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  1. #1
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    I want to build a nice set of CX wheels on the cheap. Any suggestions on parts?

    I want to build a nice set of CX wheels for my bike. I'd like them to be lighter than my current set, but cost efficiency is important too. Not sure of my current wheel weight, but
    Some pieces I am looking at now:

    Rims:
    WTB Frequency I23
    WTB ST i23 (any real differences between these two?)
    Velocity Deep V
    Mavic TN317
    Sun Ringle sr25 (lightest and cheapest... is that a bad thing?)

    Any other suggestions? Should I keep my current rims and just get a better hub/spokes? If I stick with the stock rims I can spend more on better hubs.

    Hubs:
    Pretty Much Shimano Deore or XT. I don't know much about hubs and what works best. Found a set of WTB Laser Disc Lite on Ebay for a good price too.

    Spokes:
    No clue. Would probably get from LBS.

    Other overall suggestions are very welcome.


  2. #2
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    I had WTB i19 for two years with XT hubs. It was a bombproof rim, but found it difficult to set up with non-WTB tires without adding more rim tape, and still a little bit of a pain. I have Stans Iron Cross now and am happy with the amount of tires that easily work with them and the ride quality, but don't have enough time to have a sense of the longevity, though they rate well around the forums.

  3. #3
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    Not Deep V. A23. That's the rim you want.

  4. #4
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    My sSun CR18s are cheap, light, utilitarian, and stiff. No bling factor, but bomber and more durable than my DT RR1.1s.

  5. #5
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    thanks for the replies so far. i plan to use there on some singletrack too, so too light isn't great, but I wouldn't expect anything too light for my price range anyway. I was thinking the deep Vs for mud and sand so they didnt pack over the rim and cause problems. is that not a good idea?

    i found a stands wheelset for around $600 after shipping, but thats the high end of my price range. i don't mind not having tubeless, but it is prefered over tubes if possible.

  6. #6
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    For what it's worth, I found the CR18 to be nice and stiff, much moreso than the DT. The DTRR1.1 was considerably stiffer than the Stans rims I tested for a few days. They are sexy light, but pretty flexy.

  7. #7
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    Is this workday primarily for cx (and cx tires)? If so, I would probably shot for a bit narrower rim than the i23, probably something like the i19. That also will drop your wheel weight. Some other rims to consider (note that i don't have any experience with any besides the velocity)...
    Velocity a23
    H+ son archetype
    Stan's iron cross
    Wtb i19

    Sent from a one-finger keyboard...pardon my autocorrect

  8. #8
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    i was reading about wider rims being better so your tire isn't as round, giving you a smoother ride with more traction.

  9. #9
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    A couple of good wheelsets that wouldn't break the bank and would be good to use on singletrack would be the AM Classic 29 tubeless @ 1600grams or Stan's Crest @ around the same weight. I've talked to several racers who have used these wheel sets to race in CX (with CX tires) and they've had great experiences. 29er XC wheelsets work great with tubeless ready CX tires.

  10. #10
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    The issue of going wider is weight. You mentioned that you wanted a lighter wheel set. I dug a bit, and it seems that your current rims are 505g each. At that point, all of the rims on your list weigh more than your current wheels.

    Not that weight should be the only factor, but you could easily drop 50-100g per wheel by going with a "cx-width" rim...something like 19mm interior/23mm exterior width. And the rim is where you will feel it most (much more than weight lost at hub)

    Sent from a one-finger keyboard...pardon my autocorrect

  11. #11
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    Check out bikehubstore.com Their hubs are cheap and light. I built up a set of Crests with them as well as a rear wheel for my buddy. They seem to be holding up fine. They have some cheap kinlin rims as well. You could build up a set of disc brake CX clinchers with their tubeless rims for around 300 or lace em to Crest's depending on your weight for about $350.

  12. #12
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    I went with the WTB i19 Frequency with Superstar EVO switch hubs, WTB double butted spokes and brass nipples. Rear came in at 940gr and front 830gr excluding disks.

  13. #13
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    Are you racing ? one issue with narrow rim clinchers on a cross bike that i have had is you can roll the tube out of a tire in a hard corner at low psi (did it with a challenge latex tube it blistered all the way around the bead, thankfully didnt pop but had tons of holes in it when i deflated it), especially on a non tubeless rim. Also about wider rims they make the tire less round shape so when one bead gets pushed very hard sideways it is less likely to release, and spit out your tube or burp if its tubeless. If you're not racing you will never experience that. How much where those wheels 1770g set is kind of heavy.

    I just put a set of reynolds R29 xc mountain wheels on my cross bike. 1600g 25mm wide. Few extra layers of rim tape and i got them to seal up with some clement clinchers tubeless. It was between these and iron cross team's but the reynolds were quite a bit cheaper EP, and also look a little more sturdy.

  14. #14
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    also if you want to save weight get rid of that fsa omega crank, that thing is a boat anchor the bb30 version with an alloy spinde was 900g+ . The mega exo one has to be close to 1200g with BB

  15. #15
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    Building wheels to replace functional and appropriate existing wheels is never cost efficient.

    If you're doing it anyway, do double-butted spokes. They're not much more expensive but they're stronger and a little lighter.

    Since you plan to ride off-road, look at XC 29er rims. I could swear wider rims let me get away with less air pressure and give me better stability. 19 mm between the beads would be good for all off-road duty, especially if you go to really monster (for a 'cross bike) tires. 17 mm between the beads will let you use 23 mm road tires if you like. The late, great Sheldon Brown has a chart of recommended tire and rim width pairings on his site. I don't think it applies that well to off-road bikes, but I like it for road bikes.

    Look at the weight of your tubes and tires. There are huge swings in weight between different products here and it's out where it counts the most. I've been buying lighter tubes lately because they're maybe a couple dollars more but they're also a couple ounces lighter. Nice.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stonerider View Post
    A couple of good wheelsets that wouldn't break the bank and would be good to use on singletrack would be the AM Classic 29 tubeless @ 1600grams or Stan's Crest @ around the same weight. I've talked to several racers who have used these wheel sets to race in CX (with CX tires) and they've had great experiences. 29er XC wheelsets work great with tubeless ready CX tires.
    Thanks for this info. I want to put some x tires an the fargo for faster riding on hard pack trails. I will throw some 35 tires on a set of EA 70 XC wheels and see how it goes. Saved me from buying a new wheelset
    2009 Salsa Fargo
    2012 Surly Pugsley
    2012 Cannondale SL4 29

  17. #17
    jrm
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    I built a cheapy wheelset using A23s laced 3x with dt spokes using a WTL laser lite hub in back and a DT 350 up front. Its light but i wish id had used hubs that were convertible so that i could use RWS Qrs. Next time i guess..
    Wreck the malls with cows on Harleys

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