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  1. #1
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    Sammy Slick Tire Question

    I have these tires on my CX and I almost always ride on the road/pavement.

    How do I know when the tires are worn and need to be replaced? They are smooth in the center however there must be a way to determine the wear.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    I would guess when the files (diamonds) get totally worn down? Then they would be 'slicks' in the middle. Maybe at that point you would be more prone to road hazards

  3. #3
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    I thought the center portion of the tire never had any treads to speak of and this is my first season with the bike and I am thinking there is about 500 miles on the bike.

    Now I am thinking the Sammy Slick is the wrong tire for a CX tire that will be ridden on Pavement?

  4. #4
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    This is what mine look like
    Google Image Result for http://velopiter.spb.ru/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=108246&private=0

    Why do you think you need a cross tire for road?
    If it is width, for ride comfort Bontrager has wide road tires
    Bontrager: AW1 Hard-Case Lite (Model #10959)

  5. #5
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    The CX bike came with the Sammy Slicks and I told the sales person in my LBS I was primarily riding on pavement but occasionally would like to be able to ride on stone dust or hard packed surfaces.

    Now I am thinking I have the wrong tires on the bike? The Bontrager AW1 hard-case would be well suited for my use?

  6. #6
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    Glad I dropped into this thread...

    I do a lot of road riding. The deal with road tires is that the tread doesn't do anything. Some road tires don't even have a tread.

    You can ride a bicycle tire until the casing starts to show through the tread. Probably take you 3000+ miles, depending on tire compound.

    For road bikes, I'm fond of the Continental Grand Prix 4000. It demands a little finesse on crushed limestone or dirt. I think that tires like the AW1 are overkill for most of us. How often do you ever actually damage the sidewalls on your road tires? I do think some puncture protection under the tread is good, but IME, whatever that brand's usual puncture belt is is enough.

    If the Sammy Slicks aren't bothering you, you can wait until you wear them out.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickcin View Post
    I thought the center portion of the tire never had any treads to speak of and this is my first season with the bike and I am thinking there is about 500 miles on the bike.

    Now I am thinking the Sammy Slick is the wrong tire for a CX tire that will be ridden on Pavement?
    the bigger (and seemingly obvious question - not trying to be a smart ass) is why are you riding a cx tire on pavement?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt Disney's Frozen Head View Post
    the bigger (and seemingly obvious question - not trying to be a smart ass) is why are you riding a cx tire on pavement?
    Basically two reasons, I am fairly large, not fat but about 215 and i was thinking the CX is a little more meaty. The second reason, my mtn bike is a FS so I was thinking the CX would would good to have when on various rail trays that are combination pavement and stone dust.

    I really do like the bike, I had the canti brakes taken off and went with miniTRP's so just wondering what tires would be best for my riding?
    Last edited by rickcin; 11-03-2013 at 05:25 PM.

  9. #9
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    OP, my first post includes why I think the Bontragers you linked to are overkill and what tire I'd recommend. You could go with the Conti Gatorskin or Ultra Sport if you wanted to go wider than 25 mm.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    OP, my first post includes why I think the Bontragers you linked to are overkill and what tire I'd recommend. You could go with the Conti Gatorskin or Ultra Sport if you wanted to go wider than 25 mm.
    I think I follow now and realize that the 700 size is the same as a 622 which is what my Sammy Slick is 622X35 and 28X1.35 which means 35 mm wide. I imagine my ride will be slightly different since the wider tires on the bike require less air so it partially cushions the ride.
    I would guess I should replace both tires at the same time even though the front tire has much less wear than the rear?

    Thanks!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    Glad I dropped into this thread...

    OP, my first post includes why I think the Bontragers you linked to are overkill
    Glad you showed up. Which feature is overkill?
    Features
    AW design offers consisent braking and cornering traction in all weather conditions with low rolling resistance
    Hard-Case Lite - Lightweight sub-tread material protects against punctures
    Replaces the popular Race All Weather tire
    Unconditional Bontrager Guarantee

  12. #12
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    Nothing wrong with overkill if you are not overpaying and not sacrificing in another area!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickcin View Post
    I think I follow now and realize that the 700 size is the same as a 622 which is what my Sammy Slick is 622X35 and 28X1.35 which means 35 mm wide. I imagine my ride will be slightly different since the wider tires on the bike require less air so it partially cushions the ride.
    I would guess I should replace both tires at the same time even though the front tire has much less wear than the rear?

    Thanks!
    The larger tire would give you a more supple ride. But be heavier and slower on road.
    On changing both, depends on your budget, etc. Sammy would give more traction off road in turns. By the sounds of it like Andrw said, just keep running til you go bald. Bontrager has a selection called LT (light trail) that they put on their hybrids.
    Bontrager: Products > Components > Tires

  14. #14
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    Great learning experience and I think I have it now. The main difference is the pavement tires are going to be harder and provide better rolling resistance and better longevity than using a trail tire on pavement.

    I do like and have had good experiences with Bontrager products and the tire you recommended is very reasonable.

    Thanks again!

  15. #15
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    What are your thoughts regarding the Bontrager H2 or H5 ? I am an older rider, usually always riding pavement either on the street or on paved rail trails. A recreational rider looking to get exercise and enjoy being outside.

    Thanks

  16. #16
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    Double flat protection under the tread, sidewall protection. I have a soft spot for supple tires. I think they roll smoother and faster, both of which I enjoy. I also enjoy not changing flats, but I don't fear changing flats. It's just an annoyance.

    I think one layer of puncture protection, under the tread, is enough. More than that just makes a slower tire.

    This is all about your priorities. If I got flats more often with my current tires, I'd probably feel differently.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickcin View Post
    What are your thoughts regarding the Bontrager H2 or H5 ? I am an older rider, usually always riding pavement either on the street or on paved rail trails. A recreational rider looking to get exercise and enjoy being outside.

    Thanks
    I take it you are on 26" rims. You would be happy with either.

    'Looks' like H2 may be a 'little' more road worthy. But, H2 does not appear to be "hard case" for flat prevention in 2.0 width. Unless 'deluxe compound' includes 'hard case'
    maybe contact Bontrager Bontrager: support

    H5 obviously heavier tire. I have friend who recommended "hard case lite" to me and he rides 1000's a year w/ no flats. I use same on road training tires. FYI: Do not believe Sammy's have any type of 'special' flat protection, if you are having puncture problems anyway. - Like Andrw says above

    To many choices....Let me know

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    Double flat protection under the tread, sidewall protection. I have a soft spot for supple tires. I think they roll smoother and faster, both of which I enjoy. I also enjoy not changing flats, but I don't fear changing flats. It's just an annoyance.

    I think one layer of puncture protection, under the tread, is enough. More than that just makes a slower tire.

    This is all about your priorities. If I got flats more often with my current tires, I'd probably feel differently.
    I see your point, agree on ride quality and appreciate your input.

    Tires I originally recommend were 'standard' 'lite' single layer flat protection.
    "Hard-Case Lite - Lightweight sub-tread material protects against punctures"
    Bontrager: AW1 Hard-Case Lite (Model #10959)

    I could see how easily this could be confused with "Hard-Case Ultimate - Dual layer sub-tread material and sidewall reinforcement virtually eliminate punctures and cuts"

    Clear disclosure: I am sponsored by Trek/Bontrager

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    Double flat protection under the tread, sidewall protection. I have a soft spot for supple tires. I think they roll smoother and faster, both of which I enjoy. I also enjoy not changing flats, but I don't fear changing flats. It's just an annoyance.

    I think one layer of puncture protection, under the tread, is enough. More than that just makes a slower tire.

