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  1. #101
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    Yeah, you just needed a retune. The mid stroke support of the Dorado is a significant shortcoming for guys our size.

    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    Yes, but hate gyms"..... No, its a good fork but there are also more playful forks out.. I test the dvo now with 80psi hsc1 lsc1 ott 10 turns... I am 210lb hope it works.. The rigid of the dvo is unbeatable !

  2. #102
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    Re: DVO SUSPENSION Emerald Review...

    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS View Post
    ...I work on back, legs, chest, arms and grip...(grip is mostly looking at porn at night and etc)
    Dammit! How do you spread rep with Tapatalk!?
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  3. #103
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    70 psi was the ticket today, but it might go a little lower. I'll be looking into a custom tune or something to get plusher.
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  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    70 psi was the ticket today, but it might go a little lower. I'll be looking into a custom tune or something to get plusher.
    How much OTT are you running? I didn't realize I had as much in as I did...damn near 50%! I back it off a bit more to 35/90 clicks...just enough so after I bounce on the front, the front wheel doesn't "drop" when I pick up the front end.
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  5. #105
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    I am running about 15psi lower than the recommend for my weight and still a bit harsh. Going to open the compression several clicks. Not a big knob turner so its new to me.

  6. #106
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    The recommended settings for spring rate are way off in the manual. You have to go about 8-15 psi lower. Also, the OTT settings are VERY important. You essentially have 2 springs you have to tune to get the proper feel. My strategy is as follows. Set the main spring air pressure to control bottom out resistance and more importantly mid stroke support. Then set the OTT to control sag and initial feel. The OTT negative spring only affects the spring rate for the first 2 inches I believe (can't remember off the top of my head). You can end up going stiffer on the main spring than you normally would (because you can), so compression and rebound settings will be a bit different than "normal". I think their stock compression settings are way off. Way too much HSC. The stock rebound valving is also way too slow for normal sized riders it seems. They are helpful and good with the retunes.

  7. #107
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    Okay wil try this setings... I do power walking since 7yaers

    ride.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    How much OTT are you running? I didn't realize I had as much in as I did...damn near 50%! I back it off a bit more to 35/90 clicks...just enough so after I bounce on the front, the front wheel doesn't "drop" when I pick up the front end.
    I have a fair bit of OTT, like 6 or 7 full turns.
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  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    How much OTT are you running? I didn't realize I had as much in as I did...damn near 50%! I back it off a bit more to 35/90 clicks...just enough so after I bounce on the front, the front wheel doesn't "drop" when I pick up the front end.
    I'm almost all the way in. Depends on how much air pressure you're running. IF you're at like 90-95 psi you should probably be full in. 70 psi maybe half way in.

  10. #110
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    I dropped to 65psi and it started to feel better. Overall, kind of a harsh ride, but I'm hoping DVO can help me get it to where it needs to be.
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  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gemini2k05 View Post
    I'm almost all the way in. Depends on how much air pressure you're running. IF you're at like 90-95 psi you should probably be full in. 70 psi maybe half way in.
    I'm at ~73psi today.
    I backed the OTT off to about 35/90 clicks today at Trestle and it did just fine. I may try 30 or 25 when I go back to Trestle on Monday. Seems, the more OTT I crank in (CW), the more "drop" of the front wheel I get when I pull up on the bar. Because of this, I don't I'd want to crank in too much OTT, so things get vague on the first 2 inches of travel. I set my sag to ~2" and I want the fork to extend to full 8" w/ some vigor so as to track the ground better. I've got 800mm CF bar and that kinda cuts out the high freq chatter enough where I can go a bit harsher w/ the OTT.
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  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    I dropped to 65psi and it started to feel better. Overall, kind of a harsh ride, but I'm hoping DVO can help me get it to where it needs to be.
    call Ronnie...he will set you up exactly how you want it
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  13. #113
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    nice
    Last edited by 8664; 08-05-2014 at 10:59 AM.

    ride.

  14. #114
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    cool vid
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

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    While I'm waiting to hear from Ronnie, has anyone pulled apart the rebound damper or changed the oil viscosity to get faster rebound? If so, got instructions or pics? Links to tech docs (apparently, the ones from DVO are "coming soon")?
    @pinkrobeyyc
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  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    While I'm waiting to hear from Ronnie, has anyone pulled apart the rebound damper or changed the oil viscosity to get faster rebound? If so, got instructions or pics? Links to tech docs (apparently, the ones from DVO are "coming soon")?
    I got this reply from Ronnie, asking about speeding up the rebound:

    You might like the fork better with a faster tune on the rebound stack. Are you comfortable getting into your fork? Also try using full rotations of OTT adjustment to make a noticeable change in performance. Right now you are almost using 6 full rotations of OTT, you should be closer to 9 full rotations.

