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  1. #401
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    83mm bottom brackets are typically only on high-end down hill setups.

  2. #402
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    Gotcha. Getting ready to order now, would you say a 32t front and 11-42t rear should be plenty of gear?

  3. #403
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    That's pretty close to what I'm running (34T with a 11-42T cassette) so it should be fine.

  4. #404
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    Well just placed a order with jenson! I ordered
    -race face aeffect 175mm 32t crankset
    -shimano xt m780 10 speed shifter
    -shimano xt m780 derailluer
    -sunrace mx3 10 speed 11-42t cassette
    -shimano xt 10 speed chain

  5. #405
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    Nice!!!

  6. #406
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    Yep now the last thing I would like to do is some new handle bars. I've already upgraded to hydraulic brakes, suspension and now drivetrain. With drivetrain upgrades I'm still at $800 total invested

  7. #407
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    Shit just realized that affect crankset I bought didn't come with bottom bracket. Is this the correct bottom bracket I need?
    Race Face Turbine X-Type Bottom Bracket | Jenson USA

  8. #408
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    I'm 99% sure that's the right one... all the info on the site looks correct to me.

  9. #409
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    I'm a little confused since the race face affect crankset says it uses a 24mm spindle.
    This is the crankset I bought.
    Race Face Aeffect Cinch 1X Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA


    Edit: or is this the right bottom bracket?
    http://www.jensonusa.com/Race-Face-PF30-Bottom-Bracket-Adapter/

  10. #410
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    Well, it looks like your bottom bracket is made for the 30mm spindle and your crank has the standard 24mm spindle... double check but I'm pretty sure the turbine bottom bracket is for the turbine 30mm cranks...

  11. #411
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    So I need to cancel that order and get the turbine crank? How are people using the race face ride crank? They have the 24mm spindle as well.

  12. #412
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    I don't know for sure, I've never used any of the Race Face bottom brackets... I've always used a shimano Hallowtech II bottom bracket, which will work with most cranks with a 24mm spindle.

  13. #413
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    So something like this will work?
    Shimano XTR BB93 English Bottom Bracket | Jenson USA

  14. #414
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    I'm new to mountain biking, but I have a 2014 recoil 29er and am wanting to take it from 3x8 to 1x8. What all parts and tools do I need to get to do this? Saw where a couple of guys have already done this so any help would be great!

  15. #415
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    Tools you'll need!

    You'll need a chain breaker
    Shopsimple Bicycle Bike Chain Splitter Cutter Breaker Repair Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LKALKQ..._kruQIRcU52A7M

    A crank arm and bottom bracket tool for square taper (your original factory parts)
    Professional Bike Bicycle Cycle Crank Extractor Puller Bottom Bracket Remover Removal Spanner Repair Tools Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TFCLP4Y..._Nl8ZHEU8SeTHq

    Then you'll need a tool to put on the new type external bearing type bottom bracket (shimano hollowtech)
    Faswin Bicycle Bottom Bracket Tool Shimano Hollowtech II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DJ226ZW..._ue2Ywxh8nxLQA

  16. #416
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    After all that, you'll need to buy the necessary bits for the 1x crank and chain ring. Check out eBay or pinkbike.com, but stay away from the cheep Chinese knock-off parts... they will break!

  17. #417
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    That's what I'm kind of confused on lol is the parts. Been doing a lot of reading and I think I'm more confused now than when I started, but any recommendations on a specific parts list?

  18. #418
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    Race Face Ride Narrow Wide Single Chainset | Chain Reaction Cycles

    I am assuming this is everything I would need to get me back going?

  19. #419
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    Parts list...

    Shimano single ring Hallowtech II crank set, ZEE, SLX, DEORE, etc.

    Shimano Hollowtech bottom bracket, 68/73 (these two numbers represent your bikes bottom bracket housing size, 68/73 means it will work for either size. Yours is a 73)

    Then you will need a chain ring, I prefer a narrow wide ring (one tooth is narrow and the other is wide, this helps prevent the chain from jumping teeth) it should be 104 BCD (the measurement for the mounting holes) as for the tooth count, anything between a 30t and 36t would be fine.

  20. #420
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    Ok thanks, I guess I was over thinking it a bit. When reading about crank sets I kept seeing where they were for 9 or 10 speed mostly.

  21. #421
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    They are... but you can run an 8 speed rear with a 1 speed crank. I did it for about a month before I took off my 8 speed cassette and put on a 10 speed.

  22. #422
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    Ok thanks for the help, just got everything ordered so should be here in about a week!

  23. #423
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    Keep in mind, the higher the tooth count, the higher the speed, but the harder it is to climb. I went with a 32 tooth and I feel maybe a 30 would have been better for me on climbs.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  24. #424
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    What's your largest rear gear? My bike is at the lbs getting my components installed right now. I have a 32t front chain ring and my largest rear is a 42t.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh154 View Post
    What's your largest rear gear? My bike is at the lbs getting my components installed right now. I have a 32t front chain ring and my largest rear is a 42t.
    mine is 34T CR with a 11-36 cassette

  26. #426
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    Got my bike back from the shop today. They said they couldn't get it right because my cassette is to big? Shop tried telling me I can only go a 11-36 rear with a 10 speed. I have a slx 10 speed derailleur with a 10-42 rear and when on the 42 gear it keeps trying to jump down. I have the long cage slx shadow.

  27. #427
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    Kind of a bad pic, but I have done a good bit in the last two weeks. Went to 1x8 with a 32t Raceface narrow wide chainring, Raceface Chester crankset, Raceface Chester 740mm 1Ē rise bars, Raceface 60mm stem, Jenson USA lock on grips, and shimano m445 rear hydraulic brakes. Front brakes and fork should be in tomorrow. Ordered a Manitou Marvel 120mm fork with the tapered steerer, and already have a new cane creek headset in the garage waiting on the fork, then all Iíll have left is the rear shock to upgrade for now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  28. #428
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    Update on the Recoil :)

    New update: loving the bike more and more , just finished up an awesome ride through 360 Trail in Gig Harbor, WA.

    Current Upgrades:
    Race Face Handlebars
    SRAM locking grips (in red)
    SLX 10 speed shifter
    SLX Long Cage Ghost 10 speed rear derailleur
    XT 11-36 10 speed cassette
    ZEE crankset w/one up 34T narrow/wide single ring and Race Face bash guard
    XT Hollowtech bottom bracket
    Shimano Deore Hydraulic disc brakes
    XT 6 bolt rotors
    Pure 29er XM SL rims with D400 hubs
    Cane Creek 40 series head set for tapered head tube
    Fox Racing 32 FIT 120mm team forks with Kashima Coat
    Marzocchi ROCO Lite rear shock
    KMC X10.93 10-Speed chain
    Race Face Chester peddles

    I'm still running the Kenda Honey Badgers 2.2 inch wide tires that came on it,
    thinking about upgrading to a set of Continental X-King 2.4 folding All Mountain tires next

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-october-trail-pic.jpg

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by daprib View Post
    New update: loving the bike more and more , just finished up an awesome ride through 360 Trail in Gig Harbor, WA.

    Current Upgrades:
    Race Face Handlebars
    SRAM locking grips (in red)
    SLX 10 speed shifter
    SLX Long Cage Ghost 10 speed rear derailleur
    XT 11-36 10 speed cassette
    ZEE crankset w/one up 34T narrow/wide single ring and Race Face bash guard
    XT Hollowtech bottom bracket
    Shimano Deore Hydraulic disc brakes
    XT 6 bolt rotors
    Pure 29er XM SL rims with D400 hubs
    Cane Creek 40 series head set for tapered head tube
    Fox Racing 32 FIT 120mm team forks with Kashima Coat
    Marzocchi ROCO Lite rear shock
    KMC X10.93 10-Speed chain
    Race Face Chester peddles

    I'm still running the Kenda Honey Badgers 2.2 inch wide tires that came on it,
    thinking about upgrading to a set of Continental X-King 2.4 folding All Mountain tires next

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	october trail pic.jpg 
Views:	42 
Size:	277.2 KB 
ID:	1161812
    How are you liking the 120mm travel up front compared to the turd of a fork that comes on the bike?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  30. #430
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    Way better

    Quote Originally Posted by sethc04 View Post
    How are you liking the 120mm travel up front compared to the turd of a fork that comes on the bike?




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The old fork doesn't even compare to the new 120mm fork I got. It's insane how much better the bike got after the change and dialing in of the air spring for my weight. Not to mention the new fork is half the weight of that old mettal pogo stick that came with the bike.

    2 best things I've done... new fork and hydraulic brakes!

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by daprib View Post
    The old fork doesn't even compare to the new 120mm fork I got. It's insane how much better the bike got after the change and dialing in of the air spring for my weight. Not to mention the new fork is half the weight of that old mettal pogo stick that came with the bike.

    2 best things I've done... new fork and hydraulic brakes!
    Agreed on the brakes. Iíve only got my rear hydraulic brakes on and they are still a major upgrade. The wife and me went riding Sunday and the upgrades really made a huge difference. Canít wait to get the Manitou on and go back out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  32. #432
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    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-img_0643.jpg
    Just got my new 2017 recoil 29er, it's a very pretty bike, quality is iffy from the factory for my bike... I got a bent rotor and front and my largest gear (gear 1) on the cassette is slipping because the teeth weren't manufactured very well... Hopefully I can warranty it and get it running the way it should!

    I love this bike so much though, for $399 its a great deal!!!


    I got this bike for added comfort riding street, along for practicing tricks and the occasional offroad. The first upgrade I want to do is the rear shock... that squeeky sob is ready to go since day 1 IMO. the front fork isn't too concerning for me so far... I mostly just want to lock out the rear and have a better ride quality - looking at the DNM air shock for $80

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by daprib View Post
    New update: loving the bike more and more , just finished up an awesome ride through 360 Trail in Gig Harbor, WA.

    Current Upgrades:
    Race Face Handlebars
    SRAM locking grips (in red)
    SLX 10 speed shifter
    SLX Long Cage Ghost 10 speed rear derailleur
    XT 11-36 10 speed cassette
    ZEE crankset w/one up 34T narrow/wide single ring and Race Face bash guard
    XT Hollowtech bottom bracket
    Shimano Deore Hydraulic disc brakes
    XT 6 bolt rotors
    Pure 29er XM SL rims with D400 hubs
    Cane Creek 40 series head set for tapered head tube
    Fox Racing 32 FIT 120mm team forks with Kashima Coat
    Marzocchi ROCO Lite rear shock
    KMC X10.93 10-Speed chain
    Race Face Chester peddles

    I'm still running the Kenda Honey Badgers 2.2 inch wide tires that came on it,
    thinking about upgrading to a set of Continental X-King 2.4 folding All Mountain tires next

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	october trail pic.jpg 
Views:	42 
Size:	277.2 KB 
ID:	1161812

    Sweet set up! What year is your recoil? Was it difficult converting the forks to a tapered headset? Which model cane creek headset 40 series did you use? Do you know if it's compatible with the 2016 recoils?

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaveli View Post
    Sweet set up! What year is your recoil? Was it difficult converting the forks to a tapered headset? Which model cane creek headset 40 series did you use? Do you know if it's compatible with the 2016 recoils?
    Thanks...
    My Recoil is the 2017 model, I'm pretty sure it's the same as the 2016. The conversion wasn't bad, but I highly recommend having you LBS do the headset install because it will need to be pressed in with the proper tool.

    The headset part number and description is ZS44/EC44/40 Tapered Conversion Headset

    :edit: Also... I'm using the 110 crown race instead of the one that came with the kit, it is called 110 52/40 crown race. It is made of an alloy instead of plastic, and has a real nice rubber dust seal built in.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by daprib View Post
    Thanks...
    My Recoil is the 2017 model, I'm pretty sure it's the same as the 2016. The conversion wasn't bad, but I highly recommend having you LBS do the headset install because it will need to be pressed in with the proper tool.

    The headset part number and description is ZS44/EC44/40 Tapered Conversion Headset

    :edit: Also... I'm using the 110 crown race instead of the one that came with the kit, it is called 110 52/40 crown race. It is made of an alloy instead of plastic, and has a real nice rubber dust seal built in.

    oh ok thanks!

  36. #436
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    Got the 120mm Manitou Marvel Pro put on yesterday, and got to ride it around the house a little. Feels great compared to the junk fork that came on it, but Iíll see just how good this weekend when me and the wife hit the trails.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  37. #437
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    I have the cane creek 40 zs44/ec44 headset for a tapered fork on mine too. I agree on having the local bike shop doing the install, it only cost me $45 to get the headset and fork installed and thatís them cutting the fork and everything.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  38. #438
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    for any that have the base 2017 model, have any of you gone tubeless? I'm curious if it was an easy job... I see the comp version has the same rim but states that it is "tubeless compatible" while the base recoil doesn't say it at all... Thoughts?

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by justatree01 View Post
    for any that have the base 2017 model, have any of you gone tubeless? I'm curious if it was an easy job... I see the comp version has the same rim but states that it is "tubeless compatible" while the base recoil doesn't say it at all... Thoughts?
    There are kits that make the rim tubeless, the're about $30

  40. #440
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    Sorry to highjack this thread again, but has anyone fitted a kickstand to their bike?

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by justatree01 View Post
    Sorry to highjack this thread again, but has anyone fitted a kickstand to their bike?
    There is no plate for affixing a kick-stand on the lower stays. Also, the lower rear stays are higher in position then most other MTB frames... So I highly doubt you can get the Diamondback manufactured kickstand to work...

    https://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-A.../dp/B00MJYPS4S

    Searching "google images" for "diamondback recoil kickstand" turns up no images with kickstand fitted to a DB Recoil!

    I just can't see a place to put a manufactured kickstand. I think you are going to have to get slightly wealthy engineering a KS for the DB Recoil.

    Your Recoil Pictures, Lets see them all!!!-db-atz-ncl-extra2.jpg
    Goodbye '95 ZJ. Just so you know, transfering box of left behind womens panties to next truck. Thank you ZJ!

  42. #442
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    1x8 Conversion Parts Needed?

    I am confused as well as to what exactly is needed to convert to 1x setup. Say I simply wanted to remove the inner and outer chainrings, couldn't I go 1x8 with just a crank removal tool?

    I plan to use a narrow wide 30T ring up front, but theoretically, I am definitely confused by needing a new crank set and bottom bracket. Could someone explain why a new crank set and bottom bracket are necessary for converting to 1x8 on a Recoil?

    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by daprib View Post
    Parts list...

    Shimano single ring Hallowtech II crank set, ZEE, SLX, DEORE, etc.

    Shimano Hollowtech bottom bracket, 68/73 (these two numbers represent your bikes bottom bracket housing size, 68/73 means it will work for either size. Yours is a 73)

    Then you will need a chain ring, I prefer a narrow wide ring (one tooth is narrow and the other is wide, this helps prevent the chain from jumping teeth) it should be 104 BCD (the measurement for the mounting holes) as for the tooth count, anything between a 30t and 36t would be fine.

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by thannes View Post
    I am confused as well as to what exactly is needed to convert to 1x setup. Say I simply wanted to remove the inner and outer chainrings, couldn't I go 1x8 with just a crank removal tool?

    I plan to use a narrow wide 30T ring up front, but theoretically, I am definitely confused by needing a new crank set and bottom bracket. Could someone explain why a new crank set and bottom bracket are necessary for converting to 1x8 on a Recoil?

    Thanks
    First... if your running the stock SR Suntour 3 ring cranks then there is no removing the other 2 rings. They are pressed in and riveted to the crank assembly. Second... a crank removal tool is to pull off your crank arms not the chain rings. Third... you will need a new crank and bottom bracket because of the above answers. Your factory crank set can not go 1x, and the crank sets that are avalible as a 1x setup will not connect to your factory bottom bracket. Therefor you will need a new crank set and bottom bracket.

  44. #444
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    Awesome explanation daprib!! Good stuff. I will check out the parts you posted earlier and make a decision. If I'm going to spend money on a few parts I might as well get a 1x10 or 1x11 cassette and make the thing perfect Thanks man!

    Quote Originally Posted by daprib View Post
    First... if your running the stock SR Suntour 3 ring cranks then there is no removing the other 2 rings. They are pressed in and riveted to the crank assembly. Second... a crank removal tool is to pull off your crank arms not the chain rings. Third... you will need a new crank and bottom bracket because of the above answers. Your factory crank set can not go 1x, and the crank sets that are avalible as a 1x setup will not connect to your factory bottom bracket. Therefor you will need a new crank set and bottom bracket.

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by daprib View Post
    First... if your running the stock SR Suntour 3 ring cranks then there is no removing the other 2 rings. They are pressed in and riveted to the crank assembly. Second... a crank removal tool is to pull off your crank arms not the chain rings. Third... you will need a new crank and bottom bracket because of the above answers. Your factory crank set can not go 1x, and the crank sets that are avalible as a 1x setup will not connect to your factory bottom bracket. Therefor you will need a new crank set and bottom bracket.
    That's not all ways true. My buddy had a cheap shimano triple crank on his marlin 6 that had the rings riveted on, at the same time, i was converting my daughter's axis xe from DSG to 1x and it had an sr suntour crank with bolted on rings and i was able to use it. Thannes, you may want to check if you have bolts or rivets.

  46. #446
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    Odogg79, that is true but... if thannes is talking about swapping the setup on a DB recoil then unfortunately it was spec'd with a cheap rivited unit. But yes... if your crank is a three ring with bolts you can unbolt the chain rings and set it up with a single ring of your choosing.

  47. #447
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    I think more of a reason to get a new crankset is for the proper chain lime...

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  48. #448
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    Correct, but with a 3x the middle ring is pretty much perfect.

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