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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    The top axle is the wrong one.
    The shorter/correct version is below.
    Attachment 984808

    Now that I'm looking at it- I think I may have spoken without cause. A common MTBR affliction.

    In your shot, the axle end nut looked just like I remembered the one that was wrong.
    And- I was wrong- they aren't even close!
    You're probably fine.
    Sorry to spook you!

    -JCB
    Actually, what I received was like neither of what you show in the picture. I received a flange-less barrel nut that bottoms out in the recessed portion of the fork axle thru hole. It has one set of flats to wrench on if needed. I'm nearly certain it works, by measurement. I'm waiting on 15mm cups for my Hope hub to test it absolutely. Here is a pic of the front. The rear has a flange with flats for box wrench.Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-imag0107_1_1%5B1%5D.jpg
    Not that spooked. I have access to a machine shop so I can get something made if I need to, but don't think so. I believe your persistence with MB forced them to get their act together - JCB

  2. #402
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    Oh one more thought on the barrel nut now being supplied with the thru axle. I will likely put an oring in the notch around the circumference of the nut. This will hopefully act like press fit to hold the nut in the fork while changing it the field. The rear nut can be held in by way of a setscrew in the rear dropout - nice feature by the way.Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-imag0116_1%5B1%5D.jpg

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by qspencer View Post
    My frames should be arriving this week.
    I posted that, and an hour later they showed up at my door, sooner than I was expecting. It turns out they included headsets even though I didn't explicitly ask for them. I do need seatpost collars still. The frames look awesome, great quality finish. No time for pictures right now, but I'll do so later.

  4. #404
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    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle

    Quote Originally Posted by Hurricane Jeff View Post
    Let me get this straight, a SRAM 10spd clutch derailluer works with 10 spd Campy shifters? My Record 10 rear derailluer barely works with an 11-28 cassette( thought they could go up to a 29t) I was hoping for a little more low end range.
    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I'm a bit skeptical as well.

    Campy 10s didn't work very well with Shimano/SRAM cassettes. Like, at all. I'm having a hard time imagining a Campy RD matched with a SRAM shifter and anything nice resulting.
    If you have campy shifters and derailleur it will NOT work with SHIMANO/SRAM cassettes.

    However it is fairly well known in the CX world that campy 10 brifters pull the same amount of cable as SRAM shifters making them work just fine with SRAM 10 speed derailleurs and shimano/SRAM 10 speed cassettes.




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    My road bike, have 2 other bikes setup with campy levers. 1000s of miles with no issues.


  5. #405
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    I'm running a SRAM 11-28 10 spd cassette with my Campy Record 10 on my cross bike, it does work fine except the for the 25 and 28t,which the 25t does make noise and will sometimes skip, trimming the shifter does help though. The problem that I'm having mostly is that the rear derailluer doesn't seem to like the 28t, while it works fine in that gear, it sometimes sticks and will not shift down without fuss, not sure if it's a derailluer or cassette problem. Switching to a Campy free hub body is not an option, thinking about the Wheels Mfg, Campy conversion cassette, but it's an 11-30, and if my derailluer is having trouble with the current 28t, wondering if the 30t would work.

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurricane Jeff View Post
    I'm running a SRAM 11-28 10 spd cassette with my Campy Record 10 on my cross bike, it does work fine except the for the 25 and 28t,which the 25t does make noise and will sometimes skip, trimming the shifter does help though. The problem that I'm having mostly is that the rear derailluer doesn't seem to like the 28t, while it works fine in that gear, it sometimes sticks and will not shift down without fuss, not sure if it's a derailluer or cassette problem. Switching to a Campy free hub body is not an option, thinking about the Wheels Mfg, Campy conversion cassette, but it's an 11-30, and if my derailluer is having trouble with the current 28t, wondering if the 30t would work.
    I don't have that issue I am running a 28t max rear on my small cage derailleur.