    If you get into your system and remove a shim from the stack it will speed things up for and make the fork handle better in rough or fast section.

    Stock Rebound Stack

    2 – 21x.15

    1 - 20x.15

    2 – 16x.15

    If you remove one of the 21x.15 shims it should be faster. If you want it even faster you can remove the 20x.15 and then replace the 16x.15 with a 18x.15

    It would be

    fast

    1-21x.15

    1-20x.15

    1-16x.15

    Or faster

    1-21x.15

    1-18.15

    Oil is 7.5 and uses 330cc of fluid in the damper.
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  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    I got this reply from Ronnie, asking about speeding up the rebound:

    You might like the fork better with a faster tune on the rebound stack. Are you comfortable getting into your fork? Also try using full rotations of OTT adjustment to make a noticeable change in performance. Right now you are almost using 6 full rotations of OTT, you should be closer to 9 full rotations.

    If you get into your system and remove a shim from the stack it will speed things up for and make the fork handle better in rough or fast section.

    Stock Rebound Stack

    2 – 21x.15

    1 - 20x.15

    2 – 16x.15

    If you remove one of the 21x.15 shims it should be faster. If you want it even faster you can remove the 20x.15 and then replace the 16x.15 with a 18x.15

    It would be

    fast

    1-21x.15

    1-20x.15

    1-16x.15

    Or faster

    1-21x.15

    1-18.15

    Oil is 7.5 and uses 330cc of fluid in the damper.
    This was what Ronnie answered:

    Hey Ronnie,

    For background reference, my Emerald is mounted on a lrg Canfield Jedi,
    2014 model. FYI, I'm using the base tune published by Cane Creek for the
    Double Barrel, except a +1/4 turn on the HSR damping. 400lbs Ti spring w/
    5.5 turns of preload, needle bearing bushing on the rear eye, and a thrust
    bearing spring seat.

    Here are the vitals regarding my fork:

    195lbs fully kitted up.

    Tune:
    73 psi to get 21 to 24% sag
    HSC: 4 in from full open
    LSC: wide open, sometimes 2 in from full open for steeper chunder plowing
    LSR: wide open all the time
    OTT: 35 clicks in from fully backed out (CCW)...out of 90 clicks, if I had
    counted correctly. Just enough so when I pick up the front end of the bike,
    the front wheel doesn't drop appreciably. The thinking is I want the front
    wheel to extend w/ a bit of authority so as to be able to track the ground
    and maintain traction better.

    Don't get me wrong, the fork IS performing. I'm getting ~full travel except
    the last 1/4". BTW, does the Emerald have an anti-bottoming cone like
    Avalanche Downhill Racing cartridge does? Anyway, just wish I had a bit
    faster rebound and slightly lighter H and L speed compressions.
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  18. #118
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    That kicks all kinds of ass! I assume there's a separate rebound shim stack at the top of the damper side?
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  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    This was what Ronnie answered:

    Hey Ronnie,

    For background reference, my Emerald is mounted on a lrg Canfield Jedi,
    2014 model. FYI, I'm using the base tune published by Cane Creek for the
    Double Barrel, except a +1/4 turn on the HSR damping. 400lbs Ti spring w/
    5.5 turns of preload, needle bearing bushing on the rear eye, and a thrust
    bearing spring seat.

    Here are the vitals regarding my fork:

    195lbs fully kitted up.

    Tune:
    73 psi to get 21 to 24% sag
    HSC: 4 in from full open
    LSC: wide open, sometimes 2 in from full open for steeper chunder plowing
    LSR: wide open all the time
    OTT: 35 clicks in from fully backed out (CCW)...out of 90 clicks, if I had
    counted correctly. Just enough so when I pick up the front end of the bike,
    the front wheel doesn't drop appreciably. The thinking is I want the front
    wheel to extend w/ a bit of authority so as to be able to track the ground
    and maintain traction better.

    Don't get me wrong, the fork IS performing. I'm getting ~full travel except
    the last 1/4". BTW, does the Emerald have an anti-bottoming cone like
    Avalanche Downhill Racing cartridge does? Anyway, just wish I had a bit
    faster rebound and slightly lighter H and L speed compressions.
    And this was his final comment about what the oil is and oil change vs shim stack change:

    The fluid we use is actually a Japanese fluid from a company called Sumico. It is a 125/150 just like the Golden Spectro fluid. Changing the shims is going to work way better and it is actually just as painful as changing your fluid. To do a full fluid change you have to yank that beast apart to give it a good rinse with some suspension clean or even some really good brake cleaner. You can call me and I will walk you through the entire process while you perform the procedure.



    FYI, that 125/150 is ~ 5.36 (Maxima) and 5.25 (Spectro). Avalanche specs 85/150 which works out to ~ 3.51 (Maxima) and 3.82 (Spectro). I used Showa SS7 in my old 888 w/ an Avy cart, 3.77.

    I'm thinking unless the oil is contaminated, a thorough clean won't be necessary...just a full drain (and you'll be able to see if there's any crap in it) then replace w/ lighter.
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  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    That kicks all kinds of ass! I assume there's a separate rebound shim stack at the top of the damper side?
    I haven't opened mine up yet, but I can't imagine that it's too different from an Avy cart. And, I think it (the rebound stack) might be on the bottom of the main piston as the main piston rod, I believe, is mounted to the upper plug and the base value is at the bottom of the leg/stanchion.

    Edit:
    Just emailed him looking for a general sequence of dis-assembly steps, and where they used red Loctite so I know where to apply heat. But I can see a quick oil change can be done by removing the base valve, dump the old oil out, and cycling the leg a few times. Shouldn't require rocket surgery...
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  21. #121
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    changing shims and oil is very easy turn bike upside down....unscrew shim side...replace/do whatever to shims....tip fork over...(not the way of brake rotor-because you don't have to take off wheel.....back to upside down...fill with oil....screw back together...should take 5 to 10 minutes when you have it wired....sucking a brew and going slow 15 to 20




    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    And this was his final comment about what the oil is and oil change vs shim stack change:

    The fluid we use is actually a Japanese fluid from a company called Sumico. It is a 125/150 just like the Golden Spectro fluid. Changing the shims is going to work way better and it is actually just as painful as changing your fluid. To do a full fluid change you have to yank that beast apart to give it a good rinse with some suspension clean or even some really good brake cleaner. You can call me and I will walk you through the entire process while you perform the procedure.



    FYI, that 125/150 is ~ 5.36 (Maxima) and 5.25 (Spectro). Avalanche specs 85/150 which works out to ~ 3.51 (Maxima) and 3.82 (Spectro). I used Showa SS7 in my old 888 w/ an Avy cart, 3.77.

    I'm thinking unless the oil is contaminated, a thorough clean won't be necessary...just a full drain (and you'll be able to see if there's any crap in it) then replace w/ lighter.
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS View Post
    changing shims and oil is very easy turn bike upside down....unscrew shim side...replace/do whatever to shims....tip fork over...(not the way of brake rotor-because you don't have to take off wheel.....back to upside down...fill with oil....screw back together...should take 5 to 10 minutes when you have it wired....sucking a brew and going slow 15 to 20
    SMT, that would be for the base (compression) shims. Rebound shims should be on the main piston and you "might" be able to get to it w/o dumping the oil if all you're after is changing the shims. I haven't seen an exploded diagram so I'm not sure how it's arranged in there...if there's a cap on top of the stanchions you need to unscrew/remove...etc.
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  23. #123
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    I'm going to tackle this tonight ["...hold my beer..."], or maybe on the weekend. I did find a partially-exploded diagram:
    from Emerald Fork Replacement Parts (100134318) at CambriaBike.com
    This is what the rebound cart looks like:

    So I guess that would be #2 in the prior image. Bottom Loader is #11, but there does not appear to be a direct connection between the two.

    To disassemble, I'm thinking:
    1. let all the air out, maybe turn down the OTT?
    2. flip fork
    3. remove Bottom Loader [25mm socket, right?]
    4. if rebound damper unit is accessible without dumping the oil, undo the nut and have at 'er, otherwise...
    5. flip fork back
    6. drain oil on damper side - cycle a few times
    7. compress fork and strap it down so it stays that way
    8. flip fork upside down again
    9. commence rebound stack fiddling


    I assume I'm missing a step or three... Comments?

