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  1. #1
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    Paint stripping/works finish

    I know it's not rocket science, but here's a quick rundown on my project. I had a Socom for a bit, and honestly my favorite thing about it was the works finish. When I decided to go back to my M1, I wanted to spruce it up a bit with a new finish and new parts.

    I just followed some tips on how to strip paint and voila... home made works finish.
    Here's the crap you get at your local auto parts place for $5:



    Here's the crazy stuff that happens to your paint when you spray it on:





    And there's the final product:



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  2. #2
    Meh.
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    It'll oxidize and dull since it's bare aluminum now. You can clearcoat it if that's the finish you want.

    A little bit of Mother's Mag Polish and elbow grease can make that sucker shine like chrome.

  3. #3
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    You clear coated it didnt you?

    Aluminum doesnt rust, but it does oxidize. If you leave it 100% raw like that, you'll have to touch up the bike with aluminum polish or a scotch bright pad every few days cuz it will get really hazy and uneven looking. Just a warning.

    EDIT: ^ ^ beat me to it!

  4. #4
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    That second pic just creeps me out, it looks like a disease or something

  5. #5
    Meh.
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    It'll dull to a point, and then stop. Aluminum oxide will only form on the surface, and will actually protect the material beneath it, unlike steel.

    Gotta love those chemical strippers. Just watch that paint bubble up.

  6. #6
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    I didn't do anything other than a quick scotchbrite. While at the Intense factory last year, I saw how they just take the works bikes out of heat treat, put stickers on them, and put them in the box.... no coating whatsoever. I'd actually prefer if it gets a bit darker over time. Not into that shiny look these days.

    Yeah, that paint stripper is some nasty stuff. Oh, and FYI... don't spray it on your arm!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rover Nick
    That second pic just creeps me out, it looks like a disease or something
    indeed hahaha
    Road riders put their bikes on top of shiny $50,000 cars. But the average full-suspension rider puts his bike on top of a beat-up barely-hanging-together car that costs a fraction of what their bike costs. For them their bike is their life.

  8. #8
    MW
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    Yup, it'll oxidize ... but won't hurt the frame one bit, I believe. Lot of folks don't care for the alOxi look, but I think it's cool: understated to the extreme.

    Cool project.

    --MW

  9. #9
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    Thats it, no other steps? Thats pretty awesome. Would it work the same on a cr-mo frame? Ive gotta dig that guinea pig bike out of my closet and give it a shot.
    Dont pinkbike my mtbr

  10. #10
    Meh.
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    With cromoly, you most defintiely need to take the proper precautions to inhibit oxidation. Cromoly rusts, rust will eat through it.

  11. #11
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    cover it with honey and loose a pack of angry badgers on it....

  12. #12
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    Dug up this thread with a search --- so if i strip my AL frame could i build it back up/ride it without a clearcoat? i just imagine it would be a pain in the arse to apply a nice, even clear coat on my own. would the oxidization really adversely affect the appearance of the frame? is it in fact true that the intense works finish is NOT clear coated? Thanks!

  13. #13
    Meh.
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    Yes, aluminum does not need to be clearcoated. However, if there is no CC then it will oxidize on the surface. Oxidation will change the color. It's easy enough to touch it up with some Mother's Mag Polish though. This has all been covered in the thread.

  14. #14
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    it won't affect the composition/integrity of the metal though (as with steel) right? you're fast dude, thanks!

  15. #15
    Meh.
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    The oxidation will not, it's just like anodizing. If anything, it's protecting the material beneath.

    The stripping process... I don't know. I've stripped a couple of frames/parts and have not had any issues. I guess the chemical reaction would give off heat, but I wouldn't think it's nearly enough to change the temper/heat treating of the material. It will still void your warranty though.

  16. #16
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    is that really the case with the Intense works finish; no clear coat?

  17. #17
    Meh.
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    I don't think they CC... but I can't confirm it.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goliath_2
    so if i strip my AL frame could i build it back up/ride it without a clearcoat?!
    Yes.

    Strip the paint. Hose it off. Build it up. Keep it simple.

