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  1. #1
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    PF30 Bottom Brackets

    Which PF30 BB have you had the best luck with? My new CX frame has a PF30 BB and I'd like to mess with this once as I need to take this to my LBS to get installed. I'm thinking about going with the new Chris King BB when it is released. Cranks are the Sram S950.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  2. #2
    mvi
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    I got the SRAM. Cheap. Has a lot of resistance when turning.
    BTW: My old square taper XTR is superior to any of the newer standards in that aspect.

  3. #3
    The Brutally Handsome
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    I too have sram with enduro bearings. The original sram bearings didn't last very long, and as mvi mentioned there's a lot of drag. PF30 seems to create more problems than it solves, hopefully CK will get it right so I can get something more reliable.

  4. #4
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    No sure if this is applicable with SRAM BB30 cranks, but I had similar issues with my Raleigh RCX Pro disc. I have a Hollogram SRM and use the new Cannondale Hollowgram SiSl2 spindle (109mm and no bearing shoulder) as well as the Cannondale SRM specific PF-30 bottom bracket with alloy cups and ceramic bearings. After install I was not overly impressed seeing as simply inserting the spindle required the use of a rubber mallet and way, way to much force. Once assembled, I did the obligatory spin down test and was not happy to see the crank barely completed a single revolution and after a couple hours of training rides, it seemed to have gotten worse.

    Since I was equally concerned about spin down and the degree of force required to simply insert the spindle, I decided I would first try to 'polish' the spindle. Using a couple grades of Emory cloth/metal compatible sandpaper, not owning a lathe, I was able to wet sand the spindle while spinning it with the crank bolt and a 10mm hex attachment on my cordless drill. After 15-20 minutes of trial and error, the spindle was able to be inserted by hand and after torquing to spec, another spin down test yielded much better results.

    My thinking is due to the increased diameter requiring use of the mallet, the lateral force/increased diameter was causing deformation of the inner bearing race causing the bearings to bind. Having removed ~.1mm or so worth of material from the outer diameter of the spindle, allowing it to be inserted with relatively little lateral force, therefore no more deformation.

  5. #5
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    I just installed the new Wheels Manufacturing PF30 on my scalpel. It has an aluminum shell with angular contact bearings. It's pretty nice. You can repack bearings or replace the bearings. The sram one you have to replace the whole thing or at least one side. All PF30's are quite easy to install.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by norty_mtb View Post
    The sram one you have to replace the whole thing or at least one side. All PF30's are quite easy to install.
    That's not completely true as the SRAM shell is Delrin and if you spread the 'ears' slightly on a Park BBT-90.3 PressFit Bottom Bracket Bearing Tool, you can tap out the bearings. Of course in addition to voiding the warranty, the bearings appear to be bonded into the shell with a light duty retaining compound which leaves a residue so pressing new bearings back in may not seat completely flush causing other problems down the road.

    Quote Originally Posted by norty_mtb View Post
    I just installed the new Wheels Manufacturing PF30 on my scalpel.
    Was going to mention that as it is half the price of the Cannondale PF30 and because of the o-ring, appears to not need to be 'glued' in with Loctite 609 Retaining Compound to avoid creaking.

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