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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flewbags View Post
    Thanks, appreciate it. I've contacted Giant UK and they've said there's no proprietary guards to get it and despite being made with rack mounts and fittings for a front guard you can't fit a rear one! Beautiful!!
    Clearly you have proved them wrong and so will I:-)
    Took a month but:

    https://plus.google.com/101586313862...ts/QiXEjE2Sz2p


    Just rolled over 550km, really happy with the bike.

  2. #52
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    what is driving me a little crazy is how much setback the D Fuse seatpost has ....

    when i measure it - i get different results!

    a second & third opinion would be great.

  3. #53
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    The one off 19mm spindle press fit BB sucks, every single tool out there is for a 24mm spindle.

    I don't know how to take it off without destroying the bb.

    I want to install my new BB91 BB and Ultegra 6750 crank, so I can mount a stages power meter.

    I rolled over 1050km, the front has started to creak (sounds like a click) some when I am standing and putting load onto the handlebars, torqued the stem bolts not long ago.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by P90Puma View Post
    The one off 19mm spindle press fit BB sucks, every single tool out there is for a 24mm spindle.

    I don't know how to take it off without destroying the bb.

    I want to install my new BB91 BB and Ultegra 6750 crank, so I can mount a stages power meter.

    I rolled over 1050km, the front has started to creak (sounds like a click) some when I am standing and putting load onto the handlebars, torqued the stem bolts not long ago.
    did know that about the tool. I imagine a LBS will be able to get it out - likely with a hammer though.

    i had a creak that i was convinced was the BB, and internet story about FSA BBs helped that along. I check the bolt of the pedals and chainrings and still - every now and again this infuriating creak started.

    eventually i thought of spraying GT45 into the springs of the SPD pedals.

    worked a charm. need to do it every few weeks. but it was def the issue.

  5. #55
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    My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2

    Also. That D-post and clamp can creak too. It sounds like it comes from the BB because it seems to occur with pedal strokes. Take out the post and grease it, along with the clamping wedges. Seemed to make more noise when OUT of the saddle torquing the frame.

  6. #56
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    Re: My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2

    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    Also. That D-post and clamp can creak too. It sounds like it comes from the BB because it seems to occur with pedal strokes. Take out the post and grease it, along with the clamping wedges. Seemed to make more noise when OUT of the saddle torquing the frame.
    interesting. Will try this.

  7. #57
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    So my LBS has one of these in stock at a killer price right now. Size M/L. I'm 5'10, 31 inseam, and would really basically use this as a road bike for my clyde body.

    Thoughts on appropriateness of bike/size?

  8. #58
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    I'd have thought that would be a bit big for you. I'm 6'1 with 34'' inside leg and have a M/L. It's just big enough for me. I probably sit somewhere between the M/L and the L.
    If the LBS has one in why not go and try it. It's a nice bike.

  9. #59
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    I am 5'10 and 32" inseam and the ML was too large for me.

    What's a killer price? I paid 1350 for mine.

  10. #60
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    Mine was £999 on 3 years interest free finance from All Terrain Cycles in Yorkshire. They're not listing them anymore but they're still no at £995 with Formby Cycles near Southport on interest free over 2 yrs.

  11. #61
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    $1040. Giant sent LBS the wrong bike, but didn't want to take it back so they extended floorplan allowance and he just wants it gone.

    I just rode it. It seems like the big difference between the M and the M/L is top tube length/reach, at least on paper. I flipped the stem and that helped. I think it was OK, but I'm compromised by having ridden nothing but mountain bikes in the last 20 years. Anything with a more road/cross-ish setup feels foreign to me.

    My use of this bike will really be as a go hop on it and pedal my 275 pounds on pavement for a few hours/30-ish miles for exercise. I'll probably put some slick 28 tires on it.

  12. #62
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    Re: My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2

    Quote Originally Posted by millargeo View Post
    $1040. Giant sent LBS the wrong bike, but didn't want to take it back so they extended floorplan allowance and he just wants it gone.

    I just rode it. It seems like the big difference between the M and the M/L is top tube length/reach, at least on paper. I flipped the stem and that helped. I think it was OK, but I'm compromised by having ridden nothing but mountain bikes in the last 20 years. Anything with a more road/cross-ish setup feels foreign to me.

