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Thread: GT STS DH Lobo

  1. #1
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    GT STS DH Lobo

    Posted this in VRC but thought I should also post it here.

    Here's a few pics of my recently built Lobo. Sourced an unused frame and it then took me months to source the parts. Labour of love for one of my dream bikes BITD. Yep I know they're prone to breaking and there's far better modern builds out there BUT building this has taken me back 10 years to when I had no wrinkles or grey hair

    Here's the finished spec and a few pics

    Frame: 1998 GT STS Lobo DH, Bonded Carbon fibre thermoplastic/aluminum
    Fork: Marzocchi Monster T
    Rear Shock: Rock Shox Coupe Deluxe Yank, 6.5" travel
    Headset: Hope Industries Anodised Red with Head Doctor
    Stem: Azonic Equalizer
    Handlebar: FSA Carbon Pro Low Riser
    Grips: Toxsin Lock-on
    Brakes: Hope Enduro 4
    Brake Pads: OEM Hope Sintered
    Brake Cables: Hope Hose Black
    Brake Discs: Hope 203mm Rear, 160mm Front
    Disc Adapter: Therapy Components?????? (not sure as it came with frame)
    Brake Levers: Hope Enduro 4
    Frame Hose Guides: Hope Silver
    Shifters: Shimano XTR M952 9 Speed Rear
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR M960
    Cabling: Shimano XT
    Cassette: Shimano XT M770 9 Speed
    Chain: Shimano HG73 9 Speed
    Cranks: Adventure Components AC 7075-T6 175mm
    Crank Bolts: Brand-X M8 Self Extracting Anodised Red
    Chainrings: Adventure Components AC Holeshot 42T 110 BCD
    Chain Guide: Adventure Components AC Pro Guide
    Chainring Bolts: Brand-X 7075 Alloy Red
    Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN73 73mm x 122mm
    Pedals: Shimano M424 SPD/Platform
    Saddle: WTB Speed V
    Seatpost: USE Sumo 31.6 x 300mm
    Seatpost Binder: X-Lite Red
    Hub Skewers: XT Rear, 20mm Marzocchi Bolt Through Front
    Rear Rim Brake Mount Blanks: X-Lite Red
    Wheelset: Mavic 321 Disc on Hope Hubs
    Tyres: Maxxis Ignitor 2.1 Front, 2.3 Rear































    Although the frame was mint the existing decals had gone brittle with age and had started to flake. Had a new set reproduced which are pretty damn good copies, not perfect but good enough. The frame had to be 'tweeked' for the rear hose guides. The existing cable guides were given the Dremel treatement and a set of Hope Hose guides fitted. Got a few little jobs to do. Extend front Brake Hose, fit rear cabling, fit chain and setup chainguide.

    Slight problem though. Far too nice and mint to ride in all this winter mud and snow so it'll be kept for the Spring Sunshine

  2. #2
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    Dude that thing is sick....very nice how an older bike doesnt look so old and outdated!!

  3. #3
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    so dope!

    Just needs a big fat front tire (and a chain) and you'll have the sickist old school ride in town!

  4. #4
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    Brings back memories.

    Except the XC tires on a dh bike.

  5. #5
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    2.3 is pretty much the max on the rear. Chainstays are very very tight.

  6. #6
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    wow.....that is beautiful....belongs in a museaum ....it looks sweet
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  7. #7
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    That is a sick old school bike, if it was mine I wouldn't ride it. But if you're going to, enjoy it.

  8. #8
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    why 203 rear and 160 front for your brakes?

    And which direction does the rear spring travel? no getting hung up on your seatposts right?
    Turner DHR

    My threads are typically awful. Thanks for putting up with them.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topgun514
    why 203 rear and 160 front for your brakes?

    And which direction does the rear spring travel? no getting hung up on your seatposts right?

    Old frame, rear wont take a larger disc as it would simply eat into the rear stays. 203mm at the front cause I'd like it to stop!!

    The rear shock is termed a 'pull shock', it actually pulls the rear linkage up when compressed. Basically another flawed design by todays standards but when these arrived on the scene BITD they were like OMFG I want one. Cost around $4K out of the box though and thats without race upgrades. Problem was the linkages were very prone to breaking and the bonding could sometimes come unstuck causing problems around the headtube.