    This is all about your priorities. If I got flats more often with my current tires, I'd probably feel differently.
    I totally agree with your thinking and agree with a softer tire that somewhat cushions the ride.
    Your first recommendation was for the Bontrager AW!, what do you think about the H2 ? Might give a better ride than the AW1? Thanks

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottz123 View Post
    I take it you are on 26" rims. You would be happy with either.


    To many choices....Let me know
    My current tire size is 700x35c 28x1.35 so not sure if that means 26" rims?

  21. #21
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    Re: Sammy Slick Tire Question

    Tire sizes are a bit of a nightmare. There are three sizing systems at work here.

    700C is an old French tire size. 700 mm was the outer diameter of a tire. Rims don't mate with the outer diameter, however, and the part of that size that has become a standard is the diameter of the bead. That's 622 mm, and you may see tires advertised that way too.

    28" is a measurement that some Northern European countries that aren't France used to refer to the same tire.

    35 mm and 1.35" are the same width, or close enough. Just different units of measurement.

    There's an organization called the ETRTO that has tried to standardize this stuff. They've standardized on using the bead seat diameter (BSD.) Their sizing system is pretty authoritative and most tires, tubes and rims include it on the labeling. But people don't really use it to talk to each other or shop. They'd describe your tires as 622-35.

    26" is the outer diameter of the cruiser tire that goes on the wheels that have become standard(ish) for mountain bikes. The bead is only 559 mm and they are NOT cross-compatible with 700C.

    The most common name for your rim size is 700C. On a tire or tube, 700 is a nominal size and the second number is the width in millimeters on some test rim at the factory. You can put most tires that are 700x?? on your rims, though very wide tires, like for a 29er, may not fit in your frame and may sit funny on your rims. Anyway, stick with 700C tires and you're good.

    Some hybrids have wide enough rims to make 23 mm tires a marginal fit. Doesn't sound like you want tires that skinny, so it's a non-issue. But if it comes up in future, find out how wide your rims are.

    Hope that helps. If not, Sheldon Brown has an article on tire sizing that gets more in depth and has some good tables.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickcin View Post
    I totally agree with your thinking and agree with a softer tire that somewhat cushions the ride.
    Your first recommendation was for the Bontrager AW!, what do you think about the H2 ? Might give a better ride than the AW1? Thanks
    Does not sound like you can go wrong with H2 700, plenty of choices in width's and level's of flat protection - even reflective sidewall if you find yourself riding in low light conditions (no experience myself with reflective sidewalls). Bontrager: H2 700C (Model #11523)

    On previous post, I was mistakenly thinking you were on 26" bike...

  23. #23
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    I will go with that tire and just to understand the difference between the Hard Case Lie & Hard Case Ultimate, I guess the ultimate is a heavier more puncture resistant tire?

    If that is the difference I guess I should go with the stronger tire since I am a recreational rider?

    Thanks again for all of your guidance!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rickcin View Post
    I will go with that tire and just to understand the difference between the Hard Case Lie & Hard Case Ultimate, I guess the ultimate is a heavier more puncture resistant tire?

    If that is the difference I guess I should go with the stronger tire since I am a recreational rider?

    Thanks again for all of your guidance!
    I guess it depends on if you have been having flat problems and where you ride. If you are in a urban area (broken glass, etc). Nothing is really flat proof, I honestly flated w/ lite first time out by a piece of what looked like wire. Slow leak, I did not notice till next day. I have road probably 1k+ since w/ no problems. My co-worker has road thousand's w. no flats riding on side of highway roads w/lite.

    If you have not been having multiple flat problems, I would go with lite.

  25. #25
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    We're almost all recreational riders. Decide whether you'll have more fun with a "faster" tire, or if you feel like it'll flat too often.

    I flat very rarely (knock wood) with my skinny little training clinchers and their one layer of flat protection. It seems I'm more likely to flat by plowing into a square-edged hit or tearing off a valve stem lately. Which is why I don't get tires with an extra puncture belt.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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