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  1. #1
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    Bottom bracket help

    So far Iíve changed my pedals and cranks which did need replacing but I still have creaking. Can someone tell me what tool I need to get this thing out? I have no idea what size thing or even what itís called. Iím guessing the non drive side is supposed to have splines like the drive side. Someone may have put it back together missing that part? Iím also guessing once itís out Iíll find part numbers for replacing it. If someone knows what the part number may be in advance that would be a huge help.


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  2. #2
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    That is an older 'square taper' bottom-bracket, so you need a square taper bottom-bracket tool ;0)

    You remove both cranks then unscrew both the bottom-bracket and the lock-ring on the other side. The lock-ring has to be there, the bearing cannot stay in place without it.

    Be aware that one side is a reverse thread, you unscrew it clockwise. The left side is a normal thread but the right side is reverse threaded.

  3. #3
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    Do I need a special tool for the lock ring?


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  4. #4
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    The lock ring is the thing with the splines?


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  5. #5
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    Yeah, those splines on on the lock ring. I recently switched over the square taper spindle and bottom bracket on a Framed Minnesota. I needed a crank puller (which you apparently already have) and a Bottom Bracket Removal tool (pictured below). It was a pretty straightforward process, although I paid close attention to the spacers included with the new bottom bracket (GXP/X5) to maintain the chainline, and the recommended torque.

    Park makes a very nice bottom bracket tool, but I cheaped out a little.


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michaelsvx View Post
    The lock ring is the thing with the splines?
    Both sides are splined and use the same tool. From the outside you can't tell the difference between the BB and the lock-ring.

    If one side seems very tight, try the other. This is what the tool looks like:

    Name:  51xdKZWT7DL.jpg
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Size:  32.7 KB

    If the bearing is stuck you can use a crank bolt to hold the tool firmly in the splines and use a wench on the flats of the tool. It will come out.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the link. I just ordered one.


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  8. #8
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    There is no way I could try shopping for a new one till I get this out right. I just tried and there are a million different ones.


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  9. #9
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    There's 2 measurements you'll need. The first is the shell width (or shell length). You can measure your frame across where the BB (BB= bottom bracket) is. It is most likely 73mm. Older bikes and road bikes used to use a 68mm BB.

    The second measurement is the spindle length. With both crankarms removed, you'll need the length of the spindle that the crankarms mount onto. Both of these measurements are best/easiest to get using a caliper.

    Both of these measurements are very important and shouldn't be altered. It either won't work or will throw off your chain line.

    When you have removed the existing BB, there might be numbers laser etched into it with the measurements.

    You'll be looking to buy a "Square tapered bottom bracket. 73mm x ???".

    Ttyl, Fahn
    Last edited by LarryFahn; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:37 AM.
    Hubbard Bike Club

  10. #10
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    Thank you Larry, Iíll check those measurements ASAP.


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  11. #11
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    I got it out today and am a bit confused. First, it it Italian threaded? Second can I order by part number? My measurements donít jive with the part numbers found on eBay if someone can hook me up with a link and explain where Iím going wrong it would really help. Thanks


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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michaelsvx View Post
    I got it out today and am a bit confused. First, it it Italian threaded? Second can I order by part number? My measurements donít jive with the part numbers found on eBay if someone can hook me up with a link and explain where Iím going wrong it would really help. Thanks


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    Would this work?

    https://www.ebay.com/i/122553593852


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  13. #13
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    yes. just get the 73mm/123mm and you're golden...


  14. #14
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    $15. Order $35 of tools that you'll need and you'll get free shipping.

    | Jenson USA

    Ttyl, Fahn
    Hubbard Bike Club

  15. #15
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    Hold on just a minute. OP said he was trying to locate a creak, but didn't mention that the bottom bracket itself was bad.

    Does the old bottom bracket spin roughly or have play in the bearings? Bearing play is easier to detect with the cranks on, but if it's bad enough you can still grab the sealed cartridge unit in your fits and flex the end of the spindle with you other hand and see if it has any play in it (it shouldn't).

