CX Build Questions
Wife has given me the go ahead to build a new bike.. it was either a 160mm Enduro rig or a CX bike. Well yesterday I saw the new Transition Rapture CX bike.. and it is stunning.. This bike will be a gravel grinder, commuter, amateur CX.
Found the following kit: Kinesis Crosslight Disc Build Kit Sports & Leisure | ProBikeKit.com
I want disc brakes. From looking at the specs below I will need the following parts.. Seatpost, Front Derailleur, Seatpost Clamp
I checked out the wheelset. It's a 10x135. So thats a big plus
Anyone that can help me figure out which front derailleur works for me. I will prob get a Chris King Headset.. maybe a Enduro kit and a better BB.
I need you guys to help as I have no knowledge about CX or Road related stuff..
Thanks alot guys.. any help would be great.
Transition Rapture CX Frame:
SEATPOST/CLAMP: 27.2mm Seatpost/29.8mm Clamp
HEADTUBE: 44mm Upper / 44mm Lower
BOTTOM BRACKET: 68mm BSA
REAR DROPOUT: 10 x 135mm (With Swinger Tension System)
FRONT DERAILLEUR: 31.8mm High Clamp (Bottom Pull)
Kinesis Build Kit:
Headset: FSA Orbit C-40-ACB- Tapered.
Headset Spacers: UPGRADE 1 1/8" x 5mm x 2,10mm x 1, 20mm x 1.
Handle Bar: FSA Omega Compact 420mm x 31.8
Stem: FSA OS 190 Laser 100mm.
Seat Post: FSA FSA SL 280.
Brakes: Tektro Lyra.
Crankset: FSA Omega CX 36/46 -172.5mm Mega Exo.
Chain: KMC X-10 114L.
STI Shifters: Shimano 105 5700 double.
Front Mech: Shimano 105 5700 31.8mm clamp-on.
Rear Mech: Shimano 105 5700 SS.
Cassette: Shimano 4600 10SP 11-25T.
Saddle: Freedom by WTB / Kinesis.
Bar tape: Velo Cork Tape.
Wheelset: Kinesis CX Disc.
Tyres: WTB Cross Wolf 32C.
Tubes: WTB 700C, 48mm Stem.
Seat Clamp: Kinesis Alloy 31.8mm.
Looks like all you'll need is a new seatpost clamp and a non-tapered headset.
All road front d's are bottom pull. Only ones I know of that aren't are the CX specific ones Shimano has in the CX70 line.
You can double check, but I'd bet the listed seatpost is a 27.2, that is pretty standard combo with a 31.8 seat tube.
I watched the video last night, pretty cool looking bike.
I've never kept an FSA crank for more than a month. Shimano all the way for that. If you can't get it swapped out, ride the FSA until you can't stand it anymore. You say you will replace the BB, which is my main issue with FSA, but why not be kind to yourself and replace the crank too. It's worth it.
Chris King headsets are amazing, but these days, headsets are all pretty good (Chris King came on the scene when almost all headsets were evil disasters, so it was a much bigger deal to have one), so you could save some money potentially with a Cane Creek or similar.
Depending where you live and ride, you may want lower gears. I started with standard cross gearing in N. California and I could handle it, so I soldiered on. Finally got the lower gears and rides became a lot more fun and my knees were happier.
CX Build Questions
I appreciate the help. Yeah. I did some FSA research today and they are apparently difficult in the least. I can get shimano/sram stuff much easier and cheaper. I'm really leaning towards real world cycling for my next bb and headset.
Originally Posted by DG Going Uphill
I have always had great experiences from from in customer service and great quality products.
What kind of gearing would you suggest ??
can't seem to delete a bad post???
What made it bad? I could do an 11-32.. thats a common MTB hub.. According to the internets I could do a 11-32t w/ a medium cage. Just need a simple swap.
I run 34/50 with an 11-32 (the mid-cage 105 can do it with an XT 10 speed cassette). I could see a 34/46 as being pretty awesome, as well. But I like to do very long rides where the majority of time is heading up on dusty trails, so it really depends on what you ride. I did fine before with a 34 x 27 and was mostly in the 34 x 24, but once you start to lose traction going up, standing is not an option, so if it's a long grind, lower gears mean you have more in the tank for other parts of the ride.
The good thing is that you can mix shimano STI road levers with most shimano MTB components and road specific disc brakes. After farting around with various set ups ive found i can use a ultegra triple crank with 40/28 chainrings using a stx FD and a XTR short cage RD with a 11-32. This gives me a boat load of choices and i can grind up almost anything. Wheel wise, i like building up my own using convertible MTB hubs laced to a nice wide road rim like the A23. Convertible hubs allow the use of thru axles which reduce qr-fork flex under the increased forces created by using a disc brake. The wider rims give the tire a wider profile so that its contact patch is a bit wider and the tire performs better when its rolled over. Lastly and really important is being comfortable on the bike for long periods of time. Chances are you wont get it perfect the first time and once you think your there it can always be tweaked a bit more here and there.
CX Build Questions
I know it will be a process to find what fits right.
Is there any reasonably priced carbon drop bars ? Sweet Jesus they are pricey.
I think I will replace components over time with Thomson bits after I go med cage der and 11-32 cassette.
You can't mix Shimano road shifters with Shimano Dyna-Sys 10 speed derailleurs - you'll need to use a 9 speed mech to keep the right cable-pull actuation ratio.
I'd use the top-pull CX70 front mech - cable run is far cleaner
Go for a tubeless compatible wheel rim.
Carbon bars on a CX/adventure bike is not a good idea IMO - they're not impact resistant enough.
Best bar ive used so far is the salsa cowbell. I use a thomson post mainly b/c of the micro adjustability.
CX Build Questions
Anybody seen a pair of whisky's carbon wheel set?? Pricey but beautiful ??
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