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  1. #1
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    High Roller 2 UST?

    Hey, does anyone know when a UST version of the High Roller 2 will become available? I just ordered a new wheelset (hope pro2 evo laced to Mavic EX823 ) and was hoping to throw a High Roller 2 on the back. Thinking of trying tubeless so was wondering when that might happen. Also, why'd they switch to 2.4" width instead of 2.5" like all their other tires? Is that the new standard for Maxxis going forward?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    You don't need UST version of the Highroller 2 to go tubeless. In fact, everything I've heard about Maxxis UST is that they kinda suck for DH as the sidewall / bead is too weak.

    With 823s, all you will need is two tiny red cups full of goo and a tubeless valve.

    I'm running the new Highroller 2 3C on the rear right now (was on 823s, now they are on a deemax) with just a UST valve + stans goo and there are no problems at all. I've taken it to bike parks, hucked 50 foot gaps, 30 foots to flat... never burped or lost any pressure.

    The HR2 works great on the rear for me, I didn't like it so much on the front so I put the old HR back on the front. It felt too drifty (like a DHF sorta) for me to run it on front.

    Best of luck!

  3. #3
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    the 2.4 is a true 2.4 now so they are a little bigger then the 2.5's of old. They are an awsome rear tire,

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking of putting a dual-ply 3C DHF in the front and a dual-ply 3C high roller 2 in the back since that sounds like what a lot of people are doing. I'm coming from Kenda Nevegals and figured it was time to switch to a nicer tire with the new wheelset.

    Ustemuf, it sounds like you prefer a HR in the front with a HR2 in the back over a DHF in the front. You mind sharing a bit more about why? Does the DHF drift more and grip less?

  5. #5
    Gold it's the new Pink!
    Reputation: Crimson's Avatar
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    I have ran UST's for a long time. I first had the 819's then the 823's within the first month they were out. I can attest to how easy it is to use non UST tires on 823's as I started doing it about four years ago if not more. Any of the Mavic UST's are easy to do this on. I have sealed every Maxxis non UST tire I have tried with a hand pump the first time.

    One thing to be careful of is running lower pressures with a softer bead. I know the problem of burping is common knowledge but for novices this can be a huge issue. Check your tire pressure before rides and make sure you keep up on this.

    I also recommend the Stan's replacement UST valves as the cores are replaceable.

  6. #6
    Now with More Wood
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    I've been on the HR2 in the rear for a couple of rides now. I find it grips better than a DHF in the rear, especially on off camber turns where the DHF can feel a bit "slithery" in the rear, the HR2 hooks right up. To me it feels more like a DHR in the turns, but without the pig-like pedalling characteristics of the DHR. In other words, the HR2 is a pretty awesome tire in the rear. Rolls/pedals fast, grips great.
    I've never tried it in the front, can't comment on that (never ran the classic HR in the front either...always been on the DHF, always felt good with that set up. Predictable behavior, good grip...).

    In terms of size, the 2.4 looks exactly like the 2.5 of the previous generation.

  7. #7
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    Idea!

    Quote Originally Posted by genemk View Post
    Ustemuf, it sounds like you prefer a HR in the front with a HR2 in the back over a DHF in the front. You mind sharing a bit more about why? Does the DHF drift more and grip less?
    I used to ride the DHF and loved it. It had tons of grip, it was predictable, and it worked well in almost all the terrain I was riding on.

    After a couple of months of DHF in the front, I threw a Highroller in front (Super tacky compound of course) and it was very different from the DHF.

    A good analogy I can give is imagine the tires traction is like a light switch. The DHF is like one of those switches where you can hold the switch down and it goes from a little bit of light, to fully lit. It offers consistent feel/grip from the initial turn in to completely leaned.

    The Highroller is like a regular OFF / ON switch. Some people don't like this feeling, but I loved it. If you ride "wishy-washy" the Highroller won't work for you as it will feel like you are drifting around when transitioning to turn. My riding style is a little more abrupt/pinned, so when I'm riding the HR it goes from straight to instantly hooked into a turn. I consider myself an expert level rider.