    I would recommend that you try and get a hold of a SRAM shifter if possible to see if it's the campy but I doubt that it is. The campy pulls a super tiny amount of cable overall but it's not enough to matter and can be completely tuned out with the use of low and high travel screws.

    A trick I do on all my bike not just the campy rival setup but on my mountain bikes is a set the travel limit for the smallest gear a little loose so it add a bit of tension to my shift cable. Not a lot but enough that the cable is never super loose. Then of course for the large gear I set it so that even if I'm pressing hard on the lever after shifting into the large gear it won't go over and into my spokes.

    I never go over and I never have any grinding or what not.

    Granted I am using the high end cables on all my rear derailleurs. I only use cheap cables on the front derailleurs.

    Not sure if that matters.


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  7. #407
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    Suffer-
    That nut looks great.
    You could even drill a small hole in the fork collar and then put a 2mm screw into it, butting into the groove of the nut. That way it'll still turn to take up tension as needed, but is captured in the collar.
    Don't think I'd do it, but you could.

    And on a side note- after more and more miles on this bike.
    Moving the bars a bit. Pushed the saddle forward some.
    It's gotten comfy and I need to say... I REALLY LIKE THIS BIKE!
    It's a great frame/fork.

    Can anyone currently riding give me an idea of the thrashing you've given it?
    Not road, not commuting, but perhaps single track abuse?
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  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Suffer-
    That nut looks great.
    You could even drill a small hole in the fork collar and then put a 2mm screw into it, butting into the groove of the nut. That way it'll still turn to take up tension as needed, but is captured in the collar.
    Don't think I'd do it, but you could.

    And on a side note- after more and more miles on this bike.
    Moving the bars a bit. Pushed the saddle forward some.
    It's gotten comfy and I need to say... I REALLY LIKE THIS BIKE!
    It's a great frame/fork.

    Can anyone currently riding give me an idea of the thrashing you've given it?
    Not road, not commuting, but perhaps single track abuse?
    So what's the deal with these forks? None of them are threaded in the fork itself? That's kind of a bummer. I'd certainly wanna try and do something. Maybe epoxy or something. Not a deal breaker and not enough to deal with QR but geeze guys. Spend a few bucks to do it right?


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  9. #409
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    You are accurate Giv.
    The forks aren't threaded so it's not a Rock Shox 15mm, not a Fox...
    Evidently just a Miracle.
    So go on a road trip? Take this bike? Lose or damage the MB 15mm axle? You're out of luck.

    Would be cool to try and modify some RS to this fork.
    Or add one of these instead. Only a little bit more than what I spent on my frame/fork.
    https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.p...1251&catid=206
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  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    So what's the deal with these forks? None of them are threaded in the fork itself? That's kind of a bummer. I'd certainly wanna try and do something. Maybe epoxy or something. Not a deal breaker and not enough to deal with QR but geeze guys. Spend a few bucks to do it right?


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    Yes, it's a poor design. Not necessarily the fact of not having a threaded insert, but the fact that there is a little play radially in the recessed through hole on the barrel nut side of the fork. A fraction of a millimeter radially in any direction could mean a mm or two at the rim or tire edge. As I mentioned in an earlier post I'm planning on an o-ring or some other centering device on the barrel nut so that it is centered when the axle cinches down (and so that it stays with the fork and doesn't pop out). I'm not prepared (yet) to epoxy something in or afix wtih a setscrew. A press fit barrel nut would make more sense, but is an unlikely option as the inset part of the thru hole is not machined - only formed. The cam side of the fork has a Al insert for centering the axle, but the tolerance is poor. There's some slop in there as well, and I guess this would all depend upon how your axle cups fit into the features on the inside of the fork. But it's a frame and fork for $500. That TRP fork alone that JCB mentions is almost $600.

  11. #411
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    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle

    Wow... I'm wondering if QR is the way to go on this and sell the QR fork once an affordable thru axle fork comes out. My hubs are convertible... Ghetto thru axle doesn't sound better than old school QR. Plus I'd be able to use my roof rack instead of my trunk rack.


