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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluesDawg View Post
    The brakes have plenty of power, but the modulation is what I really like about them. I can get just a bit or lots of stopping power by varying the amount of lever pull. The levers have such long travel that I was sometimes having the shift paddles lock onto the bar tape until I pointed the hoods inward a few degrees, giving the shift paddles more clearance. I want to try bleeding the brakes to see if I can get actuation earlier.
    I Picked up my Expert Red last week and had the first Race of the season today and this bike rocks, Complete mud fest!!! I put it together as I work at the LBS part time and was supper impressed with the brakes! but not so impressed with how they pined the shifter to the bar when you really got on them. I bleed them per the SRAM setup guide, you can watch a video on youtube, and it didn't change anything

    It isn't a bleed/air issue. If you use the spacer blocks like the instructions tell you to do when you put it all back together there is so much room between the rotor and pads it takes half the lever pull just to make contact. Have your bike shop just add a little fluid to the top reservoir in the hood to squeeze the pads down a little while the disk is in the caliper. It makes all the Difference!!! The levers no longer contact the bars

    The only drawback is they now don't have as much clearance for warped rotors and mud. But neither do my Formulas

  2. #27
    little mad riding hood
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKRC78 View Post
    not so impressed with how they pined the shifter to the bar when you really got on them.
    that was discussed upthread actually in 2 different replies. the shop guys who sold us our bikes warned us about this issue. The trick is to cant the levers a bit to the side, not to re-bleed them.

  3. #28
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    I just wanted to know, do the Axis wheels come with rotors?
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  4. #29
    little mad riding hood
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    Quote Originally Posted by erichwic View Post
    I just wanted to know, do the Axis wheels come with rotors?
    Both sets of wheels that came with our Crux Pros came with everything to run both sets of wheels, including tires, QRs and rotors. Only thing they didn't come with was a 2nd cassette on the Roval Carbons (which really isn't a big deal).

    All of the other Crux 2014 Hydro-R models I've seen at the shop sell with the Axis fully built and rotors installed, yes.

  5. #30
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    Wow, that's solid. Mine ships tomorrow. Planning on selling both sets of wheels to make up for some of the expense. When you say 2 sets of tires, what clincher tires does it come with?
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  6. #31
    little mad riding hood
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    Quote Originally Posted by erichwic View Post
    Wow, that's solid. Mine ships tomorrow. Planning on selling both sets of wheels to make up for some of the expense. When you say 2 sets of tires, what clincher tires does it come with?
    Tracer sport wirebeads that weigh about a million pounds. My husband likes the tread pattern and left them on, but I replaced them with the Clements that came off my 2011 Crux. Between swapping out the Tracers and the weird proprietary angleset stem it came with, I easily took a half a kilogram off the bike before even changing out the Axis 2.0s, which are also fairly heavy.

    The Roval Carbons are seriously nice wheels, but I can understand if you don't want the hassle of tubulars. The Terra tubular tires they came with are very nice as well.

    I'll probably get a nicer set of Stan's wheels as my alloy/clincher set at some point, if only to make mounting the Clements tubeless an easier row to hoe.

  7. #32
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    Picked up my Elite disc a couple of weeks ago and love it. A little bit of brake squeal but the power and modulation are great. I wanted the pads to engage the rotors sooner (as discussed earlier in this thread) and went on Specialized's website but there was no manual for the hydro discs. Took it to the shop where I bought it (West End in Houston) and they were able to adjust via adjustment screw accessed I think by pulling the shift paddle inward. I'm away from home for a few days and have no way to verify on the bike and I wish I would have paid closer attention when he did it, but he adjusted to where the shift paddles don't hit the bars anymore and unless I really need a hard stop, I can basically apply plenty of stopping power with just my index finger.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by R. Fink View Post
    ...I wanted the pads to engage the rotors sooner (as discussed earlier in this thread) and went on Specialized's website but there was no manual for the hydro discs. Took it to the shop where I bought it (West End in Houston) and they were able to adjust via adjustment screw accessed I think by pulling the shift paddle inward. I'm away from home for a few days and have no way to verify on the bike and I wish I would have paid closer attention when he did it, but he adjusted to where the shift paddles don't hit the bars anymore and unless I really need a hard stop, I can basically apply plenty of stopping power with just my index finger.
    YES!!! Thanks for posting this. When you pull the shift paddle in toward the bar, you can see a screw that takes a 2.5mm allen. Turning that screw clockwise moves the brake lever out. This fixed my problem and I was able to turn my levers back to the normal straight position with no interference.
    There's only two things in life (but I forget what they are). - John Hiatt

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluesDawg View Post
    YES!!! Thanks for posting this. When you pull the shift paddle in toward the bar, you can see a screw that takes a 2.5mm allen. Turning that screw clockwise moves the brake lever out. This fixed my problem and I was able to turn my levers back to the normal straight position with no interference.
    Yep the lever adjust screw moves it away from the bar but if you want an earlier contact you just have to add a little fluid to the top of the system to squeeze the pads down a little. I had to do this to my rear because I didn't like how far out I had to adjust the lever to keep it from contacting the bar.

  10. #35
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    I love my bike so far but the seatpost slippage has gotten so bad that I can hardly ride it anymore. Somebody else mentioned this problem above. I have put paste on the post and tightened to spec and then far beyond spec but still the same issue. No way I can race on it doing this.

    Any solutions? Maybe try a new carbon post?
    If you ever see a turtle on a telephone pole, remember he had help getting there. Is there anything beer can't do?

  11. #36
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    Does anyone know the difference between the Roval CL40 tubular wheelset and the Roval CLX tubular wheelset listed on the Spesh site?
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckie33 View Post
    I love my bike so far but the seatpost slippage has gotten so bad that I can hardly ride it anymore. Somebody else mentioned this problem above. I have put paste on the post and tightened to spec and then far beyond spec but still the same issue. No way I can race on it doing this.

    Any solutions? Maybe try a new carbon post?
    If you use too much carbon paste it can actually make things worse. Try cleaning the seat post and down tube and use just a little paste. I have not had this problem and have raced the bike 3 times and put several hundred more miles on it so far.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by erichwic View Post
    Does anyone know the difference between the Roval CL40 tubular wheelset and the Roval CLX tubular wheelset listed on the Spesh site?
    guess not.
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  14. #39
    little mad riding hood
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckie33 View Post
    I love my bike so far but the seatpost slippage has gotten so bad that I can hardly ride it anymore. Somebody else mentioned this problem above. I have put paste on the post and tightened to spec and then far beyond spec but still the same issue. No way I can race on it doing this.

    Any solutions? Maybe try a new carbon post?
    mine's not slipping down, agreed on the too much carbon paste idea. However, it is not holding fore/aft tilt adjustment despite torquing to spec. I don't much like it anyhow as those silly elastomer inserts just add weight and reduce functionality (fortunately I'm not among them but I do know several people who can't drop the post low enough as insertion is restricted by the inserts at a spot that seems ridiculously high especially on smaller frames).

    As an aside, I've hated virtually every single bolt seatpost ever made except the old early (heavy!) Campagnolo ones, and this one is no different. I'm going to trade it out for a 3T or something similar in carbon that's based on the tried-and-true Thompson dual bolt concept.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by erichwic View Post
    guess not.
    I believe the CLX is actually a carbon clincher rim, not tubular.

    edit: nope, the CLX appears to be the "S-Works" uber-level, the CL40 is one grade below. From a quick Google Search, Bikeradar says:


    The Specialized Roval wheel line has expanded a bit for 2014, with three new CLX carbon options. The new 40mm CLX 40 tubulars weigh 1,240g, and their 60mm counterparts the CLX 60s weigh 1,330g. A tubular disc CLX 40 is also available at 1,340g.

    There are already clincher and clincher disc wheels in these depths, plus the more affordable CL 40 and CL 60.

  16. #41
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    the only difference is the bearings. The CLX wheels have ceramic bearings. Anyone interested in buying a set of brand new, never used CL40 tubular disc wheels? I'll include the rotors. PM me if interested.
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  17. #42
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    Going ultra max heart rate on a sand dune runup, arcticcross race #5!

    This bike has been unbelievable!! The brakes and drivetrain have worked flawlessly even with sticks and grass completely wrapped up in the cassette. I threw my roval carbon mtb wheels on it and set them up tubeless. Which made it stiffer and more responsive. Specialized knocked it out of the park with this bike!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Your thoughts about the Specialized Crux for 2014 with hydro brakes?-arcticcross2.jpg  


  18. #43
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    Gearing options

    Looking for an extra gear I've fitted an ultegra 6800 11-32, it fits fine with the short cage (b-screw all the way in) No need for the wifli, chain didn't need to be touched either.

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    (I thought about swapping the 36T inner ring for a 34T but the shifting is so good I was reluctant to play with it.)

    Loving this bike! (1st cx, fitted 28mm conti 4 seasons for road work and it's simply awesome)

    14 Crux Expert Red Hydro

  19. #44
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    its kinda odd that the crux expert doesn't have the swork seatpost, but the crux elite evo does ;-)

  20. #45
    little mad riding hood
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckie33 View Post
    Any solutions? Maybe try a new carbon post?
    this is ultimately what I did, as I could not get the OEM fact post to hold / retain angle even torqued above spec - the saddle angle would constantly slip back until I was riding something that resembled a dirt jump / BMX bike, which is no good.

    Cashed in some Amazon points on a new fi'zik Cyrano carbon post with fi'zik Arione R1 saddle. Made an already fabulous bike even more amazing, if that is even possible. The carbon rails on the R1 transmit zero high frequency buzz to my butt. I rode a 3 hour dirt adventure cruise after the cyclocross race at Boulder Rez on Saturday - the local county dirt roads have been reopened to traffic after the flood but they are in very rough shape - big washouts, ruts, massive washboards, sections that have been "repaved" with baseball-sized rip-rap, sand pits, you name it. New saddle and post have transformed an already forgiving bike into a magic carpet. You know you're riding over rough stuff, but somehow there's no transmission through to your spine.

    This made for an excellent ride and better than expected performance at Sunday's Boulder Cup race. I'll never be fast, but I was easily able to pass other girls through the rougher off-camber sections of the very technical course, and with over 100 women on the course (SW 3 / 4 / 35+ and Junior Women 15-18) being able to pass in the uphill offcamber bumps was a necessity. I have to say the compliance and handling was a major control advantage. This bike is absolutely a better bike handler than I am.

    I talked to a guy out at last week's cross race who has the 2013 Crux Pro Disc and he said he sold his road bike in May and raced the Crux in crits, road races and hillclimbs throughout the road season. None of our officials ever said boo about the discs. I'm seriously considering doing this because I have ridden my Record carbon roadie exactly once since I got the Crux.

  21. #46
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    Great thread, my Crux Elite EVO Rival Disc is on order and I hope it comes in this week. Really looking forward to getting it built up and go riding

  22. #47
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    I picked up one of the Evo Rival models last week. Replaced the cranks w/SWorks carbon cranks 34x46, SWorks pave post instead of cobble gobbler, and early version Bulldogs on Arch EX wheels. Absolutely love everything but the shifting. SRAM did away with the trim feature on these shifters, which really irritates me. The brakes are great. Way better than BB-7s or the Avid Ultimates I was running.

    The frame will take a 40mm tire with plenty of clearance, even mounted on the Arch EX rims. After racing it once already and having done a couple of training rides with road tires on the stock wheels, I've decided to sell my SWorks Roubaix and use the new Crux as my everything except XC bike. It really is a Tarmac with crazy clearance.

  23. #48
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    Good job! Best Allrounder!

    Just thought I'd chime in with my own aquisition. Recently took ownership of the CruX EVO and after a month upgraded the following: S-Works Post, Enve Stem, Zipp Service Course SL Bar, SRAM Red Crank and Rear Der, FSA Cross Rings, Rival Front Der, Avid HSX and Rolf Prima Ralos CXC 29 Carbon Wheels. I wrapped the tires in GP 4 Seasons (for my commuting) and put Racing Ralphs on the Axis wheels. Best part was I did the whole upgrade while my 16 mo old twins were taking a nap! #fasthands

    So far, after a month of ownership, I would say this is a fantastic bike. I bought it to commute, haul my kids in their Burley, and ride the local trails and gravel. I have a dedicated road race/training bike so this one had to be a hi-performing all rounder. It totally fits the bill.

    The geometry is spot on for long, 20 mile one way commutes and I can still flick it around the local trails. Fast, light, and balanced are some adjectives i'd use to describe it...as for the Hydros...they're terrific. Much better stopping power than the canti's that were on my CAAD 9 Cross bike earlier this summer. They stop as well as the new DA9070 brakes on my race bike and in the wet they are even better. I would like to have them actuate a bit sooner, but that's a small caveat.

    Your thoughts about the Specialized Crux for 2014 with hydro brakes?-evo.jpg
    You never have the wind with you -- either it is against you or you're having a good day. ~ Daniel Behrman

  24. #49
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    How much did that cost you compared to the $6300 race crux with rovals and more red parts?

  25. #50
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    If i would have paid retail and had to buy all of the parts probably about the same...but I didn't. Except for the wheels and rotors, I already had all of the parts on my shelf. More important to me is to have the frame I want with the parts I want. I don't want tubulars so the wheels are a wash if I buy the Race Red. Only thing I would want to get in the future is the 22spd drivetrain. But until then, my ride is built to fit my body and riding style.
    You never have the wind with you -- either it is against you or you're having a good day. ~ Daniel Behrman

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