    EDIT: Just realized that it's probably possible to pull the rebound damper out the TOP of the fork by removing the top cap assembly and just pulling it out. Anyone try that?
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  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    EDIT: Just realized that it's probably possible to pull the rebound damper out the TOP of the fork by removing the top cap assembly and just pulling it out. Anyone try that?
    Pinkrobe,
    I don't think you'll be able to pull the main piston and rod out the top...see the two threaded plugs...one is the top, and the other looks like it is screwed into the top of the stanchion.

    Hey, when you have the fork open, would you mind taking a couple of measurements if I send you a marked up pic of where? What I'm seeing in that main piston/rod pic is DVO might have simplified and reduced cost of the rebound assembly to get the fork out to the market quicker. I think there might be an opportunity to slip in a mid-stroke shim stack, and a more complex dual stage rebound stack. If you're in, can you PM me your email so I can get the pic to you? TIA

    Edit: I have an Avy Woodie getting reworked right now. If the measurements pan out, I'll be able to get some bits from Avy and attempt the mid-stroke and dual stage rebound mod. Here, check out the Avy cartridge's rebound assembly: Cartridge Revalve, MidValve kit and Special Tools
    Just for clarification, this main piston/rod assembly pictured in the Avy link is in the fork from the top plug. The Emerald is mounted in the same manner.
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  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Pinkrobe,
    I don't think you'll be able to pull the main piston and rod out the top...see the two threaded plugs...one is the top, and the other looks like it is screwed into the top of the stanchion.

    Hey, when you have the fork open, would you mind taking a couple of measurements if I send you a marked up pic of where? What I'm seeing in that main piston/rod pic is DVO might have simplified and reduced cost of the rebound assembly to get the fork out to the market quicker. I think there might be an opportunity to slip in a mid-stroke shim stack, and a more complex dual stage rebound stack. If you're in, can you PM me your email so I can get the pic to you? TIA
    PM sent.

    The fork oil you were writing about before - was that Golden Spectro 5wt? I notice on the DVO site, it talks about Motul 5wt, but your exchange with Ronnie mentions 125/150, which is 7.5wt? Confusion!
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  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    PM sent.

    The fork oil you were writing about before - was that Golden Spectro 5wt? I notice on the DVO site, it talks about Motul 5wt, but your exchange with Ronnie mentions 125/150, which is 7.5wt? Confusion!
    I'll take Ronnie's word on the oil weight...
    The Spectro 5wt actually is lighter when tested. Seems everything's about 2wt off (lighter) from label vs tested. But, I also read somewhere that viscosity doesn't have that much of a change to damping...so it might be all for not...

    I'l mark up the pic at work tomorrow and email it out. But basically, I just need for you to see about that little black thing on top of the main piston, if that little black thing is removable, if so, what is its diameter and the diameter of the rod under it and if it's the same diameter as where the main piston sits on that shaft. I'll also need a pic of the main piston to see if it is ported so I can mount some shims on the top/rod side of the piston face

    If the Avy mid-valve kit can be dropped right on there...HOLY CRAP would that be a SICK upgrade! Also, I'm eyeballing that rebound stack and it's super simple! If you can put in a 18mm x 0.10mm and a 16 x 0.1 shim between the 21 and 20, you'd get a more open LSR and no real change on the HSR, which is pretty good as is.

    And yes, I am that much of a maniac to mess w/ a $2300 fork

    Edit: I take back the quick to market comment. Upon closer inspection, it looks like that black top hat looking thing is not movable and it has a rebound bypass port on the side of it. So, no mid-stroke valve opportunity. But, there seems to be room on the shaft for more shims, so still good for more complex rebound stack.
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  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    I'll take Ronnie's word on the oil weight...
    The Spectro 5wt actually is lighter when tested. Seems everything's about 2wt off (lighter) from label vs tested. But, I also read somewhere that viscosity doesn't have that much of a change to damping...so it might be all for not...
    The labeled "WT" on the front of the bottle is virtually useless. You should know this before starting to mess with shim arrangements in your fork. You need to be looking at the centistoke value for the particular oil in question, as well as viscosity index. There are many instances of brands relabeling oil with different WT values. For instance, Rockshox may take a Maxima 5wt oil and rebottle it in Rockshox packaging and have it labeled at 10WT. alas, useless. When looking for a substitute for suspension fluid, DO NOT use the WT labeled on the bottle as reference.

    DO NOT GO BY LABLED OIL WEIGHT! Not only is this a poor way to decide which oil to use, but each manufacturer seems to be on a different scale. For example Maxima RSF 7wt is actually lighter than Spectro 5wt and Silkolene Pro RSF 7.5wt is actually heavier than Showa SS-8 10wt. This is not a judgment about the quality of these oils, just that the 'weight' label leads to a lot of trouble when trying to tune with suspension oils.

    Read: Suspension Fluid - Pvdwiki

    Oil Chart: http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/ima...osity-Data.gif

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by csermonet View Post
    The labeled "WT" on the front of the bottle is virtually useless. You should know this before starting to mess with shim arrangements in your fork. You need to be looking at the centistoke value for the particular oil in question, as well as viscosity index. There are many instances of brands relabeling oil with different WT values. For instance, Rockshox may take a Maxima 5wt oil and rebottle it in Rockshox packaging and have it labeled at 10WT. alas, useless. When looking for a substitute for suspension fluid, DO NOT use the WT labeled on the bottle as reference.

    DO NOT GO BY LABLED OIL WEIGHT! Not only is this a poor way to decide which oil to use, but each manufacturer seems to be on a different scale. For example Maxima RSF 7wt is actually lighter than Spectro 5wt and Silkolene Pro RSF 7.5wt is actually heavier than Showa SS-8 10wt. This is not a judgment about the quality of these oils, just that the 'weight' label leads to a lot of trouble when trying to tune with suspension oils.

    Read: Suspension Fluid - Pvdwiki

    Oil Chart: http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/ima...osity-Data.gif
    You might want to compare the WT values I cited to the brand on this table:

    http://www.qemsc.com.au/documents/suspensionoils.pdf
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    sorry but now any body ride 10-20 psi lower than recommend incl. I.. normally that your guys have slow rebound effect!!! when i think to the this video back in time:
    you can see in two parts of the ride like the fork works in the middle and the end of the video!!
    <iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/97060633" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/97060633">Dvo-Action</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1950206">8664</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

    219lb race ready:
    90psi
    1lsc
    1hsc
    8RB
    13turns OTT

    maybe you not use full travel but i was plusher and faster on the course and less arm bump.

    ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

    now with
    219 race ready
    78psi
    hsc 1
    lsc 1
    RB 6
    ott39 klicks

    it feels plusher but the ride is harder!!!!
    Last edited by 8664; 07-09-2014 at 12:57 PM.

    ride.

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    Just talked to Ronnie, and he confirmed everything that Pau11y was saying. However, to access the rebound shim stack, the rod has to be unbolted from the top cap (12mm locknut). I should be able to do this on Friday, and will post pics and guidance.

    Edit: shims have 8mm ID.
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  31. #131
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    DVO Emerald Rebound Shim Stack Mod

    I asked Ronnie whether I could get away with setting the shim stack for super-fast rebound, and he said yes, just run a 21 and a 16. Running a 21 and an 18 is quieter, but gives approximately the same range of adjustment. Here's what I did:

    1. Always start with a clean work surface.


    2. Remove fork leg. This was Ronnie's suggestion, and it makes things waaaaay easier, and only takes a few extra minutes. Before you remove the fork leg, loosen the top cap [30mm socket] and the Bottom Loader [25mm socket]. If you can't remove the fork leg [4mm bolts, 3mm bolts], think twice about doing this mod.

    I didn't have a 30mm socket, so I used a headset wrench. Remember those?


    3. Remove the Bottom Loader.



    4. Dump the oil into a handy receptacle. You'll need to cycle the leg a bit to get it all out, but there will still be some hiding in the leg to drip onto the floor, your work bench, your pants, etc.


    5. Unscrew the top cap from fork leg, back the green locknut off using a 12mm wrench whilst holding the top cap with the 30mm socket/wrench, and then unscrew it from the the rebound rod. You don't need to take off the rebound adjustment knob [I did using a 2mm hex, and it made no difference]. The rod is threaded through the green lock nut and into the top cap.


    It should look like this with the top cap and lock nut removed:


    The rod is too slippery to just grip with your hand while you unscrew it from the top cap. Grasp it firmly with something grippy or it will just rotate in your hand. I wrapped it in rubber and held it in place with channel-lock pliers. With the top cap and lock nut off, the rod will literally drop right out of the fork leg, so be prepared to catch it.


    6. To remove the nut holding the shim stack in place, use a 13mm wrench on the nut and hold the black part in place with an 8mm wrench. It's on there pretty good, but don't go into beast mode trying to get it off.


    7. Remove the clamp shim [the thick washer-type thing].


    8. Ease those shims off the threaded part of the damper body. I used the tip of a box cutter. From left to right, we have 21, 21, 20, 16, clamp shim.


    9. For super-fast rebound, put on one of the 21mm shims, and then the 16mm, leaving the other 21 and the 20 off. All shims are 0.15mm thick and have an inside diameter of 8mm. Apparently, these are pretty common. Note that I have the nut on the wrong way in this photo. See step #5 above for the correct nut setup.


    10. To reinstall your modified rebound damper, start at step 7 above and work your way back to the beginning. If your oil was contaminated or you spilled it or something, the fork leg requires 330cc of fork oil. No, you cannot use motor oil. Spectro Golden 7.5wt is what Ronnie uses for rebuilds stateside. I couldn't find that in my hood, so I ended up topping off with Bel-Ray 7wt [similar properties]. The fork didn't burst into flames, so it should be good. When putting the Bottom Loader back in, make sure the fork leg is fully extended. If it's compressed when the top cap and bottom loader are tightened up, you will create a vacuum when the fork is extended, and it will want to shoot back up into the body like a wang in cold water.

    11. It's time...
    Last edited by pinkrobe; 09-12-2014 at 11:00 AM.
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  32. #132
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    awesome
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  33. #133
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    nice thanks, but my rebound is super fast even with 78psi and 219lb rider wight.

    ride.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    nice thanks, but my rebound is super fast even with 78psi and 219lb rider wight.
    Well, you could always slow down your rebound by adding another 20mm shim and removing the 16...
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  35. #135
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    no, the dvo stock setup shim are okay... i am 100kg never had a slow rebound..
    have you not problems with the 3500gr dvo fork, to make manual, to steer ?

    ride.

  36. #136
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    Re: DVO SUSPENSION Emerald Review...

    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    have you not problems with the 3500gr dvo fork, to make manual, to steer ?
    Nope
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  37. #137
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    the 3500gr is real and its thru ... to lift the front wheel on ride is a pain .. if you before ride a 2650gr fork! i going up to a 2015 boxer team with charger damper..

    ride.

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    no, the dvo stock setup shim are okay... i am 100kg never had a slow rebound..
    have you not problems with the 3500gr dvo fork, to make manual, to steer ?
    Rebound is in the hand of the bar-holder...
    If I can't make manual on my road bike with a 450g fork and 800g wheel+tire, I sure as **** won't be making manual with a 3500g fork and 2000g wheel+tire...
    To steer is good. Steer is quick and confident.
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  39. #139
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    Re: DVO SUSPENSION Emerald Review...

    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    Rebound is in the hand of the bar-holder...
    Wax-poetic on a suspension thread? Brave man!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Wax-poetic on a suspension thread? Brave man!
    Waxing poetic
    It's how I roll, my good chum
    Channeling the ride
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  41. #141
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    whats about the unsuspended bulk on the DVO, 300gr oil in the down leg and 400gr cta mounted on the down leg "wheel"? this is what i mean "lift" the fork under downhill ride is different to other forks like bos rare, boxer. ...

    ride.

  42. #142
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    Shims and lighter oil arrives today. Kinda lined out a tune to try. Well post the tune and ride impression as I'll be going up to Trestle tomorrow.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    whats about the unsuspended bulk on the DVO, 300gr oil in the down leg and 400gr cta mounted on the down leg "wheel"? this is what i mean "lift" the fork under downhill ride is different to other forks like bos rare, boxer. ...
    I will take the 1 lbs extra for lower service times and having the ability to rebuild fast if needed. Also the fork works well it is very controlled.

  44. #144
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    Re: DVO SUSPENSION Emerald Review...

    Quote Originally Posted by ianjenn View Post
    I will take the 1 lbs extra for lower service times and having the ability to rebuild fast if needed. Also the fork works well it is very controlled.
    And, that extra pound...I can't feel it when on trail. But then, I'm coming from an Avy cart'd 38mm 888 WC w/ about 330 ml of oil in EACH leg.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  45. #145
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    nice
    Last edited by 8664; 08-05-2014 at 10:57 AM.

    ride.

  46. #146
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    don't start with step #11, but i you do, do it in moderation!
    '11 Jedi
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  47. #147
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    Retuned the shim stacks

    As shipped per Ronnie (all shims are 0.15mm out of the box):
    Rebound
    base
    21
    21
    20
    16
    16
    clamp

    Compression
    base
    22
    13
    20
    13
    17
    14
    clamp
    Oil used by DVO is 125/150 (7.5wt). ~300ml fill.
    **This tune is ENTIRELY too slow/overdamped. I pretty much had everything wide open even after break-in. I also notice my hands would get tired pretty quickly.

    New tune (everything in red is 0.10mm, else, I reused the 01.5mm):
    Rebound
    base
    21
    18
    15
    21
    20
    16
    16 (removed)
    clamp

    Compression
    base
    22
    20
    18
    13
    20
    19
    18
    13
    17
    16 (added)
    14
    clamp
    I changed the oil to 85/150 (5wt) Spectro fork cartridge fluid.
    Air pressure is 73psi on a Fox digital shock pump. 330ml of oil as per the manual. I may take out ~20ml to get deeper travel. I was using only 7", even dropping a 10 footer to a good tranny.
    This brought everything to a more usable range.
    Rebound: 10 clicks from full open out of 38, set up pretty fast for jump lines
    LSC: 9 clicks from full open out of 26, a compromise for supple and g-outs
    HSC: 5 clicks from full open out of 33. This is still pretty open, but that additional 16 shim to the stack offers pretty good high speed support.

    The ride, paired to an Avy Woodie that is tuned w/ fastish rebound for the '14 Canfield Jedi, is now MUCH more poppy! Before the tune, I was having issues clearing some tables and getting up on step-ups, unless I was moving at mach-looney. With this tune, I over-shot a couple even while feathering brakes. On the HSC, that step-up I was having issues getting up on went into a pretty tight berm that was almost 180 degrees, then you send it off a ~10 ft drop. The fork was good before, but now, it's like coming down on a memory foam mattress! Next time out I'll take it down some chunder. Trestle Downhill was REALLY busy today w/ a race scheduled on it tomorrow. But, what chunks I did hit, it felt like it had a pretty good bit of suppleness in the start of the fork, and would ramp up very nicely when it got deep. Pretty happy w/ this tweak.

    Oh, I also backed off the OTT to a point where when I lifted the front of the bike, I no longer felt the front wheel drop...maybe 25 clicks...?

    BTW, I'm 190 kitted up.
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  48. #148
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    @Pau11y
    why you say the dvo is overdamped? do you think dvo engineer sale a $2200 fork overdamped where is two years testet and have such a big internet promotion $$... ?
    than they failed full with the emerald product!!

    ride.

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    @Pau11y
    why you say the dvo is overdamped? do you think dvo engineer sale a $2200 fork overdamped where is two years testet and have such a big internet promotion $$... ?
    than they failed full with the emerald product!!
    Yeah, it is over damped with the stock tune. Especially the rebound and HSC to a lesser extent.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Compression
    base
    22
    20
    18
    13
    20
    19
    18
    13
    17
    16 (added)
    14
    clamp
    I changed the oil to 85/150 (5wt) Spectro fork cartridge fluid.
    Air pressure is 73psi on a Fox digital shock pump. 330ml of oil as per the manual. I may take out ~20ml to get deeper travel. I was using only 7", even dropping a 10 footer to a good tranny.
    This brought everything to a more usable range.
    Rebound: 10 clicks from full open out of 38, set up pretty fast for jump lines
    LSC: 9 clicks from full open out of 26, a compromise for supple and g-outs
    HSC: 5 clicks from full open out of 33. This is still pretty open, but that additional 16 shim to the stack offers pretty good high speed support.
    That 16 in your 3rd stage of the stack is not doing anything noticeable for you, guarantee it. Basically you're expecting the 2nd 18mm to flex up and bend up the 17mm enough for the 16mm to have noticeable support on it?? Doubtful. If it were a single stage, maybe, but your other two stages are allowing plenty of port opening and modulation towards the outside, independent of a 3rd stage intermediate shim.

    If you're noticing increased high speed support, that's work being done by the 20/19/18 in the second stage, which is a pretty dense stack, compared to the rest of the valve.

    There is only about 15cc of oil going through that valve. If the rod diameter were WAY larger and displacing more oil through it, maybe....but even then, still not likely.

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