Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    165

    2010 66 RCV- No compression dampening?

    Got my hands on a 2010 66 RCV in great shape for a nice price locally. Start messing around with it and realize that there's no difference in compression weather it's turned to full hard or full soft. I call 'Zocchi CS and was told something to the effect of "yeah, it's a base model, the compression damper hardly has any affect on it..."
    Is this true? Has anyone been able to get the CV cart to do it's job or does everyone just go for the RC3?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    165
    really? awesome...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    14
    It's an open bath fork so if you're looking for more compression damping try changing the oil to 10wt on the compression side. The fork comes stock with 7.5wt oil in both the compression and rebound legs.

    You can also tune the end stroke ramp up by varying the oil height in each leg. Do a search on this board and you should be able to find some good information on how to tune this fork.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    165
    Put another check on the board for 'low oil from the factory'. Almost 100 mL low. Fork feels better now, although I filled it with some Fox 7.5 weight I had left over from my 44. I'm gonna get my hands on some 10wt and give that a try soon. Marz wanted almost 250 for the RC3 cart, so no thanks. As far as searching goes, trust me I did, but 66 isn't searchable and most of the 'Marzocchi RCV" threads are 66 vs 36 vs totem types. I'll keep looking.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    14
    Here's a post I saved with rebuild instructions and some advice regarding oil heights. I think it was originally made by the guy that was giving Marz technical advice a few years ago. The fork is very simple to work on, just take your time and it should be easy to play with.

    The only thing I will have for the 66 RCV will be a schematic not a tech manual. This fork is really simple to rebuild so I'll give you a blow by blow here.

    Since this is a pumping rod fork, all you have to do is remove the top caps. This will expose the spring or springs, remove.
    Now drain the fork by flipping it over. Pump it a few times.
    With the for flipped over you can remove the footnuts from the bottom with a 15mm socket.
    With these removed you can remove the lower casting.
    If you wanted to change the seals a special tool is needed for installation. So be careful here. You will need to remove the dust seal, then a clip, then the main oil seal.

    Once the seals have been reinstalled via a seal press tool, install the clip into the groove.
    Take the dust seals and slide them onto the stanchion tubes. This will help you reinstall the stanchions into the lower casting and seals without damaging the main oil seal. Grease the oil seal and dust wiper prior to installation of the stanchions

    With the stanchions installed into the lower casting, you can now attach the footnuts. You will need a long rod or use the spring to push the pumping rod thread up through the base of the casting. Attach each footnut and tighten to 15Nm (pretty f'n tight)
    With the foot nuts attached you can now add oil, 7.5wt fully synthetic oil.

    Pour oil into both sides of the fork. Fill it to about 3" from the top to start with. Now cycle the fork up and down to let the oil fill the lower assembly. Once this is done, let the fork sit for a few minutes to let the air seperate and float to the top. Now set the oil hieght.
    Set the oil hieght to 55mm from the top with the fork fully compressed. This is a good hieght but if you are a lighter rider you can go down in hieght to 60-65mm. This will give the fork a more linear spring rate once built up but it will bottom-out easier than the 55mm hieght. With the oil hieght set just extend it and add the springs and top caps.

Similar Threads

  1. how important is adjustable compression dampening?
    By Slyp Dawg in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-15-2008, 06:24 AM
  2. 55R - travel and compression dampening
    By 3viltoast3r in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-03-2008, 02:19 AM
  3. R7 Elite compression dampening adjustment?
    By Kendo in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-01-2006, 12:04 PM
  4. Compression dampening, not getting full travel
    By Jibby in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-25-2006, 02:23 PM
  5. Does "Platform Dampening" = low-speed compression dampening?
    By Octane in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-15-2006, 05:27 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •