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  1. #1
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    2011 Turner DHR Build - GO-RIDE.com

    Turner DW DHR Build

    This is a build I've been working on for a while. I usually build functional but quality DH bikes, but this year I decided to build something a little over the top. This build actually started at the 2010 Interbike Tradeshow with an amazing test ride on the 2011 Turner DHR. I rode a few trails that I am very familiar with and have raced a number of times each. Over the years I've tested at least 20 to 30 different DH bikes on these same trails. To date the 2011 DHR was the most amazing bike I have ridden on those trails.

    Two things impressed me most about this bike:
    1. First, was how well it carried speed through hard square edge impacts. The kind of impacts that slow most bikes down a lot and often lead to flat tires. The 2011 DHR handles these better than any DH bike I've ever ridden before.
    2. Second, was its ability to follow the fall-line of the trail. So many other bikes require going around certain obstacles on these trails, but the DHR was perfectly happy to just go over them allowing me to take the straightest line possible.

    How about a pic:


    So, on to the build...
    Frame: 2011 Turner DHR - Black Ano, Medium
    Shock: X-Fusion Vector HLR - 9.5 x 3.0
    Spring: RCS Ti - 350 x 3.0
    Fork: 2011 Rock Shox Boxxer World Cup
    Headset: Cane Creek AngleSet - .5 degree steeper cup = .8 degrees actual due to the small Head Tube
    Bars: ENVE Carbon DH - cut to 30"
    Stem: Sunline Direct Mount - 50mm
    Grips: LizardSkins Peaty - gold Go-Ride.com clamps
    Brakes: Shimano XTR Trail - 180mm rotors
    Post: Thompson Elite - 30.9
    Saddle: Tioga Spyder BMX
    Cranks: Shimano Saint - 83mm x 165mm
    Guide: E13 - LG1
    Ring: E13 Guide Ring - 36T
    Pedals: Shimano XTR Trail
    Shifter: Shimano Saint - 9spd
    Derailleur: Shimano Saint - SS cage
    Chain: Shimano XTRCassette: Shimano Ultegra 11-25
    Hubs: Hope Pro II - 20mm Front / 12x150mm Rear
    Rims: DT Swiss FR600
    Spokes: DT Swiss Competition - Black
    Tires: Maxxis Highroller DH 3C
    Tubes: generic mid-weight 2.5
    Bling:
    1. About 50 Ti bolts including shock bolts
    2. Go-ride FFB (Factory Frame Bumpers) for fork to frame protection
    3. Go-ride FFP (Factory Frame Protector) on drive side chain & seat stays

    Weight: 36.8 lbs

    Future Plans:
    1. That's the wheelset off last year's bike. I plan on building a set with NoTubes Flow Rims for race day - .6 lb savings
    2. May run ESI silicone grips after I get my bar width dialed in - 2oz savings
    3. Will run Maxxis Minion DHF EXO 3C tires at select events - 1.75 lbs savings4. I will be testing a few additional shocks on this ride: Cane Creek Double Barrel, Elka Stage 5, and Fox RC4. These are all out of the GO-RIDE Demo Program.


    More pics:

    Enve bars, Cane Creek AngleSet, XTR Trail brakes, and the worlds most uncomfortable seat


    X-Fusion Vector, Ti spring & shock bolts, E13 guide, Saint cranks, XTR Trail pedals, just under the seat stay is some Go-Ride FFP frame protection


    Saint SS derailleur, Ultegra 11-25 cassette, Shimano 2-piece 180mm rotors


    Ti rotor & brake bolts, Aluminum heatsink brake pads...crazy


    Full view of the non-drive size. What, no close up of the linkage? I'll work on it.


    More Ti bolts and XTR Trail bling


    That's all for now...comments welcome
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  2. #2
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    Amazing work as usual Scott, I can't wait until the day I can call you and have you build me another DH bike.

  3. #3
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    Where can I get the Go-ride FFB (Factory Frame Bumpers) for fork to frame protection?
    I looked on the site, but couldn't find them there.
    Thanks!

  4. #4
    Commit or eat sh!t
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    Beautiful!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fixbikeguy
    Where can I get the Go-ride FFB (Factory Frame Bumpers) for fork to frame protection?
    I looked on the site, but couldn't find them there.
    Thanks!
    We mostly use them on DH bike builds. Give us a call or send an email to sales@go-ride.com and we'll get you out some. The FFP tape is super cool. It's a heavy duty rubber tape (about 1/8" thick) that is very moldable, durable and quite.
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  6. #6
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    Amazing build!

    Making me wish I bought my frame from you guys instead of going local. Been waiting on my Black medium about a month now.

    What are you running for Ti bolts and where did you get them? Those factory frame bumpers are also pretty sweet, are those available at go-ride?

  7. #7
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    You lucky boy.
    Do you feel lucky? do you, punk?- Dirty Harry

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by charvey9
    Amazing build!

    Making me wish I bought my frame from you guys instead of going local. Been waiting on my Black medium about a month now.

    What are you running for Ti bolts and where did you get them? Those factory frame bumpers are also pretty sweet, are those available at go-ride?
    Maybe we can help you with a frame next time. For now we do have amazing deals on build kits. We have a lot of options to choose from. Best way is to send us an email with the type of build you want and we'll reply with recommended components.

    We do sell both the fram bumpers and rubberized chainstay tape. They aren't listed on our site as we mostly install them on bikes we build, but if you contact sales@go-ride.com we will get them out to you.

    The Ti bolt list is long:
    Stem = 8 bolts
    Fork = 7 bolts
    Shock hardware = 2
    Cable guides = 2
    Brake mounts = 4
    Brake rotors = 12
    Brake levers = 2
    Shifter mount = 1
    Thomson Post = 2 + barrels (not installed yet)
    Derailleur = 3
    Seat Collar = 1
    Headset = 1 aluminum
    Washers = 12

    We are working on having somewhat reasonably priced kits for things like rotors, forks, & brakes. We'll post something soon.
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  9. #9
    Locs on Spokez
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    So JEALOUS.
    Ground Steeze. @iggy_strbac

  10. #10
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    Nice job Scott....Looking forward to the GO-ride series !

  11. #11
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    Such a sick bike! I would do terrible nasty things to it!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gollub01
    Nice job Scott....Looking forward to the GO-ride series !
    We're not having as many races this year, but the Super Ds will all be good courses, so there's the chance to race twice each event.
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  13. #13
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    Very nice! Be interested to hear the feedback on the shock, not read many proper reviews of it.

    Also, curious about the choice of brakes...was this about weight savings?

  14. #14
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    I nutted so hard there was nothing left to nut out...

    Holy shnikes.

    Speechless.
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  15. #15
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    Damn... That is a sexy asssssssss machine. That frame is $$$.

  16. #16
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    absolutely gorgeous

    a review on the XTR brakes woul be lovely too

    try sticking on some BOS up front and in the rear

  17. #17
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    Whats the weight savings with the Ti hardware compared to the stock hardware?
    And what would you estimate the cost is for it?

  18. #18
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    Very nice, I cant get over those saddles. They look like some kind of torture device.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iceman2058
    Very nice! Be interested to hear the feedback on the shock, not read many proper reviews of it.

    Also, curious about the choice of brakes...was this about weight savings?
    Both Krispy and I tested an X-Fusion coil on our Reign X bikes last summer and it was very impressive from a DH point of view. Super plush, but still great bottoming control. I'm really looking forward to running it, but of course it's snowing again in SLC, UT. Kris is running one this weeking in Bootleg for the NV state champs. He's racing a Giant Reign (modified to 170mm) with an X-Fusion coil shock and 170mm X-Fusion fork. So far he got 3rd in Cat 1 in the Super D on that bike and will be running the same bike for DH today.

    The brakes are somewhat about weight savings, but they are also CRAZY POWERFUL. The last two seasons I've run Avid Elixir CRs and 185 rotors with no problems, and the XTR Trails have a lot more power. I'll find out if they can take the heat soon.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tree
    Whats the weight savings with the Ti hardware compared to the stock hardware?
    And what would you estimate the cost is for it?
    Ti hardware weight savings was about 120 grams and came out to about $2 per gram, which is cheaper than good Ti springs. Certainly not necessary, but should be totally functional.

    This bike is kind of a show piece for the shop, but will be ridden just as hard as any other DH bike I've had in the past. Everything is still very functional. I could have gone lighter with cranks, shifter, derailleur, post, grips, rims and spokes.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by illini
    Very nice, I cant get over those saddles. They look like some kind of torture device.
    The seat is sort of a reminder to me to, "STAND UP AND PEDAL YOU ______". It's cheap, very light, and seems durable. The big problem is that its very slippery. I've got a couple of ideas for adding some grips to it at very low additional weight.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com
    Maybe we can help you with a frame next time. For now we do have amazing deals on build kits. We have a lot of options to choose from. Best way is to send us an email with the type of build you want and we'll reply with recommended components.

    We do sell both the fram bumpers and rubberized chainstay tape. They aren't listed on our site as we mostly install them on bikes we build, but if you contact sales@go-ride.com we will get them out to you.

    The Ti bolt list is long:
    Stem = 8 bolts
    Fork = 7 bolts
    Shock hardware = 2
    Cable guides = 2
    Brake mounts = 4
    Brake rotors = 12
    Brake levers = 2
    Shifter mount = 1
    Thomson Post = 2 + barrels (not installed yet)
    Derailleur = 3
    Seat Collar = 1
    Headset = 1 aluminum
    Washers = 12

    We are working on having somewhat reasonably priced kits for things like rotors, forks, & brakes. We'll post something soon.
    Thanks for the info. I've already got my build kit, which includes some bits I got from go-ride:

    2011 DHR Album

    Your 36lbs is going to be tough to beat using a Fox 40, but I'm hoping to weigh in under 38lbs. I'm definately going to put in an order for those frame bumpers and tape. That stuff looks pretty cool. I'll also keep checking for some Ti hardware. I'm always looking for upgrades or things to tinker with to get my bike fix when I'm working too much and don't have the time to ride.

  23. #23
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    36.8Lbs seems pretty heavy considering your frame is about 9.5lbs according to Turner's website. Do you know what the real world weight of the frame is? My M9 frame is about 11.4lbs and with a fox 40 my complete bike is 37.85lbs.

  24. #24
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    That's just about the most badass DH bike I've ever seen..

  25. #25
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    very nice build !

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    I nutted so hard there was nothing left to nut out...

    Holy shnikes.

    Speechless.
    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo
    The internet sounds like a tough place to ride.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwdrums00
    36.8Lbs seems pretty heavy considering your frame is about 9.5lbs according to Turner's website. Do you know what the real world weight of the frame is? My M9 frame is about 11.4lbs and with a fox 40 my complete bike is 37.85lbs.
    When I weighed our LG with a 450LB spring it was 10.5lbs I think. That was about 3 months ago. just check it was 11.3
    Last edited by ianjenn; 02-20-2011 at 05:08 PM.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwdrums00
    36.8Lbs seems pretty heavy considering your frame is about 9.5lbs according to Turner's website. Do you know what the real world weight of the frame is? My M9 frame is about 11.4lbs and with a fox 40 my complete bike is 37.85lbs.
    What's the build you are running at 37.85 lbs?

    The Medium DHR weighs about 10.5 lbs or just a bit lighter. Keep in mind I weighed my bike complete and RTR (Ready To Race). That includes pedals, full DH casing tires, DH worthy tubes, and a chainstay protector. I also have a shifter, derailleur and cranks that can take a full season of DH abuse.

