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  1. #1
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    Origin8 CX700 build

    After months and months of waiting on the frame (ordered in February, delivered in June), I finally got a good start on building up my cross (or monster cross) bike. Still have some work to do (tape handlebars, add cadence sensor, rack, saddle bag, etc.). The road brake levers and BB7 discs seem to work well together. The RetroShift shifters work great, rear (10sp. is indexed) and front is more or less friction shift. So far the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires (700x40) seem to work well, albeit heavy. Also have a set of Conti CX-Speed tires (700x35) that should be at least a pound lighter than the Mondails.



    More build info below:
    - Monstercross Bicycle Build

    After finishing up a few odds and ends, took it out for a 20 mile test ride and it feels good. On one of my regular flat loops, w/ 9 miles of dirt, I was a little faster than my best time on the touring bike, and this was with very rough riding from the hikers walking on the trail after the recent rains. A little bit of tread noise on the pavement, but not annoying. Think I need to drop the tire pressure a little, running 50 psi now, will try 40 and see how that feels.

    The disc brakes feel really good, added in-line barrel adjusters at each caliper. The rear shifter works fantastic, just clicks from cog to cog. Used Gore sealed cables throughout, so the braking and shifting performance should not degrade over time.
    Last edited by 4Crawler; 06-11-2012 at 11:27 AM.

  2. #2
    CS2
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    Actually kind of neat. How do the shifters work?
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  3. #3
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    I like the shifters.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Actually kind of neat. How do the shifters work?
    I really like the shifting, very natural feeling and it seems to be very crisp. The rear shifter is fully indexed but can also be switched to friction mode if need be. The front shifter is pretty much friction mode, although does have a detent in the middle. With the rapid rise RD, both sifters work the same way, finger pressure shift to a higher gear and thumb pressure shifts to a lower gear. Rapid rise also shifts like a dream into lower gears, even under load. Just click the shifter and you are in a lower gear, no hesitation or noise.

    Last edited by 4Crawler; 07-02-2012 at 09:12 PM.

  5. #5
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    Nice!
    Did you order that frame over the internet? I have been searching for a CX700 frame, but am not having much luck finding any for sale online...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by webb-o View Post
    Nice!
    Did you order that frame over the internet? I have been searching for a CX700 frame, but am not having much luck finding any for sale online...
    No, I ordered it through a LBS, one of their listed dealers, back in February. For the lack of service I got from the LBS, I probably would have been better off ordering one on-line. They only got the new 2012 model frames into the distributor warehouses about a month ago, likely why there are none for sale on-line, as they are probably all going to fill back orders, like mine.

  7. #7
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    It looks great! What size is the frame? Is it the 56 or the 59 one? Tks

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnybbiker View Post
    It looks great! What size is the frame? Is it the 56 or the 59 one? Tks
    It is a 56:
    - DSCF1323

    Almost could have gone with the 53. I guess with the front fork and the tire clearance, the front end, it is taller than I estimated, But I like a frame I can stretch out on and not feel all scrunched up.

  9. #9
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    How is the frame holding up? I see it has welded patches on the headtube.Did u use normal headsets? How tall are you? I'm 6'2 and with inseam of 34,5 inches. I should go for the 59 model i guess

  10. #10
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    Frame has been doing well, no issues so far (~450 miles of riding).

    I think they must have added some additional gussets on the down/head tube joint plus an extra piece of steel at the top/head tube joint, not sure if those were there on earlier models or not.

    I just used a generic Origin8 1-1/8" headset as that was all the LBS had in stock the day I picked up the frame. Just took a little filing inside the head tube to get it to press in.

    I'm between 5'-11' and 6' w/ 32" inseam. Stand over height on the top tube w/ 700x40 tires is right at 32" above the BB.

  11. #11
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    Previous models did not have that. I think they did that because they used thinner tubing. I see the TT is not horizontal anymore, they did it in a CX style. Should u recommend i get the 59 one? By the way, 56 is measured c-c or c-t? I'm not sure about that thing

  12. #12
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    The 56 seems to be center BB to top of seat tube. I actually sliced about 3/4" off the top of my seat tube in order to fit a 100mm dropper seat post in. Needed that extra room to drop the post down so the fully up position was the right height. As is, I have 8" between the top of the seat tube and the top of the saddle. I just clear the top tube when standing over the frame back by the saddle, but can't clear it up at the front.

    Hard to say on the frame size. Looks like you are about the same size relative to the 59 as I am to the 56. I tend to like larger frames, my road bike is 23.5" and my touring bike is 24" (56cm=22"). So if you like a larger frame the 59 is probably good, if you like them a bit smaller then 56 would work. I think I could have gone with the 53cm frame, but the 56 is working fine.

  13. #13
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    The problem with the sizes is the geometry. A larger frame has a longer tt, so a better riding position. Many bike guru say this thing, the most important is the TT , cause its fixed, ST u can jog by saddle position. I have long arms for my height, so i need a longer TT, the 59 model has 58,3 cm in TT lenght, thats more suited for me. I had a '91 GIANT TERRAGO size XL i think 23" and the tt was 24", coupled with a 12cm stem was very confortable, and that was designed as a MTB. Those had been good things in those years, long tt plus long stem. They tend to shorten the tt nowadays, go for a compact geometry.