    I built this up as a 'retro' passion just for myself. No intention of pushing this beauty down any Black graded slopes. Thought I'd share with some of the younger members (Oh god I'm getting old!!) how these bikes used to look and just imagine the WOW factor these had in the LBS 12 years ago

  10. #10
    Airborne Flight Crew
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    very sick build, thanks for sharing!
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  11. #11
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    Wow - beyond awesome - almost got the same feeling as I did the first time I saw those things - still look like a work of art

  12. #12
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    nice...i like seeing some of the old vintage stuff coming back to life. looks very clean as well. have fun.

  13. #13
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    I want your fork!

  14. #14
    moaaar shimz
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    Siiiiickk

  15. #15
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    awesome bike! Brings back memories for me.

    All you need is a old school boxxer and some old Michilen DH tires.

  16. #16
    Takw/agranofsalt
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    Sweet! Need Gazaloddis for that real old-school vibe though.

  17. #17
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    WOW, I serioulsy think that a lot of bike in that era look better than bikes now, not sure why, but I just do.

    Very nice job. I would ride it.

  18. #18
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    Thanks for the comments guys. Only just got this bike up to this stage of the build. Been working on it since August this year. Also sourced a lot of spare parts for the future including a full bearing and bush set and 2 NOS Shocks. Hint for any other Lobo owners - grab what you can NOW!

    Yep I totally agree with the look of older bikes compared with modern hydroformed frames. Lots of nice CNC work and polished to a mirror finish. I will ride it, not too seriously though, more of a keeper as a work of art and historical importance.

    The tyres (spelt with a Y as I'm a Brit) seem to be causing some concern. The rear is pretty mush already max'd out at 2.3, the chainstays are very tight on the rubber. It's simply not worth causing damage by risking a 2.5. I think the bike came originally with 2.2 Michelins. The front tyre does look a bit flimsy on the forks but with the Monster's I think anything would.





    Some on other Forums are saying that perhaps it should be setup with Boxxer 151's but these Forks are the the first Monster T's produced in 1998 so perfect for the age of the frame. OK they are heavy but are simply way ahead of the competition in build quality and IMHO looks. Match made in Heaven (or Hell!).

    May not be too good around corners but with these baby's coners don't exist you just go straight

  19. #19
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    That bike is t!ts.
    I have a soft spot for older frames.
    My current ride is a '00-'01 Armageddon with a Stratos S8.
    But boy, seeing yours...I need another Monster T.

    Oh yeah, I used to lust after that same frame. In one of the Down vids, there was a guy ripping on one of those with a Boxxer, just absolutely flying. Then I saw the carbon - sold. Have fun with that!

  20. #20
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    im a sucker for the retro bike look, and well this is the holy mother of all retro awesomeness!
    Quote Originally Posted by [Orge
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    This problem could quite simply be solved if people would stop buying Konas.

  21. #21
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    Awesome bike, I lusted after one of those when it was new.
    It's a race bike - get that heavy-ass freeride fork off of there, and get a boxxer pro.
    And for the love of God, man, put the 2.1 in the back and the 2.3 in the front (yes that was DH tire sizes in '98)
    You also need the original Kore B52 downhill stem.

    Just fool'in with ya man - cool retro bike!

  22. #22
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    Can you show us a pick of the rear brake mount and that arm bolted to the canti boss?
    Keep the Country country.

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    Quote Originally Posted by deoreo
    Awesome bike, I lusted after one of those when it was new.
    It's a race bike - get that heavy-ass freeride fork off of there, and get a boxxer pro.
    And for the love of God, man, put the 2.1 in the back and the 2.3 in the front (yes that was DH tire sizes in '98)
    Are you talking about a new Boxxer or one from that Era, If you are referring to a boxxer back then, SCREW THAT!!! The Monster T was a MUCH MUCH better fork that anything RS and Manitou were offering at the time. I remember there was some whispers from some pro DH racers at the time that were riding Boxxers and were totally jealous of the Monster T. But RS payed them to race, so they rode Boxxers.

  24. #24
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    So nice! That was the bike that made me realize that my Amp Research bike was NOT a full suspension bike. Great work!
    If you build it you get to jump it, forget them.

  25. #25
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    It looks more modern than new dh bikes. sweet!

  26. #26
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    Thanks for comments. Tyres......causing concern. 1998 Boxxers or Monster T's? No comparison, Monsters are in a different league.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt
    Can you show us a pick of the rear brake mount and that arm bolted to the canti boss?

    There you go. Seriously considering getting some disc tabs mounted though. It's OK for now but I have in the past seen some frames that used these get the Canti Boss ripped out





    Anybody else got a Thermoplastic Lobo? Any experiences of Racing them BITD?

  27. #27
    hands up who wants to die
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    can't wait to see some ride pics of that bike!

    I didn't know those Monsters had so much rake.
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    why are people telling you not to ride it, because it might brake? I have heard people say similar things when people post pics of the old Specialized FSR's. I am riding my old FSR and have absolutely NO fear of it braking, NONE. They say that Aluminum doesn't last forever, etc, etc...

    Not sure if they realize that the airplane they fly on ever trip is completely built out of aluminum and it isn't uncommon to fly in a plane that is 20-30 years old. A properly engineered bicycle that isn't built to be super super light, I am going to guess will last a LONG time. Especially a bike like yours (unless there is some sort of shelf life for the bonding process at the carbon/alum junctions, which I doubt.

    I still say that the older DH bikes look waaaaaay better than most the stuff out there now, this Lobo DH, Specialized FSR team DH and Intense M1 are some good examples.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadro
    Thanks for comments.





    Just curious....there's a red aluminum bolt that is sticking out just under the caliper body....what's that for?? Can't wrap my head around that one....


    Oh, and don't forget to run the nut up on the eyebolt on the brake arm. And lock it and the upper one down nice and tight too.
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadro


    the number 3 ont he side of the hope caliper, what does that mean? i have the number 4 on the side of mine and always though it meant 4pot, but yours is a 4pot as well?
    Quote Originally Posted by [Orge
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    This problem could quite simply be solved if people would stop buying Konas.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by bxxer rider
    the number 3 ont he side of the hope caliper, what does that mean? i have the number 4 on the side of mine and always though it meant 4pot, but yours is a 4pot as well?

    The number on the caliper related to the size of rotor.
    www.velocitybicycles.comWhere customers become friends, not simply a dollar sign.

  32. #32
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Internal14
    The number on the caliper related to the size of rotor.
    Close. Back in the day if you changed bikes, forks or possibly rotor size. you needed a new caliper-half. The number is for the caliper-half, which obviously mounts to the bike/fork (and the other half of the caliper). I had the old DH4 brakes and they were great, but I was pretty much stuck because I was running them on a Boxxer and the Boxxer had it's own caliper-mount standard apart from everything else, so it had to have a specific caliper-half from Hope.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem
    Close. Back in the day if you changed bikes, forks or possibly rotor size. you needed a new caliper-half. The number is for the caliper-half, which obviously mounts to the bike/fork (and the other half of the caliper). I had the old DH4 brakes and they were great, but I was pretty much stuck because I was running them on a Boxxer and the Boxxer had it's own caliper-mount standard apart from everything else, so it had to have a specific caliper-half from Hope.
    ah yes that would explain it. i was wondering why my lbs ordered in a new calliper half when i had my boxxer fitted (amongst other things)
    thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by [Orge
    ]
    This problem could quite simply be solved if people would stop buying Konas.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Internal14
    Just curious....there's a red aluminum bolt that is sticking out just under the caliper body....what's that for?? Can't wrap my head around that one....:confused.......
    That small Red bolt actually provides a small amount of adjustability and gives some extra rigidity when setting this up. Tightens down on the rear stay and locks it in place. It's Red, it's Bling and suprisingly does actually work. I am however looking at getting Disc Tabs mounted, just need to find a reputable welder close to home.

    The numbering on Hope Calipers is specific to Rotor Size, Fork and/or Frame Mounts. Take a look on the Hope Homepage http://www.hopegb.com/

    Although this bike will be ridden, it's not going to be seriously abused (got others for that ). Due to the rarity of parts it would be a nightmare trying to source replacement rear linkages, etc. Somehow I don't think GT would cover this under warranty. I'm just happy that I've now finally got one of these. 12 years late perhaps but it's put a big smile on my face.

    Will definetly get some pics up of this out on the trail, just waiting for the sun to shine.

  35. #35
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    Very nice ride! I remember drooling over these things in magazines BITD. Any news, updates or recent pics?

    What does that brake arm on the rear seat stay do?

  36. #36
    GOD SPEED # 58 RIP
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    Cool lookin bike nice work d AC cranks are pretty nice. Thought about this thread when saw this video.


    Video: 2012 GT Fury Versus 1998 GT Lobo - BikeRadar
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  37. #37
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    I remembered when I was 14-15 drooling over those GT STS bikes back in the days, this is the best looking one I've ever seen. Good work sir.

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