DH Bike Build Question
I am new to DH bikes, but there are a lot of crazy near straight down hills I want to ride but do not have the right bike for it. I don't know the difference in a DH and FR bike, but I am not riding a lift to the top, I have to ride/walk to the top which is around 5-8 miles on average.
So am I missing anything from this bike build?
Did I select anything incompatible without knowing it?
I basically took the spec list from the top GT Fury package and then tweaked it for my self a bit more.
I think I can put this together for less than GT including wheels.
GT Fury Alloy Frame Kit 2013
Marzocchi 888 RC3 Evo V.2 Fork 2013 White, 1 1/8" Steerer, 20mm Axle
Hope Top Crown and Integrated Stem Black, Marzocchi 888
Shimano M825 Saint Crankset Black, 170mm, 83mm
Sram XG-1099 XX 10 Speed Cassette 11-32T
Sram PC-1090R Chain 2010 Silver, 10SP
E.13 LG1+ Chain Retention System 2009 White, 32-36T, ISCG05
Shimano M820 Saint Rear Derailleur Black, DH, 11-23T/11-28T
Shimano M820 Saint Shift Lever Black, Right Only
Shimano M820 Saint Disc Brake Set Black, Right
Shimano M820 Saint Disc Brake Set Front, Left
Shimano SM-RT98 Rotor 203mm
Fox Doss 5" Dropper Seatpost Black, 31.6mm
Truvativ Hussefelt Comp Riserbar Blast Black, 700, 20mm Rise
Cane Creek Angleset ZS49 .5/1.0/1.5 Kit BAA0203K, 1.5HT, 1-1/8ST, 3-
Oury Mountain Grip Black
Alloy Headset Spacers Black, 5mm & 10mm, 1 1/8"
Planning CK Hubs on proper DH Rims, not yet selected.
I'm not sure on the riser handle bar... suggestions welcome.
Last edited by Trail_Blazer; 07-20-2013 at 11:45 AM.
Why are you putting a dropper post on a DH bike?
Originally Posted by Fuglio
mbell is right, no need for the dropper post on a dh bike and and the bars at 700mm are to narrow and twitchy, that width is more xc oriented. You want to slow down the steering on a dh bike, I would suggest 750mm at the bare minimum.
Please let me know what you all think about this?
I can easily change the handle bars down the line it's not a deal breaker as of this moment.
I get what you all mean about the wide bars.
However, my choice for narrow bars is because it fits my body better on my Trail bike.
I rode with a nice DH Easton Havoc/Haven bar at 711mm and it made me hold my wrists at a too bent angle which hurt over time.
I moved back to a 680mm bar and it's just right, on my XC bike that is.
Maybe downhill handlebars are shaped for the bike differently because the whole bike geometry is different.
I wanted a dropper post based on riding my local area, I often will enjoy a nice a few miles or more of mixed single track and up hill and short descents or drop offs, before I get to the BIGer descents.
During the long ride up there are a lot of opportunities for me to change my seat height and I'd rather not have to break my flow.
If I find it to be unnecessary, I'll just move it to my light Trail bike.
Do you all have suggestions on proper DH Rim & Spokes for a tubeless setup which to build on with CK Hubs.
Tires are not on my list yet, I have a feeling I will have to try a few to find the right tire for my intended trails.
Because I want to enjoy some light hard-pack trails for 10 miles before I get to the downhill sections and I don't want to be fully worn out from paddle wheels dragging me down.
The tire right below a Hans Damph is probably what I need, with sidewall protection.
Sounds like you DONT need a full blown DH bike to me .. I think you need to look elsewhere and try a more proper build such as maybe a 6-7 inch bike .
No one needs any bike, it's what I want though.
Originally Posted by aedubber
I like to ride DH and need a DH bike for that.
I disagree with the notion a bike can only be used for one type of thing ever.
Heck I have gone down many times hill on my HT in places I should not have, sometimes even crashed bad.
All in the name of fun.
The DH bike will help me safely go full on the crazy DH trails I find, instead of skipping the jumps due to bike geometry, not just the quantity of suspension travel.
I could probably use a bike like "The One" to but I'm more interested in this Fury frame.
I've seen videos of people riding it just fine on single track and then bombing down.
That's kind of like what I do too.
I also think can transplant any of these components onto a different frame, with minimal effort.
aedubber, you did your job by giving a fellow MTB biker the appropriate advice, now wash your hands of it. These ego builds always end in regret and a whole lot of wasted money. It is obvious the OP is unexperienced w/DH, which is fine, but unfortunately does not want to be educated, which is counter productive. My grandmother said it the best, "A hard head makes a soft a$$".
Originally Posted by aedubber
Last edited by Drth Vadr; 07-20-2013 at 04:41 PM.
I just assumed he was getting the bike as his DH sled, his money his prerogative and potentially his problem. I hope it works out for him.
If you are set on a dropper post, I'd not go for the DOSS. Lots of issues (unless they have recently changed the design. Go for a KS or a Reverb if the KS isn't in stock.
tangaroo: What electrolytes do chicken and turkey have again?
rck18: All of them, because they're meat.
I'm confisued, what's the problem, what is it I am not open minded about?
Please do educate me.
What am I missing that is obvious to those of you with lots of DH experiance?
I have not actually heard any advice other then, do not buy a Down Hill bike.
Maybe I should be using the words Freeride or slopestyle and bigmountain style riding. I'm new so how should I know. I see insane huge hills I want to ride and need a very slack geometry to ride down them and probably a high bottom bracket.
I do not have the option to demo a series of DH bike frames.
However, when I sit on the bikes like a Remedy or a StumpJumper, the geometry is not angled enough for the downhill runs I am looking at.
Why buy an Endo bike if I want to go DH?
Maybe I need to loose a limb on the side of Mt. Everest to prove that I want to ride DH and that I'm worthy of it?
I do not think I am the one with Ego problems, I get the same indignant responces from many people on these forums, who claim to be know it alls but never actually teach, just point and laugh at the newbies.
Real nice way to build a community.
The guy's who run the local clubs here ride DH bikes and HT bikes and everything in between and never judge or look down on others like I find on these forums.
I guess I will give up hope that the internet forums are anything but a waste of time.
I'll go back to meeting real people in the real world who speak with mutual respect, on the internet anyone can poke you in the eye and get away with it.
Originally Posted by Drth Vadr
Originally Posted by danglingmanhood
Last edited by Trail_Blazer; 07-20-2013 at 02:45 PM.
I was looking for a dropper that has steps, do the reverb or ks have steps or infinate travel only?
Originally Posted by charging_rhinos
Build a bike you can ride, like a Canfield The One. Don't use narrow XC bars. If you have never ridden a true 63.5 HTA DH sled, you will have quite the learning curve....especially something with such a high BB. You will need to be a master at cornering technique or this geometry will frustrate you. Good luck and maybe do some research on geometry and what all the numbers mean.
Aedubber is always like that, don't take it personally. People are just trying to help you get a bike you will be happy with, even if they are a bit blunt about it.
If you want to do singletrack with it too, have a look at 180mm FR bikes with full length seat tubes. You won't compromise much on the downs, but going up will be a lot more pleasant.
If you can, try and rent a DH bike at a bike park first, it will help you know what you're getting into. People have run droppers on their DH bikes and placed in world cup races, so its not as if it isn't done, it's just that pedalling a full on DH bike uphill is really going to suck either way. You might as well nix the dropper and just walk. You will be less tired when you get to the top and will consequently get more runs in, trust me.
As for the bars, you will probably run a much shorter stem on your DH/FR bike than your trail bike, so longer bars will fit better. You can always cut them down if you change your mind.
So you all recommend I look at a 7inch / 180mm AM bike rather then a DH "Sled".
I figured I could take most of the parts list (above) and plant it on most AM frames too.
I need to have enough energy to ride safely uphill on gnarly trails about 5 miles just to get to the 5 mile DH run. The DH runs lead out into 8 miles of scenic flowing single track so I figured I'd enjoy that too.
I have a nice trail bike with 140mm that I ride on single track and the trails and have tried the down hill runs a few times in my area but it needs a much more cushy bike to soak up the hits. I made it fine but it wasn't so much fun picking the tame lines and not going big.
Yeah, these bike have geometry and travel to handle the dh aspect but with the ability to climb. We're just trying to let you know what would be the best tool for the job, not the only tool. I assume you are going to be dropping serious coin on your bike and buyers remorse sucks.
Do do I need to start a new thread in the AM forum? lol
I gave you my advice and i personally feel its the right advice from the description your giving me .Im not going to get into details but however you take my reply is your problem not mine , so rather being an arrogant tool , why dont you have a seat , sip on some stfu , and listen to good advice . I am not speaking as a know it all , i am speaking from EXPERIENCE .. I really did want to help you and give you some over sight but i wont waste my time .Have a nice day and goodluck .
You dont need to start multiple threads, you need to get a clue first .
aedubber, bro, I didn't actually object to your reply at all, I am sorry for accidentally including you with the other troll comments above.
I do hear your advice, and respect your opinion.
The jabbers who followed your reply to taint me instead of advise me, are the ones who I don't appreciate.
Originally Posted by aedubber
Last edited by Trail_Blazer; 07-20-2013 at 06:30 PM.
Re: DH Bike Build Question
The full blown dh frame , will not want to turn at slow trail speed , it will also be very hard to get the front end up. Not to mention it will be very hard to pedal uphill sitting way over the back of the bike .
Your looking for something in the big am / fr category not quite so long and slack . something like a banshee rune , transition blindside , Canfield the one , or a slope style type bike . yes you can ride the dh bike on an xc trail , but is it fun ? Not really , the bike will not be playful at all. its a lot easier and imo its more enjoyable to ride a shorter travel bike if you are going to be pedaling a lot and not shuttling constantly. There isn't many trails you can't ride on 6 inch bike that you can on a 8 inch bike.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
schristie11, if you want to get some of you desire and some of what you really need you should look at a Ruckus 7.
No problem man , seeing that you enjoy climbs you want something that will do it good but also wont be too slack .The problem with DH sleds is that they are meant to be fully pinned in them to actually appreciate what it can do. One of my previous downhill bikes i took it out locally for shits n giggles , trails are filled with ups and downs and rocks roots and steeps ... The DH bike felt like complete shit , turned so slow , heavy , sucked pedaling , and was terrible .. Mind you this was also going down some singletrack ..
Now if your at a bike park every weekend and have a lift service then yes get a DH bike otherwise no.
I will recommend the Knolly Chilcoltin , i had one built up with the best of the best and it was beefy . As a climber you would appreciate the 4x4 suspension and be surprised at how little effort it takes to climb , the hype is real about that frame . I suck at climbing and i was climbing things that i never would of on a bike when i had it . It can handle bike parks as well , i had it at Plattekill and it held up just fine with a 180mm fork ... People that know Plattekill will tell you that its raw natural crazy shale steep rocky mountain. Whats really good about the Knolly as well is that you can set it up as a 150-180mm bike and it will handle it so you have different choices .You can use any rear shock on it as well as there are no stupid proprietary parts on it , customer service is great , and the bike is just badASSS... I would say anything from 160mm-180mm would be just perfect for you , get a Reverb dropper post and your set man ..
Take a peek in the Knolly section of the forums , there is plenty of proof of videos and pictures there to show you what it can handle down and up .. The bike is actually too much for some people , its that good
Here was my Knolly:
Trek Slash / Remedy
GT Distortion / Force
KONA PROCESS 153
SP ENDURO EXPERT EVO (ooh)
They all look good to this noob. haha
Last edited by Trail_Blazer; 07-20-2013 at 09:33 PM.
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