Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast
Results 151 to 175 of 181
  1. #151
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by Birddog07 View Post
    Nice. They're lovely little bikes. I finally have a Epicon fork on the way, and I'm going to run it at 120mm, maybe 140mm. Picked up some Race Face cranks and a sweet looking green bar too.

    Next big upgrades would be some Avid Elixir 1 brakes probably when the stocks need new pads, maybe earlier cause I am a bit of a mod whore. Slightly better braking means I'll want some better tires to take full advantage, want some nice 2.2 inch Continental Trail Kings. Eventually I plan on going to a nice 1x10 setup, which means some nice new wheels a SRAM x5 components. Going to be riding 1x8 until then. I really don't ride up hills much, so it will be fine, since it's basically the gearing I use now.

    I see that DoySijib guy has basically the build I'm going for, although I'll be a little more budget minded.
    Running a longer fork then specced for the bike will screw up the designed geometry of the bike but will also void any warranty issue you may have with the frame.

    You may be able to get away with 120mm but 140mm Im pretty sure will void the warranty.

  2. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by Strife21 View Post
    Running a longer fork then specced for the bike will screw up the designed geometry of the bike but will also void any warranty issue you may have with the frame.

    You may be able to get away with 120mm but 140mm Im pretty sure will void the warranty.
    Well, I don't think I have a warranty anyways. This frame is the same as the Sortie, which use 120mm and 140mm forks no problem. I think I'll just go with 120mm though, since the rear is only 100mm and I don't want a huge difference in front/rear travel. Maybe I'll extend it to 140mm if I eventually get a new rear shock with a longer stroke (I think something like 7.5x2.25 would work, and give me 4.5 inches of rear travel instead of 4?)

    Anyways, finally got my fork in today though. I got sent a '14-'15 model when I ordered a '13-'14 (mainly for the colors), but this will look good too. I'm waiting on a Crane Creek 10 headset (basically the 40, but with plastic cap and star nut, which I have a new star nut anyways and the stock cap seems to be metal), and I picked up a 60mm 2010 Race Face Ride Stem for cheap from Jenson. Can't wait to install it all. The fork feels super light, yet very solid.

    I'm going to wait until I do my full 1x10 conversion to get the Race Face crank installed, which will be awesome. Meanwhile, I basically made my bike a 1x8 today. Replaced the front derailleur with a clamp on chain guide. Already had the bash guard and only used the middle 32T crank ring, so this just makes sense.

    Added some new bars and pedals too. I like the look and feel of the bars (which are about an inch wider than the stockers on both ends), but I'm not really feeling the pedals. Just way to bright and loud looking. I had white ones before, think I'll just go back to them.

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140814_200836202.jpg

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140814_200854072.jpg

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140814_200914060.jpg

  3. #153
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    Hey guys, so I'm finally getting around to try and install my new fork, but I'm having some issues with the headset. I'm talking about on the top and bottom of the frame's steer tube, there looks like what appear to be races from the old headset. Should these pieces hammer out so I can install my new headset, or should I just drop the new bearings in there because it really doesn't make a difference?

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140821_193319676.jpg

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140821_193331302.jpg

    I opened up my fork the other day and couldn't extend in to 120mm either. The damn pin is just too much of a pain and I didn't want to risk breaking my brand new fork. Oh well.

  4. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    if you're going to install a whole new set up like a sealed bearing type it should come with its own cups thus you'd have to take the old cups out with a special tool or just have your LBS do it they have the tools.

  5. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    Cups, that's what they're called. Yeah, I got a whole new Cane Creek. Do I really need a tool? They look like they just hammer out.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A1C9T7ACO5T769

    Looks like the perfect tool for the job (duh), but $20 to hammer some metal out seems kinda eh.

  6. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    I'm sure you'll figure out a way to hammer them out but pressing them in another story. Sealed headset is next on my list ,Go for it!

  7. #157
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    The new ones won't just sit in there and get tight when I button everything up?

  8. #158
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BCTJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    711
    Well, I decided to buy one of these even though nobody responded to me regarding the weight. I hope it doesn't weigh like a tank. I'm hoping to upgrade the components soon (as I raise the funds). First up, updating the rear shock. That coil shock looks really ineffective.

  9. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    you have to press them in

  10. #160
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by BCTJ View Post
    Well, I decided to buy one of these even though nobody responded to me regarding the weight. I hope it doesn't weigh like a tank. I'm hoping to upgrade the components soon (as I raise the funds). First up, updating the rear shock. That coil shock looks really ineffective.
    yeah the spring shock is heavy , so are the stock forks, brakes and wheel set, upgrade those and you'll be good.

