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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by free-rider_down-hiller
    how much diffrence does the hopey make
    do you really want to know or you posting just to post????....looks like the ladder
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    do you really want to know or you posting just to post????....looks like the ladder
    A ladder is something you climb or ride your bike on, I believe you meant "Latter"

  3. #28
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    Ok well I finally got mine, but I have a few things im worried about.

    1. The dampening effect stops working when my stanchions are near the toptube of the frame. Why doesn't the hopey work that far off center?

    2. It seems like if when I turn left, it is more immediate and stronger, then when I turn right and it is less immediate and less stiff.

    Any tips?


  4. #29
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  5. #30
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    NOTE I DID NOT DO THESE TWO STEPS, COULD THIS BE REASON SOMETHING FEELS FUNNY?

    ...




  6. #31
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    [QUOTE=M1_joel]NATE ! amazing job. you need to write instruction manuals and your photos are fantastic.

    [QUOTE]

    man very impressive Nate
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by vpsaline
    NOTE I DID NOT DO THESE TWO STEPS, COULD THIS BE REASON SOMETHING FEELS FUNNY?
    The Hopey only provides damping 22 away from center, in either direction. Face it, if you've got the wheel cocked that far off center at speed, you're in big trouble and need an airbag!!

    No idea why damping would feel stronger in one direction. Best to email Hopey and ask that question (please post their reply -- I'm curious).

    As for the "immediacy" of damper engagement, you're probably slightly off center. It is difficult to tell from your pictures, but you may need to recenter your dot.

    The part about adding the 10mm spacer to the top... well, like I mentioned in my write-up, I broke from the instructions, but did so on the advice of Tim Hopey.

    Without the extra spacer, the damper tends to rest ON the steerer tube (instead of inside). The spacers give a few millimeters of room for the damper to move while pre-loading the headset.

    Whatever you choose to do, I doubt this step has any bearing on the problem you've observed.
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  8. #33
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    My first impressions are that there should be a more systematic, fool-proof way of finding perfect center.

    Also the hopey should dampen in a speed sensitive fashion. Riders dont need as much dampening @60kmh as at 5kmh. The spinning of the wheels alone keep the rider on rails at 60kmh.

    Also its not a question of dampening beyond 22 degrees for the fun of it, but to keep the sensation linear throughout the handlebar's rotation.

  9. #34
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    Yeah, I suppose there is room for improvement -- and everyone is going to have a wish list. However, I'm impressed with how they could cram what they could into such a small, lightweight, uncomplicated package.
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  10. #35
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    Nate, Thanks for posting these instructions. I referred to them often during my recent Hopey damper installs.

    I have some comments regarding the methods used for loading the headset bearings:
    Quote Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate
    Next item is to load the headset bearings. Because the star nut has been removed, use a star nut substitute such as Profile Design's Gap Cap, an FSA's Conix or Compressor, or Azonic's Headlock to tighten the bearings. The Gap Cap and Compressor are usually available at shops that sell carbon road forks.
    I've tried both the Gap Cap and the Compressor, and IMHO, the Gap Cap is the superior product. I've been unable to get FSA's compressor snug enough to stay in place within the steerer tube so that the top cap could be tightened. That said, if I could get it to hold, I think I'd like the Compressor better since getting the plug tight within the steerer tube and tightening the top cap are two separate operations. When using the Gap Cap, tightening the gizmo inside the steerer happens at the same time as loading the headset bearings. After a point, it gets very hard to tighten the Compressor's bolt and it's hard to tell whether it's due to bearing preload or whether the Gap Cap is just getting insanely tight within the steerer.

    I have yet to try it, but Azonic's Headlock may be the best solution of the lot. Tightening the Headlock's top cap bolt ought to have a very similar feel to tightening a bolt into a star nut. You can usually tell when you're getting into the right ballpark by the amount of torque required to tighten the topcap bolt. (I don't know what this torque value is precisely, but I've done enough of them now to know it when I feel it.)

  11. #36
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    Thanks Nate for the great instructions! It answered almost all my questions. I have heard of some ovalized head tubes. How could that happen? Could I leave the star nut in to load the bearings then take it out before I put the damper in?
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  12. #37
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    I suppose, but that seems like a lot of trouble to install and then drill out a star nut, when options like Head Locks and Gap Caps exist.

    I'm not sure what to make of the ovalized head tube comment. Pick the headset with the deepest cup insertion available? I dunno. Definitely a question for Tim Hopey.
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate
    I suppose, but that seems like a lot of trouble to install and then drill out a star nut, when options like Head Locks and Gap Caps exist.

    I'm not sure what to make of the ovalized head tube comment. Pick the headset with the deepest cup insertion available? I dunno. Definitely a question for Tim Hopey.
    My star nut is already there, so I thought when I do get the damper, I would use the star to preload before getting rid of it.

    I paid attention to front wheel movement today, and even on the road when pedaling, the front wheel is moving around a lot to the pedal rhythm. So I can only imagine how much an improvement a damper would make. I think it would make as big of a difference as stable platform suspension.

    Are you still happy with your damper?
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  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn
    My star nut is already there, so I thought when I do get the damper, I would use the star to preload before getting rid of it.
    No doubt you can do this, but once the star nut is gone, you'll have to find some other method for adjusting the preload in the future. The Azonic Headlock looks like a good solution. (See my earlier post.)

  15. #40
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    Yea, I think I might go with the Hope.
    '96 San Andreas
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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn
    Are you still happy with your damper?
    Yeah, I am... although I haven't installed it on my RIP9. The bracket is mounted, but I was playing with different stem lengths and never followed up. I'll be installing it soon.

    Also thinking of throwing one on the tandem. That front end gets to rocking on a standing climb.
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  17. #42
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    Nice write-up, Nate. I'm wondering if my wife might benefit from one of these...

    Any idea what the weight is?

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by f3rg
    Any idea what the weight is?
    Hopey's site lists the weight at 140 grams. There's a lighter weight version that weighs 125 grams.

  19. #44
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    seems like this might work good at the end of the day when you are getting really tired and need a little bit of extra hmmph.....

    other than using it on newbies it seems that you would get weaker and slower with this on all the time?

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  20. #45
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    why dont you just learn to steer and save yourself the money and hassle

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by matthew4president
    why dont you just learn to steer and save yourself the money and hassle
    Eh... yeahbut, you could make the same argument about suspension forks, rear shocks, disc brakes, fat tires, wide handlebars, clipless pedals, gear/derailleurs, etc.

    A steering damper is another tool available to riders. In fact, I think I'm going to swap one over to our tandem, because there are a lot of wobbles and weight being thrown around that really make for jerky steering. Could better technique address that? Yeah, probably, and that'll come with time.

    In my wife's case, I'm able to fit a short stem, making it easier for her to lift her front end and giving her a little more confidence on downhills. Meanwhile, the Hopey eliminates much of the twitch that would otherwise be associated with that short stem length, which especially helps her on slow climbs.

    On my MkIII (the bike in my write-up), the Hopey was a nice addition. On my current bike, a RIP9, I don't miss it much. So it's really bike (and rider) dependent.

    But this is getting WAY off topic. The point of this thread was to guide installation. If you want to debate the pros and cons of a Hopey, there are plenty of threads elsewhere (many of which aren't two and a half years stale). If you prefer stale debates, click on those first two links in the first post.

    - Nate
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  22. #47
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    I am sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have been following these threads for a couple years. I am finally planning on buying my wife a Hopey this month, and I just have one question about the install:

    Couldn't you leave the star nut in intially to set the preload and tighten the stem, and then just remove the star nut once you are ready to stick the cylinder inside the steerer? I guess you could screw up with your drill and damage the Hopey post, but I am lazy and do not really want to buy any of these other methods of tightening down my headset.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern Vega
    I am sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have been following these threads for a couple years. I am finally planning on buying my wife a Hopey this month, and I just have one question about the install:

    Couldn't you leave the star nut in intially to set the preload and tighten the stem, and then just remove the star nut once you are ready to stick the cylinder inside the steerer? I guess you could screw up with your drill and damage the Hopey post, but I am lazy and do not really want to buy any of these other methods of tightening down my headset.
    No! WHen you assemble it there is a 12mm nut that has to be reached through the bottom of the steer tube. It pushes out 3 flanges that dig into the steer tube, the there is a nut ontop ot the damper that you screw down that pulls everything tight!

    Its stupid simple!!!! She'll love it.
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  24. #49
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    asdfg
    Last edited by Vern Vega; 01-09-2009 at 02:07 PM. Reason: wrong location

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern Vega

    Couldn't you leave the star nut in intially to set the preload and tighten the stem, and then just remove the star nut once you are ready to stick the cylinder inside the steerer?
    Yes, absolutely.

    The other devices are good to have on hand. There's a good chance you'll want to recenter or swap the stem, or reinstall the Hopey for some reason. For less than $20, it's money well invested.

    But for the first go-around, you can compress the headset with the star nut, tighten the stem, remove the star nut, and go on from there.
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