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  1. #1
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    Help me build a Cross Check

    Put in an order with the LBS today for a 52 cm Cross Check frame set in dark dirty blue. After years of growing up riding bmx and mountain bikes, this is my first new frame and bike of this type.

    Naturally, being the cheap bastard that I am, I am looking for ways to make use of the parts in the bin of parts I've accumulated over the years. These are mostly mountain bike parts though, unfortunately. So I will need to figure out what I can and can't use. This is what I have in mind, please tell me if it won't work.

    Cranks - I have a set of Raceface turbine cranks and a set of Truvativ Stylo cranks, I'll probably use one or the other.

    Derailleurs/shifters - really considering going with some flat bars until I can score a set of Shimano 105s. Reason being that I have some SRAM X7 front and rear derailleurs and trigger shifters I can use in the mean time.

    Wheels/tires - I need to figure this out. What is generally recommended if I want to run fatter tires year round, with the possibility of fenders down the line? 32 spokes a good idea here? I've seen some wheelsets on craiglist with 20 spokes, and just by looking at them they don't look like a good idea for the type of riding I like to do. Is there a certain width of the rim I should be looking for for the cross check?

    Brakes - V-brakes - I have a ton of these. Avids, XTRs, Tektro, etc... Can I get away with running regular V-Brakes? I saw some mini tektro V brakes on craigslist for $20 front and rear, should I pick those up?

    Seatpost and seat I have covered.

    Sorry for the long winded post, I'll be back with pictures once the frame comes in. In the mean time, I'll be reading as much as I possibly can.

  2. #2
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    Cranks - unless those are square taper I think you'll have trouble getting them working with a 68mm bb shell

    Wheels/tires - If you want to run big tires a wider rim like a velocity a23 will be your friend. I would go with 32 spokes.

    Brakes - If you go with flat bars vbrakes will be easy, but you will need a travel agent type thing to make them work with drop bar levers when you eventually switch. I like the mini-v's.

    edit: Your post inspired me to try to sell my cross bike here (or part it out, which I think I actually prefer). I encourage you to take a look at my classified post 2010 Jamis Nova Race / Parts - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories, think I could help you with all of the above (and bars if you need em).
    Yeah I only carry cans cause I'm a weight weenie.

  3. #3
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    Help me build a Cross Check

    Thanks Alex.

    So why won't cranks other than square tapers work? Both bbs I have can work with 68 or 73mm shells depending on where you put the spacers. Does it have something to do with clearance?

  4. #4
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    Ah right a mountain crank probably can work with spacers on a road frame. You may have chainline issues but should be manageable. May need to use a mountain front derailleur.
    Yeah I only carry cans cause I'm a weight weenie.

  5. #5
    achiever
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    The rear spacing on a CC is 132.5 -1/2 way between road or mtb, you can run either spacing without issue. You'll have no problems with the Stylo GXP.

    I've been running mine on Mavic road wheels, 9speed with bar end shifters, GXP 50/36 Rolleur crank, an older 9spd XT rear derailleur coupled with a 10spd Tiagra FD, 11-32 cassette & a 10-speed chain. I'm setting it up now with a SRAM Rival 48/34 crank, 11-34 cassette & older 105 9spd brifters. Can't wait to get it set up & ride it this way.

    The CC is an awesome bike -you're going to love it!

  6. #6
    OSM
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    When I decided to use some of the parts I had sitting around I built my first cross bike, or whatever you wast to call it.

    It's got:
    2000 Hardrock comp frame (alum) on a salsa rigid fork
    I also had a Salsa chainring and seatpost clamp

    Some old wheels that were just waiting to get used -turned out to be just right IMO-
    they are 26'' Mavic 221 rims 32hole, rear is 3x on 1997 parralax hub & front is radial laced to a specialED sqraxle. this front end is very stiff and solid feeling.
    Tires are 2.1'' small block 8's

    i used v-brakes, but had to buy some tektro 522 levers

    the gearing is what troubled me the longest with this build so at first it was a SS.
    I wanted to use the X9 shifting stuff I had, but the shifter wouldn't fit the drop bar so I made my own mounting bracket.

    crankset is a raceface respond which at 900 grams is overkill on this bike, but the 6mm of chainline adjustment is nice. I wound up with a bit high of a gearing combo for long climbs 1x9 36t/ 12-23

    I am a big strong rider and need something beefy so it won't fail on the trails. At 23LBS its way more bike than my roadie but a featherweight compared to any of my MTBs.
    Bicycles D'opinion/ COMMENCAL /Principat D'Andorra

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the ideas, guys. I received the frame yesterday, and proceeded to chase and face it and then fog the insides with boiled linseed oil. Next will be assembly. I was able to source some parts from a friend, now I need a good solid wheel set.


  8. #8
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    I have been gathering parts for the same type of build. I have an older CC with a 1-in headtube, 52 c-c seat tube, and a bunch of mtb parts. Using an mtb crankset shouldn't be a problem. I'm planning on using an older RF prodigy square taper crank and ISIS bb. There shouldn't be a problem with the right spacers. I have a wheelset with the rear hub spacing being 135mm, the hubs are touring XT 32 hole with Mavic A119 rims. I'm hoping the chainline will be better with the wider hub than the standard 130mm road hub. The derailleurs I have are mtb shimano XT 9 speed and the shifters are bar-ends, indexed rear friction front. I had this setup on my RM hammer, but didn't like the feel of the drop bar mtb so it's transferring over. The hard part was finding a threadless 1" stem that I would be happy with, both in price and quality, got a Ritchey Speedblast off fleabay. I'm planning on using a Origin 8 gary bar or Salsa woodchipper. Brakes are older Avid SD7 with long pull Tektro drop bar levers. Other parts are nondescript OEM parts, most likely Kalloy-uno. I don't have tires yet, but will likely get as big as possible with fenders. FFF is the motto, I'll try and test that. Good luck with your build, I'll be curious to hear about any issues you encounter.
    Last edited by dbhammercycle; 03-11-2014 at 12:43 PM.
    No fuss with the MUSS

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