I managed to pick up a 2012 Diamondback Overdrive on CL as a trade for some old computer parts. I had been looking to try the 29er thing and after one ride I fell in love. I have changed the drivetrain to a 2x9 Deore setup and have installed an XC32TK with Solo Air. Everything else is Original parts. I intend to keep this thing for a while so I intend to keep this thread updated with information I wanted when researching but no one ever posted. Lets start with the Wheel weights:
The whole bike as it stands weighs in just shy of 32 lbs. Frame size L.
I am loving the ride but you can see the wheels and tires are porkers. Hope this info helps someone see where they can shed weight and get the most bang for the buck.
I just picked up this bike (size M) for $250 lightly used. I really like the stoutness of the frame and the geometry fits me perfectly, however, I am really looking for something more high performance in the weight category (specifically wheels/tires/drivetrain). Assuming the medium frame weighs 4.5 lbs or a little less, anyone have any objections or reasons that this frame would not be a good candidate for building a lightweight hard tail?
Derailleur hanger is weak and depending on what year the bike is it might be hard to find one if it breaks! I have a 2013 OverDrive and want to up grade the hanger but don't think anyone makes one. Wheels Manufacturing, Inc. does not list any thing, Hanger #106 is no longer listed for the Diamondback Overdrive on the Wheels Manufacturing and Derailleur Hanger websites because it doesn't fit.
I sent a message to Wheels Manufacturing asking them to make a hanger for our bike, don't know if it will help but if more people do it, it might.
Hangers that don't work for 2013 Overdrive (and maybe other Overdrives)
#157
#106
Considering that niner air 9 frames weigh in at aboul 3.5 lbs, i see no reason why this frame couldnt be built up to reasonably light weights. Swapping tires to something a little lighter could shed between 2 and 3 lbs. replacing the fork with a reba or symilar could shed 1-2 lbs over the suntour xct. If you are light enough to get some stans crests, thats another 2 lbs saved. The crank is a porker. Go with an XT or XTR and there is another lb.
$250 in, add another $1000 in parts (less if you buy used) and all of a sudden you have a 26ish aluminum hardtail to race on. Lighter if you go carbon rigid fork.
The frame is stiff enough to be race worthy. I have mine built up with a 2x9 deore drivetrain, shymano hydros, xc32tk with solo air spring, everything else is stock and I am at 29lbs. Thats with stock wheels and tires.
P.S. ( unless you are racing, or have a long trip with several thousand feet of climbing, weight is really a non issue. I tried light weight racing tires but for the riding i want to do they were terrible. I went back to the stock wolverines and they have been great in everything from sand to loose rock. The next set of tires will be tubeless wolverines or perhaps their folding race version.)
I have an 11. I put a set of Stans arch with XT hubs and Continental Mountain kings on. I have to say it really woke the bike up. I paid more for the wheels than the bike but I would do it again for sure. That and a set of 700mm low rise bars with a 70mm stem.
I managed to pick up a 2012 Diamondback Overdrive on CL as a trade for some old computer parts. I had been looking to try the 29er thing and after one ride I fell in love. I have changed the drivetrain to a 2x9 Deore setup and have installed an XC32TK with Solo Air. Everything else is Original parts. I intend to keep this thing for a while so I intend to keep this thread updated with information I wanted when researching but no one ever posted. Lets start with the Wheel weights:
The whole bike as it stands weighs in just shy of 32 lbs. Frame size L.
I am loving the ride but you can see the wheels and tires are porkers. Hope this info helps someone see where they can shed weight and get the most bang for the buck.
I have a question for you. Did you have to replace your rear wheel hub in order to upgrade to a 9 speed cassette? The reason why I ask is because I have a 2012 DB Overdrive with stock wheels/hubs and its a 7 speed. I would like to upgrade it to 9 speed but I'm not sure if my hub will fit a 9 speed cassette.
I have a question for you. Did you have to replace your rear wheel hub in order to upgrade to a 9 speed cassette? The reason why I ask is because I have a 2012 DB Overdrive with stock wheels/hubs and its a 7 speed. I would like to upgrade it to 9 speed but I'm not sure if my hub will fit a 9 speed cassette.
Hey man. If memory serves me right, for you to have a 7 speed cassette you must have the overdrive V model that came with V-brakes right? You can check your rear gear cluster to see if it will take a 9 speed cassette. If you have a cassette with a lock ring and space in between your cassette and wheel then you can just remove the existing cassette and spacer and install any 8, 9, or 10 speed.
If your gear cluster is a freewheel then you are going to have to replace the rear wheel. Feel free to post a few pictures of the area and I might be able to tell you.
I actually have the overdrive that's one step above the v-brake model so mine has mechanical disk brakes. Not sure why it came with a 7 speed setup?? I took some pictures of my cassette/wheel hub for you to check out. You may or may not be able to tell if there is a spacer somewhere in there. I plan on picking up a cassette lockring tool next weekend. Hey - I appreciate your help!!
Looks like you have a cassette installed. From the pictures it seems to be the shimano cs-hg20-7. I also see a good size gap between your largest sprocket and the spoke guard (clear plastic thing between your gear cluster and spokes.) so there should be a spacer behind your cassette which means you should be able to install any 8,9, and 10 speed cassette. Don't forget you have to change your shifters to match the cassette.
I've got a noob question for you all...sorry lol...I've got a response xe 29er, which to me, and Raleigh (diamondback), seems to be an overdrive v with a Shimano Altus on it, and mechanical disc brakes...my question is, my crank hub is loose and wobbly, how can I tighten it? The cranks themselves seem to be tight, but the hub seems to be loose/wobbly. Not sure If the bearing cup is loose, or the bearings are shot. Ive ridden it maybe 50 miles, but I'm 6'2", 240...I am mechanically inclined, and understand torque specs and factory service procedures, just new to mtb. Any help or redirect to a tech thread on this would be appreciated!
Loose bottom bracket at 50 miles? It is not likely. The bb cup uses a specific splined tool. After the crack is removed with a crank puller (insert joke here), the bottom bracket cup (non drive side) and bottom bracket (drive side) can be accessed.
I'll have to take a closer look when I get home, I'll post a quick vid...if I grab a crank on one side and move it, the whole assembly wobbles...thank you greatlakes!
I'll have to take a closer look when I get home, I'll post a quick vid...if I grab a crank on one side and move it, the whole assembly wobbles...thank you greatlakes!
Well, it's definitely inside the bottom bracket, the whole crank assembly moves laterally, soI took it to the local shop after work this afternoon, I should know what's wrong with it by tomorrow...I'll post an update then.
I forgot to update the BB issue, it was the old school ball bearing setup. It pretty much grenaded. I had them install a shimano UN55 sealed BB, works like a charm now. They used the 68X100mm UN55.
Another note, I'm waiting for my xc32tk fork to be installed, had a recent bday, and free money showed up! Yay lol..that should be done tomorrow...I'll update then.
I have a 2012 Overdrive that needs both shifter cables replaced. This year model has partially covered cables unfortunately they covered in the wrong places. One of the exposed areas is where a lot of sweat collects - brilliant! Instead of using hangers that can be zip tied they created bracket that I call cups. I'm attaching pics. From what I can tell there's not a way to replace with a fully enclosed cables and still utilizing these hangers. It looks like I'll have to rig some sort of hangers like pipe strapping or just zip tie the cables to the frame which I'm not thrill about. Has anyone else been though this with these kind of hangers?
There is a lot of info about drilling stops to run full length cable. There is also a widget I think problem solvers makes that bolts to the stock stops and adds a open hanger. I went with the jagwire ripcord set up. there is a cover in the kit that slips over the open area and protects it.
I'd like to upgrade my bbracket. Currently I have a Chin Haur CH52-73 118L BC1.37x24T. (came with bike) I'd like change to something like the Shimano UN55 BB Square Taper Bottom Bracket. This is the first time changing out a BB. What do I need to know to make sure they're compatible?
Thanks for the info. I was able to scoop up one of the last 2014 Carbon expert models. It's still not fully assembled. I need to make a trip to the shop because they have the tools I don't have to finish it. But my first impression of the frame is "Wow." I have those same wheels and it is still super light. Once I get the cockpit set up the way I want, I feel like this thing is going to fly even with the heavy wheels.
Fortunately, my racing is done for the year but next season I'll be upgrading the wheels and am seriously excited about how much easier life will be compared to my old aluminum 29er.
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