    If I changed a few things like:
    Flow rims, DHF 2.5 EXO casing tires, tubeless, foam grips, XO drive train, and Descendant cranks the bike would be in the 32 lb range. I weighed it as it is in the pictures, but with DHF 2.5 EXO tires setup Tubeless and it was 34.5 lbs. Once I get Flow rims it will be in the 33s with EXO tires tubeless. So, there's all sorts of weighs to get crazy light weights, but they usually leave you with a bike that is not truly race ready on a real DH course.
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  29. #29
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    i just noticed the bars..

    ive always been against carbon bars.. but those are hard to resist.

    long enough to cut, killer graphics, and enve seems to have carbon sorted( i did once state if i went carbon on bars, i would most likely go with easton first, but those enves.. DAMN!)

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com
    What's the build you are running at 37.85 lbs?

    The Medium DHR weighs about 10.5 lbs or just a bit lighter. Keep in mind I weighed my bike complete and RTR (Ready To Race). That includes pedals, full DH casing tires, DH worthy tubes, and a chainstay protector. I also have a shifter, derailleur and cranks that can take a full season of DH abuse.

    If I changed a few things like:
    Flow rims, DHF 2.5 EXO casing tires, tubeless, foam grips, XO drive train, and Descendant cranks the bike would be in the 32 lb range. I weighed it as it is in the pictures, but with DHF 2.5 EXO tires setup Tubeless and it was 34.5 lbs. Once I get Flow rims it will be in the 33s with EXO tires tubeless. So, there's all sorts of weighs to get crazy light weights, but they usually leave you with a bike that is not truly race ready on a real DH course.
    Aren't you the one running XTR cross country/trail brakes and pedals?

    My current build:

    2011 Intense M9 medium works blue with CCDB 400lb steel spring (11.36Lbs.)
    2011 Fox 40 Rc2 Kashima coat with Ti bolts and spring.
    SRAM X0 10sp shifter with Ti bolt.
    SRAM X0 10sp short cage derailleur.
    SRAM Red 11-26 10sp cassette (168grams.)
    SRAM 1091 10sp Chain (took about 4 links out, 242grams.)
    Industry Nine DH wheels laced to Mavic 721's (2150grams without rim strips. Rim strips add 155grams plus 300grams in stans sealant.)
    Formula The One brakes with ALL Ti bolts. 203mm/180mm rotors with Ti bolts.
    E13 LG1+ guide 32-36tooth back plate. Ti bolts on ISCG 05 mount.
    Maxxis Minion 2.5" 3C DH, DOUBLE PLY, WIRE BEAD tires front and rear.
    Thomson Masterpiece seat post with Ti bolts and barrels.
    Thomson seat post clamp with Ti bolt.
    Twenty6 Ti pedals (265grams.)
    Shimano Saint M815 165mm cranks.
    Race Face single 36T Chain ring.
    Cane Creek Ti spring 3.00 x 450lb.
    Rear shock bolt are Ti.
    Point one DM nickel stem with ALL Ti bolts.
    Point one time capsule steer tube spacer/integrated top cap with alloy bolt.
    Enve carbon 31.5" DH bars cut to 780mm
    SDG Ti Fly-C saddle (about to be replaced by WTB Silverado Carbon saddle, saves 62 grams.)
    3M film protection on the entire frame, over a half pound.


    Current weight 37.85Lbs

    I ride Northstar and raced on a similar combination for over 2 years on my previous M6 without any issues. I also tip the scales at 205lbs.
    Last edited by Dwdrums00; 02-20-2011 at 06:17 PM.

  31. #31
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    nice ride but I still like my Sunday

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy Jim
    nice ride but I still like my Sunday
    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo
    The internet sounds like a tough place to ride.

  33. #33
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    Scott@Go-Ride.com, a fine-looking steed. Is this the Parrish Creek Super D Race Bike?

