Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 101 to 125 of 162
  1. #101
    Professional Troll
    Reputation: Gemini2k05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    1,970
    Yeah, you just needed a retune. The mid stroke support of the Dorado is a significant shortcoming for guys our size.

    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    Yes, but hate gyms"..... No, its a good fork but there are also more playful forks out.. I test the dvo now with 80psi hsc1 lsc1 ott 10 turns... I am 210lb hope it works.. The rigid of the dvo is unbeatable !

  2. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772

    Re: DVO SUSPENSION Emerald Review...

    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS View Post
    ...I work on back, legs, chest, arms and grip...(grip is mostly looking at porn at night and etc)
    Dammit! How do you spread rep with Tapatalk!?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  3. #103
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,957
    70 psi was the ticket today, but it might go a little lower. I'll be looking into a custom tune or something to get plusher.

  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    70 psi was the ticket today, but it might go a little lower. I'll be looking into a custom tune or something to get plusher.
    How much OTT are you running? I didn't realize I had as much in as I did...damn near 50%! I back it off a bit more to 35/90 clicks...just enough so after I bounce on the front, the front wheel doesn't "drop" when I pick up the front end.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  5. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    896
    I am running about 15psi lower than the recommend for my weight and still a bit harsh. Going to open the compression several clicks. Not a big knob turner so its new to me.

  6. #106
    Professional Troll
    Reputation: Gemini2k05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    1,970
    The recommended settings for spring rate are way off in the manual. You have to go about 8-15 psi lower. Also, the OTT settings are VERY important. You essentially have 2 springs you have to tune to get the proper feel. My strategy is as follows. Set the main spring air pressure to control bottom out resistance and more importantly mid stroke support. Then set the OTT to control sag and initial feel. The OTT negative spring only affects the spring rate for the first 2 inches I believe (can't remember off the top of my head). You can end up going stiffer on the main spring than you normally would (because you can), so compression and rebound settings will be a bit different than "normal". I think their stock compression settings are way off. Way too much HSC. The stock rebound valving is also way too slow for normal sized riders it seems. They are helpful and good with the retunes.

  7. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8664's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,969
    Okay wil try this setings... I do power walking since 7yaers

    ride.

  8. #108
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,957
    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    How much OTT are you running? I didn't realize I had as much in as I did...damn near 50%! I back it off a bit more to 35/90 clicks...just enough so after I bounce on the front, the front wheel doesn't "drop" when I pick up the front end.
    I have a fair bit of OTT, like 6 or 7 full turns.

  9. #109
    Professional Troll
    Reputation: Gemini2k05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    1,970
    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    How much OTT are you running? I didn't realize I had as much in as I did...damn near 50%! I back it off a bit more to 35/90 clicks...just enough so after I bounce on the front, the front wheel doesn't "drop" when I pick up the front end.
    I'm almost all the way in. Depends on how much air pressure you're running. IF you're at like 90-95 psi you should probably be full in. 70 psi maybe half way in.

  10. #110
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,957
    I dropped to 65psi and it started to feel better. Overall, kind of a harsh ride, but I'm hoping DVO can help me get it to where it needs to be.

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772
    Quote Originally Posted by Gemini2k05 View Post
    I'm almost all the way in. Depends on how much air pressure you're running. IF you're at like 90-95 psi you should probably be full in. 70 psi maybe half way in.
    I'm at ~73psi today.
    I backed the OTT off to about 35/90 clicks today at Trestle and it did just fine. I may try 30 or 25 when I go back to Trestle on Monday. Seems, the more OTT I crank in (CW), the more "drop" of the front wheel I get when I pull up on the bar. Because of this, I don't I'd want to crank in too much OTT, so things get vague on the first 2 inches of travel. I set my sag to ~2" and I want the fork to extend to full 8" w/ some vigor so as to track the ground better. I've got 800mm CF bar and that kinda cuts out the high freq chatter enough where I can go a bit harsher w/ the OTT.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  12. #112
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,327
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    I dropped to 65psi and it started to feel better. Overall, kind of a harsh ride, but I'm hoping DVO can help me get it to where it needs to be.
    call Ronnie...he will set you up exactly how you want it
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8664's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,969
    nice
    Last edited by 8664; 08-05-2014 at 11:59 AM.

    ride.

