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  1. #1
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    Fox DHX RC4: bottom out adjuster stuck

    I picked up a second hand DH bike recently and am trying to get the suspension dialed in. I'm having trouble moving the bottom out adjuster dial. I put a 3 mm allen key in one of the perimeter holes and the dial just won't turn. Could it be seized? Has anyone else had this issue? I don't want to force in fear that I'll break it.
    2013 Transition TransAM 29er
    2011 Yeti 303R DH
    2012 Banshee Spitfire V1.5

  2. #2
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    some resistance to turn those

    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    I picked up a second hand DH bike recently and am trying to get the suspension dialed in. I'm having trouble moving the bottom out adjuster dial. I put a 3 mm allen key in one of the perimeter holes and the dial just won't turn. Could it be seized? Has anyone else had this issue? I don't want to force in fear that I'll break it.
    If you can't see the black wrench flats under the blue knob, the adjustment is all the way closed.. turn counter clockwise to free it up.

  3. #3
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    It will take a bit of effort, mine has never been easy to turn. My allen key shaft will bow from the force it requires to turn it. This could be partially due to the kind of awkward method required to turn it, and the way it sits in my frame(access issues when using the allen to turn it). Not sure if its supposed to be like that or not, as I've never turned the knob on any one else's RC4. Mine came factory on a 2011 DHR that I bought used, less than a year old with a recent rebuild performed on it by Fox right before I purchased it. So I would venture to say that all of them require a bit of power to turn. I also release all the air pressure out of the Boost Valve when I turn it.

    What frame is it going on?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by csermonet View Post
    It will take a bit of effort, mine has never been easy to turn. My allen key shaft will bow from the force it requires to turn it. This could be partially due to the kind of awkward method required to turn it, and the way it sits in my frame(access issues when using the allen to turn it). Not sure if its supposed to be like that or not, as I've never turned the knob on any one else's RC4. Mine came factory on a 2011 DHR that I bought used, less than a year old with a recent rebuild performed on it by Fox right before I purchased it. So I would venture to say that all of them require a bit of power to turn. I also release all the air pressure out of the Boost Valve when I turn it.

    What frame is it going on?
    Its on a Yeti 303R DH. I'll try using a larger allen key for some more torque. Thanks for the tips.
    2013 Transition TransAM 29er
    2011 Yeti 303R DH
    2012 Banshee Spitfire V1.5

  5. #5
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    no problem let me know if it works for you

  6. #6
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    Might want to release the air pressure to make it a bit easier as well.
    Desert Sunset Calls/Upward, Pain, Perseverance/Welcome Solitude

  7. #7
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    Yes the owner of the shop I ride for recently had the same issue with his RC4. We worked on it together and fixed it.

    You can remove the blue anno adjuster knob by removing the allen heads. There will be a black adjustment nut that is visible after the removal (approx 15mm or 17 mm). You wiill most likely need to remove the shock from the bike. Then loosen the nut and it will work fine. It was tighten down too much at some point in its life which may have been before leaving the factory.

  8. #8
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    I wouldn't let all the air out. Fox says to drop it to 75psi before adjusting as that is the minimum pressure for the shock. The IFP's seals require some pressure to prevent oil getting by.
    Keep the Country country.

  9. #9
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    If it really is stuck, careful you don't unscrew the chamber while it's under pressure. (being 2nd hand shock, stop unwinding it if you see threads)

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