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  1. #126
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    Congrats! I'm sure you'll love it.

    You painted your fork and frame? Looks good.

    Let me know if you have any questions about the 1x10 conversion. It's pretty straightforward.

  2. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by tychoseven View Post
    Congrats! I'm sure you'll love it.

    You painted your fork and frame? Looks good.

    Let me know if you have any questions about the 1x10 conversion. It's pretty straightforward.
    Thanks, I'm loving it so far.

    For the right side of the fork and the frame I used Plasti dip. It goes on like a thick matte spray paint, but is easy to peel off if I want to go back to the stock look. It's cool stuff and is holding up well.

    So far for my conversion I have a microshift white series ten speed derailleur, and bar end shifters. I'm planning on picking up a wolf tooth chainring next paycheck.

    I live in Oklahoma which is fairly flat, but I do find myself riding into 30mph headwinds pretty regularly, and I want to use my Furley off road as well. I'm planning on running an 11-28 cassette, what size chainring would you recommend?

  3. #128
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    I'm using the stock 39t chainring with an 11-28 cassette. I live in the South Bay, CA; wind isn't usually an issue, but there are some hills, to say the least. I find the gearing a bit lacking on both the top and bottom ends, but it's 90% of what I need. I'd guess you could do a 42t chainring and see how that works for you.

  4. #129
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    Furley owners, I have a question.

    I've got about 350 miles on my bike now, and haven't exprienced any issues with skipping or dropped a chain or anything, but when I looked at it today, it looks like my chain 'has' slackened up the tiniest bit.

    When looking at it from the side, you can see the slightest bit of sag in it (nothing like the OP's chain on the first page). When I measure on the bottom side of the chain, I'm getting just under 3/4" of slack.

    My question: how much is too much?

    Also, is adjusting tension as easy as loosening the two bolts on the non-drive side and grabbing the BB and turning it? I can get to both bolts without removing the crank, but will I still need ot remove it for some other reason?

    I'm hoping I can just leave it alone since I haven't had any issues (yet).

    I also wanted to add that I sold off my gears, and this is now my only bike.

    Thanks!

  5. #130
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    Im looking to make my Furley a 1x10 and have a few questions.

    I have a Sram TT500 bar end shifter and a Sram X9 ten speed rear derailleur, will a MTN bike derailleur work with those bar ends?

    Do I need to change out the chainring or will the chain just keep falling off? I've heard about the wolf tooth ring, will that fit on the stock cranks?

    Since I have Sram for both shifter and derailleur should I also stick with a Sram cassette and chain?

  6. #131
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    Shinkers. All you have to do is loosen the 2 bolts on the non drive side and rotate the B.B. you do not have to remove the crank. When I tighten my chain i use a ball end allen wrench.

    Rotate the B.B. until the chain is snug you dont want any slack in the chain or there is a chance of dropping it.

  7. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by n8keener View Post
    Im looking to make my Furley a 1x10 and have a few questions.

    I have a Sram TT500 bar end shifter and a Sram X9 ten speed rear derailleur, will a MTN bike derailleur work with those bar ends?

    Do I need to change out the chainring or will the chain just keep falling off? I've heard about the wolf tooth ring, will that fit on the stock cranks?

    Since I have Sram for both shifter and derailleur should I also stick with a Sram cassette and chain?

    I ran my furley as a 1x9 for a short time and used the stock chain ring with no problem. A bash guard on the outside and a chain keeper on the inside you will be fine.

  8. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADV View Post
    Shinkers. All you have to do is loosen the 2 bolts on the non drive side and rotate the B.B. you do not have to remove the crank. When I tighten my chain i use a ball end allen wrench.

    Rotate the B.B. until the chain is snug you dont want any slack in the chain or there is a chance of dropping it.
    Okay, I'll tighten it a bit.

    Today's the first day I've noticed it, I'm not sure how long it's been like that. If I've been riding it that way, could I have done any damage as far as excessive wear or anything like that?

  9. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Okay, I'll tighten it a bit.

    Today's the first day I've noticed it, I'm not sure how long it's been like that. If I've been riding it that way, could I have done any damage as far as excessive wear or anything like that?
    No you have not done any damage riding with a loose chain. I would suggest picking up a chain guage to keep an eye on how much your chain stretches. If you keep a good chain on your bike the chainring and cog will last longer.

  10. #135
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    Okay, thanks! I just went out and tightened it. Much easier than I thought, literally loosen bolts, turn BB a bit, tighten bolts, check tension.

  11. #136
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    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_1569.jpg
    I think you guys might get a kick out of this. Here's the Furley pushbike I put together for the kids I work with.

  12. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by WMegginson View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think you guys might get a kick out of this. Here's the Furley pushbike I put together for the kids I work with.
    that is awesome!!

  13. #138
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    Has anyone else noticed a lot of sound coming from the Promax brakes on these bikes?

    I switched over to Kool Stop pads, and the sound went away for maybe a day, but now any time I apply moderate pressure to either brake I get some squealing (low and high in pitch) as well as some slight vibration.

    I've resanded the pads/rotors, and cleaned everything.

    I want to get BB7's next off season, but was hoping to make these last through this season.

    I read something on here about some people having success putting blue painters tape on the back of their pads. Anyone tried this with success here? I may try it just cause it'd be an easy fix if it worked...

    They're not rubbing, and it only happens with moderate to heavy brake pressure. If I lightly grab the brakes and take a hundred yards to stop, they work fine .

  14. #139
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    I dunno Shrinkers, but my BB7s squeal like a chorus of hungry children. For some reason, the brakes on the Furley have always been loud. I've changed out both the rotors and calipers, but they're still noisy. I have an identical setup (BB7 calipers, EBC gold pads, Avid G2 rotors) on my hardtail and it's silent.

    On another note, does anybody recommend wheelset upgrades? Something that's lighter than stock, but reasonably sturdy...perhaps the Stans line?

  15. #140
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    Good to know. I'm gonna try the painters tape thing as soon as I remember to.

    Is the stopping power still good with the BB7's? I can lock my tires up if I try to, but no amount of adjustment will get rid of the spongy feel.

  16. #141
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    Shrinkers, if the brakes feel spongy I'd recommend taking off the interrupter levers on the flat part of the handlebars. I haven't had the trouble with my brakes that you seem to be having, but when I took those levers off, the brakes had a much better feel.

  17. #142
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    I may give that a try. Do I need anything to do it? Or can I simply take them off? I'm not all that familiar with how they actually work, so don't know if I need another ferrule or something like that.

    I did put the painters tape on my pads, and it really helped with the noise.

  18. #143
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    Since the levers take up about an inch of what would be cable housing, I'd recommend getting some inline cable adjusters. I unfortunately spent $40 on brand new cable housing, redid everything, and lost the easy on-the-fly brake adjustment at the handlebars.

    On a brighter note, I finally got all the parts together for my 1x10 conversion and it's awesome! I went with a 42t Wolftooth front chainring, an 11-28 cassette, and microshift derailleur and bar end shifter. I come from a skateboarding background, and my other bike is a Bianchi Pista, so having gears is a new and fun experience for me.

    Anyway, here are some pics of the work in progress.
    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2137.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2138.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2139.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2141.jpg

  19. #144
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    I've had my Furly for like 3 or 4 months now and am finally going in to get fit . I figure I'll probably take advantage of the free first tuneup at the same time. While the bike is in there I'm thinking of having them swap out the brakes for BB7's, getting rid of the cross-top levers, switch the tires over to Marathons or Gator Skins or something, and go up a tooth or two in the rear.

    My question, is it worth it this early on? All of the stuff on the bike has plenty of life left in it, but I'd rather have some smoother/better tires (not all that big of a fan of these), better brakes, and I'm really wanting to gear it down a bit. I just don't know if I should before I wear the stuff out that's on it before I start upgrading.

    It's sad to think that the bike is only 3-4 months old and already as scratched up as it is .

  20. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    I've had my Furly for like 3 or 4 months now and am finally going in to get fit . I figure I'll probably take advantage of the free first tuneup at the same time. While the bike is in there I'm thinking of having them swap out the brakes for BB7's, getting rid of the cross-top levers, switch the tires over to Marathons or Gator Skins or something, and go up a tooth or two in the rear.

    My question, is it worth it this early on? All of the stuff on the bike has plenty of life left in it, but I'd rather have some smoother/better tires (not all that big of a fan of these), better brakes, and I'm really wanting to gear it down a bit. I just don't know if I should before I wear the stuff out that's on it before I start upgrading.

    It's sad to think that the bike is only 3-4 months old and already as scratched up as it is .
    eBay the parts to help defray the cost of new parts.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  21. #146
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    But do you think it'd be better to wear out what I have some more? Or should I just jump in and start putting the stuff I want on it?

  22. #147
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    I swapped out the brakes and took the cross top levers off with in the first few weeks. But I had the parts at home in a box.

    I think the best upgrade I did was to go with salsa cowbell bars.

  23. #148
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    Okay. So the only other question I have is, is it a bad idea to swap out that many components after a fitting? I'd be doing brakes, tires, and a larger cog.

    Trying to decide if I want to put the money into my Furley or get it a SS MTB brother...

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Okay. So the only other question I have is, is it a bad idea to swap out that many components after a fitting? I'd be doing brakes, tires, and a larger cog.

    Trying to decide if I want to put the money into my Furley or get it a SS MTB brother...

    Larger cog? If you are putting slicks on it and want more speed you will need a smaller cog in the back. Stock is 18 try a 16 thats an easy swap.

  25. #150
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    Nope. I'm not looking for speed. I'm looking to climb some of the hills around here without my heart jumping out of my chest and running away only half a mile in. I know, ride more. But I really think I'm in decent shape and more than a couple miles of 5-8% has me panting pretty good.

    The slicks are mostly for better tread life and better puncture protection. I've run Marathons before and love them. I've had two flats already with the current CX tires on there.

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