    Even after running the HR for a couple months, I wanted to give the DHF another shot. I switched it out again in the front and rode it for one day before taking it out. It might be my riding style, but I find the Highroller has a lot more grip to give before washing out. I can ride the DHF hard no problems, I just prefer the HR.

    I tried the Highroller 2 in front and it felt just like the DHF.. it felt squirmy when the original HR would feel gripped. Some people might like the "warning" feeling of squirminess but I don't. The HR2/DHF just feels like it's constantly washing out on me which is why I don't run it. I'm sure I will try a DHF again out in the future to see where it lies with me, but it won't be until I run out of the 4-5 Highrollers I already have sitting in my garage

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the info everyone. Gonna try DHF front and HR2 in the back and give the whole tubeless thing a shot. Sounds like people have had good luck with Stan's UST valves and goo. Any other advice on going tubeless would be appreciated.

  9. #9
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    High Roller 2 = Tubeless

    Quote Originally Posted by ustemuf View Post
    You don't need UST version of the Highroller 2 to go tubeless. In fact, everything I've heard about Maxxis UST is that they kinda suck for DH as the sidewall / bead is too weak.

    With 823s, all you will need is two tiny red cups full of goo and a tubeless valve.

    I'm running the new Highroller 2 3C on the rear right now (was on 823s, now they are on a deemax) with just a UST valve + stans goo and there are no problems at all. I've taken it to bike parks, hucked 50 foot gaps, 30 foots to flat... never burped or lost any pressure.

    The HR2 works great on the rear for me, I didn't like it so much on the front so I put the old HR back on the front. It felt too drifty (like a DHF sorta) for me to run it on front.

    Best of luck!
    I'm struggling to get my tire inflated - HR2 3C 2.4 + Mavic EX823ust rims + Stan's valve & sealant. I heard that the HR2 can be run tubeless , but I can't get it to pump up, I take the same approach as a normal HR 2.5 ust......is it possible? If so, please gimme some tips, I am using a compressor car garage pump!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enduro78 View Post
    I'm struggling to get my tire inflated - HR2 3C 2.4 + Mavic EX823ust rims + Stan's valve & sealant. I heard that the HR2 can be run tubeless , but I can't get it to pump up, I take the same approach as a normal HR 2.5 ust......is it possible? If so, please gimme some tips, I am using a compressor car garage pump!
    Haha dude.. it's definitely possible.. I inflate my tubeless tires with a Park floor pump and going apeshit on the pump action... by the time I'm done I'm sweating!

    With a compressor it should be no problem.

    What you need to do is smush the tire down on the top, front, back, bottom, etc so that the bead is forced to the side.. when I'm pumping it up I rotate the tire as much as possible while pushing down all around it.. this helps gets the sealant spread out...

    Sometimes I have the tire up against the wall, pushing down on it with my hands, and using my knee/shin to get the front of it.. so I get four contact points. You don't want to push too hard, just enough to try to make the bead seat.

  11. #11
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    Rope the tire - Seriously.

    An old garage trick for seating difficult tires.
    Tie a light rope / heavy cord around the centre-line of the tire.
    Snug the cord up until it forces the tire bead to seat next to the rim.
    Inflate with compressor preferably, or by going apeshit on the pump as Kurt suggests.

    It may take a try or two to get the rope centred and tight - but the knobbies usually help rather than hinder in the roping operation.

    Give it a shot

    michael
    A Dirtbag since 1969.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykel View Post
    Rope the tire - Seriously.

    An old garage trick for seating difficult tires.
    Tie a light rope / heavy cord around the centre-line of the tire.
    Snug the cord up until it forces the tire bead to seat next to the rim.
    Inflate with compressor preferably, or by going apeshit on the pump as Kurt suggests.

    It may take a try or two to get the rope centred and tight - but the knobbies usually help rather than hinder in the roping operation.

    Give it a shot

    michael
    this guy uses his brain...good idea for the rope, will come in handy next time!!

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