    JMH

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMH
    Scott@Go-Ride.com, a fine-looking steed. Is this the Parrish Creek Super D Race Bike?

    JMH
    Only if someone else is going to run a DH bike. The 1 mile-ish climb to the descent will be pretty tough on a DH rig, but the next 30 min. will be a riot. Otherwise I'll ride my Reign X with EXO casing tires.
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwdrums00
    Aren't you the one running XTR cross country/trail brakes and pedals?

    My current build:

    2011 Intense M9 medium works blue with CCDB 400lb steel spring (11.36Lbs.)
    2011 Fox 40 Rc2 Kashima coat with Ti bolts and spring.
    SRAM X0 10sp shifter with Ti bolt.
    SRAM X0 10sp short cage derailleur.
    SRAM Red 11-26 10sp cassette (168grams.)
    SRAM 1091 10sp Chain (took about 4 links out, 242grams.)
    Industry Nine DH wheels laced to Mavic 721's (2150grams without rim strips. Rim strips add 155grams plus 300grams in stans sealant.)
    Formula The One brakes with ALL Ti bolts. 203mm/180mm rotors with Ti bolts.
    E13 LG1+ guide 32-36tooth back plate. Ti bolts on ISCG 05 mount.
    Maxxis Minion 2.5" 3C DH, DOUBLE PLY, WIRE BEAD tires front and rear.
    Thomson Masterpiece seat post with Ti bolts and barrels.
    Thomson seat post clamp with Ti bolt.
    Twenty6 Ti pedals (265grams.)
    Shimano Saint M815 165mm cranks.
    Race Face single 36T Chain ring.
    Cane Creek Ti spring 3.00 x 450lb.
    Rear shock bolt are Ti.
    Point one DM nickel stem with ALL Ti bolts.
    Point one time capsule steer tube spacer/integrated top cap with alloy bolt.
    Enve carbon 31.5" DH bars cut to 780mm
    SDG Ti Fly-C saddle (about to be replaced by WTB Silverado Carbon saddle, saves 62 grams.)
    3M film protection on the entire frame, over a half pound.


    Current weight 37.85Lbs

    I ride Northstar and raced on a similar combination for over 2 years on my previous M6 without any issues. I also tip the scales at 205lbs.
    Very nice build! We just did one similar to that except with a Chrome Blue M9 and polished links. The weights between our bikes seam very similar taking into account the difference in weight between the frames and forks.

    Formula The One brakes were on my list until I rode the XTR Trails...very powerful. I've run Elixir CRs the last two years with no problems and they don't pack the power of the XTR Trail. My main reason for picking the XTRs is that the levers are very short and sit very close to the bars.

    The XTR Trail pedals are light, but stil 100 grms heavier than Twenty6 Ti pedals. I have a set of older 26s also, but don't use them for DH. Very nice quality.
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  36. #36
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    I would like to hear your opinion on the Xfusion shock after a few months on it.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com
    Very nice build! We just did one similar to that except with a Chrome Blue M9 and polished links. The weights between our bikes seam very similar taking into account the difference in weight between the frames and forks.

    Formula The One brakes were on my list until I rode the XTR Trails...very powerful. I've run Elixir CRs the last two years with no problems and they don't pack the power of the XTR Trail. My main reason for picking the XTRs is that the levers are very short and sit very close to the bars.

    The XTR Trail pedals are light, but stil 100 grms heavier than Twenty6 Ti pedals. I have a set of older 26s also, but don't use them for DH. Very nice quality.
    Thanks, your build is nice as well (except for the X fusion shock.) The new XTR brakes really have that much power? How is the fade on long DH courses? My buddy has the elixir CR's and feels the same way about them. I am about a pounds lighter overall be who is counting I would like to hear your opinion on the 2011 WC boxxer down the road.

  38. #38
    JMH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com
    Only if someone else is going to run a DH bike. The 1 mile-ish climb to the descent will be pretty tough on a DH rig, but the next 30 min. will be a riot. Otherwise I'll ride my Reign X with EXO casing tires.
    A mile long climb is enough time lost to put a DH bike rider out of contention... or IS it? It would be fun catching people but I don't think a win would be possible. Pretty much giving Krispy a 5 minute head start at the top of the descent.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwdrums00
    Thanks, your build is nice as well (except for the X fusion shock.) The new XTR brakes really have that much power? How is the fade on long DH courses? My buddy has the elixir CR's and feels the same way about them. I am about a pounds lighter overall be who is counting I would like to hear your opinion on the 2011 WC boxxer down the road.
    I'll tell you this, the X-Fusion is worthy of the build. I have a few shocks: CCDB, Elka 5, Fox RC4, and the X-Fusion is very worthy. As the owner of a DH bike shop it's part of my job to test new equipment. X-Fusion has been sending us lots of shocks and forks to test and so far they have all been excellent.

    The last two seasons I've raced a 2010 Boxxer WC. I liked it a lot, but it did have some personal mods. The stock 2011 seems to a bit better than my custom tuned 2010.
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMH
    A mile long climb is enough time lost to put a DH bike rider out of contention... or IS it? It would be fun catching people but I don't think a win would be possible. Pretty much giving Krispy a 5 minute head start at the top of the descent.
    It's not a steep climb. I've ridden my DH bike on it before, but trying to race it will be tough. With some DHF EXO tires and a dropper post it would be close. I know I can go a lot faster on the descent in the rough sections, but the Reign X may be faster in the tighter sections.
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  41. #41
    GAME ON!
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    this thread is nsfw.

    excuse me, sir, might you have kleenex and some clean pants?

  42. #42
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    That build is SICK!

    Okay, so now that I've seen this build I want to see build shots of the other buggies. I know my wife is loving her ASR5.

    Cheers,
    Andy
    Disclaimer: I'm a fan-boi for Jenson USA.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlyontwo
    That build is SICK!

    Okay, so now that I've seen this build I want to see build shots of the other buggies. I know my wife is loving her ASR5.

    Cheers,
    Andy
    The Yeti Big Top is nice, but nothing outstanding by XC Weight Weenie standards. It's my winter snow bike. The other two are solid with the Reign X being as light as 30.5 lbs RTR, but not as kitted out as the DH bike.

    I also have really liked my ASR5. Got it last May and rode it more than an other single bike in a long time. I ride at least everyother day and the 5 was my go to bike for my morning rides at sunrise and super d races. I think it will be replaced with a 5 Spot this spring to try something new.
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  44. #44
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    Anyone interested in info on the frame bumpers, and protective tape check it out here - http://www.go-ride.com/CategoryProdu...IKE+PROTECTION

  45. #45
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    I have to admit, I hated the DHR DW when it first came out. But this one looks damn nice!
    I like rice.

  46. #46
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    Wow!!! I havn't been a big fan of that frame since it went DW but that build looks screaming. Nice job.

  47. #47
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    I felt the same way the first time I saw the frame. I wasn't sure if I liked the way it looked or not. In the end I picked it because of the way it rode.
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  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com
    I felt the same way the first time I saw the frame. I wasn't sure if I liked the way it looked or not. In the end I picked it because of the way it rode.
    Thats funny. I was trying to decide between the Banshee Legend MkII, Pivot Phoenix, and new Commencal Supreme DH. Then I saw the 2011 Turner DHR frame and my jaw dropped. To me it is the best looking new bike on the market.

    The more I research I did on the bike, the more I liked it. Being hand made here in Portland was also a bonus. NOW...if they could just get one back to the local dealer in Portland I'll be a happy camper.

  49. #49
    GAME ON!
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    i've always been a fan of how dw designs his bikes.

  50. #50
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    Hey Scott,

    I'm thinking of upgrading the seatpost clamp to a quickrelease. Do you know the size i would need for the seatpost QR? Is it 34.9mm?

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBAlex
    Hey Scott,

    I'm thinking of upgrading the seatpost clamp to a quickrelease. Do you know the size i would need for the seatpost QR? Is it 34.9mm?
    Yes, 34.9 or 35.0 depending on the manufacture is the correct size.
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  52. #52
    moaaar shimz
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  53. #53
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    Very nice build!

    Where did you get the Ti bolts from Scott?

  54. #54
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    sick bike except for that saddle. looks painful.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    sick bike except for that saddle. looks painful.
    Yah, its my "STAND UP AND PEDAL YOU _______" saddle. It may not make the cut on practice/fun days.
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  56. #56
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    i dont think you could have built it any nicer than you did.

  57. #57
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    Hey Scott, looks like I'm running the same shock bolts as you in my DHR. Did you use loctite or copper ti prep?

    Cheers.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krout
    Hey Scott, looks like I'm running the same shock bolts as you in my DHR. Did you use loctite or copper ti prep?

    Cheers.
    I used ti prep on the front bolt, but due to the rotation of the link against the rear shock bolt I used a lot of blue loctite.
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  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by eride1
    i dont think you could have built it any nicer than you did.
    Thanks, I'm pretty stoked with the way it came out. I will be using it to test some other suspension products as the summer comes around and allows me to ride DH regularly.
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  60. #60
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    I tried the EXO 3c's to save weight as well, but the tire pressure has to be 5-9psi higher to prevent destroying the rim with dents (vs a 2-ply minnion) that I couldn't get the traction I was used too. But I too run a Stan's Flow rim, only on an American Classic 150mm thru hub...crazy light sub 850g. I've run it for two entire seasons, going on a third and it's still in good shape.

    Weight Dumping suggestions:

    #1 RS Vivid Air...Then go to a Selle SLR 115g road saddle, drop another 35-50g. You can shave more weight by doing a Thomson Masterpiece or even a carbon post...another 50-60grams. Dump the saint shifter for an XTR, -10-15g, 9 speed Dura Ace 11-21 cassette will drop another -30g and allow you a smaller ring up front -10-30g. Like I said an American Classic Hub 150mm hub on the back dumps -100g, AC 20mm front -50g. Go to a KMC X-10 chain -39g. Gatorbrake 180mm ti rotors -40g. Finally go to a 2.3 high roller in the back for raceday, drop another -100g. Ti rear axle and Full Ti bolt kit + an E.13 LG1+ will dump even more. I just found you another 1.5lbs approx! I used to go so far as to run a Dura-Ace 9 speed rear derailleur. It'll last a few races but eventually blow up. I saw the Athertons mod a XTR 970 crankset to fit 83mm spacing, essentially cutting off the pre-load bearings which held up I guess -300g. Now where talking over 2lbs saved and some super weight weenie *****. It'll all hold up, just depends on home much finesse and smooth a rider is. It's just gotta last 2 minutes or so!
    Last edited by MqtRider; 02-24-2011 at 12:14 AM.

  61. #61
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    Thanks man, awesome rig by the way.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by V-Dub
    Anyone interested in info on the frame bumpers, and protective tape check it out here - http://www.go-ride.com/CategoryProdu...IKE+PROTECTION
    Done. Glad I came across this post... just ordered via the phone.

    Cheers

  63. #63
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    Just ordered some frame protection... thanks! Glad I came across this thread.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com
    Maybe we can help you with a frame next time. For now we do have amazing deals on build kits. We have a lot of options to choose from. Best way is to send us an email with the type of build you want and we'll reply with recommended components.

    We do sell both the fram bumpers and rubberized chainstay tape. They aren't listed on our site as we mostly install them on bikes we build, but if you contact sales@go-ride.com we will get them out to you.