    I just went outside to take some updated pics. Still looks as good as it did when I started this thread about a year ago. And it's not been babied... flogged through 4 days of muck at Whistler, the rocks of Bootleg, heat of AZ, etc...

    I've been really happy with the results. The finish is very durable; No more worry about scratches.




  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrEVS
    While at the Intense factory last year, I saw how they just take the works bikes out of heat treat, put stickers on them, and put them in the box.... no coating whatsoever.
    Not sure how else to say it....

  20. #20
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    nice! that looks friggen sweet! i'll go get a can of that stuff - auto parts store i assume.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrEVS
    Not sure how else to say it....
    shoot, i must have missed that. thanks

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goliath_2
    is that really the case with the Intense works finish; no clear coat?
    That is correct

  23. #23
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    If you polish it up do you need to clear coat it?

    I see lots of polished frames.. Santa Cruz especially.. they have no clear coat.. how are they kept shiney?

  24. #24
    Rb
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    That looks great!!

    I, too, have a raw bike. It's a great way to bring an older bike up to a 'new-school' look -- especially since you sourced the decals. My downtube was all scratched from shuttling/riding and looked hideous so I decided to strip it. Now I don't have to worry about paint AND it looks better!

    Here at the shop, the 'Works' finish is reallllly popular on our Intense sales.

  25. #25
    moaaar shimz
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    By clear coating them

  26. #26
    Mi vida es bueno
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    That looks tiiiiight! I'm thinkin I might do that to my 7point eventually, I think it would look pretty sweet polished too.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rb
    Here at the shop, the 'Works' finish is reallllly popular on our Intense sales.
    Which is kinda funny cause it saves Intense $$$ by not having to paint but costs us (the consumer) the same price as a painted frame.

  28. #28
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    hmm - interesting - my M1 is getting a bit bashed up so I thought about a paint job but that looks cool.......I see my next project coming on.....

    now - would this work with Marzocchi forks - I have a feeling their lowers couldn't take it - is that right?

  29. #29
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    Is clear coating a difficult or hard process to do?

    I am looking at trying this on an steel bike of mine. Does the steel rust regardless of the conditions its put through or is it only when it comes in contact with mud, water ect?

  30. #30
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    Quick Q:

    does it work on pre painted Bikes; example Specialized P1?

    Does it work with Powder coated bikes?

    just curious!

  31. #31
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    Looks like that stripper works really well was it a lot of work to get in all the little nook and crannies

  32. #32
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    paint stripping

    hello,

    i just started stripping my iron horse sunday.
    i just like the look.

    i ame just thinking abouth stripping my fork to.

    how will this affect my fox 40?

    are those outher legs alu r sommething else?

    what do u guys think?


    grtz, wouter

  33. #33
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    Look into the fork construction, I believe Magnesium alloys get used a lot for lowers, you dont want bare magnesium on your bike, its very reactive
    DON'T TELL ME I'M STILL ON THAT FECKIN' ISLAND! ....

  34. #34
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    I have stripped frames/parts a few times and it works great.
    The first time I clearcoated the frame and after a year it chipped,yellowed and looked horrible.

    The last one I did was my Bullit last april. I left the frame raw(no clear) and used scotch brite every few months. It looked good all season.

    I'm sure if I used a better clear or had a professional clearcoat the previous frame I would have had better results but scotchbrite was way cheaper .

    This pic was taken after 5 months of use.

  35. #35
    Meh.
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    Clearcoating is just like painting, if you know how, it's not hard to do. If you don't.... you'll get under/overspray, runs, bubbles, etc.

    Steel needs to be clearcoated. There's moisture (water) in the air. It will corrode.

    Yes... pre-painted and powdercoated bikes can still be stripped... That Intense was painted before... right? Let's think about that. Powdercoating may be harder or take longer to strip. The easy alternative is to take it to a powdercoater and have them dip it to remove all the paint.

    Most lowers are magnesium. As mentioned, magnesium is very reactive. You could strip it, but you'd have to clearcoat it.

  36. #36
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    If your a weight weenie, stripping the paint can save up to almost 500grams (1lbs).

    polishing a full frame is a bugger though, with getting into all the nooks and crannies :P

  37. #37
    moaaar shimz
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanH
    If your a weight weenie, stripping the paint can save up to almost 500grams (1lbs).

    polishing a full frame is a bugger though, with getting into all the nooks and crannies :P
    500 grams? NO WAY JOSE

  38. #38
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    up to it varies a lot.

    count in that to get a good paint finish, you need to give it a base coat too.

    Paint and base coating, weighs more then you think.

    The easy way though, would be for someone to weigh their frame before and after.

  39. #39
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    I stripped my frame last winter, and rode the bike for a year in that condition. After washing, I'd touch up a few spots with fine steel wool, that would take just two minutes. No problems with layers of oxidation:



    ****

  40. #40
    Mi vida es bueno
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    Dang that looks nice! Did you polish it or is that just what it looks like stripped?

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    With cromoly, you most defintiely need to take the proper precautions to inhibit oxidation. Cromoly rusts, rust will eat through it.
    I seriously doubt that there are much more then a handful of people on this board that keep their bikes long enough for the frame to rust through.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by splatman
    Dang that looks nice! Did you polish it or is that just what it looks like stripped?
    It's been handworked; after stripping with aircraft stripper, I used a steel brush, which you want to go easy with, don't get carried away with it, because you can do more harm than good. Then I used steel wool, starting with fine grade, finishing with triple fine grade.
    This pic is from last year, right now the frame is in the paint shop. Originally, when I stripped it, it was to save a few bucks by stripping it myself before bringing it to a powdercoat shop. The more I worked the frame with the steel brush, the more I liked the way it was looking, so I decided to polish it out and ride it that way for a while. Now I want to try a color again.
    When I tire of the color, I can allways strip and polish it again.
    ****

  43. #43
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    Sweet, I'm liking the idea of stripping more and more! Maybe next winter that could be my project...

  44. #44
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    Renegade awesome work that looks great. Did you polish the cranks as well? Where did you get that fab bash guard from?

  45. #45
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    Karve, you might guess that looking at my pics that I don't care mush for stickers or decals. I wanted to complete that look by getting rid of the "Deore XT" that is usually seen on the outside of the Hollowtech 2 cranks. That was a little trickier, the laser marked letters are underneath a clear coat anodize; removing that anodize with mechanical means wasn't that easy. If there was to be a "next time", I would try easy off oven cleaner on the clear ano.
    The bash guard is home made, as are the rockers and chainguide; I'm a machinist by trade.
    ****

  46. #46
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    Dang that M1 looks awesome, makes me wish I never parted with mine years ago.
    I might have to pick another one up for this summer. I know of a mint 03 med. going for $400

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade
    The bash guard is home made, as are the rockers and chainguide; I'm a machinist by trade.
    Niiiice good to see people making bits especially when they come out so sweet.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by boogenman
    Dang that M1 looks awesome, makes me wish I never parted with mine years ago.
    I might have to pick another one up for this summer. I know of a mint 03 med. going for $400
    Thanks - its turned out really well. I tried parting with mine too (downgraded to Socom), but ended up coming back to her. Pure DH fun has no better ally than a buttery 4 bar. Here's the pic that came 0.5 seconds after my avatar pic:



    Used M1's are such a great value and the design is so much fun on the trail; go for it!

  49. #49
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    I used a polishing kit that dremel makes and my bike came our awesome. I also did some spot painting here and there. I have repolished it once but just cause I was bored with mothers. It will amaze you as to how easy it is.
    It is a 2003 GT iDrive I bought the frame off ebay and built it up from there.
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  50. #50
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    sweet, looks like i ressurected a popular thread. i like that works finish. i don't think they touch it with steel wool/scotch brite or anything. correct me if i'm wrong.

  51. #51
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    Here's a picture to clear up all the oxidation worry. Look in the inside corner of the "R" on my frame. The sticker is clear there and shows the original raw aluminum as the stickers were applied right after I stripped the frame and have protected the aluminum from oxidation. Now right next to it is obviously a slightly darker shade of aluminum. This is the oxidized, unprotected alloy. Not a huge difference.
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  52. #52
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    I am thinking about doing this, but I don't feel like completely disassembling my entire bike. I also don't have the tools to pull the bearings out of my rear suspension. Does this damage components and metal besides the paint on it?

    I would basically pull my fork out, get all cables out of the way, and strip away. Problems galore?
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey
    I am thinking about doing this, but I don't feel like completely disassembling my entire bike. I also don't have the tools to pull the bearings out of my rear suspension. Does this damage components and metal besides the paint on it?

    I would basically pull my fork out, get all cables out of the way, and strip away. Problems galore?
    dude... i would recommend you avoid doing that.

  54. #54
    Takw/agranofsalt
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    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey
    I am thinking about doing this, but I don't feel like completely disassembling my entire bike. I also don't have the tools to pull the bearings out of my rear suspension. Does this damage components and metal besides the paint on it?

    I would basically pull my fork out, get all cables out of the way, and strip away. Problems galore?
    Yah know what? Just go ahead and rattle-can it.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmilMick
    You clear coated it didnt you?

    Aluminum doesnt rust, but it does oxidize. If you leave it 100% raw like that, you'll have to touch up the bike with aluminum polish or a scotch bright pad every few days cuz it will get really hazy and uneven looking. Just a warning.

    EDIT: ^ ^ beat me to it!
    rust is oxidation...basic chemistry
    Quote Originally Posted by Formerbmx37
    so if a put a card in my spokes could i trick people in to thinking my bike is good

  56. #56
    Meh.
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    If it rusts, it does oxidize. But just because it oxidizes doesn't necessarily mean that it rusts.

    It'll look like a$$ if you don't completely disassemble. You won't be able to get into all the nooks. Well... that and other things...

  57. #57
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    it's tempting to do that to my Giant Reign.
    OVER THE LINE SMOKEY!

  58. #58
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    If the chemicals hit anything plastic or rubber it would destroy it. DON"T DO IT MAN! It just isn't worth it.
    Sometimes your the windshield, other times just the bug. That's life. (c:
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  59. #59
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    i used some nasty gel-crap when i did my frame. took the skin off your arm real nice, but was alot more elbow grease than i would have liked... that spray-on type seems to have worked much better, especially when you say "hose it off".

    As for pivot bearings. i took the dust sheidls off both sides so the only thing left was metal, then stripped. Origionally they were pretty "chunky" and i was going to replace them immediately afterwards, so i wasnt worried when i got a ton of paint chips and stuff in them. But pressing bearings is such a PITA that i just repacked them and rode, and they're not much worse than before.

  60. #60
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    i lost a lot of skin on my hands and arms because i couldn't get it off quick enough....now i have scars....i redid my 22. stock with stain stripper and my canoe with stain stripper...i need to try that spay stuff. I like the finish though on my mongoose bdd is going to stay looks nice and new...maybe down the line someday.
    Quote Originally Posted by Formerbmx37
    so if a put a card in my spokes could i trick people in to thinking my bike is good

  61. #61
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    I stripped the paint off my VP-Free cause the paint got all scratched up and I also like the works finish. I hear what others are saying, but the aluminum on my bike under the paint is too shiny and scratched up. I'm thinking about hitting it with some steel wool or emory paper to get rid of the scratches. Is this a good idea? I'm not trying to get a polished finish, in fact I want just the opposite, I just don't want any scratches.

    Like I said the finish under the paint is also too shiny. Nothing like the works finish I see in the store which is much darker and kind've a mottled finish. It's pretty cool. Is that the aluminum oxidation or is it something else? Will my shiny finish finally back off to a more mottled works finish? If not, is there anything I can do to achieve this mottled look?

    Btw, I like the paint on version of the Tal strip. The spray on is nasty and dangerous imho. I'm not comfortable with the aerosolized version of the product, notwithstanding wearing a respirator and working outside. Imho, Jasco is WAY worse than this stuff, but it will still burn your skin. While I'm not done stripping (been through 3 passes already), it's eventually going to come through cleanly I hope. Maybe I'll post a picture when done.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swell Guy
    I stripped the paint off my VP-Free cause the paint got all scratched up and I also like the works finish. I hear what others are saying, but the aluminum on my bike under the paint is too shiny and scratched up. I'm thinking about hitting it with some steel wool or emory paper to get rid of the scratches. Is this a good idea? I'm not trying to get a polished finish, in fact I want just the opposite, I just don't want any scratches.

    Like I said the finish under the paint is also too shiny. Nothing like the works finish I see in the store which is much darker and kind've a mottled finish. It's pretty cool. Is that the aluminum oxidation or is it something else? Will my shiny finish finally back off to a more mottled works finish? If not, is there anything I can do to achieve this mottled look?

    Btw, I like the paint on version of the Tal strip. The spray on is nasty and dangerous imho. I'm not comfortable with the aerosolized version of the product, notwithstanding wearing a respirator and working outside. Imho, Jasco is WAY worse than this stuff, but it will still burn your skin. While I'm not done stripping (been through 3 passes already), it's eventually going to come through cleanly I hope. Maybe I'll post a picture when done.
    try 000 steel wool. If it takes too long use 00 the go to 000 or 0000 grade. Or wet sand with 400-600 grit sand paper. I wet sanded an aluminum part I made and the wet sanding made the part look like brushed nickel.

  63. #63
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    Bike pron:

    This is my baby.

    Yeah not the best shots to show off the frame but it's something.
    Sometimes your the windshield, other times just the bug. That's life. (c:
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  64. #64
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    How much weight saving does a stripped frame have???

  65. #65
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    Here is my Commencal Supreme Mini DH It took me about 5 cans to get it stripped down. The front triangle had 2 coats of paint plus the clear coat so it was a little bit more intensive.
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  66. #66
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    shame you can't get nano technology clear coat,would stop the mud sticking,and keep your lovely works finish pristine.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyrm
    How much weight saving does a stripped frame have???
    About 1/5 to 1/4 of a pound.... seriously

  68. #68
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    depends on the paint job. i just stripped my new astrix huckster and lost 1.01 puonds. it now weighs 9.1 pounds with the steel springed 4way shock. it will drop more when i get the Ti spring and cane creek shock on.


    btw it took five stripping to get all the paint off compared to two/three on most bikes.

  69. #69
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    I work on a bare metal airplane that is 60 years old. It all depends on where you live and how much salt is in the air. I use a chemical called Corrosion X. You just spray it on and wipe it off, and it will NEVER corrode. I treat the inside of all my frames because of the water that tends to remained trapped for a few days. You guy want a real polish job? Come hang with me the week before air show season starts. Doing this thing three times a year make that frame look like a hour project to polish.
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    Last edited by dhtahoe; 02-09-2008 at 10:05 AM.
    Balls to the wall until you see god. Turn Left!

  70. #70
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    With the spray-on stuff I posted, it only took one 'application' to remove most of my powdercoat. The nooks/crany areas took a few extra sprays and some scrubbing.

    That aircraft is badass - what is it?

  71. #71
    P-51 Crew Chief #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrEVS
    With the spray-on stuff I posted, it only took one 'application' to remove most of my powdercoat. The nooks/crany areas took a few extra sprays and some scrubbing.

    That aircraft is badass - what is it?
    That is a P-51 Mustang race modified with a 2300 c.i. Rolls Royce Griffon.
    Balls to the wall until you see god. Turn Left!

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhtahoe
    That is a P-51 Mustang race modified with a 2300 c.i. Rolls Royce Griffon.
    That's not the only mod. Looks like counter-rotating props too, must track nice and straight. Also, the canopy looks modified kinda like an A model. Was that a D model before it go modded?

    I hope to make the air races this year. Maybe I'll do it when I'm up at N*. Is Strega still around? That was a pretty bad-ass warbird, but I've been out of it for awhile.

    Since you have so much experience with aluminum, any idea how to get the mottled look of Intense's works finish? Is that just corrosion?

  73. #73
    P-51 Crew Chief #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swell Guy
    That's not the only mod. Looks like counter-rotating props too, must track nice and straight. Also, the canopy looks modified kinda like an A model. Was that a D model before it go modded?

    I hope to make the air races this year. Maybe I'll do it when I'm up at N*. Is Strega still around? That was a pretty bad-ass warbird, but I've been out of it for awhile.

    Since you have so much experience with aluminum, any idea how to get the mottled look of Intense's works finish? Is that just corrosion?
    I'm pretty sure that look is shot peened. We us it quite a bit in aviation to stress relieve aluminum. It is sort of like bead blasting but uses plastic beads instead of glass. Much finer finish, and clear coat sticks to it very well.

    OT: The airplane is what we call a composite build. The main fuse and wing is from a D-model, the tail is from an H-model, and the canopy and aft turtle deck is full custom. The engine and props are from an Avro Shackleton Bomber. The actual engine in it now came out of the Miss Bud Hydroplane Boat. 3500hp!

    Tiger and Strega are still around, and still kicking ass when the engine holds together. If you ever want to keep on top of it all just go to www.warbirdaeropress.com. I'm Wild Bill Kelso on that message board.
    Balls to the wall until you see god. Turn Left!

  74. #74
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    hey DrEVS - I'm working on stripping the main part of the frame now - pretty much done the rear triangle on my M1. Is there anything I need to watch for with the headtube badge? how is it attached and what's the best way to remove it without damaging it - any ideas?

    in case anyone is interested, I'm using a citrus based stripper - I don't think it's quite as effective as some others and the paint removal takes a bit more elbow grease but the fumes are a lot nicer - my basement now has a nice orange scent!!

  75. #75
    Old school BMXer
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    Quote Originally Posted by rossp
    hey DrEVS - I'm working on stripping the main part of the frame now - pretty much done the rear triangle on my M1. Is there anything I need to watch for with the headtube badge? how is it attached and what's the best way to remove it without damaging it - any ideas?

    in case anyone is interested, I'm using a citrus based stripper - I don't think it's quite as effective as some others and the paint removal takes a bit more elbow grease but the fumes are a lot nicer - my basement now has a nice orange scent!!
    The head badge is held on with double-sided adhesive. You can just pry it off, and apply new double-sided adhesive. On newer frames, you can often just pry it off and simply restick it. Despite its meek appearance, the head badge is fairly stout, so you shouldn't have to worry about damaging it.
    May the air be filled with tires!

  76. #76
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    thanks..will try tomorrow!

  77. #77
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    Think im going to strip my bike too, these look sick.
    Last edited by Joebig585; 04-05-2008 at 02:27 AM.

  78. #78
    Bionic Mtn Biker
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    Glad this thread was rezzed, great info here. I am seriously considering stripping and polishing my Blur 4x, but the raw look on the bike on this thread is pretty nice... Gonna try that Corrosion X as I'll be traveling to Hawaii & South Pacific islands w/ the bike once in awhile.
    Better than he was before. Better. . . Stronger. . . Faster. (but not smarter)

  79. #79
    NEWBIE WAN KENOBI
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    damnnn ! this thread is really making me wanna strip my 7point, i need to stop reading this thread hahahha.

    may be a few more scratches on my frame before decide to completely strip the paint off, ive seen a 7point here in the forum with raw finish and that thing just looks clean as hell.

    by the way where can i get a cheap bearing remover ?
    DO YOU BUTT QUEEF ?

  80. #80
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    I throughly recommend doing it if you are up for the challenge.. I got my new Nicolai shipped without paint then got it polished.. came up a treat. Been riding it through all sorts of muck and although you cant keep it mirror all the time 5 mins or elbow grease and its as good as new






  81. #81
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    Cool. I had a polished Bullit back in the day and it was a real ***** to maintain. Looks awesome when new, but it just didn't last for me.

    As posted, the headbadge comes off with a little prying. I sprayed mine flat back before putting it back on. Looks good.

    No need to remove the bearings. The stripper doesn't hurt the plastic dust seals. Or, you could remove the seals and repack your bearings at the same time as the stripping.
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  82. #82
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    Oxidation?

    Anybody know when my frame will start to oxidize? It's an '02 and was never painted or powdercoated. I'm still waiting.


  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtufino
    Quick Q:

    does it work on pre painted Bikes; example Specialized P1?

    Does it work with Powder coated bikes?

    just curious!
    actually, a friend of mine and i sripped a p1 with that, and i stripped my steelhead pre pink paintjob with that.

  84. #84
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    how many cans of paint remover i need to strip the paint of my ironhorse 7point ? dang it by just looking at the pictures im thinking its gonna take me a week to completely strip the paint off my frame hahaha.

    so back to my question , where can i get a cheap bearing puller and where exactly can i get em ? i think im going to take mine out just to be safe.
    DO YOU BUTT QUEEF ?

  85. #85
    Meh.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newbie Wan Kenobi
    how many cans of paint remover i need to strip the paint of my ironhorse 7point ? dang it by just looking at the pictures im thinking its gonna take me a week to completely strip the paint off my frame hahaha.

    so back to my question , where can i get a cheap bearing puller and where exactly can i get em ? i think im going to take mine out just to be safe.
    One can let me do two sets of brake calipers, a fork, and a hardtail frame.

    I'd just replace the bearings while you're at it.

    As for popping the bearings out... screw driver, a few sockets, and a mallet. And just push it out nice and evenly. Or... get a piece of conduit, cut a few slots in the end and splay it out... just like a mini headset remover.

  86. #86
    EastBaySteez
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newbie Wan Kenobi
    how many cans of paint remover i need to strip the paint of my ironhorse 7point ? dang it by just looking at the pictures im thinking its gonna take me a week to completely strip the paint off my frame hahaha.

    so back to my question , where can i get a cheap bearing puller and where exactly can i get em ? i think im going to take mine out just to be safe.
    IH has a really really tough primer. The paint comes off like a breeze but the gray prime doesnt come off.
    Prettymkiii can vouch for that. Its worth getting IH frames blasted.
    Gamut
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  87. #87
    NEWBIE WAN KENOBI
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    oh crap !

    oh men now im really gonna have to re think this coz i dont want to spend more money getting it blasted.

    good lookin out though.
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  88. #88
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    make sure you do it on a warm day. temp makes a big difference. yes some paint and primer jobs are better than others.

    i doubt that any paint job will not come off with three or four applications. if it takes more you are using the wrong product or not doing it right. some of the nooks and crannys have paint puddled in them so be sure to get enough stripper in those.


    i use jasco. a big can cost me 20.00 and i have done four frames and three of the components, still have half a can left.

    wear safety glasses, rubber gloves and clothes you don't care about. this stuff will eat those too
    Out riding, leave a message

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by OilcanRacer
    make sure you do it on a warm day. temp makes a big difference. yes some paint and primer jobs are better than others.

    i doubt that any paint job will not come off with three or four applications. if it takes more you are using the wrong product or not doing it right. some of the nooks and crannys have paint puddled in them so be sure to get enough stripper in those.


    i use jasco. a big can cost me 20.00 and i have done four frames and three of the components, still have half a can left.

    wear safety glasses, rubber gloves and clothes you don't care about. this stuff will eat those too
    I was told Jasco will hurt aluminum. I used an aircraft aluminum stripper product available at the car parts store. Agree with comments about safety and temperature, but it took me about 3-4 coats to completely remove the finish off my VP-Free. Disagree with other poster about bearings, better remove them to make sure. Sometime I'll post pictures of how it came out. I likey! Unfortunately, not sure what to do to get that mottled "works" finish by Intense, that would be cool. I ended up with steel wool and mag polish and polished mine.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swell Guy
    Disagree with other poster about bearings, better remove them to make sure.
    ... of what?

  91. #91
    Capricious youth...
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    Newbie,

    I love my stripped 7point frame. But it was a pain. I went through two cans of Jaasco style aerosol paint stripper, and it didn't take everything off. In certain locations, the paint refused to melt, scrape, rub, or wash off. Nothing would take it off. I started with a Dremel, but didn't want to weaken the welds so I ended up sending it out for bead blasting. I got lucky in that I have a friend who hooked me up. And the frame looks absolutely amazing now.

    But yes... Paint stripper will take off between 75-80%, but your ability to get the rest off is probably going to require $100-$150 of bead blasting.

    BEFORE:



    AFTER:

    Meh.

  92. #92
    NEWBIE WAN KENOBI
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    deng mike i want your frame ! hahaha
    DO YOU BUTT QUEEF ?

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrEVS
    ... of what?
    To make sure you don't wreck the bearings. My bearings have a plastic face which keeps them in the race. Some of the paint strippers are not plastic friendly. Moreover, my bearings are held in by Loctite, I'm afraid that the paint stripper may also harm or remove some of the Loctite, and god forbid it gets into the bearings themselves.

    Btw, the aluminum stripper I used was Tal Strip II by Mar-Hyde http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aer...ml?itemNbr=319
    . It was not vinyl-friendly, it burned right through a set of vinyl gloves I was wearing. I switched to thick dishwashing type gloves, they were much better. I also recommend the brush-on stripper. You can glop it on there where you need it, and it's cheaper than the aerosol. The aerosol stuff scares me even with full respirator, goggles, gloves and bunny-suit.

  94. #94
    Waiting for Godot
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    [QUOTE=Swell Guy]I was told Jasco will hurt aluminum. QUOTE]



    well IMO stripper is stripper. just different strengths. the lower the power the more applications. if you watch it closer i do better with mo power. once the paint is loose i stop the action and redo the small nooks/crannys or spot finish what needs doing.

    i have never had any pitting or unsmooth results. in fact most of my stripping i just do a quick once over with steel wool and its done.
    Out riding, leave a message

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prettym1k3
    Newbie,

    I love my stripped 7point frame. But it was a pain. I went through two cans of Jaasco style aerosol paint stripper, and it didn't take everything off. In certain locations, the paint refused to melt, scrape, rub, or wash off. Nothing would take it off. I started with a Dremel, but didn't want to weaken the welds so I ended up sending it out for bead blasting. I got lucky in that I have a friend who hooked me up. And the frame looks absolutely amazing now.

    But yes... Paint stripper will take off between 75-80%, but your ability to get the rest off is probably going to require $100-$150 of bead blasting.

    BEFORE:



    AFTER:


    Looks like a skidmark on the carpet and drywall on the floor? Did someone blow the corner in the hallway and take out the wall?
    Enjoy every ride!

  96. #96
    Capricious youth...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newbie Wan Kenobi
    deng mike i want your frame ! hahaha
    Now, what I've been longing for is the raw-metal Avid Codes to match up with the raw-metal lowers of my Totem.

    Wheels I don't care about because I mainly go downhill on this anyway, and I'd kick myself for busting up a $400 wheel. So, WTB dual-duties does it.

    But those Avid Codes are frickin' amazing.
    Meh.

  97. #97
    Capricious youth...
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    Quote Originally Posted by m-dub
    Looks like a skidmark on the carpet and drywall on the floor? Did someone blow the corner in the hallway and take out the wall?
    Just don't tell my boss that I was drifting in the back storage area of my office.

    It was a rainy day, and my tires were caked with mud. Luckily they're doing massive construction in the back 1/2 of my building, so no one would be the wiser.
    Meh.

  98. #98
    Mi vida es bueno
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prettym1k3
    But those Avid Codes are frickin' amazing.
    Yep they are, even with the juicy five levers.

  99. #99
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    I'd thought about doin' the Code 5's, just as a cost saving technique. Even at EP prices, the brakes are almost $45 different in price (per brake). But the galvanized levers make me so hoNry...
    Meh.

  100. #100
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    Careful, don't get that boy honry... he'll start humping everything in the room.

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