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  1. #101
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    Bump. Anyone else got any input on whether or not I'm on the right track with this BB?

  2. #102
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    That's what my BB looks like too; I'm pretty sure it's normal.

  3. #103
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    Okay, I have one more question. Have any of you guys rust proofed your frames? I've heard both sides and am trying to decide if I should do anything with mine. I'm a fair-weather rider, but you never know if you'll get caught in a summer thunder storm or ride on a wet road. I do not want to take the bike apart (don't have the tools, or the ability), and had initially planned on not doing anything, but I've got a couple of small chips in the paint around my BB and the spoke holder on the chain stay.

    Anyways, just wondering what you guys did (if anything).

    Thanks!

  4. #104
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    Yo furley owners... I'm thinking about putting a standard MTB flat bar on my furley. Would a standard mtb brake lever (avid speed dials probably) work ok with the stock disc brakes? Or would i need a different lever or different brake all together?

  5. #105
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    Okay, so to prove to you guys that I'm not a whining liar, here's a couple pics of my very own Furley.

    Yesterday it was finally not raining, so I got to take it out for its virgin ride.

    Yessir, I think she'll do just fine. This thing feels like a tank. Yeah, it's heavy, but I actually like the feel of throwing the weight around a bit, it's hard to explain. Coming from riding an aluminum Giant Defy 1, this thing gives the impression of "mowing" down the road under the tires. The 35c tires are a god-send when it comes to chip-seal and cracks in the road. I don't know if it's the tires, or the steel frame, or both, but the bike feels very smooth.

    I was genuinely suprised with how much I liked the stock gearing. I thought for sure I'd be dropping down to 16 teeth in the back, but for general riding around with a bit of up and down, the 18 is doing me just fine. I can comfortably cruise at 18-19 mph, and climbing isn't a total killer.

    After some adjustment, the brakes aren't as horrendous as I had anticipated either. Sure, they're not the greatest out there, but they stop the bike, and don't rub. That's all that I ask. Being a mech. they're easy to adjust which was a massive plus for me. I love mech. disc brakes.

    The bars feel just right, and I really like the Tektro levers. They are narrower than STI hoods, which feels very comfortable in my hands.

    The only thing that I wasn't totally happy with, was the saddle, but maybe it'll grow on me. If not, I'll get a different

    The main reason I bought this bike, was for durability, and my ability to actually wrench on it. This bike feels very solid and the setup is more in line with my abilities, I'm not afraid to work on it and upgrade down the road.

    Anyways, as a do-everything bike, I think it fits the bill nicely.

    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-sam_0508_zpsc54861a5.jpg

    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-sam_0511_zps18a0184e.jpg

    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-sam_0512_zps6f5de640.jpg

  6. #106
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    i love the blue. looks awesome.

  7. #107
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    I think the next thing it needs is a blue Charge Spoon saddle on it. Would match the frame exactly...

  8. #108
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    Furley owners, thought I'd throw out a heads-up to anyone who is still running the Promax brakes.

    I had been messing with the inner pad adjustment, to get enough clearance so the brakes wouldn't rub while turning, or going hard in the paint.

    Today, on a quick decent, my rear started making some horrendous noises and vibrating a bit. When I got to the bottom of the hill I checked it out and noticed what the problem was. I had adjusted the inner pad too far outward, and the rotor was partially hitting the actual caliper housing. There's a bit of a bur on the caliper, and my rotor now has a nice little stripe running down the inside of it.

    I quickly corrected this (moved pad out, and recentered caliper, and all is well, but they are now noisy. I moved my front inner pad in as well, and it's also noiser than before. Both seem to be functioning just fine now, but cry like a spanked toddler when you really lay on them.

    Just a word to the wise, don't be stupid like me and turn that inside pad all the way out.

    Not gouged, just a roughish stripe on the inside of the rotor. I'm hoping that now the caliper is adjust correctly, the pads will wear that stripe down a bit at least.

    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-pic-02202014-002_zps3e5c4a8e.jpg
    Last edited by Shinkers; 02-20-2014 at 08:37 PM.

  9. #109
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    this might be a brake forum question, but i'll try here first...

    thinking about putting a flat bar on, and getting some avid speed dial levers. will they work ok with the stock brake calipers? or will there not be enough pull from the speed dials to properly engage them? if the speed dials won't work, can anyone recommend a level that will work on a flat bar?

  10. #110
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    decided to change things up a bit this year. upgraded the brakes to some bb7's, changed out the bar to a flat carbon (600mm), new shimano brake levers, and some new grips.

    i just finished installing the parts, so i have almost no saddle time with the new setup, but my brief shake out ride proved to be fun. i think i will dig the new position for the year. i was never sold on drops, i just never use the drop position much, and since i'm a mountain biker at heart, going to a more "mountain" stance seemed like it would be worth a try. i like the LOOK of drops, but functionally ive always felt ackward on them. we'll see how it pans out in the long run. it would be easy to swap the bars back on and go back to what i had.

    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-20140313_210053656_ios.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-20140313_210109348_ios.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-20140313_210145942_ios.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-20140313_210151907_ios.jpg

  11. #111
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    Looks great! Sleek and minimal, just the way it should.
    The BB7s are worlds better than the stock calipers, you'll love them.

  12. #112
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    Whats the fattest rear tire anyone has been able to run so far ?

  13. #113
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    Quick question after I ACTUALLY went through the pages of the thread, I see two cables, four levers, are all levers capable of braking? In all grip positions? If so can you please elaborate on the cable splicing process or how your braking system works?
    P.S. like your spring plan ideas with the flat bar
    Mamma speed I'm back!!!

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by proline69 View Post
    Whats the fattest rear tire anyone has been able to run so far ?
    Continental Cross Ride 700 x42c barely fits in the rear. tons of clearence in the front. il try to post pics later tonight
    Last edited by AMPERSAK; 03-24-2014 at 05:11 PM. Reason: quote missing

  15. #115
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    Thought I'd add some more of my experience with this bike...

    Two weeks ago, I loaded up and went for a Sunday cruise that ended up being 74 miles when I pulled back into my drive way. This bike, while being a bit more aggressive than my Defy, is extremely comfortable to ride. I stopped every 20 miles or so to stretch out and go to the bathroom if needed, but it's a pleasure to sit down and spin. It also feels pretty good to take a 35+lb. loaded bike out and pass 8 different cyclists on their high priced/lightweight bikes while going uphill.

    On the ride out I was heading straight into a headwind that was mostly just annoying, but did slow my speed down substanstially, averaging only about 14 mph. Coming home, with the wind at my back I was averaging 19 mph with the stock gearing. Still suprises the hell out of me, as I was convinced I wanted to go smaller in the back. I have no need to, and will actually be going bigger when it's time for a new chain so I can spin up even more hills.

    I did switch out the stock brake pads for some Kool-stop pads, and it made a huge difference. I plan to keep running the stock brakes for the rest of the season. Next winter I'll put some Avids on and mess with the gearing a bit. I'm hoping the tires will make it through the season too. I love Schwalbe tires, but these CX pro things are wearing a bit on the quick side, and not the thickest. I'd prefer Marathons.

    My frame's got a lot more scratches now, but I think I'm finally past the "it's new, don't f#*@ it up" stage . Now I'm hopping potholes, slamming up hills, and having a blast.

    I love this bike.

  16. #116
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    woooo furley, taken today. 2nd 50 degree day of the year

    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-20140330_212806473_ios.jpg

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by freaknunu View Post
    Quick question after I ACTUALLY went through the pages of the thread, I see two cables, four levers, are all levers capable of braking? In all grip positions? If so can you please elaborate on the cable splicing process or how your braking system works?
    P.S. like your spring plan ideas with the flat bar
    It's a single cable, but each brake has two levers so you have access to brakes in multiple hand positions. The cable passes through the bar-top levers on its way to the brifters. I've noticed some people despise bartops, but I like them and haven't found they degrade lever feel.

  18. #118
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    Anybody running fenders on their Furley? I'm looking for some that'll fit my Marathons at 37mm.

    It almost seems a shame that my Furley's become my commuter. First I added gears, then lights, and now I'm looking for fenders. What's next, a rack? I feel like I've betrayed the simplicity of its stock, uncluttered state.

  19. #119
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    I love my rack, and use it every ride. I carry a trunk bag stocked with food, spares, and enough tools to tear apart a Chevy 350 .

  20. #120
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    Yeah, but do you have fenders?

    I may end up with a rack at some point. So much for my dream of the minimalist singlespeed! I guess this means I need to get another so I'll have the fun bike, and the business bike.

  21. #121
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    I have planet bike fenders on mine. Not sure what model they are because they came with my furley when I got it. They fit with the stock tires fine bit I did not try anything bigger.

    This is a great bike. I just put a set of salsa cow bell 2 bars on and I really like them.

  22. #122
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    If I want to change out the 18 tooth freewheel, is it as simple as just buying another freewheel? The 18 just isn't enough gearing for me, even in SF and Marin. I need a 16t. However, it doesn't look like a normal setup. It looks like some kind of geared conversion kit.

    Attachment 883876

  23. #123
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    The hub is a 9 speed with a sprocket and spacer kit. So all you need is a different sprocket. If you go with something wider like a surly cog you will also need a different spacer Kit.

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADV View Post
    The hub is a 9 speed with a sprocket and spacer kit. So all you need is a different sprocket. If you go with something wider like a surly cog you will also need a different spacer Kit.
    Thanks for your input!

    Actually, you mean, literally, just a sprocket. No freehub. I get it now.

    I ended up going with the Endless Bike Kick Ass cog in 17t. I thought I was going to buy a 16t but then after 3,500 ft of climbing, I thought better of it. I also bought the Fabonacci spacers in gold as the cog is in blue. Should look nice against the baby blue paint of the Furley.

    I had a nicer, longer 110cm stem just laying around from a prior project that I threw on which gives me a better reach, and I'll be switching out these road pedals for blue Candy's at the end of the month. Even though I ordered road tires for it, now I think that was a mistake. Loving this thing on the trails. The Schwalbe's even feel pretty nice on the road.

    Last edited by The Human G-Nome; 04-11-2014 at 04:52 PM.

  25. #125
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    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2023.jpg

    Hello everyone. I've been lurking on this thread for a while and it was very helpful and definitely played a part me in purchasing my Furley.

    I haven't done too much to it yet, just a surly 16t cog, and plastidip on the parts of the frame and fork that tend to get scratches from locking it up.

    I am slowly gathering the parts to convert it to a 1x10 and I'll let ya'll know how that goes.

    Thanks again for the information, and happy riding.

  26. #126
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    Congrats! I'm sure you'll love it.

    You painted your fork and frame? Looks good.

    Let me know if you have any questions about the 1x10 conversion. It's pretty straightforward.

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by tychoseven View Post
    Congrats! I'm sure you'll love it.

    You painted your fork and frame? Looks good.

    Let me know if you have any questions about the 1x10 conversion. It's pretty straightforward.
    Thanks, I'm loving it so far.

    For the right side of the fork and the frame I used Plasti dip. It goes on like a thick matte spray paint, but is easy to peel off if I want to go back to the stock look. It's cool stuff and is holding up well.

    So far for my conversion I have a microshift white series ten speed derailleur, and bar end shifters. I'm planning on picking up a wolf tooth chainring next paycheck.

    I live in Oklahoma which is fairly flat, but I do find myself riding into 30mph headwinds pretty regularly, and I want to use my Furley off road as well. I'm planning on running an 11-28 cassette, what size chainring would you recommend?

  28. #128
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    I'm using the stock 39t chainring with an 11-28 cassette. I live in the South Bay, CA; wind isn't usually an issue, but there are some hills, to say the least. I find the gearing a bit lacking on both the top and bottom ends, but it's 90% of what I need. I'd guess you could do a 42t chainring and see how that works for you.

  29. #129
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    Furley owners, I have a question.

    I've got about 350 miles on my bike now, and haven't exprienced any issues with skipping or dropped a chain or anything, but when I looked at it today, it looks like my chain 'has' slackened up the tiniest bit.

    When looking at it from the side, you can see the slightest bit of sag in it (nothing like the OP's chain on the first page). When I measure on the bottom side of the chain, I'm getting just under 3/4" of slack.

    My question: how much is too much?

    Also, is adjusting tension as easy as loosening the two bolts on the non-drive side and grabbing the BB and turning it? I can get to both bolts without removing the crank, but will I still need ot remove it for some other reason?

    I'm hoping I can just leave it alone since I haven't had any issues (yet).

    I also wanted to add that I sold off my gears, and this is now my only bike.

    Thanks!

  30. #130
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    Im looking to make my Furley a 1x10 and have a few questions.

    I have a Sram TT500 bar end shifter and a Sram X9 ten speed rear derailleur, will a MTN bike derailleur work with those bar ends?

    Do I need to change out the chainring or will the chain just keep falling off? I've heard about the wolf tooth ring, will that fit on the stock cranks?

    Since I have Sram for both shifter and derailleur should I also stick with a Sram cassette and chain?

  31. #131
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    Shinkers. All you have to do is loosen the 2 bolts on the non drive side and rotate the B.B. you do not have to remove the crank. When I tighten my chain i use a ball end allen wrench.

    Rotate the B.B. until the chain is snug you dont want any slack in the chain or there is a chance of dropping it.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by n8keener View Post
    Im looking to make my Furley a 1x10 and have a few questions.

    I have a Sram TT500 bar end shifter and a Sram X9 ten speed rear derailleur, will a MTN bike derailleur work with those bar ends?

    Do I need to change out the chainring or will the chain just keep falling off? I've heard about the wolf tooth ring, will that fit on the stock cranks?

    Since I have Sram for both shifter and derailleur should I also stick with a Sram cassette and chain?

    I ran my furley as a 1x9 for a short time and used the stock chain ring with no problem. A bash guard on the outside and a chain keeper on the inside you will be fine.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADV View Post
    Shinkers. All you have to do is loosen the 2 bolts on the non drive side and rotate the B.B. you do not have to remove the crank. When I tighten my chain i use a ball end allen wrench.

    Rotate the B.B. until the chain is snug you dont want any slack in the chain or there is a chance of dropping it.
    Okay, I'll tighten it a bit.

    Today's the first day I've noticed it, I'm not sure how long it's been like that. If I've been riding it that way, could I have done any damage as far as excessive wear or anything like that?

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Okay, I'll tighten it a bit.

    Today's the first day I've noticed it, I'm not sure how long it's been like that. If I've been riding it that way, could I have done any damage as far as excessive wear or anything like that?
    No you have not done any damage riding with a loose chain. I would suggest picking up a chain guage to keep an eye on how much your chain stretches. If you keep a good chain on your bike the chainring and cog will last longer.

  35. #135
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    Okay, thanks! I just went out and tightened it. Much easier than I thought, literally loosen bolts, turn BB a bit, tighten bolts, check tension.

  36. #136
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    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_1569.jpg
    I think you guys might get a kick out of this. Here's the Furley pushbike I put together for the kids I work with.

  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by WMegginson View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think you guys might get a kick out of this. Here's the Furley pushbike I put together for the kids I work with.
    that is awesome!!

  38. #138
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    Has anyone else noticed a lot of sound coming from the Promax brakes on these bikes?

    I switched over to Kool Stop pads, and the sound went away for maybe a day, but now any time I apply moderate pressure to either brake I get some squealing (low and high in pitch) as well as some slight vibration.

    I've resanded the pads/rotors, and cleaned everything.

    I want to get BB7's next off season, but was hoping to make these last through this season.

    I read something on here about some people having success putting blue painters tape on the back of their pads. Anyone tried this with success here? I may try it just cause it'd be an easy fix if it worked...

    They're not rubbing, and it only happens with moderate to heavy brake pressure. If I lightly grab the brakes and take a hundred yards to stop, they work fine .

  39. #139
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    I dunno Shrinkers, but my BB7s squeal like a chorus of hungry children. For some reason, the brakes on the Furley have always been loud. I've changed out both the rotors and calipers, but they're still noisy. I have an identical setup (BB7 calipers, EBC gold pads, Avid G2 rotors) on my hardtail and it's silent.

    On another note, does anybody recommend wheelset upgrades? Something that's lighter than stock, but reasonably sturdy...perhaps the Stans line?

  40. #140
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    Good to know. I'm gonna try the painters tape thing as soon as I remember to.

    Is the stopping power still good with the BB7's? I can lock my tires up if I try to, but no amount of adjustment will get rid of the spongy feel.

  41. #141
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    Shrinkers, if the brakes feel spongy I'd recommend taking off the interrupter levers on the flat part of the handlebars. I haven't had the trouble with my brakes that you seem to be having, but when I took those levers off, the brakes had a much better feel.

  42. #142
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    I may give that a try. Do I need anything to do it? Or can I simply take them off? I'm not all that familiar with how they actually work, so don't know if I need another ferrule or something like that.

    I did put the painters tape on my pads, and it really helped with the noise.

  43. #143
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    Since the levers take up about an inch of what would be cable housing, I'd recommend getting some inline cable adjusters. I unfortunately spent $40 on brand new cable housing, redid everything, and lost the easy on-the-fly brake adjustment at the handlebars.

    On a brighter note, I finally got all the parts together for my 1x10 conversion and it's awesome! I went with a 42t Wolftooth front chainring, an 11-28 cassette, and microshift derailleur and bar end shifter. I come from a skateboarding background, and my other bike is a Bianchi Pista, so having gears is a new and fun experience for me.

    Anyway, here are some pics of the work in progress.
    Raleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2137.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2138.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2139.jpgRaleigh Furley, some initial thoughts-img_2141.jpg

  44. #144
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    I've had my Furly for like 3 or 4 months now and am finally going in to get fit . I figure I'll probably take advantage of the free first tuneup at the same time. While the bike is in there I'm thinking of having them swap out the brakes for BB7's, getting rid of the cross-top levers, switch the tires over to Marathons or Gator Skins or something, and go up a tooth or two in the rear.

    My question, is it worth it this early on? All of the stuff on the bike has plenty of life left in it, but I'd rather have some smoother/better tires (not all that big of a fan of these), better brakes, and I'm really wanting to gear it down a bit. I just don't know if I should before I wear the stuff out that's on it before I start upgrading.

    It's sad to think that the bike is only 3-4 months old and already as scratched up as it is .

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    I've had my Furly for like 3 or 4 months now and am finally going in to get fit . I figure I'll probably take advantage of the free first tuneup at the same time. While the bike is in there I'm thinking of having them swap out the brakes for BB7's, getting rid of the cross-top levers, switch the tires over to Marathons or Gator Skins or something, and go up a tooth or two in the rear.

    My question, is it worth it this early on? All of the stuff on the bike has plenty of life left in it, but I'd rather have some smoother/better tires (not all that big of a fan of these), better brakes, and I'm really wanting to gear it down a bit. I just don't know if I should before I wear the stuff out that's on it before I start upgrading.

    It's sad to think that the bike is only 3-4 months old and already as scratched up as it is .
    eBay the parts to help defray the cost of new parts.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  46. #146
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    But do you think it'd be better to wear out what I have some more? Or should I just jump in and start putting the stuff I want on it?

  47. #147
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    I swapped out the brakes and took the cross top levers off with in the first few weeks. But I had the parts at home in a box.

    I think the best upgrade I did was to go with salsa cowbell bars.

  48. #148
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    Okay. So the only other question I have is, is it a bad idea to swap out that many components after a fitting? I'd be doing brakes, tires, and a larger cog.

    Trying to decide if I want to put the money into my Furley or get it a SS MTB brother...

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Okay. So the only other question I have is, is it a bad idea to swap out that many components after a fitting? I'd be doing brakes, tires, and a larger cog.

    Trying to decide if I want to put the money into my Furley or get it a SS MTB brother...

    Larger cog? If you are putting slicks on it and want more speed you will need a smaller cog in the back. Stock is 18 try a 16 thats an easy swap.

  50. #150
    mtbr member
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    Feb 2014
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    Nope. I'm not looking for speed. I'm looking to climb some of the hills around here without my heart jumping out of my chest and running away only half a mile in. I know, ride more. But I really think I'm in decent shape and more than a couple miles of 5-8% has me panting pretty good.

    The slicks are mostly for better tread life and better puncture protection. I've run Marathons before and love them. I've had two flats already with the current CX tires on there.

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