  11. #161
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-gopr2149.jpgYour Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-gopr2150.jpgYour Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-gopr2154.jpgHaven't weighed my bike yet but it feels way lighter then when stock.
    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-gopr2148.jpgYour Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-gopr2153.jpgYour Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-gopr2152.jpg

  12. #162
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661 View Post
    you have to press them in
    Well, I guess I'll figure it out then. :/

  13. #163
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BCTJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    711
    Well, I took it out for a spin last night after putting it together and I found it to be quite a comfortable ride. And, it didn't feel all that heavy, even with the subpar components that I currently have. Actually, I found it more comfortable than the $1,000+ Specialized Camber which I rode last month in Park City. Not bad for a $500 bike. I guess we'll have to see how it holds up on the rough stuff once I go on the mountain though.

  14. #164
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    Needing some more heap with my headset guys. The pusher came today and I hammered out the stock cups, but my new Cane Creek headset is too small for my head tube.

    It doesn't look like I can hammer my headset in to the stock cups. Are there new cups I need to buy somewhere? My heatset fits perfectly on my steerer tube. I'm totally lost, I just want this to work already. :/

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140828_173819332.jpg

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140828_174218330_hdr.jpg

    At least my fork is 120mm now. Took it to the shop and asked the guy if he could do it. Even he had a hard time getting the damn pin in and out. Gave him $5 for doing it.

  15. #165
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    is the headset 1 1/8" , thats the size you need.

  16. #166
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    Yes. It fits perfectly on my fork's steerer tube.

    Sigh. I think I may have bought the wrong headset. :/ Oh well, I found it for only $20

    I think I need this one.

    This stuff is way too complicated.

  17. #167
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Well the recoils head tube is meant for 1 1/18 " fork steerer tubes thus you need a 1 1/8"

    Cane Creek 40-Series EC34 Conventional Headset | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Is this the one you bought? if so it should work the recoils frame fitting is pretty standard so it shouldn't be hard finding a headset that works.

  18. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    I bought the ten series, which is basically the same except the top cap is polymer. It obviously doesn't fit my frame. I'm thinking I need that other one I linked to.

  19. #169
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HIGHDESERT MTB'R 661's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Cane Creek 40 Zero Stack Headset | Cane Creek

    ok so i checked the DiamondBack web site and the recoil takes a zero stack headset,
    this is what another guy on here is running on his Recoil and what i'm going to be getting for mine.

  20. #170
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    Yup, that's the type I thought I'd need. Oh well, live and learn. You should look into the 10 though. The only difference is the polymer top cap and crown race. Apparently the star nut too, but mine came with a metal one. The stock top cap and crown race seem like metal if it is a big deal to you.

    $20 less I don't think you can go wrong.

  21. #171
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BCTJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    711
    What would be the best low-weight rear shock to buy for this bike? The Rock Shox Monarch?

  22. #172
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cobra8d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    310
    Quote Originally Posted by BCTJ View Post
    What would be the best low-weight rear shock to buy for this bike? The Rock Shox Monarch?
    I don't know about best, that is too subjective. But I use a 2009 Fox RP23 XV and I feel it does a great job. Can't comment on the Monarch since I don't have any experience with it.

  23. #173
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    Well, my new headset came in this evening. Spent the last few hours getting everything installed. Easy to install a new headset/fork, the most time consuming thing was not having a bike stand and having to flip half my bike over all the time, and having to basically put everything together just to mark the fork to be cut. The new cups weren't too bad to hammer in, froze them for about 30 minutes, although I don't think a regular food freezer did much. Clamped on the stock stem and used that as a cutting guide, pretty clean cut.

    Rode it around some, felt pretty good. Still have to make adjustments and stuff tomorrow, but hopefully it won't be so hot and I can take it for a spin.

    Here are some pics I just snapped. Can't see too much, but I think it looks pretty cool with the lighting. The fork doesn't look too bad with the forest green bars I got.

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140903_222547990.jpg

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140903_222742133.jpg

    Time to wear out the tires and save up for Shimano hydraulics, x5 1x10 (already have Race Face Ride cranks/BB), and new wheels.

  24. #174
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BCTJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    711
    One problem - it seems there is nowhere to place a water bottle on the bike?

  25. #175
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    78
    That's what CammelBaks are for.

    Got everything adjusted and snapped a few pics today. Unfortunately, it's way too hot and humid to go ride. I was soaked in sweat from just being outside 15 minutes. Looks pretty nice and feels great. Air fork is definatley the best major upgrade to this bike. 120mm feels right at home too.

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140905_151810947.jpg

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_20140905_151730621.jpg

Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Before And After Pictures Lets See Them
    By 918bikerswife in forum Bike and Frame discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-14-2011, 11:39 PM
  2. lets see some ride pictures
    By xcutterx in forum Colorado - Front Range
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 05-27-2009, 10:41 AM
  3. Lets see pictures of your polished mountain bikes!!
    By Mountain Cycle Shawn in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-03-2007, 10:41 AM
  4. Older FSR bikes- lets see some pictures!!!
    By evilgenius in forum Specialized
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-26-2007, 07:49 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •