in question here, we are talking about minor aesthetic details. Not even in the same ballpark.
    Since when was the "finish" part removed from "fit and finish" in every manufacturing quality standard I have ever read? This thread is a hoot...LOL.

    Well I guess P1R has determined accurately that a majority of customers don't care about finish. I'm in the camp that does care.

    IMO, as a small business owner and formerly a manufacturing engineer the current finish was the result of a cost cutting measure. It could be driven by the cost of production has risen or it could be they were looking for better margin on the product. Any way you look at it finish quality has suffered as a result. The functionality of the pedal is totally awesome.

    Now I'm bowing out of my thread. Iggz, you may have the last word if you so choose.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumblemumble View Post
    If anyone hasn't tried it I do recommend hitting up the hardware store for longer pins on the 4 inner spots, 16 new screws total. Cost: $2 or so?
    Why? Almost too grippy with 5.10 shoes.
    The guy yo' momma "act" like she don't know!

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim F. View Post
    Why? Almost too grippy with 5.10 shoes.
    I'd have to agree - fact I think I like my Decoys better because I can change up feet position easier!

    Have FUN!

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Their quality has gone up from what I understand - now using better bearings and the seals don't cause nearly as much drag as the ones in my version but still enough to keep the pedal in place. The beauty of the polished is that the scrapes look good on em! Iggz - QUIT baiting these guys, up to 50 posts already? For REAL? This thread needs to go away! LOL

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    I don't think they've changed, I had an old edition (as iggz pictured) and now the latest edition. Both feel the same (same built in drag) and the bearings appear to be the same. Great pedals nonetheless and Point One are good guys to deal with.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  9. #59
    Transition Blindside v5
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    Quote Originally Posted by FX4 View Post
    Phew, the pedal just worked itself loose. I may have to switch these to blue loctite.
    I'm in a market for a pair of these (in raw/silver) now, and a couple of questions, please.

    With the "current/latest" production batch (whatever that means; say you get it from them directly), (a) do I need to blue-loctite the end nut right out of the box (so that platform doesn't fall off the spindle), and (b) what length pins (6mm or 8mm or both?) do they come with nowadays?

    I emailed them a couple of days ago, but no reply yet. (No TEL# on their website?) I came across some old threads (from '10 or '11) that they respond quickly, so I'm just wondering about nowadays.
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  10. #60
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    They were always pretty slow to respond to email when I contacted them so I wouldn't expect anything for a couple days at least. I didn't used anything but grease when I installed, and no issues yet. I'm not sure about the pin length.
    2011 Giant Glory 01
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  11. #61
    FX4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu View Post
    I'm in a market for a pair of these (in raw/silver) now, and a couple of questions, please.

    With the "current/latest" production batch (whatever that means; say you get it from them directly), (a) do I need to blue-loctite the end nut right out of the box (so that platform doesn't fall off the spindle), and (b) what length pins (6mm or 8mm or both?) do they come with nowadays?

    I emailed them a couple of days ago, but no reply yet. (No TEL# on their website?) I came across some old threads (from '10 or '11) that they respond quickly, so I'm just wondering about nowadays.
    They do answer, they are just slow. I'm not the hardest rider in the world so I may not be the best judge of what is needed for a guy that rails downhill but I think if you follow their instructions and torque them to spec they should be fine. I have about 200 miles on them or so and all is fine. I did have one pedal come loose after the first long ride but I torqued them again and they have stayed put.

  12. #62
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    New question here. hex-bolt pin size & pitch ?

    I never heard back from them about my inquiry.

    Anyway, I just picked up an used pair of Podium pedals (raw color). On that note, I have a question about the pedal pins. Does anyone know the hex-bolt pin size & pitch? The reason I ask is that all the hex-bolt pins that came on this used pair needed a 7/64" hex wrench, though I was expecting a 2mm or 3mm hex wrench. I just want to make sure those pins are the "original" ones.

    Either way, I'll make a quick trip to local ACE Hardware for some slightly-longer hex-bolt pins.
    Last edited by PiroChu; 08-12-2012 at 11:46 AM.
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  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu View Post
    I never heard back from them about my inquiry.

    Anyway, I just picked up an used pair of Podium pedals (raw color). On that note, I have a question about the pedal pins. Does anyone know the hex-bolt pin size & pitch? The reason I ask is the hex-bolt pins that came on mine (used pair) needed a 7/64" hex wrench, though I was expecting a 2mm or 3mm hex wrench. I just want to make sure those pins are the "original" ones.

    Either way, I'll make a quick trip to local ACE Hardware for some slightly-longer hex-bolt pins.
    Mine are metric, don't recall the exact size but I'd guess a 2mm.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

  14. #64
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    The pins are of an odd size.

    My metric hex wrench would not fit. Went out to get a cheap set of imperial hex keys still none of the sizes in the set fit.

    So my advice would be, DO NOT lose the hex wrench that came with your pedals!!

  15. #65
    Transition Blindside v5
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    non-Metric hex-bolt pins

    Quote Originally Posted by mgv101 View Post
    The pins are of an odd size.

    My metric hex wrench would not fit. Went out to get a cheap set of imperial hex keys still none of the sizes in the set fit.

    So my advice would be, DO NOT lose the hex wrench that came with your pedals!!
    That would explain why none of the Metric hex bolts at the hardware store worked, while the ones that fit were all from the Standard/non-Metric section.

    Originally I was thinking that it'd have to be something Metric, like M3 x 0.50mm/pitch x length (6mm or 8mm); hence my asking.

    Thanks for the confirmation that those factory hex-bolt pins are of odd (non-Metric) size.
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  16. #66
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    I just checked, and it looks like it's a size 2.75 haha. It's just smaller than a 3 and bigger than a 2.5.
    2011 Giant Glory 01
    2013 Pivot Firebird
    2004 Turner Rail - Stoled

  17. #67
    FX4
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    Well after a full season of riding I'm happy to report the pedals are performing very well even after several hard crashes and a long season of riding. I'm still not thrilled with the finish but every other aspect of this pedal is so right that I have really began to overlook my finish concerns. They seem to be very resistant to pedal strikes. I destroyed a set of Wellgos on my third ride with them and have hit these a lot harder than I ever hit the Wellgos. I'm sure Wellgo makes better pedals than the ones I destroyed, but I would expect them to survive more than one moderately hard strike. The Point Ones keep on going. The grip is like glue. You plant your foot and it is stuck.

  18. #68
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    My Point one vs Twenty6 Predator:




    So far, the Predator fares better.

  19. #69
    FX4
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    Interesting. I steered clear of the predator because of so many guys reporting they chewed their legs up riding them.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu View Post
    That would explain why none of the Metric hex bolts at the hardware store worked, while the ones that fit were all from the Standard/non-Metric section.

    Originally I was thinking that it'd have to be something Metric, like M3 x 0.50mm/pitch x length (6mm or 8mm); hence my asking.

    Thanks for the confirmation that those factory hex-bolt pins are of odd (non-Metric) size.
    they are not metric.... 7/64 allen wrench fits good, i just replaced mine, they are standard..

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by V.P. View Post
    My Point one vs Twenty6 Predator:




    So far, the Predator fares better.
    Looking at the pedal scrapes on both pedals, the point 1 it looks like it saw some rock strikes etc. The Predator pedal doesn't look like it was subjected to the same amount of abuse. In my experience black anodizing does not hold up to rock strikes with out scratches.

  22. #72
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    My black Point1's seem to shrug off rock strikes really easily. I got one this past weekend, and thought it had made a mark. However, I wiped it with my finger, and it turned out it was mostly rock/metal dust.

    They seem to only scratch on the edges, like they are getting filed.

    2011 Giant Glory 01
    2013 Pivot Firebird
    2004 Turner Rail - Stoled

  23. #73
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    I tend to smash up my pedals bad and have disintegrated a couple of magnesium wellgo pedals along the way.

    I still get pedal strikes almost every ride and here is how my point one looked after about 6 months of use.

    Other than the surface scratches and having to replace the damaged pins every couple of months there are really no issue with the pedals at all. With regards to the pins, although they tend to grind away faster, I would recommend the aluminum pins over the steel ones. As the pins get damaged, the steel ones tend to bend and get out of shape making removal of the pins impossible without popping out my dremel to cut away the bent section. Forcibly unscrewing the bent pin out will damage the threads in the pedal as steel is harder than aluminum. Although the aluminium pins don't last as long as the steels ones, they simply get grinded away and become shorter. They don't get out of shape and can be easily unscrewed when needed to be replaced.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Point One Racing Podium pedals-imag0243s.jpg  


  24. #74
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    Guys it time for me to replace my point one pedals studs, pls advise can the below screws use as the replacement studs?
    Titanium Hex Socket Screws M3x8mm (10)

  25. #75
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    As long as they are the same diameter and thread pitch, should be good to go. As far as using titanium in an aluminum body, make sure to apply some anti-seize or you will never get them out

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