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  1. #1
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    lightweight 120mm SS wheel?

    I recently got a SS CX bike and I wasnt expecting the wheels to weigh such a ridiculous amount and then it being so hard to find a decent wheelset because theyre 120mm.

    Replacing the front wheel is easy but Im having trouble figuring out what to do with the rear. What are some options I could do to make a lightweight 120mm wheel and where do people go to buy the hubs?

  2. #2
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    I'm assuming rim brakes? All-City makes a nice reasonably priced flip-flop hub, as do Surly...if you don't want to run very wide tires check out the Wabi Cycles sub-15 wheelset, at under 300 bucks it's probably the best deal on US hand-built wheels weighing in under 1500 grams, they are pretty narrow though and not tubeless ready but I have yet to ever see a pre-built tubeless ready track spaced wheelset.

  3. #3
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    Thanks the Wabi wheels dont sound bad, definitely much more reasonable weight than the 2200g monsters Ive seen elsewhere. The spoke count on the front is a bit worrying though, I wish there was a way to just buy the rear wheel.

    I may look into rear hub options and if its too much of a pain I will probably get the Wabi's.

  4. #4
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    I used to run Mavic Ksyriums with a spacer kit. Light, and strong for cross.

  5. #5
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    If you have a steel frame you may be able cold set it to fit 130mm. Its not a huge difference to spread half a cm on each side.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by khardrunner14 View Post
    If you have a steel frame you may be able cold set it to fit 130mm. Its not a huge difference to spread half a cm on each side.
    That doesn't really get the OP anywhere if he wants a dedicated SS rear hub...way more options in 120 than 130. If he's open to custom wheel building, there are lots of light flip flop hub options out there for 120, then it's just picking a light rim and spokes...130 just gets you into standard road spacing and then you lose most of the flip flop options and are resigned to a bunch of spacers and uneven dishing on the rear, which is not aesthetically pleasing and theoretically weaker.

    OP if you want custom go to prowheelbuilder.com and have at it...stans alpha 400 rims are light and have stood up to tons of SS abuse on my Vassago fisticuff.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmctav23 View Post
    That doesn't really get the OP anywhere if he wants a dedicated SS rear hub...way more options in 120 than 130. If he's open to custom wheel building, there are lots of light flip flop hub options out there for 120, then it's just picking a light rim and spokes...130 just gets you into standard road spacing and then you lose most of the flip flop options and are resigned to a bunch of spacers and uneven dishing on the rear, which is not aesthetically pleasing and theoretically weaker.

    OP if you want custom go to prowheelbuilder.com and have at it...stans alpha 400 rims are light and have stood up to tons of SS abuse on my Vassago fisticuff.
    True, but unless I missed it, he didn't say anything about a SS hub, only a lightweight wheelset. Those are far easier to find in 130mm. Just providing options.

  8. #8
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    Surly or Paul SS hub, Stans Alpha 340 rim.

    It would help if you provided more info. How much do you weigh? What is your budget? What are you weight goals? are you racing? How wide of a tire are you planning on running? etc.
    Rigid SS 29er
    Fat Lefty
    SS MonsterCross
    SS cyclocross
    all steel

    "Fully rigid" isn't a thing.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the suggestions, its an aluminum Specialized so I cant do much about bending the dropouts. When I got the bike I had no idea horizontal dropouts used oldschool 120mm spacing, if I had known I probably would have went with a normal bike and did a conversion. I dont need the fixy aspect of a hub, I tried it and really didnt like it.

    My goal with this bike was to have a fun lightweight social-bike I could ride around the city and not have to worry about being stolen. It needs to handle Green level dirt/gravel urban trails with mild ruts, hence the CX.

    I weigh 150lbs, the trails are kind of gravelly but the roads have a lot of cracks. Weight goals are lightest I can get without being expensive, so ideally I will build/buy a rear wheel and buy a used front road wheel separately for really cheap (I looked for used 120mm wheels and they are practically non-existent). There are some steep hills so any pound I can take off will help.

  10. #10
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    light, cheap, strong. pick two
    Rigid SS 29er
    Fat Lefty
    SS MonsterCross
    SS cyclocross
    all steel

    "Fully rigid" isn't a thing.

  11. #11
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    "light" compared to 2200grams, not light compared to ZIPP/ENVE. I would like to get a weight similar to a normal road wheel set which should eliminate almost 2lbs. My friend's SS is very light and full of crap components, but its a conversion and not a 120mm. I think my current wheelset is at least 2400g, its by far the heaviest wheelset Ive ever held so no matter what I buy it should be a big improvement.

  12. #12
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    Pre-built 120mm wheelsets tend to be pretty heavy duty because most people that use them and buy them are thrashing them in a rough urban environment. Go play on prowheelbuilder.com and you can see what things weigh out to...

  13. #13
    z1r
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    I ran the Wabi wheels on my Motobecane SSCX. Nice, light, and never had an issue. I did replace the bearings once during the two years I rode it.

    the wheels and a Bianchi carbon fork got me down to 20 lbs.

  14. #14
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    I have a Specialized Tricross Singlespeed (same as OP?) and have the same issue. I am planning to eventually just build new wheels because finding a light, tubeless, rim-brake, 120mm OLD wheelset will be impossible. The stock wheels are boat anchors, but seem reliable.

    It does seem like 120mm OLD hubs are unreasonably heavy and many are poorly sealed. The All-City looks OK, but I don't like that the seals appear to be exposed. Looking for a nutted, hollow-axle, well-sealed hub, but would certainly settle for a reliable heavy hub that isn't expensive.

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