    If the BB spins smoothly, and doesn't have any play, then it doesn't need replacing, in which case, you just need to clean up the threads both on the BB and inside the frame.

    Whether replacing the BB with new, or re-using the old cleaned up unit, you'll want to grease all of the threads on the BB cups and inside the frame, as well as applying some grease where the inside of the non-drive side cup sits on the sealed cartridge unit. You'll want to use some thicker waterproof grease. Plenty of brands of bike specific waterproof grease out there (Phil Wood, Pedros, Finish line etc..), but honestly, they are $$ for the amount you get. You can get thick waterproof marine grease at the autoparts store that works just as well if not better for applications like bottom brackets, headsets, and suspension pivots where you want a thicker grease.

    Also, on some really stubborn BB/frame combos that just love to creak, you can put a couple wraps of teflon plumbers tape on the bottom bracket threads and it'll help quiet things down. You still want at least a light coating of grease when using the plumbers tape though, as the tape will be somewhat displaced when you tighten the BB, and you don't want dry thread contact.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker. View Post
    yes. just get the 73mm/123mm and you're golden...
    Ordered


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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarryFahn View Post
    $15. Order $35 of tools that you'll need and you'll get free shipping.

    | Jenson USA

    Ttyl, Fahn
    Wish I got this one as the one I got is from Israel


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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by twd953 View Post
    Hold on just a minute. OP said he was trying to locate a creak, but didn't mention that the bottom bracket itself was bad.

    Does the old bottom bracket spin roughly or have play in the bearings? Bearing play is easier to detect with the cranks on, but if it's bad enough you can still grab the sealed cartridge unit in your fits and flex the end of the spindle with you other hand and see if it has any play in it (it shouldn't).

    If the BB spins smoothly, and doesn't have any play, then it doesn't need replacing, in which case, you just need to clean up the threads both on the BB and inside the frame.

    Whether replacing the BB with new, or re-using the old cleaned up unit, you'll want to grease all of the threads on the BB cups and inside the frame, as well as applying some grease where the inside of the non-drive side cup sits on the sealed cartridge unit. You'll want to use some thicker waterproof grease. Plenty of brands of bike specific waterproof grease out there (Phil Wood, Pedros, Finish line etc..), but honestly, they are $$ for the amount you get. You can get thick waterproof marine grease at the autoparts store that works just as well if not better for applications like bottom brackets, headsets, and suspension pivots where you want a thicker grease.

    Also, on some really stubborn BB/frame combos that just love to creak, you can put a couple wraps of teflon plumbers tape on the bottom bracket threads and it'll help quiet things down. You still want at least a light coating of grease when using the plumbers tape though, as the tape will be somewhat displaced when you tighten the BB, and you don't want dry thread contact.
    I didnít get notifications for this post I just read this exact statement in another forum. I think this may be the issue. At least now I have new pedals, cranks, chainring and BB.


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  19. #19
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    New B.B. is installed and now itís time to tighten my cranks. Any tips on setting the proper torque. I donít want to crack anything or leave it loose to where I was in the beginning.


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  20. #20
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    Tighten the shit out of it and make sure you don't round out the 8mm bolt. Ttyl, Fahn
    Hubbard Bike Club

  21. #21
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    Thank you to all who replied. I took it for a spin Saturday and itís as quiet as a mouse


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  22. #22
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    After a good ride on it, go back and tighten the shit out of those bolts again. They will be a little loose, maybe a 1/4 turn.

    People bitch about square taper Bb's wearing out. If you keep those 8mm bolts tight, they'll last for years. Once a month double check them and you'll be good for a while.

    Ttyl, Fahn
    Hubbard Bike Club

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarryFahn View Post
    ...People bitch about square taper Bb's ...
    once upon a time it was all we had and we were just fine then...


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