I have always wanted a Ritchey, and decided this frame over a Yeti Arc-X (which iv had before)
I built it with a 1x9 with bar end friction shifting, Its just a personal thing, I hate index... I do plan to install a Ritchey CX double crankset in the near future.
I have always wanted a Ritchey, and decided this frame over a Yeti Arc-X (which iv had before)
I built it with a 1x9 with bar end friction shifting, Its just a personal thing, I hate index... I do plan to install a Ritchey CX double crankset in the near future.
I've posted mine before, but I ended up at the bottom of a pile of riders at the beginning of my last race last season. I finished, badly, but I needed to true the wheels (easily done) and I bent the handlebar. Found a crack in it too when I took the tape off.
About the same time, I broke the chainstay on my commuter, which had a nice old compact double crank that I'd been eyeing to replace the piece-of-crap FSA crank that was on my 'cross bike.
So I figured out what I'd need, ordered it all, and it came in at the beginning of the month. I don't ride this bike a whole lot outside of racing, so I've been working on it about an hour at a time.
I stripped off the old housings and cables, and pulled the wheels, chain and handlebars. Left the stem on just so the fork wouldn't fall out. Cleaned everything. I even bought some Pledge, on a tip from a poster on another site.
The crank is from the old bike. The large chain ring is new. I love the finish! I ordered it from a catalog entry giving size and bolt pattern, so I had no idea it would be polished aluminum. The front derailleur is also new. I tried to use the one from my old bike, but the cage was too wide to work well in a modern drivetrain. Since I race this bike, I try to keep its setup relatively conservative. The small chainring is relatively new, bought in early 2011 when I decided I wanted more reasonable gearing for a major climb in my commute. It's now a 46/34, so close to the traditional cyclocross setup.
The mountain bike rear portion for the drivetrain was a mid-season change last Fall. Actually, I don't know if I think it worked out that well. But I'm going from an available 30t small ring to a 34t small ring, so I think it's going to change the way I use my gearing. And even if I think I should train to push a bigger gear for most 'cross, I want to keep those low gears available until I decide that I don't need them even for races at the end of the season, when it can get super-muddy, or for sand.
New handlebars. A little shorter straddle cable for the brake. Turns out that this bike will just clear criss-cross cables.
It's probably going to mostly sit in my basement until August or so, or I might loan it to my girlfriend again for a while. But I really don't like having non-functional bikes hanging around. I'm afraid they'll breed.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
I've posted mine before, but I ended up at the bottom of a pile of riders at the beginning of my last race last season. I finished, badly, but I needed to true the wheels (easily done) and I bent the handlebar. Found a crack in it too when I took the tape off.
About the same time, I broke the chainstay on my commuter, which had a nice old compact double crank that I'd been eyeing to replace the piece-of-crap FSA crank that was on my 'cross bike.
So I figured out what I'd need, ordered it all, and it came in at the beginning of the month. I don't ride this bike a whole lot outside of racing, so I've been working on it about an hour at a time.
I stripped off the old housings and cables, and pulled the wheels, chain and handlebars. Left the stem on just so the fork wouldn't fall out. Cleaned everything. I even bought some Pledge, on a tip from a poster on another site.
*snip*
Ironically, this bike gets cleaned most often of all my bikes, even though it's not my favorite.
*snip*
The crank is from the old bike. The large chain ring is new. I love the finish! I ordered it from a catalog entry giving size and bolt pattern, so I had no idea it would be polished aluminum. The front derailleur is also new. I tried to use the one from my old bike, but the cage was too wide to work well in a modern drivetrain. Since I race this bike, I try to keep its setup relatively conservative. The small chainring is relatively new, bought in early 2011 when I decided I wanted more reasonable gearing for a major climb in my commute. It's now a 46/34, so close to the traditional cyclocross setup.
*snip*
The mountain bike rear portion for the drivetrain was a mid-season change last Fall. Actually, I don't know if I think it worked out that well. But I'm going from an available 30t small ring to a 34t small ring, so I think it's going to change the way I use my gearing. And even if I think I should train to push a bigger gear for most 'cross, I want to keep those low gears available until I decide that I don't need them even for races at the end of the season, when it can get super-muddy, or for sand.
*snip*
New handlebars. A little shorter straddle cable for the brake. Turns out that this bike will just clear criss-cross cables.
It's probably going to mostly sit in my basement until August or so, or I might loan it to my girlfriend again for a while. But I really don't like having non-functional bikes hanging around. I'm afraid they'll breed.
Hey Andrew, I am actually picking one of these up tomorrow, yours is a 2009 right? I am excited for mine as it will be a gravel grinder/commuter. However, I am wondering how well the components on it hold up, I am 6' 190# and am a bit rough on my mtb. Are the wheels decently built? (I saw you said you bent one) How are the Kore brakes, I was thinking that once I get some money together I might upgrade those to Tektro CR720s. Also, what are your thoughts on the fork? There are some CF options out there for relatively cheap but wondering if it would hinder the bike at all?
Well brought her home this evening, put the M520 pedals that I picked up from ebay for $23 on her and she is ready to go. She currently has Continental Gatorskins on her but thinking I am going to have to switch to something a little more "CX" friendly in the near future. I plan to do fork, brake, and wheelset upgrade this year (probably Nashbar carbon fork, Tektro CR720s, and build my own wheels).
Hey Andrew, I am actually picking one of these up tomorrow, yours is a 2009 right? I am excited for mine as it will be a gravel grinder/commuter. However, I am wondering how well the components on it hold up, I am 6' 190# and am a bit rough on my mtb. Are the wheels decently built? (I saw you said you bent one) How are the Kore brakes, I was thinking that once I get some money together I might upgrade those to Tektro CR720s. Also, what are your thoughts on the fork? There are some CF options out there for relatively cheap but wondering if it would hinder the bike at all?
Sorry, was away for the weekend.
The crank is garbage. (sorry.) When you wear out something on it or rip the arm off, just throw it out.
The build of the wheels wasn't terrible. The rear wheel that I destroyed, I destroyed because I fell in a sandpit, someone fell on top of my bike, and I tried to get up and going again too fast. The more recent bending incident was similar, but I didn't have to replace anything. The rear hub is a Shimano Tiagra hub. I've rebuilt it. It's reasonably well sealed, and it's been doing great.
The front hub is a piece of garbage. I swapped it for a nice old Shimano Parallax hub that happened to have the same flange diameter and pretty close spacing. The original rim and spokes on mine are still doing fine, though.
Bottom line, aside from that front hub, everything about the wheels is a perfectly good, if not a particularly special, choice.
I keep thinking about replacing the Kore brakes, but I've talked to my mechanic and one of my more experienced racing friends, and everybody tells me that it doesn't really matter what I put on that bike, brakes don't work in 'cross races. I've been able to get better performance out of them with better brake pads (Kool Stop, in holders) and by lowering the straddle wire. Sheldon Brown has a great article on tuning cantilever brakes on his site.
The fork's cheap but safe. If people get by me in races it's because they've spent more time doing intervals and lifting weights.
I think if you aren't banging the bike around on race courses and crashing it, you should be fine stock. Just don't expect to get a ton of life out of the front hub, and don't spend money maintaining the crank.
I killed my headset pretty quickly after I bought the bike. I don't know if that was racing or driving to races with it on a fork mount rack. Regardless, the headset itself was part of the problem - I haven't had problems like that with my others, and I use the same rack on those bikes too.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
AndrwSwitch - Thanks for the info I appreciate it! I just picked it up on Friday and took it on a couple of small road shakedown rides, today was the first major ride (coming to work - a whole whopping 3 miles!!) that I have had on it. I figured that while it will spend most of its life as a road commuter I will throw in the occasional gravel grinder for fun and some single track. I am about 190# so I dont want to destroy the wheels before I can afford a replacement. Now I am used to my avid BB7s that stop me on a dime so these seem to take forever to get me stopped. Think it might be because of adjustments needed but it still has the stock pads on it and not sure if they need adjustment. But before we sideline this thread here is my thread over at Roadbike.... http://forums.roadbikereview.com/com...ke-274429.html
Even though I already put this in the SSCX thread, I can't seem to stop myself from flooding this forum with pics of it...
Build is nothing too fancy, and mostly stuff I had in my parts box.
All-City Nature Boy Zona Ltd. frame and fork
Chris King headset
Thomson stem
On One Midge bar
Salsa tape
Cane Creek levers
Tektro 926 mini-v brakes
SRAM S500 cranks with a cheap 42t ring
Bontrager Mustang rims, WTB Laser Disc ft hub, Surly New flip-flop rear, 32h
Salsa post
Brooks Swift Ti saddle
2011 Trek Cronus CX Ultimate. Got it at the Toronto Bike Show last weekend. It's a "demo" so it was significantly cheaper than new, but I still get the warranty on the frame. So far I'm really happy with it. With the lights, CPU, bell, and Time atac xs carbon pedals it weighed 17.5 pounds on the bathroom scale.
this bike was put together by my lbs with left over and take off parts and a new cross check frame cheaper than online ....support your lbs and they will return the favour
:Kerryn - what type of bars are you running there and how do you like them? Seems I am spending more money that I wanted to on this new bike so might as well just keep spending!!
Was thinking of getting the Midges like SSLos has and seeing as I just bought new brakes and will be doing a cable overhaul in the future, might as well throw some new bars in the mix since I will "HAVE TO" replace the bar tape.
I started grinding gravel as a break from road riding. Now I'm grinding more gravel than road. I have three sets of wheels/tires for the Appalachian -- road 28's, CX 30's, and grinder 37's. The Ti drop bar MTB is a recent convert to grinding and the Land Shark is just cool.
so - i'm told that this isn't a cross bike becuase technically the bars cant point forward on a cross - but as i don't race, I don't care! oldish major jake frame & bontrager carbon forks from ebay then other bits n bobs i slowly picked up. its a good fun and light weight do it all bike
I have a Kona Jake that I have used for cross in the past but my El Padrino is shaping up to be a lighter rig (even with these heavy, heavy wheels). This is my set up for Barry-Roubaix this weekend.
Looks like the Jake is going to be relegated to road and Burley hauling duty
I just can't afford to make more than one bike light lol...
This is our road frame that seems to be doubling as our XC frame. Had not thought of doing so until we bought the bike and discovered our clearances were big enough to play with. And as it turns out, the wife much prefers (at this point) our XC adventures over our regular road runs.
This is our road frame that seems to be doubling as our XC frame. Had not thought of doing so until we bought the bike and discovered our clearances were big enough to play with. And as it turns out, the wife much prefers (at this point) our XC adventures over our regular road runs.
Bravo!
Life's journey is not 2 arrive @ the grave safe but rather 2 skid in sideways totally worn out shouting "Holy S what a ride!"
but is it still cross? purists would disagree. to me it looks OK. had similar russian road frame back in the old country - my first true road bike (even if parts were crappy), it did see some cx trails (it was my do it all/go everywhere bike at college).
but is it still cross? purists would disagree. to me it looks OK. had similar russian road frame back in the old country - my first true road bike (even if parts were crappy), it did see some cx trails (it was my do it all/go everywhere bike at college).
Sure, it's not a cross bike frame, but considering fat tires, drops, lax roadie geometry (old tourer) and some pretty decent clearance for something that wasn't meant to have fat tires, I think it counts.
Just did a rather awesome mixed terrain ride this last weekend. 50 miles. 6000'. pretty much 70% dirt/sandstone fun/mild double track and 30% road. Only issue is gearing. 39/28 as a granny for loose and muddy climbs is not a fun ratio.
Wish I had more pics of when it was just covered in mud, but spent more time riding than taking pictures.
The RBR cyclocross forum has an entire thread devoted to snobbery about whether bikes are 'cross bikes or not.
I did my second two 'cross races in college on an old tourer like the one above. I think if the poster thinks it's a 'cross bike, it meets the standard for the MTBR forum. The old longer-armed brake standard rocked.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
On the stock Bontrager Race Lights, I can't think of any time I had even the slightest concern about them. They stop just fine (and I step on and off 'Clyde' property) and there was minimal noise (possibly helped by the crown mounted brake stop) .
I have always wanted a Ritchey, and decided this frame over a Yeti Arc-X (which iv had before)
i love the swiss cross! i had to choose between a swiss cross and the gunnar i just bought. no regrets buying the gunnar, but i will one day buy a swiss cross just to race once they get a disc version...
Gunnar Hyper-X
Winwood Fork
Sram Force
Mavic C29SSMAX wheelset
Avid BB7 Road Brakes
Ritchey WCS cockpit
This is my wannabe cyclocross. It's an old Rog Marathon bike (Slovenia) from 1980. I've done several changes, tires and wheels are new, color, handlebar ribbon, BB, chain and pedals.
Sure, it's not a cross bike frame, but considering fat tires, drops, lax roadie geometry (old tourer) and some pretty decent clearance for something that wasn't meant to have fat tires, I think it counts.
Just did a rather awesome mixed terrain ride this last weekend. 50 miles. 6000'. pretty much 70% dirt/sandstone fun/mild double track and 30% road. Only issue is gearing. 39/28 as a granny for loose and muddy climbs is not a fun ratio.
Wish I had more pics of when it was just covered in mud, but spent more time riding than taking pictures.
I love your bike. Builds like this are in some ways a lot more fun than a newer/shiny CX bike. I've done similar builds with an old bridgestone and a univega (both designed around 27" wheels, I used 700's). Honestly, CX thrashes bikes so much that it makes sense to build rigs like this unless you're very serious about racing. Totally a CX bike in my book.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/mrpink57/Bike/0fd54ed4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
We're in gravel mode right now, I won't even setup cross mode till closer to season. Just got my Nashbar Carbon Cyclocross fork today but have not been able to ride it. Had plenty of clearance, the tires on there are 35c pasela's.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/mrpink57/Bike/photobucket-887-1333720293816.jpg" border="0" alt="2012-04-05_18-12-35_642"></a>
Past setup.
Last edited by Mr Pink57; 06-20-2012 at 10:40 PM.
Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?
I love your bike. Builds like this are in some ways a lot more fun than a newer/shiny CX bike. I've done similar builds with an old bridgestone and a univega (both designed around 27" wheels, I used 700's). Honestly, CX thrashes bikes so much that it makes sense to build rigs like this unless you're very serious about racing. Totally a CX bike in my book.
Thanks! I've been loving it and threw on a compact for the time being and some 32c SB8's. Been devouring singletrack with it.
Had the bike for a few years. Gonna race it for the first time this year. I'm gonna put a 39t ring and guard up front and get rid of the 34. Otherwise this is about how its gonna look. This bike gets ridden everyday in all weather on and off-road.
Yeah you can't beat the look of a nice steel fork. Will take the sting out the trail.
My CX gets most miles on it now, my full susser's are looking upon it with hate. I swear I'll go into the garage one day and find the other bikes piled on top of it.
If you don't mind throwing a part at it, I highly recommend integrated shifters. Much, much easier to operate on a bumpy course.
Originally Posted by vaultbrad
Had the bike for a few years. Gonna race it for the first time this year. I'm gonna put a 39t ring and guard up front and get rid of the 34. Otherwise this is about how its gonna look. This bike gets ridden everyday in all weather on and off-road.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
Flipping love this bike 2012 Salsa Chili Con Crosso (53). Unfortunately I'll be posting it for sale soon but it has been a favorite in my CX stable (La Cruz, Arc-X, Cross-check, and a couple others)
changed up and finalized the Ritchey Swiss Cross, no more carbonz!
That's a pretty sweet bike! I have not seen many Ritchey Swiss Cross bikes, but I love them. The integrated headtube is a great idea and so easy to install. Nice looking build too!
This is my SC Stigmata 1 x 10 with Ultegra running gear, Ritchey stem and seat post, Mavic wheels with Maxxis tires and Shimano CX-70 brakes. It comes in at 19.25 lbs. I ride a lot of single track and enjoy the speed of the bike on trails, so much so that I am going to sell my 26" Intense Spider and get a 650B bike to replace it since the wheel size is so close to this. My only regret is that it does not have discs. I forgot how much I hate cantis and the CX-70s aren't very good. I 'll move on to TRPs and then old school XTR V brakes if I have to. I went with an old school silvery look since I got tired of the boring black wheels and components that are so common today.
Cantilevers are pretty tunable. To my eye, it would be pretty easy to set those up for more power or more modulation, depending on what you wanted. I'd actually read pretty good reviews of the CX70s, but those brakes take a little tweaking by nature.
I just stuck some Mini-Vs on mine and am pretty impressed with how well they worked test-riding. Haven't had 'em off-road yet, though.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
have a look at this pile of junk and leftover parts
that's my first classic mtb frame, which sat in a corner for the last two years and has now been reincarnated with 28" wheels.
being posted in this thread, you might want to point out, that it lacks drop bars. but the front tire has both 'cyclo' and 'cross' in its name, the bike is equipped with canti brakes and huge fun to ride. so it qualifies, in my mind.
sorry to hijack this thread. I have always ridden MTBs and have recently heard of cyclocross. i asked my LBS about it, and they said either buy MTB or a proper "racer" as we call them here..I am still intrigued though. can you point me to more information on this type of bike....
1. weight compared to a MTB and road bike
2. gear ratios?
3. speed/comfort compared to a MTB.
4. availability of panniers to use as a commuter bike.
once again apologies for hijacking this thread, but i cannot post a new thread yet (am new )
^^^
It's basically a road bike with clearance for fatter tires. Whether or not you can fit a rack and how stable the bike will be are both fairly dependent on the specific model. Weight is dependent on specific model and whether you hang a lot of commuting garbage on it, build it up for 'cross, or strip it for road racing. Gear ratios are up to you. One of the fun things about 'cross bikes is how malleable they are.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
^^^
It's basically a road bike with clearance for fatter tires. Whether or not you can fit a rack and how stable the bike will be are both fairly dependent on the specific model. Weight is dependent on specific model and whether you hang a lot of commuting garbage on it, build it up for 'cross, or strip it for road racing. Gear ratios are up to you. One of the fun things about 'cross bikes is how malleable they are.
Many thanks for the reply!...so in essence it would be perfectly possible to buy a cross bike and through buying a set of wheels and tires, have the bike in two configurations! brill!!
jrsbike, re the Stigmata: a shorter yoke would help, but I would go to a mini-V right now. No squeal, better braking. Try a Tektro RX5 (low cost option) or the TRP CX9 (classier but pricey). Love the silver-and-white.
^^^
It's basically a road bike with clearance for fatter tires. Whether or not you can fit a rack and how stable the bike will be are both fairly dependent on the specific model. Weight is dependent on specific model and whether you hang a lot of commuting garbage on it, build it up for 'cross, or strip it for road racing. Gear ratios are up to you. One of the fun things about 'cross bikes is how malleable they are.
It's my understanding that a designed Cross bike will have more slack in the geometry than a typical road bike. It's needed to absorb some of the shock in the rougher terrain (no suspension). A road bike will pound the crap out of you with the straighter angles. Also, typical road bike brakes will clog up with mud and debris ... that's why cross bikes have cantilever and other types of brakes similar to mountain bikes (more open). And cross bikes will generally have lower gear ratios.
It's been a while for me, but it's what I remember from back in the day ... correct me if I'm wrong.
'Cross bikes are all over the map on how their geometry compares to road bikes. Especially when you throw in touring, randonneur and current endurance models. Different brands have different attitudes about bottom bracket drop too.
About the only constant is clearance. Which I mentioned before you corrected me. The brakes are just a part of that.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
thanks for the replys guys...I have owned several MTB for nigh on 20 years and have been into and out of cycling. i am getting more and more interested int he cross concept, because the roads in my area are not really kept properly but i would love a solution which would allow me to go faster
I love your bike. Builds like this are in some ways a lot more fun than a newer/shiny CX bike. I've done similar builds with an old bridgestone and a univega (both designed around 27" wheels, I used 700's). Honestly, CX thrashes bikes so much that it makes sense to build rigs like this unless you're very serious about racing. Totally a CX bike in my book.
Agreed, sometimes I think it's more fun to build than to ride. Great point
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Love this thing. I'm back on carbon: steel is cool, but heavy when you go with discs.
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Originally Posted by mikeetow
The brakes are just a part of that.