  14. #14
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    Post some more pictures if u want. Have u done some upgrades on it?

  15. #15
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    Sounds like the 59 may be it then. I do like the longer TT as I can stretch out. I have a 100mm Ritchey adjustable stem, turned up, and that gives a nice comfortable cockpit. I think that is why I prefer larger frames. Does look like they add about 2cm of TT length for every 3cm of seat tube height.

    Few more photos on the page below:
    - Monstercross Bicycle Build

  16. #16
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    I just finished building a 53cm . As soon as I got it I shave the top tube cable runs ,all the cant I mounts and added guides and stops for longer housing runs under the top tube and bottle cage mounts on the fork then had it powder coated.

    The description says it has clearance for 2.1's but I built it up with 1.9 renegades and they would not fit so I swapped them for a set of 1.9 xr1's ( more like 1.8's)

    I used apex derailleurs with an x9 crank and SRAM tt500 bar end shifters . the bars are on one midge and brakes are bb7 mountain with tektro rl520 levers.
    Origin8 CX700 build-uploadfromtaptalk1353635561718.jpg


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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by murf99 View Post
    I just finished building a 53cm . As soon as I got it I shave the top tube cable runs ,all the cant I mounts and added guides and stops for longer housing runs under the top tube and bottle cage mounts on the fork then had it powder coated.

    The description says it has clearance for 2.1's but I built it up with 1.9 renegades and they would not fit so I swapped them for a set of 1.9 xr1's ( more like 1.8's)

    I used apex derailleurs with an x9 crank and SRAM tt500 bar end shifters . the bars are on one midge and brakes are bb7 mountain with tektro rl520 levers.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
    Looks sweet!!! How tall are you, and what is your inseam length? I am on the fence between ordering a 53CM versus 56CM frame. I’ve compared the geometry between the two and quite honestly it appears I could go either way—I’m 6' tall with 33.5" daddy-long-legs.

    Also, 4Crawler, what is your height and inseam?

    Thanks guys.
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  18. #18
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    I'm just short of 6', pants inseam around 32", but for saddle height I use about 33.5". Stand over height on the middle of the top tube w/ 700x40s is about 32.5", so there is just enough clearance for me 56cm frame). I tend to prefer larger frames, my touring bike is a 61cm and my road bike is around 59cm. Welcome to give it a test ride next time I make it out to Kennedy or Woods Rd.
    Last edited by 4Crawler; 12-23-2012 at 11:34 AM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4Crawler View Post
    I'm just short of 6', inseam around 33"-34". Stand over height on the middle of the top tube w/ 700x40s is about 32.5", so there is just enough clearance for me 56cm frame). I tend to prefer larger frames, my touring bike is a 61cm and my road bike is around 59cm. Welcome to give it a test ride next time I make it out to Kennedy or Woods Rd.
    I was actually going to PM you about the possibility of getting a test ride. I tell you what, I’ll bring my 9:zero:7 fatbike for you to try out while I try out your skinny-tired Origin-8 CX bike. What’s your typical schedule like? I work part-time, so I have frequent “windows” of opportunity throughout the week, yet weekends require checking with my CEO (wife) a few days in advance. PM me and we should try this out sometime.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leopold Porkstacker View Post
    Looks sweet!!! How tall are you, and what is your inseam length? I am on the fence between ordering a 53CM versus 56CM frame. I’ve compared the geometry between the two and quite honestly it appears I could go either way—I’m 6' tall with 33.5" daddy-long-legs.

    Also, 4Crawler, what is your height and inseam?

    Thanks guys.
    Im 5'9" with a 30" inseam.I run a 90mm stem and the bars are a short reach to the hooks.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by murf99 View Post
    Im 5'9" with a 30" inseam.I run a 90mm stem and the bars are a short reach to the hooks.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
    Thanks! Only thing I have to go on for CX frame sizing was a 1/4 mile test ride up a 10% grade on rocky ground on a friend’s 54cm sized Surly Cross-Check. Seemed smallish yet comfortable.
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  22. #22
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    I find the seat tube height is just a bit on the tall side for me but the reach is a bit on the short side. Was OK when I initially built it with a 100mm stem, but later dropped to a 60mm stem and I notice the knees will now hit the elbows while riding in the drops. I tend to like larger frames, so it probably comes down to preference. With your slightly longer legs, I think the 56 would be a good fit, although I imagine you could make the 53 work with a taller seat post and longer stem if needed.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4Crawler View Post
    I think the 56 would be a good fit, although I imagine you could make the 53 work with a taller seat post and longer stem if needed.
    I was thinking along these lines. I have a size 18 Surly 1x1 (2009 11th Anniversary Edition) I had set up as a very crude CX bike in early 2012, and ran the seatpost really high, but it was a comfortable “attack” position (with a pretty short stem—I believe 65mm).
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  24. #24
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    Just took a little filing inside the head tube to get it to press in.

  25. #25
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    Got a new fork so could run some fat rubber in the front. I also converted it to single speed .when I was getting it ready for powdercoat I cut off some cable stops for the drive train and then added some more in all the wrong spots and it turned the cable routing into a hot ghetto mess.I love the frame so much am considering building up another for gears and maybe some cx width tires with normal drop bars.for $200 ish IMO makes it one of the best deals out there.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

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