  14. #114
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,327
    cool vid
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  15. #115
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,957
    While I'm waiting to hear from Ronnie, has anyone pulled apart the rebound damper or changed the oil viscosity to get faster rebound? If so, got instructions or pics? Links to tech docs (apparently, the ones from DVO are "coming soon")?

  16. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    While I'm waiting to hear from Ronnie, has anyone pulled apart the rebound damper or changed the oil viscosity to get faster rebound? If so, got instructions or pics? Links to tech docs (apparently, the ones from DVO are "coming soon")?
    I got this reply from Ronnie, asking about speeding up the rebound:

    You might like the fork better with a faster tune on the rebound stack. Are you comfortable getting into your fork? Also try using full rotations of OTT adjustment to make a noticeable change in performance. Right now you are almost using 6 full rotations of OTT, you should be closer to 9 full rotations.

    If you get into your system and remove a shim from the stack it will speed things up for and make the fork handle better in rough or fast section.

    Stock Rebound Stack

    2 21x.15

    1 - 20x.15

    2 16x.15

    If you remove one of the 21x.15 shims it should be faster. If you want it even faster you can remove the 20x.15 and then replace the 16x.15 with a 18x.15

    It would be

    fast

    1-21x.15

    1-20x.15

    1-16x.15

    Or faster

    1-21x.15

    1-18.15

    Oil is 7.5 and uses 330cc of fluid in the damper.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772
    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    I got this reply from Ronnie, asking about speeding up the rebound:

    You might like the fork better with a faster tune on the rebound stack. Are you comfortable getting into your fork? Also try using full rotations of OTT adjustment to make a noticeable change in performance. Right now you are almost using 6 full rotations of OTT, you should be closer to 9 full rotations.

    If you get into your system and remove a shim from the stack it will speed things up for and make the fork handle better in rough or fast section.

    Stock Rebound Stack

    2 21x.15

    1 - 20x.15

    2 16x.15

    If you remove one of the 21x.15 shims it should be faster. If you want it even faster you can remove the 20x.15 and then replace the 16x.15 with a 18x.15

    It would be

    fast

    1-21x.15

    1-20x.15

    1-16x.15

    Or faster

    1-21x.15

    1-18.15

    Oil is 7.5 and uses 330cc of fluid in the damper.
    This was what Ronnie answered:

    Hey Ronnie,

    For background reference, my Emerald is mounted on a lrg Canfield Jedi,
    2014 model. FYI, I'm using the base tune published by Cane Creek for the
    Double Barrel, except a +1/4 turn on the HSR damping. 400lbs Ti spring w/
    5.5 turns of preload, needle bearing bushing on the rear eye, and a thrust
    bearing spring seat.

    Here are the vitals regarding my fork:

    195lbs fully kitted up.

    Tune:
    73 psi to get 21 to 24% sag
    HSC: 4 in from full open
    LSC: wide open, sometimes 2 in from full open for steeper chunder plowing
    LSR: wide open all the time
    OTT: 35 clicks in from fully backed out (CCW)...out of 90 clicks, if I had
    counted correctly. Just enough so when I pick up the front end of the bike,
    the front wheel doesn't drop appreciably. The thinking is I want the front
    wheel to extend w/ a bit of authority so as to be able to track the ground
    and maintain traction better.

    Don't get me wrong, the fork IS performing. I'm getting ~full travel except
    the last 1/4". BTW, does the Emerald have an anti-bottoming cone like
    Avalanche Downhill Racing cartridge does? Anyway, just wish I had a bit
    faster rebound and slightly lighter H and L speed compressions.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  18. #118
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,957
    That kicks all kinds of ass! I assume there's a separate rebound shim stack at the top of the damper side?

  19. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772
    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    This was what Ronnie answered:

    Hey Ronnie,

    For background reference, my Emerald is mounted on a lrg Canfield Jedi,
    2014 model. FYI, I'm using the base tune published by Cane Creek for the
    Double Barrel, except a +1/4 turn on the HSR damping. 400lbs Ti spring w/
    5.5 turns of preload, needle bearing bushing on the rear eye, and a thrust
    bearing spring seat.

    Here are the vitals regarding my fork:

    195lbs fully kitted up.

    Tune:
    73 psi to get 21 to 24% sag
    HSC: 4 in from full open
    LSC: wide open, sometimes 2 in from full open for steeper chunder plowing
    LSR: wide open all the time
    OTT: 35 clicks in from fully backed out (CCW)...out of 90 clicks, if I had
    counted correctly. Just enough so when I pick up the front end of the bike,
    the front wheel doesn't drop appreciably. The thinking is I want the front
    wheel to extend w/ a bit of authority so as to be able to track the ground
    and maintain traction better.

    Don't get me wrong, the fork IS performing. I'm getting ~full travel except
    the last 1/4". BTW, does the Emerald have an anti-bottoming cone like
    Avalanche Downhill Racing cartridge does? Anyway, just wish I had a bit
    faster rebound and slightly lighter H and L speed compressions.
    And this was his final comment about what the oil is and oil change vs shim stack change:

    The fluid we use is actually a Japanese fluid from a company called Sumico. It is a 125/150 just like the Golden Spectro fluid. Changing the shims is going to work way better and it is actually just as painful as changing your fluid. To do a full fluid change you have to yank that beast apart to give it a good rinse with some suspension clean or even some really good brake cleaner. You can call me and I will walk you through the entire process while you perform the procedure.



    FYI, that 125/150 is ~ 5.36 (Maxima) and 5.25 (Spectro). Avalanche specs 85/150 which works out to ~ 3.51 (Maxima) and 3.82 (Spectro). I used Showa SS7 in my old 888 w/ an Avy cart, 3.77.

    I'm thinking unless the oil is contaminated, a thorough clean won't be necessary...just a full drain (and you'll be able to see if there's any crap in it) then replace w/ lighter.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    That kicks all kinds of ass! I assume there's a separate rebound shim stack at the top of the damper side?
    I haven't opened mine up yet, but I can't imagine that it's too different from an Avy cart. And, I think it (the rebound stack) might be on the bottom of the main piston as the main piston rod, I believe, is mounted to the upper plug and the base value is at the bottom of the leg/stanchion.

    Edit:
    Just emailed him looking for a general sequence of dis-assembly steps, and where they used red Loctite so I know where to apply heat. But I can see a quick oil change can be done by removing the base valve, dump the old oil out, and cycling the leg a few times. Shouldn't require rocket surgery...
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  21. #121
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,327
    changing shims and oil is very easy turn bike upside down....unscrew shim side...replace/do whatever to shims....tip fork over...(not the way of brake rotor-because you don't have to take off wheel.....back to upside down...fill with oil....screw back together...should take 5 to 10 minutes when you have it wired....sucking a brew and going slow 15 to 20




    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    And this was his final comment about what the oil is and oil change vs shim stack change:

    The fluid we use is actually a Japanese fluid from a company called Sumico. It is a 125/150 just like the Golden Spectro fluid. Changing the shims is going to work way better and it is actually just as painful as changing your fluid. To do a full fluid change you have to yank that beast apart to give it a good rinse with some suspension clean or even some really good brake cleaner. You can call me and I will walk you through the entire process while you perform the procedure.



    FYI, that 125/150 is ~ 5.36 (Maxima) and 5.25 (Spectro). Avalanche specs 85/150 which works out to ~ 3.51 (Maxima) and 3.82 (Spectro). I used Showa SS7 in my old 888 w/ an Avy cart, 3.77.

