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Platform Pedal Shootout, the best flat is...

1M views 2K replies 506 participants last post by  shwinn8 
#1 · (Edited)
Platform Pedal Shootout!

2018 Update for best pedal:


  • high range: Gamut Podium for class, weight, height, uniqueness, aesthetics, performance, size, desirability with roots in the SF Bay Area Point One Racing small CNC operation, 3rd generation design lineage
  • low range: Lixada Y2259B for value, comparable to any VP/HT/Wellgo ultra-thin-light-wide pedal, and an unbeatable value $24-29 shipped to your door from multiple online sources



As a single speed rider, I prefer the simplicity and get on and ride how you come approach. The general rule when it comes to pedals is, if you cant ride with flip flops or jack purcells, your bike is a failure.

Figured I could pop this in any category like singlespeed or 29er but downhill freeride riders are the most renown for rocking platform pedals in even the most intense, dangerous gravity induced situations successfully.

While weight is often shaved and marketed in connection points on the bike (saddle, handlebar, pedals), these are the most important to me to feel solid to the rider. Saving weight elsewhere is a better move 'cause the solid feel equals confidence.

I reviewed four foundational pedals. While all superb pedals, I found the winner of these four - the Sunline V-One platform pedal.

:eekster:

Atomlab Trailking: an innovative design that has been copied by everyone, the 17mm thin crowd got its inspiration from this pedal. Sweet looks, my favorite in the looks department, CNC machined minimal with a fantastic shape and really looks tits mounted to a single speed and is thinnest body of the lot. Due to DU bushings (which are the least desirable), it develops play quite easily, so have a stash of DU bushings for replacements and the problem is solved. Atomlab is good about providing these replacements and they're fast, simple to replace with an allen key. The performance is least of the lot due to pin placement, flat body, and DU bushings - my foot has slipped jumping off street curbs! Studs did rip a number of holes and lines into my shins causing permanent scarring and for the lackluster amount of grip they provide, wasn't worth it. The newer Pimp and Pimplite mag pedals have resolved the DU bushing issue with sealed bearings while staying with a similar shape. 540g pair, $100

Easton Flatboy: a design that is over ten years old! Classic, beefy, concave and grippy. Comes in only ano black, matches your Easton cockpit. A bit boring as the design hasn't changed for decade - meaning the pedal works well! 572g pair, $75

Syncros Mental Stainless Steel: the rawest of the bunch, made of stainless steel versus aluminum like the others. Also like the fact that you dont see rebrands of this pedal 'cause they're so ugly, no one is going to copy them. Random non-bike people will ask you about the pedals. A whopping weight penalty, almost double that of the other pedals, but it's easily justified as these just are the last to break from any ravishing hit or scrape. I treat them badly and they look identical to new. I really like the way these spin and the heaviness works by providing a solid connection to the bike. Lifetime warranty on the bodies to prove it! 800g pair, $80

Sunline V-One: Solved the problems of the Atomlab Trailkings by using loaded sealed bearings, concave body, and added the machined pyramids from the Brooklyn Machine Works Veggie Burgers and notorious Shin Burger pedals. When the stud screws are installed on top of the pyramids, your foot is not slipping, at all. Best grip of the lot. Anodized gunmetal blue titanium to match the Sunline V-One cockpit. Also very close to the Hope Tech X2 Pro Mini carbon fiber edition anodization. 580g pair, $120

MTBR reviews 5 stars for the V-One's: https://content.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/pedal/sunline/v-one/PRD_416992_135crx.aspx

:eek:

This shootout comparison test is missing some serious talent, help me fill that in, MTBR members!



Shimano DX, Straitline, Burgtec Penthouse, Odyssey Trailmix, DMR V12, NYC Freeride Glory Hole...



Brooklyn Machine Works (CNC) Veggie Burger: Brooklyn Machine Works Veggie Burgers Pedal user reviews : 5 out of 5 - 26 reviews - mtbr.com

Canfield Brothers Crampon: Canfield Crampons 6 month review = they are solid- Mtbr.com

Point One Racing Podium: Point One Racing Podium Pedals short review- Mtbr.com



Answer Rove FR, Nukeproof Proton, Deity Decoy and the lot of re-branded HT Components (Taiwan) pedals. Hey, if you can get the HT originals for fifty bones with titanium spindles at under 300g, who's to say?... :rolleyes:



:madmax:
 
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#1,181 ·
Likewise, I have a set of HT Nano AN01 pedals (1 DU bush) on my other bike and they've been spinning just as good when they were new. And that was 2 years ago. Zero maintenance. And I mean zero, I've never taken them apart for anything. Ton of abuse too. And they cost 1/4 of how much I've spent on the Podiums if you want to include new bearings and the removal tool.
 
#1,189 ·
sounds like heat built up just shattered the DU, there are 2 most likely reasons for heat to build up, lack of lubrication or something(dirt, mud) trapped in between the DU and spindle, either ways you will see a lot of wear or even black marks on the spindle.

both DU setup and sealed bearing pedals all have there dis-adv and advs .

