Converting to mini V how to?
Any have or know of a writeup on how to convert from canti's to mini V's? I ordered a set for the front of my Ridley, but not really sure how to make the swap.
Actually bolting them up looks easy enough, but not sure what exactly I need to do with the cables.
'12 Trek 6000
'11 Ridley X-Ride
Piece of cake, Mike. You'll need about 5 ft of new housing, new cables and some black electrical tape. The only specialty tool is cable housing cutter (I use a bolt cutter) and the rest are standard hand tools.
- Pull up shifter hood to expose the base and unwrap bar tape
- Remove crimped cable tip--try to ease it off so you can reuse
- Loosen cable anchor bolt, remove cable, housing and canti arms
- Install new brake arms per instructions. Leave the noodle side spring unhooked.
- Measure new housing--this is the key step. Run one end into the "port" under the shift lever, hold it against the handlebar (tape it in place if it helps) and then run it to the brake noodle. You don't want to add preload by using excess cable, just enough so that it flexes gently as it follows the noodle through its range of motion.
- Cut housing and then "round out" crimped opening with awl to ensure smooth cable travel
- Run new cable through lever and housing (housing should not be installed and taped to the bar for this step.)
- NOW tape housing to bar, install cable/housing to new brakes and check operation.
- If all looks good, clip excess cable, install crimp-on cable tip, rewrap bar tape, finish with electrical tape, make final brake adjustments, etc. have a cold one
- Main difference is that you'll be cutting new housing at the rear.
- Length is even more critical. You want the right amount of housing so that it "clings" to the seat tube and stays out of the way.
- Use a ferule on the housing which inserts into the top tube stop
- You might not need to replace cable, unwrap bar tape, etc if you have enough cable to reach the mini's. Doubtful but will save you time if you do.
I think you've got the rest. Again, the key is getting the housing length right. The rest is pretty straightforward. Let me know if you have questions.
From my franken. I used the rubber cable cover from my full size v-brakes since the gap is wider on an mtb fork. The cover that comes with the mini's is about 10mm shorter.
You might need a noodle with a slack adjuster. A well adjusted brake is pretty close to the rim, so you may not have the play to unhook the noodle when you want to remove the wheel. My Tektro RX5 was like that.
Jagwire 90 Degree Brake Noodle with Barrel Adjuster Silver - Newegg.com
Thanks for the info Joe, doesn't sound too bad. I only plan on doing the front, my rear brakes work fine as they are.
Mud, I ordered that exact piece along with the brakes!
'12 Trek 6000
'11 Ridley X-Ride
You might even get away with using your original cables. When I converted my wife's Redline the cable lengths were so close I could reuse them.
2009 Redline Conquest Pro, 2008 Trek Fuel Ex8
2007 Kona Cinder Cone utility bike
Yes I spent too much on bikes.
I used Travel Agents on my Avanti Blade conversion to get the brakes behaving better.
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