    My use of this bike will really be as a go hop on it and pedal my 275 pounds on pavement for a few hours/30-ish miles for exercise. I'll probably put some slick 28 tires on it.

    That's a great price. Maybe a shorter stem will help, I felt too stretched over the bike reaching for the bars.

    I run 700x28 marathon plus for commuting on mine.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by millargeo View Post
    $1040. Giant sent LBS the wrong bike, but didn't want to take it back so they extended floorplan allowance and he just wants it gone.
    That's a really good price!

  14. #64
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    Re: My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2

    Quote Originally Posted by P90Puma View Post
    interesting. Will try this.
    This totally worked thank you!

  15. #65
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    Looks like the 2015 model is up on Giant's website.

    11spd 105 and they have seen what everyone did and dropped the stupid white.

    It also says it has a 15mm thru-axle (on the SLR2) but it doesn't look like it to me?

    TCX SLR 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by P90Puma View Post
    This totally worked thank you!

  17. #67
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    I've got over 3000km on mine now, and have ridden it as a commuter all winter with studded tires, raced it at Steaming Nostril and Paris-Ancaster, and used it as a fall/spring road bike with fenders and 25/28 road slicks. This bike has been awesome and pretty well does it all. I just got my first flat as well, but it was a sidewall tear on a new set of Clement LAS that got caught in a rut. I can't recommend this bike enough. I've had no issues with the hubs, and the wheel set has been pretty decent. Eventually, I'd like to put on a set of Stan's new Grail wheels.

  18. #68
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    The seat post is carbon I believe, so you might want to use carbon compound and not grease.

  19. #69
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    I had a bit of a squeak coming from the headset area, and thought it sounded like cables rubbing. A mechanic at my LBS told me that it might be something to do with the bottom bearings of the headset in the Giants. A little bit of TriFlow dribbled in there has solved it.

  20. #70
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    Awesome on singletrack. I've been riding a lot through the Don Valley trails and there's only been a few places where I had to actually get off the bike, due to the steepness of the trail, mostly on the descent.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flewbags View Post
    Loving this look. I've just bought one of these and I'm struggling to find some mudguards (Fenders??) to fit and how to keep them on. Can you explain or provide some close up pics of what you've done. And which model 'guards have you fitted.
    Cheers.
    I'm using the SKS Velo 47 Trekking mudguards with the standard U-stays (VELO 47 TREKKING - mudguards - de - SKS Germany). They fit perfectly and are really clean install, without having to use any zip ties, etc. Make sure you get a rack accessory kit with the large spacer washers for a good fit though. I posted some pictures previously in the thread.

  22. #72
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    Re: My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2

    Quote Originally Posted by Toronto Commuter View Post
    I had a bit of a squeak coming from the headset area, and thought it sounded like cables rubbing. A mechanic at my LBS told me that it might be something to do with the bottom bearings of the headset in the Giants. A little bit of TriFlow dribbled in there has solved it.
    I had nasty squeaks coming from there and I sprayed it down with lube and all is well.

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toronto Commuter View Post
    I'm 5'7" and riding the S. I ride the TCR Advanced 0 in a M. The TCX SLR frame doesn't have the same top tube slope as the TCR.

    Here's the adapters:Attachment 854543
    I can't for the life of me figure out what you did here. I just bought this bike (my first serious ride too), and I want a rack. My LBS has suggested i use bags, but I know it's kind of lame, but I really like the look you got going on here. Would you mind elaborating a bit more on what the "cylindrical adapters" and "rack adapters" are?

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnify View Post
    I can't for the life of me figure out what you did here. I just bought this bike (my first serious ride too), and I want a rack. My LBS has suggested i use bags, but I know it's kind of lame, but I really like the look you got going on here. Would you mind elaborating a bit more on what the "cylindrical adapters" and "rack adapters" are?
    The rear rack attachment should have come with the bike, you bolt it on through the seat post clamp. It's 2 cylinder spacers and a block adapter.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by P90Puma View Post
    The rear rack attachment should have come with the bike, you bolt it on through the seat post clamp. It's 2 cylinder spacers and a block adapter.
    I bought my bike as a display/trial model for $1100. It came with nothing that wasn't already attached.

  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toronto Commuter View Post
    I've got on too and it has been an excellent ride so far. I've used it for some road rides with some 25/28 tires on it, commute with rack and fenders, and have ridden off-road/gravel/paths, etc. So far, this bike has been really responsive and fun to ride. I think I've got about 700km on mine.

    I switched the bar tape and saddle as well to black, as white would get way too dirty. I also put in a 34/46 CX70 crankset. I'm riding a S.

    There is no chain stay bridge, nor a seat stay bridge. I'm using the Axiom disc streamliner rack and the SKS Velo 47 Trekking fenders with the optional stays. This stabilises the front, using the eyelets and on the rear, I managed to rig a clamp on the rack which gives a point of attachment that you would normally have on the seat stay bridge. The only disadvantage of this setup is that the fender only comes down halfway along the seat tube.Attachment 846882Attachment 846886Attachment 846884Attachment 846885Attachment 846887
    Are you having issues with that fender being so high on the seat tube? I'm in the NW, there will be a LOT of rain to deal with and I'm wondering if I follow your build, if that big gap would be an issue.

  27. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnify View Post
    I bought my bike as a display/trial model for $1100. It came with nothing that wasn't already attached.
    You might be able to have your LBS order it for you from Giant.

  28. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnify View Post
    Are you having issues with that fender being so high on the seat tube? I'm in the NW, there will be a LOT of rain to deal with and I'm wondering if I follow your build, if that big gap would be an issue.
    We had a really rainy spring and a pretty brutal winter this year and I didn't find the gap an issue. In the wet I ride with the Shimano cycling boots, so my feet are pretty dry and I didn't get much splash on the lower legs from the gap.

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anoobis View Post
    andeschau - have you gotten any further with your gearing ideas? I've got a few 25% climbs near me and so it could be handy to at least change something.
    Doubt you could change to 50/34 AND 11-32? that adds a huge number of teeth and surely well out the range of the 105 rear mech?
    There's nothing to stop you dropping to a 34 chainring as that would not add any extra teeth so the mech would handle it fine.
    You can also get a Shia Tiagra 10 speed cassette 12-30 which I am running. See this from Ribble Cycles - You should get with a 34x30 on a 105 no problem

    Shimano 10 Speed Tiagra 4600 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES.

  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flewbags View Post
    There's nothing to stop you dropping to a 34 chainring as that would not add any extra teeth so the mech would handle it fine.
    You can also get a Shia Tiagra 10 speed cassette 12-30 which I am running. See this from Ribble Cycles - You should get with a 34x30 on a 105 no problem

    Shimano 10 Speed Tiagra 4600 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES.

    The 12-30 cassette comes standard, at least on the Canadian models.

  31. #81
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    Nice TCX. I picked up a used 2013 TCX Advanced SL frame for $700 and put all of my old parts on it from my road bike that I upgraded. Just had to buy brakes and a new saddle. I use this bike for trail riding mostly and it's so much lighter and faster than my hybrid I love it. If the frame holds up, I'll likely buy a SRAM Red set to replace the mechanics when the Shimano 105 parts wear out. These bikes are awesome.


  32. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flewbags View Post
    There's nothing to stop you dropping to a 34 chainring as that would not add any extra teeth so the mech would handle it fine.
    You can also get a Shia Tiagra 10 speed cassette 12-30 which I am running. See this from Ribble Cycles - You should get with a 34x30 on a 105 no problem

    Shimano 10 Speed Tiagra 4600 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES.
    As mentioned already, 12x30 comes standard on the Canadian model. I'm running 34/46 x 12-30 and it's been great. Can get up pretty well everything I've encountered, except some really steep single track in the Don Valley, which I usually manage to get almost to the top of...but I think that is more lack of fitness than gearing!

  33. #83
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    Bought fenders.... PLEASE advise!

    Quote Originally Posted by Toronto Commuter View Post
    We had a really rainy spring and a pretty brutal winter this year and I didn't find the gap an issue. In the wet I ride with the Shimano cycling boots, so my feet are pretty dry and I didn't get much splash on the lower legs from the gap.
    I was able to do a little shopping today and came home with a set of Velo 42 Urban mudguards (amongst other things). The shop(s) I went to today did not carry the Velo 47, however, the Velo 42 was on sale for $15 with the U-stays.

