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  1. #51
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    yeah i agree with you, if i could "build to order" I would
    I don't have parts lying around tho

    That being said, i saw a crux race commuting on the rovals yesterday in front of me, damn it still looks nice.. :P

  2. #52
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    New question here.

    I am currently in the market for a new bike and would like to have something that will be good for the D2R2 and rides like that. I enjoy tying together dirt road loops from my home and doing the ever increasing dirt road events that are getting more popular. I am a CAT4 racer in CX and have a bike now, I don't ever finish anywhere near the front so if I keep racing my old Trek XO1 it's not a big deal to me. What I am interested in is a bike that I can take on epic climbing rides where the pavement is at a minimum. I am looking for input as I am at a toss up for the Crux EVO or going the way of getting a Roubaix Sport Disk, both bikes have similar group and wheelsets. Things I am looking at are tire size that can be run on either bike and gearing due to the nature of the riding around Vermont. With my lack of keeping my mouth shut when offered ice cream from my wife I need all the help I can get. I have been doing these rides on a road bike set up with the Wi-Fi 11-32 and compact 52-36 with 25's but find them a little to narrow for this going forward. The Roubaix was my 1st choice however I am hearing all this great news about the CRUX being a great all around bike I am beginning to have second thoughts here.

  3. #53
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    GreenMtn....I've ridden the D2R2 many times...so I know where you are coming from.

    The Crux will be a very good bike...and you can use it for Cross too.

    But I rode a freind's 2012 Roubaix at this years event for 1 climb and descent.....and it impressed the hell out of me!

    This year I rode a Ridley XFire disc...which climbed great....BUT...it is really stiff and quick handling. When you get over 30 mph on washboard dirt....it never wobbled...but it didn't inspire confidence.Basically...everything that makes it a great race bike...has it's limits at the D2.
    The Roubaix was super smooth and steady.

    I have the hots for the Roubaix Expert Di2 disc.....it might be the ultimate do-all bike. With a gearing and tire change....I can go from road bike to dirt road bike easily.
    But it's not a cross bike.

  4. #54
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    @ greenmtn.man

    Quote Originally Posted by GreenMtn.Man View Post
    I am currently in the market for a new bike and would like to have something that will be good for the D2R2 and rides like that. I enjoy tying together dirt road loops from my home and doing the ever increasing dirt road events that are getting more popular. I am a CAT4 racer in CX and have a bike now, I don't ever finish anywhere near the front so if I keep racing my old Trek XO1 it's not a big deal to me. What I am interested in is a bike that I can take on epic climbing rides where the pavement is at a minimum. I am looking for input as I am at a toss up for the Crux EVO or going the way of getting a Roubaix Sport Disk, both bikes have similar group and wheelsets. Things I am looking at are tire size that can be run on either bike and gearing due to the nature of the riding around Vermont. With my lack of keeping my mouth shut when offered ice cream from my wife I need all the help I can get. I have been doing these rides on a road bike set up with the Wi-Fi 11-32 and compact 52-36 with 25's but find them a little to narrow for this going forward. The Roubaix was my 1st choice however I am hearing all this great news about the CRUX being a great all around bike I am beginning to have second thoughts here.
    You have had one vote for the Roubaix Sport. It's an amazing bike. I rode one before purchasing a crux pro disc, which I had the extreme pleasure of receiving about a month ago and I haven't stopped smiling since. I live in a very hilly region in Australia. I don't know your terrain, but the crux is spectacular on hills.

    Comparing the two bikes you have mentioned, the geometry will be very similar to the point that you probably won't notice the difference. The Roubaix will most likely be lighter, but the Crux will fit fatter tires. I'm not sure of the maximum clearances, but a previous post said 40mm on the Crux which seems about right (the comparative data should be available from your LBS). The wider tires will mean even more rotating weight.

    As a result I think the Roubaix will likely climb better. But you seem to be intent on fatter tires for gravel use and I think you're spot on there. I run trigger tires (32mm) on my Crux at 60psi. It seems more comfortable and compliant than the equivalent Roubaix on more narrow tires. The Crux climbs amazingly well also. And it will fit your wi-fli cassette.

    If you're going on gravel, I would prioritize the fatter tires. Yesterday I had a freak experience to solidlify that choice. I was about 2 miles into a long climb, on the second largest cog. I'm about 12 lbs heavier than my previous glorious self, so I was puffing and traveling at probably 5 mph. Hearing a car approach from behind on the winding stretch I brought the bike to the side of the road and a exactly the point that the car passed a black snake was startled by me and popped into the road. (They're reportedly more than 4 times more toxic than rattlesnakes but only aggressive when scared - which this one was).

    Diverting into the road would have been me being hit by the car. Straight ahead would have meant greatly aggravating a large snake at slow speed. So I took to off-road. Off-road was off-camber (significantly), very loose gravel and dry leaves with some spindly long grass and a smattering of fist-sized rocks.

    Had I been on tires anything 25mm or less, I would have slammed onto the road onto or within close striking distance of a very startled (read: pissed off) snake. As is was, I simply steered around it without slipping at all and nothing to do except put my shorts through a deep wash cycle and keep it secret from my wife (she gets paranoid about these things). I would love to think it was my ninja reflexes that saved me, but it was all the bike I'm afraid.

    Granted, this isn't likely to happen to you (but you do have bears, which scare me more) but my point is that fatter tires give you more options and can't be overrated for gravel.

    As a more regular example of how good the Crux is, at the end of my rides I normally put the bike over a grassy embankment and ride through a local park. I can ride like a grown-up on the road and then feel like a kid again at the end of it. I've even been eyeing off the local skate-park.

    The Crux is incredibly good fun, and feels really solid. It also climbs really well. It quite literally makes me feel like a kid again and as a result of it being so enjoyable I'm riding much more.

    If you get the Crux, and can therefore part with your other Cross bike, might you be able to justify springing for some lighter components (enve cockpit, for example)? If so, you would probably bring the total weight down to the Roubaix territory and add even more compliance. Just sayin'!

  5. #55
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    My buddy has a 2014 Crux with SRAM hydro disc brakes. His last two cyclocross races have been hurt by the rear wheel coming out of the dropout. I assume it's the force of the brakes pulling the wheel down, but it's strange as I've never seen this problem with disc brake mountain bikes. He's tried two different types of skewers with the same result. I suggest he try the DT Swiss ratcheting skewers to see if that would fix it.

    Has anyone else had this problem on these bikes?

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kris View Post
    My buddy has a 2014 Crux with SRAM hydro disc brakes. His last two cyclocross races have been hurt by the rear wheel coming out of the dropout. I assume it's the force of the brakes pulling the wheel down, but it's strange as I've never seen this problem with disc brake mountain bikes. He's tried two different types of skewers with the same result. I suggest he try the DT Swiss ratcheting skewers to see if that would fix it.

    Has anyone else had this problem on these bikes?
    Weird, I have a 2014 Crux with hydraulic disc brakes and have experienced zero issues, and definitely no wheels falling out of the drop outs.

  7. #57
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by DrWild View Post
    You have had one vote for the Roubaix Sport. It's an amazing bike. I rode one before purchasing a crux pro disc, which I had the extreme pleasure of receiving about a month ago and I haven't stopped smiling since. I live in a very hilly region in Australia. I don't know your terrain, but the crux is spectacular on hills.

    Comparing the two bikes you have mentioned, the geometry will be very similar to the point that you probably won't notice the difference. The Roubaix will most likely be lighter, but the Crux will fit fatter tires. I'm not sure of the maximum clearances, but a previous post said 40mm on the Crux which seems about right (the comparative data should be available from your LBS). The wider tires will mean even more rotating weight.

    As a result I think the Roubaix will likely climb better. But you seem to be intent on fatter tires for gravel use and I think you're spot on there. I run trigger tires (32mm) on my Crux at 60psi. It seems more comfortable and compliant than the equivalent Roubaix on more narrow tires. The Crux climbs amazingly well also. And it will fit your wi-fli cassette.

    If you're going on gravel, I would prioritize the fatter tires. Yesterday I had a freak experience to solidlify that choice. I was about 2 miles into a long climb, on the second largest cog. I'm about 12 lbs heavier than my previous glorious self, so I was puffing and traveling at probably 5 mph. Hearing a car approach from behind on the winding stretch I brought the bike to the side of the road and a exactly the point that the car passed a black snake was startled by me and popped into the road. (They're reportedly more than 4 times more toxic than rattlesnakes but only aggressive when scared - which this one was).

    Diverting into the road would have been me being hit by the car. Straight ahead would have meant greatly aggravating a large snake at slow speed. So I took to off-road. Off-road was off-camber (significantly), very loose gravel and dry leaves with some spindly long grass and a smattering of fist-sized rocks.

    Had I been on tires anything 25mm or less, I would have slammed onto the road onto or within close striking distance of a very startled (read: pissed off) snake. As is was, I simply steered around it without slipping at all and nothing to do except put my shorts through a deep wash cycle and keep it secret from my wife (she gets paranoid about these things). I would love to think it was my ninja reflexes that saved me, but it was all the bike I'm afraid.

    Granted, this isn't likely to happen to you (but you do have bears, which scare me more) but my point is that fatter tires give you more options and can't be overrated for gravel.

    As a more regular example of how good the Crux is, at the end of my rides I normally put the bike over a grassy embankment and ride through a local park. I can ride like a grown-up on the road and then feel like a kid again at the end of it. I've even been eyeing off the local skate-park.

    The Crux is incredibly good fun, and feels really solid. It also climbs really well. It quite literally makes me feel like a kid again and as a result of it being so enjoyable I'm riding much more.

    If you get the Crux, and can therefore part with your other Cross bike, might you be able to justify springing for some lighter components (enve cockpit, for example)? If so, you would probably bring the total weight down to the Roubaix territory and add even more compliance. Just sayin'!
    Thanks for the information from both of you, I ended up getting a Roubaix and will wait another year on updating the cross bike. I am looking at a lighter wheelset maybe a Stan's tubeless, looks like the Roubaix is able to take a 28 mm tire. I ride allot of gravel now with 28 file tread and find this to be a good set up. Thanks again for the story!

  8. #58
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    i'm wondering if i should get an expert crux or wait for the evo and replace some items of the drive train. the evo just has the "force/red" stuff instead of the "rival/apex" mix and cost quite a bit more (and a few meaningless other changes like tires 'n so on, but i guess everyone just put their own wheels/tires anyways)

  9. #59
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    I am starting to research the idea of buying the carbon crux (or someting similar: Giant TCX Advanced, Norco Threshold Carbon, Jamis Supernova, etc) and using it for both cyclocross and as a road bike. I haven't ridden any of them yet. How is the Crux as a road bike? Specifically, my current cross bike with Ritchey WCS carbon fork is fairly annoying on the road as the fork flexes all over the place. How is the geo on the Crux as a road bike? Any other considerations to consider for road riding? As a point of reference, I am used to my Scott CR1 Limited road bike. Thanks

  10. #60
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    just bought the expert :P it's better than i expected even as a road bike. rode the tarmac just after and while lighter and a bit faster i like the crux ride better.

  11. #61
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    Add the Cannondale Super X to your shopping list. It's easily the best bike, any type of bike I've ridden.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by tapeworm View Post
    I am starting to research the idea of buying the carbon crux (or someting similar: Giant TCX Advanced, Norco Threshold Carbon, Jamis Supernova, etc) and using it for both cyclocross and as a road bike. I haven't ridden any of them yet. How is the Crux as a road bike? Specifically, my current cross bike with Ritchey WCS carbon fork is fairly annoying on the road as the fork flexes all over the place. How is the geo on the Crux as a road bike? Any other considerations to consider for road riding? As a point of reference, I am used to my Scott CR1 Limited road bike. Thanks
    There are a lot of great carbon cross bikes out there, the differences can be pretty subtle. There are a couple of things about the carbon Crux that help it stand out, I think.

    For example, it's the only race-capable bike I found w/ clearance for a 40mm tire. That was important to me as I intend to use mine as a gravel grinder bike as well as a cross race bike.

    I have an SWorks Roubaix that I love, and the steering geometry of the Crux matches the Roubaix. The only differences are a very slightly higher BB than the Roubaix, and a 1cm longer chainstay. I was a little concerned that the chainstay would make the Crux a little less road-worthy. I shouldn't have worried. Can't tell the difference at all. The frame is stiff enough that steering input is spot on, it really carves turns well (I've got quite a few rides on my Crux w/ road tires).

    I have to admit I bought my Crux sort of as an experiment, but now I know I'm on the right track. Aside from my XC mtb, the Crux will be my do-everything bike. I am already racing 'cross on it, plan to do gravel events on it, and will use it for the few road races I plan to do next year.

    For 'cross and gravel, I'm using a set of Arch EX wheels set up tubeless. For the road, I'm going to run the disc-hubbed Velocity A23 Comp wheels and tubeless Hutchinson Sector tires.

    In short, I love the bike.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudge View Post
    There are a lot of great carbon cross bikes out there, the differences can be pretty subtle. There are a couple of things about the carbon Crux that help it stand out, I think.

    For example, it's the only race-capable bike I found w/ clearance for a 40mm tire. That was important to me as I intend to use mine as a gravel grinder bike as well as a cross race bike.

    I have an SWorks Roubaix that I love, and the steering geometry of the Crux matches the Roubaix. The only differences are a very slightly higher BB than the Roubaix, and a 1cm longer chainstay. I was a little concerned that the chainstay would make the Crux a little less road-worthy. I shouldn't have worried. Can't tell the difference at all. The frame is stiff enough that steering input is spot on, it really carves turns well (I've got quite a few rides on my Crux w/ road tires).

    I have to admit I bought my Crux sort of as an experiment, but now I know I'm on the right track. Aside from my XC mtb, the Crux will be my do-everything bike. I am already racing 'cross on it, plan to do gravel events on it, and will use it for the few road races I plan to do next year.

    For 'cross and gravel, I'm using a set of Arch EX wheels set up tubeless. For the road, I'm going to run the disc-hubbed Velocity A23 Comp wheels and tubeless Hutchinson Sector tires.

    In short, I love the bike.
    Mudge,
    What 40mm tires are you specifically using, or going to use, on your Crux? I'm interested in the same thing, but tires around that size seem to be a bit of a rarity.

    Thanks.

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwitte View Post
    Mudge,
    What 40mm tires are you specifically using, or going to use, on your Crux? I'm interested in the same thing, but tires around that size seem to be a bit of a rarity.

    Thanks.
    Kenda Happy Medium.

    When they're available, I'll try out the Surly Knard in 700x41.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudge View Post
    Kenda Happy Medium.

    When they're available, I'll try out the Surly Knard in 700x41.
    Good info, thanks!!

  16. #66
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    How much do the 2014 Carbon Cruxes weigh?

  17. #67
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    my 56cm 2014 crux expert weights 9kg stock.
    my 56cm 2012 crux comp disc weights 9.9kg stock.

    Question: do you guys have the rubber rings on the rear disc brake caliper, where the caliper attaches to the frame? Mine doesn't, all my other disc-brake bikes do. It makes adjusting hard and it even looks like it could damage the carbon frame so I'm wondering if the LBS didn't "forget" to put them.
    Thanks

  18. #68
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    I have an update with pictures, thoughts, and weights on my 2014 Specialized Crux over on blog. Take a look!

    www.CyclesInLife.com
    Last edited by cujarrett; 11-04-2013 at 06:02 AM.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    Question: do you guys have the rubber rings on the rear disc brake caliper, where the caliper attaches to the frame? Mine doesn't, all my other disc-brake bikes do. It makes adjusting hard and it even looks like it could damage the carbon frame so I'm wondering if the LBS didn't "forget" to put them.
    Thanks
    nobody can take 10s to reply?

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    nobody can take 10s to reply?
    I can't picture what you're talking about. How about post a pic of one of your brakes that has the rings, and a pic of the brake on your Crux. It'll help.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by boubla View Post
    my 56cm 2014 crux expert weights 9kg stock.
    my 56cm 2012 crux comp disc weights 9.9kg stock.

    Question: do you guys have the rubber rings on the rear disc brake caliper, where the caliper attaches to the frame? Mine doesn't, all my other disc-brake bikes do. It makes adjusting hard and it even looks like it could damage the carbon frame so I'm wondering if the LBS didn't "forget" to put them.
    Thanks
    I have a detail picture of my fork disc brake interface within these pictures. It may answer what you are looking for:

    New Bike Day! 2014 Specialized CruX Expert Red Disc | Cycles In Life

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by cujarrett View Post
    I have a detail picture of my fork disc brake interface within these pictures. It may answer what you are looking for:

    New Bike Day! 2014 Specialized CruX Expert Red Disc | Cycles In Life
    Promoting the blog again??

    Those aren't rubber rings, but conical washers. If the face of the brake mounts are square, you don't need 'em. If not, you need 'em on both sides of the brake (between brake and fork, and between brake and bolt head). One set as shown won't allow for any meaningful adjustment that a plain washer won't do just as well.

    My Crux came with them on the front, but not the rear. I took 'em off the front, everything is still working just fine.

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudge View Post
    Promoting the blog again??

    Those aren't rubber rings, but conical washers. If the face of the brake mounts are square, you don't need 'em. If not, you need 'em on both sides of the brake (between brake and fork, and between brake and bolt head). One set as shown won't allow for any meaningful adjustment that a plain washer won't do just as well.

    My Crux came with them on the front, but not the rear. I took 'em off the front, everything is still working just fine.
    The guy asked a question that I tried to help with. I wasn't in front of my Crux so I posted a link to where there was a detailed picture of one of the brake mounts, which was more than anyone else did after he asked twice.

    On another topic but related to this thread, did anyone else see the news Bike Radar posted about Sram recalling some of the hydraulic rim and disc brakes? Does anyone here have an effected serial numbered product?

    SRAM stops sale of Hydro Road brakes - BikeRadar

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by cujarrett View Post
    The guy asked a question that I tried to help with. I wasn't in front of my Crux so I posted a link to where there was a detailed picture of one of the brake mounts, which was more than anyone else did after he asked twice.

    On another topic but related to this thread, did anyone else see the news Bike Radar posted about Sram recalling some of the hydraulic rim and disc brakes? Does anyone here have an effected serial numbered product?

    SRAM stops sale of Hydro Road brakes - BikeRadar



    From your link, a few lines below the title.

    "serial numbers between 36T30000000 and 42T39999999"

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez View Post
    From your link, a few lines below the title.

    "serial numbers between 36T30000000 and 42T39999999"
    Yeah, I saw the effected serial numbers in the link, what I was asking is does anyone on here have an effected brake set.

  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by cujarrett View Post
    The guy asked a question that I tried to help with. I wasn't in front of my Crux so I posted a link to where there was a detailed picture of one of the brake mounts, which was more than anyone else did after he asked twice.

    On another topic but related to this thread, did anyone else see the news Bike Radar posted about Sram recalling some of the hydraulic rim and disc brakes? Does anyone here have an effected serial numbered product?

    SRAM stops sale of Hydro Road brakes - BikeRadar
    Just messing with you a little, I'd seen in a different thread someone else giving you unwarranted grief. No offense intended.

    The bigger issue, one I didn't mention earlier, is that pix of your brakes won't really help us understand what the dickens Boubla is talking about. Your brakes look just like mine did, and nothing on my brakes or in your pictures looks even remotely like a rubber ring where the caliper mounts to the frame.

    To really answer his question, we need to see a pic of his brakes.

  27. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudge View Post
    Promoting the blog again??

    Those aren't rubber rings, but conical washers. If the face of the brake mounts are square, you don't need 'em. If not, you need 'em on both sides of the brake (between brake and fork, and between brake and bolt head). One set as shown won't allow for any meaningful adjustment that a plain washer won't do just as well.

    My Crux came with them on the front, but not the rear. I took 'em off the front, everything is still working just fine.
    Thanks, that's exactly the answer I was looking for, and then some. With the explanation so I'm a little less dumb now

    Everything's fine then

  28. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by tapeworm View Post
    I am starting to research the idea of buying the carbon crux (or someting similar: Giant TCX Advanced, Norco Threshold Carbon, Jamis Supernova, etc) and using it for both cyclocross and as a road bike. I haven't ridden any of them yet. How is the Crux as a road bike? Specifically, my current cross bike with Ritchey WCS carbon fork is fairly annoying on the road as the fork flexes all over the place. How is the geo on the Crux as a road bike? Any other considerations to consider for road riding? As a point of reference, I am used to my Scott CR1 Limited road bike. Thanks
    my Crux is about 1.5 kg heavier than my road bike and I don't notice the difference at all. In fact, I wound up riding it a bunch on the road after the floods happened here in Boulder (road damage / mud/sand/debris in the roads and general carnage) and ended up taking down a bunch of Strava PRs (on climbs, even) that I'd originally set with my fancy Campy-equipped Eye-talian road bike.

    I actually prefer the ride and handling to my roadie, truth be told. I'm planning to get a set of Stans road disc wheels to replace the heavy Axis ones, and mount them up with slicks.

    After talking with another racer out at one of the 'cross events who has the 2013 Sworks Crux Disc and wound up selling his road bike and just racing the Crux instead (in crits, even) I'm planning to do the same. None of the officials have batted an eye at anyone racing discs on the road, and I've heard of more than just this guy.

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kris View Post
    My buddy has a 2014 Crux with SRAM hydro disc brakes. His last two cyclocross races have been hurt by the rear wheel coming out of the dropout. I assume it's the force of the brakes pulling the wheel down, but it's strange as I've never seen this problem with disc brake mountain bikes. He's tried two different types of skewers with the same result. I suggest he try the DT Swiss ratcheting skewers to see if that would fix it.

    Has anyone else had this problem on these bikes?
    Nope, and we have 2 in the household. I would suggest trying to contact your shop/dealer to see if this is a warranty / defect issue.

  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by tapeworm View Post
    How much do the 2014 Carbon Cruxes weigh?
    My Crux pro race red weighs 7.90kg with its roval wheelset on, including pedals rated at 343g (around 7.56kg without pedals). I've changed some components but these would have offset (force wifli cassette, red derailleur, enve cockpit but added gel strip) so it would be near enough to 7.6kg out of the box without pedals.

  31. #81
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    So I now have 4 or 5 races on my Crux Pro. It's pretty great. I am not someone who's a big canti hater. I've been pretty happy with my canti-braked bikes on the race course, in general (although I live in California, where it's rarely muddy), but bought the disc Crux, since a) It's what Spesh sells as a complete bike, and b) I'm pretty sure that canti-braked high-end frames will lose resale value pretty drastically.

    The bike's super stiff. It's a cliche, but when you step on the pedals, the bike just goes. The downside is, of course, a little less bump absorption, but that's what tires are for. I've been really happy with the handling. The balance is right for the slow-speed chicanes, but it's pretty confidence inspiring on faster, sketchier stuff as well. In fact, the word I'd use is confidence. In the times I've ridden it, that's the thing that's stood out for me.

    There are a few issues I have:
    - the front shifting is not quite consistent. Occasionally it just will not go into the big ring.
    - The bike's not light. I've not weighed it, but even with the fancy wheels (I got the Pro), i'd be shocked if it were below 17.5lbs, even with the lighter stem I put on it. I mean, it's still the lightest bike I've ever owned, but it's also the most expensive, by 3 or 4x.
    - The design of the specialized seatpost is such that I cannot get it low enough. The curve starts too low on the post. This is, admittedly, only a problem for people with short legs.
    - I had the same brake bite point problems that have been mentioned. I was able to resolve them, but at the cost of easy reach to the levers when in the drops.

    Pleasant surprises:
    - the SRAM hydro hoods, although they look pretty dorky, are surprisingly comfortable.
    - All reports to the contrary, the disc spacing on the Axis wheels and the fancy Roval tubies is the same, so wheels are easily swappable.
    - The Pro paint job is pretty sweet looking in person.

  32. #82
    little mad riding hood
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    "- The design of the specialized seatpost is such that I cannot get it low enough. The curve starts too low on the post. This is, admittedly, only a problem for people with short legs. "

    I've known a couple folks who've had this issue. It's a really dumb design for the smaller sizes. The inserts limit you from inserting the post past a certain point and they're really low down.

    I swapped the post for a fizik Cyrano because (another dumb design flaw) the single bolt design means I could never get it to hold angle, even torqued past spec, which is already insanely high (9nm or something crazy). Single bolt + cross is just a really bad idea.

    We've had the same experience with the wheels - they're pretty easily swappable for us; I think the only time we had rub issues was the first time or 2 we swapped them out. Pads bed in and they're fine.

  33. #83
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    Fantastic bike!

    I just did a 50 mile ride. Mix of gravel, dirt roads, road, snow...

    Wow this thing is super fast. I have the Crux Expert 2013, with several mods.

    Thomson seatpost and stem

    Mavic slr 29 wheels

    Ritchey evo curve carbon handlebar

    And hauling ass on the roads at 28-30mph was no problem.

    The bike climbs surprisingly well for 425mm chain stays.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Your thoughts about the Specialized Crux for 2014 with hydro brakes?-image.jpg  

    Sit and spin my ass...

  34. #84
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    Waiting for the BB7 brakes and Force levers as temporary replacements for the S-700 hydros on my '14 Elite EVO. Then they will send the revised hydros whenever they are available.
    Updates | SRAM Road Hydraulic Brake Recall
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluesDawg View Post
    Waiting for the BB7 brakes and Force levers as temporary replacements for the S-700 hydros on my '14 Elite EVO. Then they will send the revised hydros whenever they are available.
    Updates | SRAM Road Hydraulic Brake Recall
    just FYI the BB7s feel NOTHING like the hydros and you may be somewhat sad until the full hydro replacements are swapped out.

    The SRAM techs at CX Nats here in Boulder were saying May-June for replacements when I talked to them. And I talked to them because mine worked absolutely perfect with no issues right up until the rear brake failed (lever to the bar, total pressure loss) 3/4ths of the way through the first lap of my race on Thursday. No harm, no foul, I wasn't ever in contention to begin with, and I picked my way around the course okay (it was so muddy / icy / slick you just could not go fast). I don't have a pit bike so I sucked it up and rode it out, finished ahead of some others and had some excellent dirty fun. Ok it was a bit sketch with no rear brake but you barely use that one anyhow, right?

    My mechanic took one look at the bike back at the tent and marched me right over to the SRAM booth for recall replacement.

    Like I said way up in the beginning of the thread, we both knew we were taking a risk with early adoption. My husband's hydros are still completely fine and he raced 2 events at Nats plus the Boulder Rez "freezer-cross" with zero problems. He'll get them replaced either when they fail or he gets around to it.

    I wish mine still worked. The BB7s are all kinds of vague and mushy in comparison, but it's not enough to ruin the bike for me because it still rides and handles amazingly well.

  36. #86
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    SRAM UPDATE as of this morning, January 15th (I just got this in my email)

    Dear Cyclist with recalled SRAM Road Hydraulic Brakes:

    We want to update you on the progress of our Road Hydraulic Brake Recall. As we have previously announced, we are offering you a mechanical brake system installed at our cost at your favorite Dealer. These systems are being delivered into the market beginning this week. Please contact your Dealer so that they can get the proper parts on order, and they can schedule your replacement.

    In addition to a mechanical brake system, we are offering you the choice to upgrade to our new Model Year 15 hydraulic system, or if you want to keep the mechanical system, we will provide cash reimbursement of US$200 or EUR 150. Please note, our new Model Year 15 hydraulic brakes will be available starting in the second half of April. We hope that you will choose to upgrade and experience the benefits of a great hydraulic braking system.

    The recall process starts with contacting your Dealer who will initiate the replacement and tracking process. Once this has been initiated, SRAM will send an email to you confirming your contact information and replacement logistics. SRAM will reimburse the Dealer directly for installation cost.

    Thanks for your patience and support, and we apologize for this problem.

    SRAM
    I have to say SRAM have been completely aboveboard and gone the extra mile for this. As it turns out (from my last email update) it was not a seal problem as initially thought, there was actually a machining error that led to the master cylinders being very slightly convex in profile. Which of course meant that they will all fail over time as the seals eventually lose enough elasticity to compensate for the added space.

    Kudos to SRAM for being so forthcoming and transparent with the recall process and doing their level best to fix it. Yes we all hoped they'd get it right the first time but this is very new tech and I happen to work in quality assurance... this stuff happens despite your best efforts to prevent it.

    They've also mentioned they're reviewing their entire QA process so I interpret that to mean they're putting more controls in place in their process flow. Which tends to delay things like innovation / flexibility and turnaround times, but everything has a price.

  37. #87
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    Now, if sram/avid could just figure out how to make solid mtb disc brakes I'd be more confident. One can only hope this whole fiasco will force them to spend more time/money/etc developing better hydraulic designs for both the road and mtb side.

  38. #88
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    from my years in engineering firms / military tool and die / biotech startups and pharma I can tell you - you work development programs on multiple axes. You can have innovation and rapid process to market but often at the cost of things like quality control. Or you can have flawless execution that takes a decade from prototype to consumer product. Generally the 2 don't mix well. It's one of the reasons Campagnolo is so cautious and reliable once to market, and SRAM tends to be much more innovative but has had quality control issues. SRAM is the new kid on the block in the bicycle components market and as such they need to bring something to the table that no one else has. I'm not surprised they tend to default towards rapid turnaround in innovation because they need the market share that brings. With it comes a reputation for their stuff being somewhat flakey but based on what I've seen from their mechanical road groups they do an extremely good job of follow up and revision as they receive feedback.

  39. #89
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    and for the record I've ridden the "gold standard" Shimano XT brakes in 8F temperatures and had them completely lock up / pack up on me. Mineral oil is not the best fluid choice for extremely low temps as the viscosity goes thru the roof.

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by lonefrontranger View Post
    just FYI the BB7s feel NOTHING like the hydros and you may be somewhat sad until the full hydro replacements are swapped out.
    I kinda disagree. I've had shimano hydros, avid juicy 7 ultimates, formula megas with 180 up front and 160 in the rear. the megas had most power and best modulation, they were surgical, and really good solid feel to it all. now i run bb7 road, stock pads, shimano slx discs 180/160, cane creek short reach levers, jagwires road brake/shifter kit (I think its the best one). And these feel just as solid, has just as much power, just as slick action and just as good modulation as the megas. Maybe they don't feel exactly the same (but its really close if there is any difference at all) but the end result is just as good as one of the best hydros. If you know how to set up the bb7s and use good cables/wires and lube pivots and use good discs, then its the same crap.
    Last time I used meachanical brakes was when the xtr v's was launched, (last thursday obviously) so my experience setting up mechs were not exactly fresh, but this isn't exactly rocket surgery were talking here.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by lonefrontranger View Post
    and for the record I've ridden the "gold standard" Shimano XT brakes in 8F temperatures and had them completely lock up / pack up on me. Mineral oil is not the best fluid choice for extremely low temps as the viscosity goes thru the roof.
    Its actually usually poblems with the seals in the calipers on shimanos, but the oil isn't exactly helping either. the seals needs to be extended fully and cleaned with booze like 2 times a year, no spares to be had for shimanos hydros either. Mine became completely (90%) unusable at -20C, so I ditched them and never looked back.

    on monday it was -18C here when i rode to work and the bb7s worked totally flawless. these are idiot proof.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  42. #92
    little mad riding hood
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    If you know how to set up the bb7s and use good cables/wires and lube pivots and use good discs, then its the same crap.
    not even close and we're talking a SRAM professional CX pit wrench who works with very finicky riders, plus the pro wrench at my shop (BCS a top pro shop that specializes in CX builds and caters to several national champions). They used jagwire cables and the whole bit and the result is not even close to the SRAM hydros when they were working properly.

    if you have not ridden a cyclocross bike equipped with SRAM hydros then I submit you have no basis for comparison. I have 2 mountain bikes now, have had dozens in the past and have ridden every hydraulic brake system known to man. A cyclocross drop bar bike is not a mountain bike and trust me on skinny tires in dicey conditions, modulation and feel is absolutely critical.

    Despite that mine failed I still represent that the SRAM hydraulic road system was far and away the best CX braking system setup I have ever ridden and I've raced every cross bike configuration known to man since the early 90s, in MTB events, over 20 CX seasons, road races, gravel grinders, mud, ice, snow, rain and sub zero temperatures included.

  43. #93
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    A brake is a brake, and thats it, nothing more to it, I judge a brake for its performance. I'm a "professional wrench" too, but i wrench hydraulic systems costing hundreds of thousands of dollars instead, and I have zero units not working 100% when I'm done wrenching. I'm also a machinist so I could easily build all this **** myself. I build my bikes from the ground up, for myself.

    The last working avid brake was the juicy 7, which was designed by formula.

    I ride my bikes on the road, in all conditions, every day, and these days its mostly ice and snow. Modulation and feel is critical to me too, perhaps even more critical since my life depends on it, power is important too, very important. But power without control is useless and dangerous. At least my bb7s are just as good as my formulas in all aspects, and those are hard to beat. Yes the shimanos I had, had a (slightly) more smooth feel, but that was only because they ultimately lacked power. But then again I set up my bb7s myself since I don't exactly allow people to fiddle with my bikes, nor trust them doing their job right at all. If you want something done right you have to do it yourself. even bikes, especially bikes. imo. ymmv of course.

    What I think is odd is that even when this product failed, its still regarded as a good product. Would it have had to explode and take someones eye out for it to be a bad product? I'm just not seeing how this can be regarded as anything but, well, not so good. but thats just me.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  44. #94
    little mad riding hood
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    What I think is odd is that even when this product failed, its still regarded as a good product. Would it have had to explode and take someones eye out for it to be a bad product? I'm just not seeing how this can be regarded as anything but, well, not so good. but thats just me.
    so from your sig line you're already coming at this thread from a point of contention so thing one: why would I assume that you're willing to meet me halfway on this discussion.

    thing 2 over two dozen CX racers who rode the SRAM hydraulics (whether they had them fail or not) have said the same thing. For 'cross racing, the SRAM hydros were hands down the best braking system they had ever ridden.

    Hydraulics are coming for 'cross and they are desperately needed. Cable discs just are not as powerful, the pads do not wear properly for 'cross racing conditions as they are not self-centering (the heavy mud / grit and super hard punchy repeated braking from 20mph to walking pace over and over and over again through the dozens of corners per lap will lead to pads failing within one lap as happened at Kentucky last year)

    so again, I submit: if you have not ridden a cyclocross bike with the various brake systems in all conditions, you really don't have a basis for comparison. Note that this does not equal me saying "you don't know what you're talking about". You simply do not have the specific knowledge in this niche area to understand why cable brakes, and BB7 in specific, aren't well received in 'cross. They work fine as long as it's dry, which is 90% of the season in Colorado, but the minute our sandy, gritty clay gets wet they WILL fail due to pad wear, and rapidly at that.

    and yes, compared to the SRAM hydros the BB7s feel like crap despite being readjusted and inspected for cable stretch.

  45. #95
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    How are people going with getting replacement mechanicals???

    My bikes been at the shop since late Dec and every time I call it's *sram will get stock any day now*. Tempted to retrieve my bike and take the risk.

    Melbourne, Australia.

    Edit: Aww crap, dealer has removed hydro so no point retrieving bike as it's brakeless. Eta of replacements still unknown
    Last edited by jmpow2; 01-23-2014 at 10:44 PM.

  46. #96
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    My interim mechanical kit arrived at my LBS earlier this week. I may just keep riding my other bike and wait for the new hydros to come in a few months instead of rebuilding, stripping and rebuilding again.
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  47. #97
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    Update: Still no sign of mechanicals... *maybe next week* is the current message from the distributor :-(

  48. #98
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    Mine showed up at the LBS last week. BUT..... when they went to install them the brake cable isn't long enough to go through the Crux frame and does not reach the rear calliper. So now the LBS is trying to search for a tandem cable which is long enough... Not Happy

  49. #99
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    I ended up buying a Crux Evo. I really like the bike but want to replace the Axis 2.0 wheels for something lighter. I would like clincher or tubeless. I would like to drop some weight of the wheelset. The Roval Rapide CLX 40 look incredible, but they have a pretty incredible price as well. Stan's Alpha 340 Disc seems like a pretty good option, and the price is right. What else is out there that you would recommend?

  50. #100
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    Stan's Iron Cross.
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

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