This post is one in a series of twelve posts depcting the build of my Hollowpoint MkIII.
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130055
After browsing the glowing Hopey reviews on MTBR back in November '04, I posted this thread asking about a Hopey steering damper for my wife's bike, mainly in the interest of helping her out on some climbs.
https://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Extras/product_68285.shtml
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=60138
After installing her Hopey early this summer and observing some real improvements follow-up Hopey thread in how she negotiated terrain, I began playing with it myself and decided to install one on my own bike.
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=105373
I've only taken the new bike out three times, so I'm not ready to post a full review, but my initial impressions are extremely positive. I especially appreciate that I can pay less attention to the front end of the bike while grinding up a steep climb. The bike tracks nicely through ruts at speed, and the Hopey really stabilizes things when plowing through sandy patches on the trail, working against front-end washout. I've yet to work it through any tight, technical terrain or rock gardens.
In any case, the purpose of this post is to review the installation. Hopey's installation instructions left me with some questions the first time around. I called back for technical support a couple of times, and have clarified the installation to where it makes much more sense (to me, at least).
https://www.merchantmanager.com/timhopey/mounting.htm
So on with the installation. First things first, you'll need to remove your star nut completely from your fork's steerer tube. I've outlined that procedure in a separate post.
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189999
The Hopey kit consists of the damper cartridge, a post and an adapter bracket. Note that the damper cartridge has a 12mm nut at the bottom of the assembly that must be tightened from below (once the damper is inserted into the steerer), hence the need to remove the star nut.
This particular installation is intended to fit my MkIII's Zero Stack head tube, so the adapter is different than what would be included for a conventional threadless headset. Hopey also has adapters for Cannondale Lefty forks, OnePointFive steerers, a version to fit the RS Boxxer, and a "Superlight" version that shaves a few grams.
The first order of business is to remove the upper headset cup, install the adapter, and replace the cup. I've covered Homemade Headset Tools in a separate post.
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1190007
The threaded post hole in the adapter should be centered on the top tube. Don't tighten the pinch bolt yet.
Here's where I break from Hopey's instructions just a bit.
The threads at the top of the damper assembly are not supposed to "nest in" or bottom out on the stem. The reason? When tightening the 12mm nut (which binds the damper to the steerer tube), the damper must be allowed to "pull down" into the steerer. If the stem restricts the damper from moving, the damper may be improperly secured to the steerer or the unit may be damaged.
My workaround? Leave about 5mm of steerer exposed above the stem...
...then place a 10mm spacer over it.
As it turns out, the inner diameter of a stem spacer is slightly larger than the inner diameter of a pinched stem. Where the threaded section of the Hopey would bottom out on the stem, it moves freely inside the spacer.
Next item is to load the headset bearings. Because the star nut has been removed, use a star nut substitute such as Profile Design's Gap Cap (https://www.profile-design.com/2006_product_pages/accesories/acc_karbon_gapcap.html), an FSA's Conix or Compressor (https://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=34&pid=250), or Azonic's Headlock to tighten the bearings. The Gap Cap and Compressor are usually available at shops that sell carbon road forks.
Tighten the plug to eliminate any fore/aft slop, but not so tight that the bearings bind when you turn the handlebars.
Once the headset bearings are sufficiently loaded, tighten the stem and Hopey adapter pinch bolts. Remove the star nut substitute from the top of the steerer tube.
You'll need to cut post so it ends 8mm below the top of the stem assembly. Measure twice, cut once -- additional posts can be ordered from Hopey if you screw up.
I use a Dremel with a reinforced cut-off wheel, but a hacksaw works fine, too.
Install the post into the adapter and grease the upper end where it will interface with the damper arm.
Screw the 35mm bolt (indicated) down towards the bottom of the threads. The damper will rest on this bolt once you insert it in the steerer.
Before inserting the damper assembly, identify the centering mark (small dimple: indicated) and ensure it aligned 180° from the damper arm. So yeah, it should be pointed straight forward when you set the damper assembly in the steerer tube.
Now grab your 12mm socket and whatever extension arms you need to reach the 12mm bolt through the bottom of the steerer tube. It's a tight fit, so you may want to remove your front wheel for this step.
Initially, get the 12mm nut hand tight -- just enough so that the damper assembly doesn't rotate or pull out of the steerer.
Unscrew the 35mm nut to the top of the threads. This will give the damper assembly a bit of room to "pull down" into the steerer in the next step.
Grab your torque wrench (you have a torque wrench, right?) and torque that 12mm nut down to 18 to 24 foot-pounds.
Finished? Double check that the little alignment divot is still pointing straight forward. Keep in mind that the damper features a free (undamped) return to the center position, and if your little divot is canted off to one side, you're going to meet resistance when you turn the bars straight.
If the cartridge is off center, you'll need to loosen the 12mm nut and begin again.
If everything is centered, snug the 35mm nut down and hit the trail!
[TH]Index of MkIII Build Posts[/TH]
[TH][/TH][/TR]
[TD]
MAIN: MkIII / Speedhub Build Pics
Iron Horse MkIII Naked Frame (March 2005)
Hollowpoint Speedhub Build Pictures (April 2003)
Cane Creek AD-12 Air Chamber Volume Adjustment
White Brothers 2006 Technology[/TD]
[TD]White Brothers DT 1.2 Fork Porn
Stripping Anodization
Bottom Bracket Drain Hole Drilling & Installation
Drilling Out Cable Stops (Full Length Cable Run)
Dremel Cut & Prep of Cable & Housing[/TD][TD]Hopey Steering Damper Installation
Stripping & Polishing an Aluminum Frame
Homemade Headset Removal & Installation Tools
Star Fangled Nut Removal (Drilling out the Star Nut)[/TD][/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130055
After browsing the glowing Hopey reviews on MTBR back in November '04, I posted this thread asking about a Hopey steering damper for my wife's bike, mainly in the interest of helping her out on some climbs.
https://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Extras/product_68285.shtml
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=60138
After installing her Hopey early this summer and observing some real improvements follow-up Hopey thread in how she negotiated terrain, I began playing with it myself and decided to install one on my own bike.
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=105373
I've only taken the new bike out three times, so I'm not ready to post a full review, but my initial impressions are extremely positive. I especially appreciate that I can pay less attention to the front end of the bike while grinding up a steep climb. The bike tracks nicely through ruts at speed, and the Hopey really stabilizes things when plowing through sandy patches on the trail, working against front-end washout. I've yet to work it through any tight, technical terrain or rock gardens.
In any case, the purpose of this post is to review the installation. Hopey's installation instructions left me with some questions the first time around. I called back for technical support a couple of times, and have clarified the installation to where it makes much more sense (to me, at least).
https://www.merchantmanager.com/timhopey/mounting.htm
So on with the installation. First things first, you'll need to remove your star nut completely from your fork's steerer tube. I've outlined that procedure in a separate post.
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189999
The Hopey kit consists of the damper cartridge, a post and an adapter bracket. Note that the damper cartridge has a 12mm nut at the bottom of the assembly that must be tightened from below (once the damper is inserted into the steerer), hence the need to remove the star nut.
This particular installation is intended to fit my MkIII's Zero Stack head tube, so the adapter is different than what would be included for a conventional threadless headset. Hopey also has adapters for Cannondale Lefty forks, OnePointFive steerers, a version to fit the RS Boxxer, and a "Superlight" version that shaves a few grams.
The first order of business is to remove the upper headset cup, install the adapter, and replace the cup. I've covered Homemade Headset Tools in a separate post.
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1190007
The threaded post hole in the adapter should be centered on the top tube. Don't tighten the pinch bolt yet.
Here's where I break from Hopey's instructions just a bit.
The threads at the top of the damper assembly are not supposed to "nest in" or bottom out on the stem. The reason? When tightening the 12mm nut (which binds the damper to the steerer tube), the damper must be allowed to "pull down" into the steerer. If the stem restricts the damper from moving, the damper may be improperly secured to the steerer or the unit may be damaged.
My workaround? Leave about 5mm of steerer exposed above the stem...
...then place a 10mm spacer over it.
As it turns out, the inner diameter of a stem spacer is slightly larger than the inner diameter of a pinched stem. Where the threaded section of the Hopey would bottom out on the stem, it moves freely inside the spacer.
Next item is to load the headset bearings. Because the star nut has been removed, use a star nut substitute such as Profile Design's Gap Cap (https://www.profile-design.com/2006_product_pages/accesories/acc_karbon_gapcap.html), an FSA's Conix or Compressor (https://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=34&pid=250), or Azonic's Headlock to tighten the bearings. The Gap Cap and Compressor are usually available at shops that sell carbon road forks.
Tighten the plug to eliminate any fore/aft slop, but not so tight that the bearings bind when you turn the handlebars.
Once the headset bearings are sufficiently loaded, tighten the stem and Hopey adapter pinch bolts. Remove the star nut substitute from the top of the steerer tube.
You'll need to cut post so it ends 8mm below the top of the stem assembly. Measure twice, cut once -- additional posts can be ordered from Hopey if you screw up.
I use a Dremel with a reinforced cut-off wheel, but a hacksaw works fine, too.
Install the post into the adapter and grease the upper end where it will interface with the damper arm.
Screw the 35mm bolt (indicated) down towards the bottom of the threads. The damper will rest on this bolt once you insert it in the steerer.
Before inserting the damper assembly, identify the centering mark (small dimple: indicated) and ensure it aligned 180° from the damper arm. So yeah, it should be pointed straight forward when you set the damper assembly in the steerer tube.
Now grab your 12mm socket and whatever extension arms you need to reach the 12mm bolt through the bottom of the steerer tube. It's a tight fit, so you may want to remove your front wheel for this step.
Initially, get the 12mm nut hand tight -- just enough so that the damper assembly doesn't rotate or pull out of the steerer.
Unscrew the 35mm nut to the top of the threads. This will give the damper assembly a bit of room to "pull down" into the steerer in the next step.
Grab your torque wrench (you have a torque wrench, right?) and torque that 12mm nut down to 18 to 24 foot-pounds.
Finished? Double check that the little alignment divot is still pointing straight forward. Keep in mind that the damper features a free (undamped) return to the center position, and if your little divot is canted off to one side, you're going to meet resistance when you turn the bars straight.
If the cartridge is off center, you'll need to loosen the 12mm nut and begin again.
If everything is centered, snug the 35mm nut down and hit the trail!
[TH]Index of MkIII Build Posts[/TH]
[TH][/TH][/TR]
[TD]
MAIN: MkIII / Speedhub Build Pics
Iron Horse MkIII Naked Frame (March 2005)
Hollowpoint Speedhub Build Pictures (April 2003)
Cane Creek AD-12 Air Chamber Volume Adjustment
White Brothers 2006 Technology[/TD]
[TD]White Brothers DT 1.2 Fork Porn
Stripping Anodization
Bottom Bracket Drain Hole Drilling & Installation
Drilling Out Cable Stops (Full Length Cable Run)
Dremel Cut & Prep of Cable & Housing[/TD][TD]Hopey Steering Damper Installation
Stripping & Polishing an Aluminum Frame
Homemade Headset Removal & Installation Tools
Star Fangled Nut Removal (Drilling out the Star Nut)[/TD][/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]