    Now that I'm home, I'm tinkering with the install and NONE of the screws that came with the SKS fenders fit onto the bike. First, it was the carbon fork hole for the top of the front fender. Then, the tabs on the bottom of the front fender. Next, the rear holes didn't come close either. Well, at least it's consistent. Did you have an issue with this? Maybe because it was on "clearance", I might have gotten some crummy screws?

    I'm new to all of this so if it's something as silly as, "just drill that sucker in there and quit being a #@%^!" Please tell me.

    I haven't been able to find a rack just quite yet, so the little rigging bit in the back is going to be tricky.

    BTW, I did talk to my LBS about the seat retention plate and they hooked me up without a question and apologized that they forgot to give it to me with my purchase.

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNewOriginal View Post
    Here's mine, stock build + tubeless conversion

    btw,
    both rims and tires are tubeless ready,
    worked great after applying stan's rim tape and some sealant
    I am a tubeless noob, but I just ordered road wheels so I want to remount my stock offroad tires to the stock wheels and go tubeless.

    Is the factory rim tape not good enough? I thought I just needed valves and sealant?

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by P90Puma View Post
    I am a tubeless noob, but I just ordered road wheels so I want to remount my stock offroad tires to the stock wheels and go tubeless.

    Is the factory rim tape not good enough? I thought I just needed valves and sealant?
    Bueller? Anyone.


    Also upgraded to the CX70 front derailleur, GREAT upgrade, shifts from the small to big are much easier.

  36. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toronto Commuter View Post
    I'm using the SKS Velo 47 Trekking mudguards with the standard U-stays (VELO 47 TREKKING - mudguards - de - SKS Germany). They fit perfectly and are really clean install, without having to use any zip ties, etc. Make sure you get a rack accessory kit with the large spacer washers for a good fit though. I posted some pictures previously in the thread.
    Hi, I don't quite understand the bit about the rack accessory kit? Can you provide more details? Is that from SKS as well? I couldn't find anything on the website. (also does it mean they will only fit with a rack fitted too?)

  37. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toronto Commuter View Post
    I'm 5'7" and riding the S. I ride the TCR Advanced 0 in a M. The TCX SLR frame doesn't have the same top tube slope as the TCR.

    Here's the adapters:Attachment 854543

    I am a bit puzzled, this is all I got with mine:-


  38. #88
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    Hello all. Newbie here from the Philippines. I got my own TCX SLR 2 on the last week of May. I'm 5'7" (170cm) in height, with a 28" (71cm) inseam, and ride a size S. After 900 km/560 miles of riding on mostly craptastic roads, it's been a peach.

    Some observations:
    - The saddle clamp and lower rails can slip and angle downward if you suffer a hard drop while climbing seated on the nose of the saddle. In a particularly bad incident, the lower rails themselves might no longer be in alignment with each other (i.e. one side may have more angle than the other). Fortunately, this is easily remedied, and the clamp and lower rails are made of metal, so they're not as finicky with torque settings as the rest of the carbon seatpost is. Recommended torque is 15-18 Nm.

    - This was my first bike with disc brakes and so far they've been very consistent in any condition. Outright power isn't so different from a well-tuned rim brake, but the power doesn't go away when things get wet.

    Apart from that, it's been great. I have an Axiom Streamliner Disc rack and SKS Longboard fenders coming via sea freight, and I'm getting impatient for them to arrive. In the meantime, I took off the stock Super Swans and installed 700x28 Spez Espoir Sport slick rubber for road commute duty, then transferred over my commute gear from my folding bike. I've also swapped out the worn stock TRP semi-metallic front pads and replaced them with Shimano B01S resin units.





    Last edited by Type 100; 08-11-2014 at 04:42 AM.

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by gaffer View Post
    Front Wheel w/Rim Tape & Rotor - 1.15kg
    Rear Wheel w/Rim Tape & Rotor / Dork Disk & Cassette (30T-12T) 1.73kg
    I got 1775 for the rear and 1194 for the front.

    I just went to ebay 38mm chinese carbon wheels and got 1376 rear and 937 front with XT RT76 rotors.

    Can't run them yet because my tube valves are too short.

    Curious to see what shaving 1.4 pounds off the bike will feel like.

    Edit: Would have been nice before this yesterday, but I still made it up (Whiteface NY)


  40. #90
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    My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2

    That's a great pic!!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  41. #91
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    Installed SKS P45 Longboard full-length fenders on my bike. They advertise these as fenders with the most coverage. I know that SKS makes very good fenders because my Dahon Vitesse came with them as stock.




    Installation was a pain in the butt and wasn't as easy as it could have been, because the included instructions aren't idiot-proof. The hardest bit was measuring and cutting the steel stays, and actually fitting them to the fenders. If you don't know what you're doing, you can easily cut too much off the stays. Tweaking the fender height is important so that tire rubbing is avoided, and you can opt to minimize the fender gap as well.









    While it has fender eyelets, the Giant TCX SLR 2 doesn't have a brake bridge and chainstay bridge - two locations where a full-length fender usually anchors itself to the frame. I repurposed my rear reflector mount to act as a makeshift brake bridge, while I zip-tied the leading edge of the rear fender to the chainstays.




    Goodbye stained shirts and wet bum, hello cleaner drivetrain and all-weather commuting.

  42. #92
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    Has anybody else noticed the two little caps on the underside of the non-driveside chainstay? I was wondering what those were for. They look like "caps" but I can't remove them by hand, although they're loose and can be pressed in easily.

    One of the caps I'm referring to is on the left of the zip tie in the photo below. The other is just outside the frame

  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Type 100 View Post
    Has anybody else noticed the two little caps on the underside of the non-driveside chainstay? I was wondering what those were for. They look like "caps" but I can't remove them by hand, although they're loose and can be pressed in easily.

    One of the caps I'm referring to is on the left of the zip tie in the photo below. The other is just outside the frame
    Pretty sure they are for the DI2 battery.

    Mounted my new ebay carbon 38mm clincher wheelset + 700x28 conti gatorskins:



    No real impressions yet, been off the bike for a bit and pigged out on food so not feeling it.

    Based on the numbers bike should have lost almost 3lbs from the stock wheelset + marathon plus combo.

  44. #94
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    My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2

    Very nice!! I'm saving to do a set of Grails and King Hubs. Saving is a slow process 😡


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    @type 100, did you consider the SKS raceblade XL mudguards? They seem like they would be an easier fit.

  46. #96
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    My new 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2

    Quote Originally Posted by pitbullandmtb View Post
    Very nice!! I'm saving to do a set of Grails and King Hubs. Saving is a slow process 😡


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Actually, gonna do Grails and DT Swiss 240's...


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  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by P90Puma View Post

    Mounted my new ebay carbon 38mm clincher wheelset + 700x28 conti gatorskins:

    Awesome! Love the new wheels! Do you have an ebay-link? How much did you pay?

  48. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by MankyManning View Post
    @type 100, did you consider the SKS raceblade XL mudguards? They seem like they would be an easier fit.
    From what I understand, the Raceblades are a "temporary" fender set. I don't have plans of removing mine very frequently. Besides, it seems no matter what kind or size fenders you run, you will still have to deal with the little bolt under the fork steerer that anchors the front brake cable run, as it tends to push the leading edge of the front fender askew.

    I'm running 700x28C tires now. After the initial week, I've had to adjust the fenders to minimize gap while reducing the chances of the hardware rubbing on the spinning tire. So far so good.

  49. #99
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    Just got my 2015 TCX2 yesterday and am trying to set it up tubeless from the get-go.

    I need advice on setting up the super swans/stock rims tubeless? I used gorilla tape (1 inch role fit perfectly) and a gas station air compressor... But, I didn't hear the reassuring loud "pop/pop" that I hear whenever I set up my mtb tubeless (Stans Rims/Racing Ralfs TR). Neither f/r tire/rim combo was very tight, didn't need tools, which kinda makes me nervous...

    I was able to get the rear tire to seal on the first try and it held pressure overnight . I am still unable to get the rear tire to seal, so I stuck a tube in for the shakedown ride today.
    Thanks!

  50. #100
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    My Super Swans fit extremely loose on the SX-2 wheels. Not sure if it's a common thing, but it instantly turned me off to a successful tubeless setup.

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