DU pedals(Canfield crampon , vp-001, VP vice ) is much easier and simpler to maintain , but it needs constant take apart, clean and regrease if lots of dirt and mud gets in the spindle. it needs it even without dirt and mud , otherwise you can feel play in the spindle depending on how much pedaling time you got. once the DU or spindle is worn out , you might as well just buy another set of pedals if its not those $150 dollar ones.

sealed bearing pedals will last longer in muddy/dusty riding without any maintenance , it will last almost forever if you rarely get dust in spindle. but when you change the bearings, you need small size bearing puller , it would take a lot more time to change the bearings , also the pedal body can be damaged if the bearings doesnt go in or come out straight.

i hope i didnt miss anything and someone will find this helpful
 
#1,190 ·
sounds like heat built up just shattered the DU, there are 2 most likely reasons for heat to build up, lack of lubrication or something(dirt, mud) trapped in between the DU and spindle, either ways you will see a lot of wear or even black marks on the spindle.

both DU setup and sealed bearing pedals all have there dis-adv and advs .

DU pedals(Canfield crampon , vp-001, VP vice ) is much easier and simpler to maintain , but it needs constant take apart, clean and regrease if lots of dirt and mud gets in the spindle. it needs it even without dirt and mud , otherwise you can feel play in the spindle depending on how much pedaling time you got. once the DU or spindle is worn out , you might as well just buy another set of pedals if its not those $150 dollar ones.

sealed bearing pedals will last longer in muddy/dusty riding without any maintenance , it will last almost forever if you rarely get dust in spindle. but when you change the bearings, you need small size bearing puller , it would take a lot more time to change the bearings , also the pedal body can be damaged if the bearings doesnt go in or come out straight.

i hope i didnt miss anything and someone will find this helpful
Anyone know which type the DMR Vaults are... and any comments on experience with them with regard to maintenance or bushings/bearings issues?
 
#1,191 ·
nope, no dust, water or mud. i packed em before maiden voyage as they were sent with lil grease in them. must have been a QC issue but i was never dealt w/ in a professional manner so i wrote the company off and moved on. there were many pedals stock piled on a suppliers counter w/ same issues. maybe i will try DU bush pedals again due to everyone migrating that way, but im very happy with my f20's with a several hundo miles and no maintenance. ride em in the worst of the worst also.
 
#1,197 ·
7 years on Wellgo MG1s, never maintained. 5-6 years on ATAC ROCs, never maintained. Both sets are still spin great. Pretty close to zero in my book, unless you count putting grease on the threads as maintenance!
 
#1,199 ·
I have a few friends on the Canfield Crampons (both the ultimates and the originals). They use du bushings, and over time they do develop a tiny bit of play. When I say tiny I mean maybe a hundredth of an inch or so. Just enough to feel it with a hand, but not feel or hear anything while pedaling. The interesting part is that they tend to stay at that point for a very long time without maintenance. They just keep going and going. My bering pedals rolled very smoothly, but when they started to wear down, they were trashed very quickly. I have a new pair of ultimates, so I can't give a long term report yet, but I will update when I feel they have been properly broken in.
 
#1,200 ·
I've been riding my Alu pinned Straitline AMPs in summer shoes (Shimano AM40) for a while now. Was worried about grip, shouldn't have. Grip is there. Less than with stock pins but sufficient. Beaten soles and calves are thankful for not so predatory pins. )
 
#1,201 ·
2 years on my Straitline de Facto pedals and they've been serviced twice and rebuilt DU bushings once. Put clips on my bike recently, but there are about 2,500 miles on them in conditions that are mostly dry and dusty with some creek crossings, so they always got a mix. They've stayed true to me.
 
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#1,207 ·
I've seen several posts in the last few weeks about how scary looking the pins are on flats in general, and Crampon Ultimates specifically. Not in this thread, apparently (I just looked and didn't see the posts I was thinking of), but since this is the mothership, I'll post here.

I slipped a pedal on a landing last night, and whacked my shin pretty hard. This was the result:

Toe Skin Human leg Barefoot Joint


It hurt when I got home, and it was swelling, but that's it. If I had been on my other bike with my twenty6 pedals, my shin would look like I kicked a badger. Mine are from the first batch of Ultimates, and I have the pointed pins installed point up, but the points are probably a lot rounder than the edge of a set screw. They aren't as grippy as my Prerunners or Predators; that's the trade off.
 
#1,214 ·
I have Azonic Flat Irons on my bike. I have only ridden them a handful of times, and the bearings are already loose and click with every stroke (talk about annoying). Does anyone else have this problem? I wrote to Azonic, because at almost $150 for the set, it seems ridiculous that I should be having problems already. The pedals are amazingly thin and really comfortable for multi-hour rides. I still haven't heard back from the manufacturer...
 
#1,215 ·
One day, the entire World will realize that the 9/16" threaded interface between pedals and cranks should be relegated to the dust bins of history, just like freewheels and cantilever brakes; and my spindleless bearing design that I invented for the FlyPaper Pedal will become the new, super-durable standard!

Then the spindly 9/16" threaded crap will only be found on MallWart bikes...
 
#1,222 ·
pedals bro

the Azonic Flat Iron pedals are excellent, only 10mm thick and offer a few different pin configurations. maximum durability. The feel is connected to your bike with precision control. Id vote for these as the best thus far. They are 345g without mud. the thin profile offers more ground/rock clearance on lower dh bikes.
 
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