    The Ti bolt list is long:
    Stem = 8 bolts
    Fork = 7 bolts
    Shock hardware = 2
    Cable guides = 2
    Brake mounts = 4
    Brake rotors = 12
    Brake levers = 2
    Shifter mount = 1
    Thomson Post = 2 + barrels (not installed yet)
    Derailleur = 3
    Seat Collar = 1
    Headset = 1 aluminum
    Washers = 12

    We are working on having somewhat reasonably priced kits for things like rotors, forks, & brakes. We'll post something soon.
    Are you worried about the Ti brake or stem bolts at all? I've been thinking about using some on my bike, but I'm worried about failure.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by fixbikeguy
    Are you worried about the Ti brake or stem bolts at all? I've been thinking about using some on my bike, but I'm worried about failure.
    I'm not worried about the brake bolts at all. The handlebar clamp is no worry either, but it is possible in a hard enough crash to damage the stem to crown bolts.
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  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com
    I'm not worried about the brake bolts at all. The handlebar clamp is no worry either, but it is possible in a hard enough crash to damage the stem to crown bolts.
    So I should go ahead and use my Ti bolts then. I've just heard rumors and they make me nervous. If anyone has proof of them breaking, I'd like to see pics.

  67. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by fixbikeguy
    So I should go ahead and use my Ti bolts then. I've just heard rumors and they make me nervous. If anyone has proof of them breaking, I'd like to see pics.
    Hollow Ti:



    But there shouldn't be a problem if they're not hollow.

  68. #68
    JMH
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    I've never broken a Ti fastener in 15 years of using them. Never tried a hollow one, don't think I will.

    JMH

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMH
    I've never broken a Ti fastener in 15 years of using them. Never tried a hollow one, don't think I will.

    JMH
    I'm not so sure if Ti bolts on a road bike counts as testing.
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  70. #70
    JMH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com
    I'm not so sure if Ti bolts on a road bike counts as testing.
    I was talking specifically about MTB but I appreciate the spirit of the friendly jab, mr. Sheen.

    I have probably been riding Ti bolts on road bikes for more like twenty years, but I can't really remember that far back... help me out Scott, did they have bikes 20 years ago? It's all so fuzzy.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMH
    I was talking specifically about MTB but I appreciate the spirit of the friendly jab, mr. Sheen.

    I have probably been riding Ti bolts on road bikes for more like twenty years, but I can't really remember that far back... help me out Scott, did they have bikes 20 years ago? It's all so fuzzy.
    I'll have to blame my comments on the booze, which by the way was flowing (mostly as Margaritas) at last nights Go-ride SuperCross Live party. Another great SX race. The first half of this season has been really amazing, but that's for another post.
    Last edited by Scott@GO-RIDE.com; 02-28-2011 at 10:44 AM.
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  72. #72
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    Nice frame...can used for tyre 26x2,8

  73. #73
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    Beautiful bike & build!
    Where do you get the Ti bolts with the larger button heads, mounting your shock?
    I'd love to get one like that for the top mount of my '10 Reign X.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by indiecom
    Nice frame...can used for tyre 26x2,8
    I have no idea...does anyone even make a 2.8 tire anymore? All kidding aside the DHR is a race bike. I can't see ever needing anything bigger than a Maxxis 2.7 (measures 2.5) or a Kenda 2.5 in the back. I run Maxxis 2.5s (measure 2.3) or smaller depending on the course.
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  75. #75
    Working on my Drops
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    nm..
    Last edited by MTBAlex; 03-02-2011 at 09:44 PM.

  76. #76
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    How are the brakes holding up on longer descends? and can you take of the weird looking plastic fins on the calipers?

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christiaan
    How are the brakes holding up on longer descends? and can you take of the weird looking plastic fins on the calipers?
    The weird plastic fins are actually functional metal fins that dissipate heat from the pads so the brake doesn't fade. They allow you to use an XC brake on a downhill bike.

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