    I'm thinking unless the oil is contaminated, a thorough clean won't be necessary...just a full drain (and you'll be able to see if there's any crap in it) then replace w/ lighter.
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  22. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772
    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS View Post
    changing shims and oil is very easy turn bike upside down....unscrew shim side...replace/do whatever to shims....tip fork over...(not the way of brake rotor-because you don't have to take off wheel.....back to upside down...fill with oil....screw back together...should take 5 to 10 minutes when you have it wired....sucking a brew and going slow 15 to 20
    SMT, that would be for the base (compression) shims. Rebound shims should be on the main piston and you "might" be able to get to it w/o dumping the oil if all you're after is changing the shims. I haven't seen an exploded diagram so I'm not sure how it's arranged in there...if there's a cap on top of the stanchions you need to unscrew/remove...etc.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  23. #123
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,957
    I'm going to tackle this tonight ["...hold my beer..."], or maybe on the weekend. I did find a partially-exploded diagram:
    from Emerald Fork Replacement Parts (100134318) at CambriaBike.com
    This is what the rebound cart looks like:

    So I guess that would be #2 in the prior image. Bottom Loader is #11, but there does not appear to be a direct connection between the two.

    To disassemble, I'm thinking:
    1. let all the air out, maybe turn down the OTT?
    2. flip fork
    3. remove Bottom Loader [25mm socket, right?]
    4. if rebound damper unit is accessible without dumping the oil, undo the nut and have at 'er, otherwise...
    5. flip fork back
    6. drain oil on damper side - cycle a few times
    7. compress fork and strap it down so it stays that way
    8. flip fork upside down again
    9. commence rebound stack fiddling


    I assume I'm missing a step or three... Comments?

    EDIT: Just realized that it's probably possible to pull the rebound damper out the TOP of the fork by removing the top cap assembly and just pulling it out. Anyone try that?

  24. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,772
    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    EDIT: Just realized that it's probably possible to pull the rebound damper out the TOP of the fork by removing the top cap assembly and just pulling it out. Anyone try that?
    Pinkrobe,
    I don't think you'll be able to pull the main piston and rod out the top...see the two threaded plugs...one is the top, and the other looks like it is screwed into the top of the stanchion.

    Hey, when you have the fork open, would you mind taking a couple of measurements if I send you a marked up pic of where? What I'm seeing in that main piston/rod pic is DVO might have simplified and reduced cost of the rebound assembly to get the fork out to the market quicker. I think there might be an opportunity to slip in a mid-stroke shim stack, and a more complex dual stage rebound stack. If you're in, can you PM me your email so I can get the pic to you? TIA

    Edit: I have an Avy Woodie getting reworked right now. If the measurements pan out, I'll be able to get some bits from Avy and attempt the mid-stroke and dual stage rebound mod. Here, check out the Avy cartridge's rebound assembly: Cartridge Revalve, MidValve kit and Special Tools
    Just for clarification, this main piston/rod assembly pictured in the Avy link is in the fork from the top plug. The Emerald is mounted in the same manner.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( . )╭∩╮

  25. #125
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,957
    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Pinkrobe,
    I don't think you'll be able to pull the main piston and rod out the top...see the two threaded plugs...one is the top, and the other looks like it is screwed into the top of the stanchion.

    Hey, when you have the fork open, would you mind taking a couple of measurements if I send you a marked up pic of where? What I'm seeing in that main piston/rod pic is DVO might have simplified and reduced cost of the rebound assembly to get the fork out to the market quicker. I think there might be an opportunity to slip in a mid-stroke shim stack, and a more complex dual stage rebound stack. If you're in, can you PM me your email so I can get the pic to you? TIA
    PM sent.

    The fork oil you were writing about before - was that Golden Spectro 5wt? I notice on the DVO site, it talks about Motul 5wt, but your exchange with Ronnie mentions 125/150, which is 7.5wt? Confusion!

Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. How you like me now....DVO Emerald
    By SHIVER ME TIMBERS in forum Downhill - Freeride
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 01-22-2014, 08:39 AM
  2. Schwinn Rocket Comp Full Suspension Review
    By getagrip in forum Beginner's Corner
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 07-31-2013, 05:56 PM
  3. Emerald Outback ride route
    By swoodbrn in forum North & South Carolina
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 04-26-2013, 03:42 PM
  4. Emerald Outback Trail?
    By LBIkid in forum North & South Carolina
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-28-2012, 07:58 AM
  5. Full Suspension 29er Tandem Review
    By ds2199 in forum Tandem Mountain Bikes
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-21-2011, 02:25 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •