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  1. #1
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    Wider Rims or Tubeless?

    So I've been getting more into the monster cross world and have been enjoying off-roading a bunch, but I want to push it further and I feel lower pressure will help my control and my bottom.

    The question is which do you think is a better go to first?

    Currently I am running Alex DA-16 and 18 on 40mm Marathon Mondials.

    What I was thinking of doing was rather getting Velocity A23s (pricier) OR going tubeless (60 dollars vs. 200 dollars).

    What are your thoughts? Should I save up for the rimset first then go tubeless? Or run tubeless while I save my nickels and dimes.
    (New rims would also let me keep a "road set" and an "off road set" at all times, which would be nice).

  2. #2
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    Go tubeless. I set up a HED Ardennes wheel tubeless and love it. I weigh 175 lbs. and have been running a Capt CX 2bliss at 34 psi on the front with no burbs or problems. I could probably go lower psi but haven't tried it yet.

  3. #3
    hispanic mechanic
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    Well, I'd say that upgrading your rims will have many benefits, not least of which ease and effectiveness of going tubeless.
    That being said, it's a fairly expensive upgrade. If you're not interested in racing, and are an adventurous sort, I'd say try converting to tubeless with your current rims using the "ghetto" tubeless method- take a 26" tube with a removeable core (Q-Tubes can be found just about everywhere,) mount it on the rim, then carefully split the outer portion of the tube lengthwise. You'll end up with a tubeless "rimstrip that will be much wider than the rim. mount the tire you plan on using (pour your sealant in before you completely mount the final bead portion!) and air it up. Trim excess tube material carefully with scissors. When you need to add more sealant, just remove the valve core and inject it through there.
    I've found that this method will allow you to set up rims that don't usually play well with tubeless.
    But save your pennies. Wider rims are definitely a big improvement!

    Los
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  4. #4
    jrm
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    you could run the A23s ghetto tubeless. I like my A23s a lot.
    Wreck the malls with cows on Harleys

  5. #5
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    People seem to love A23s. I was thinking of Alpha 400s, but those are only 20mm wide. Are yall really having great success with A23s tubeless or ghetto tubeless? I want to keep rim brakes, so I am not interested in IronCross. Want to race CX and train on the road.

  6. #6
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    A couple guys I know are running Stanís Arch EX 29er rims on their cross setups. Additional inside rim width = lower pressure and slightly fatter tire profile, in addition to being able to run tubeless. 29er = 700c.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leopold Porkstacker View Post
    A couple guys I know are running Stanís Arch EX 29er rims on their cross setups. Additional inside rim width = lower pressure and slightly fatter tire profile, in addition to being able to run tubeless. 29er = 700c.
    That is my setup, ArchEX with the 700x40 Mondials / tubeless:
    - DSCF1446



    Really changed those tires compared to tubes, more traction, lower rolling resistance, lower pressure; running about 28f/30r.

    I had been running a set of narrower (~17-19mm) rims and ended up putting those on my touring bike with 35mm Cyclocross Speed tires / latex tubes and that setup works very well, too:
    - dscf1542

  8. #8
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    I've used the Truckerco syringe to add latex through the Presta valve a number of times with the tire on the rim, it seems like a lot easier method that pouring the latex into the open tires then putting final bead section on the rim, and there's no need to remove the valve core.
    Most of their latex bottles come with the syringe, but it's only $5.59 shipped by itself (no, I don't work for them ) just look in ebay for truckerco, then go to the store and look at the cream tire sealant section.

  9. #9
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    I use the Stanís removable core Presta valves and the supplied 2ounce syringe to put the goop into the tires.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stonerider View Post
    Go tubeless. I set up a HED Ardennes wheel tubeless and love it. I weigh 175 lbs. and have been running a Capt CX 2bliss at 34 psi on the front with no burbs or problems. I could probably go lower psi but haven't tried it yet.
    What did you use to tape the rims? I tried setting up my Clement MXP's / HED Belgian C2's tubeless yesterday, but couldn't get them to seal. I was using Stan's yellow tape. Should I go with Gorilla tape? Thanks!

  11. #11
    hispanic mechanic
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    Wider Rims or Tubeless?

    Quote Originally Posted by chrisgardner73 View Post
    What did you use to tape the rims? I tried setting up my Clement MXP's / HED Belgian C2's tubeless yesterday, but couldn't get them to seal. I was using Stan's yellow tape. Should I go with Gorilla tape? Thanks!
    Not the person you quoted, but I certainly would. Gorilla Tape's thickness will fill the space needed to get you tires to seat.

    Los
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  12. #12
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    I used 2 strips of Stan's 25 wide tape on my Hed Belgian rims...once stretched it fits tight.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sslos View Post
    Not the person you quoted, but I certainly would. Gorilla Tape's thickness will fill the space needed to get you tires to seat.

    Los
    Thanks!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stonerider View Post
    I used 2 strips of Stan's 25 wide tape on my Hed Belgian rims...once stretched it fits tight.
    Thanks!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sslos View Post
    Not the person you quoted, but I certainly would. Gorilla Tape's thickness will fill the space needed to get you tires to seat.

    Los
    I haven't set it up yet but I'm going to try gorilla tape(seal nipple holes), two 26" rim strips (fill in that space), and stans... Read about it on CXmagazine

    Going Tubeless in Cyclocross Racing - Avoiding Burps, Recommended Tires : Cyclocross Magazine - CX News, Races, Photos, Videos | Cyclocross Magazine ‚Äď Cyclocross News, Races, Bikes, Photos, Videos

    "Northern Californiaís perennial top A racer, Cameron Falconer of the Freewheel / Hunter Cycles team, devised his own system before realizing that off-the-shelf tubeless rim strips were available for 700c wheels. He uses two cheap rubber rim strips available for 26″ mountain bike wheels, just wide enough to just fill the width of the road rim. Using one strip on top of the other, he places each stripís valve hole on opposite sides, at 90 degrees from the rimís valve hole. Then he pokes or cuts a small hole for a UST presta valve (used on tubeless mountain bike wheels) and adds Stanís sealant."

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrm View Post
    you could run the A23s ghetto tubeless. I like my A23s a lot.
    unless you're talking the old a23's, not needed. The US made ones are tubeless ready. running mine with 2 layers of stans tape with tubless ready captain cx's in the low 30 psi range.

  17. #17
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    Would love to hear anyone's experience with the brand new WTB Chriscross UST rims. They look like another great choice.

  18. #18
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    Hey, if you guys are using 2 layers of Stan's, doesn't it make more sense to just use one layer of Gorilla tape? I've set up tubeless fine on both. Stan's is lighter, but with doubling up the layers, probably not that much difference. Gorilla tape is a lot cheaper, though.

    For the OP's question, I would go with new rims, personally. I like how wider rims spread out the tire a bit more and with 700x40's, more stable as well. Going tubeless should only cost you $5 for tape and $10 for sealant. I just use a cut up valve (with removeable core) or ask a LBS for a couple, which they usually give for free.

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