    So none of those cheaper forks on eBay are proper thru axle?

    And also I get the whole $500 comparison but these bikes are coming from the source with very little mark up. Your carbon bikes that you buy at the shop have been marked up by the manufacturer, then the bike company, then the distributed, then the bike shop! So that $1500-2000 bare frame from name that big company probably cost $200-400 to make in Taiwan. I know that's not the case for ALL companies but it is the case for many!



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  12. #412
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    I hear you Giv.
    Seems like it'd be a small amount of $$ during manufacturuing to make these forks considerably better at the TA.
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  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    I hear you Giv.
    Seems like it'd be a small amount of $$ during manufacturuing to make these forks considerably better at the TA.
    I wonder if it's some sort of patent issue. Heck I'd be willing to pay extra for proper thru axle. Do a QR option, crap thru axle and good thru axle. Call the crap one something decent lol.

    15mm thru axle and 12x142 rear is just becoming a reality in retail stores and maybe not even quite a reality yet. It will get to the point where multiple manufacturers offer affordable forks with good thru axle design.


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  14. #414
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    So are both the rear and front some half assed through axles, the frame/fork is not threaded? Or em I misinterpreting the discussion.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    So are both the rear and front some half assed through axles, the frame/fork is not threaded? Or em I misinterpreting the discussion.
    I'm sure the drop out is threaded either that or I quit


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  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    I'm sure the drop out is threaded either that or I quit


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    Time to tap out Giv. The rear dropout is not threaded. It has the same basic design as the front, with the difference being that the dropout is Al. The non-thread side has nice tolerance to fit the axle and the threaded side has a barrel nut that fits into the opposing Al Dropout. This fit is much tighter and looks to be an okay design. The rear dropout on the threaded side has a setscrew to hold the barrel nut in place. I posted a picture above where you can see the axle bare with nut and in the frame with wheel attached.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by SufferFest View Post
    Time to tap out Giv. The rear dropout is not threaded. It has the same basic design as the front, with the difference being that the dropout is Al. The non-thread side has nice tolerance to fit the axle and the threaded side has a barrel nut that fits into the opposing Al Dropout. This fit is much tighter and looks to be an okay design. The rear dropout on the threaded side has a setscrew to hold the barrel nut in place. I posted a picture above where you can see the axle bare with nut and in the frame with wheel attached.
    Wow...

    Are the frames QR / Thru specific or is the drop outs?

    This has to be related to patents... Like maxle and stuff like that.


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  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    Wow...

    Are the frames QR / Thru specific or is the drop outs?

    This has to be related to patents... Like maxle and stuff like that.


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    The Frame is generic. it accepts inserts for QR or TA dropouts. The dropouts can be changed out with two small M8 (i think) bolts

    Looks like Carver Bikes adopted the same (similar or better) approach.

    Ti 420 Update - Carver Bikes

  19. #419
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    Yep- if the TA rear issue is a deal breaker for you, consider getting the frame w/ the QR drops.
    If you order them and they don't show- let me know.
    I'm sitting on 2 of them w/o need.


    But, as stated above, minimal movemenet at the axle = perhaps too much movement at the tires edge.
    I also agree w/ the explanation of the fittings.
    The rear TA is a much better set up than the front.
    -JCB
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  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Yep- if the TA rear issue is a deal breaker for you, consider getting the frame w/ the QR drops.
    If you order them and they don't show- let me know.
    I'm sitting on 2 of them w/o need.


    But, as stated above, minimal movemenet at the axle = perhaps too much movement at the tires edge.
    I also agree w/ the explanation of the fittings.
    The rear TA is a much better set up than the front.
    -JCB
    So I think I'll get both tear drop out types and do QR up front. I'm glad I read all this.




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  21. #421
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    Can you source this frame w/ a QR front fork?
    In my experience I only saw it as a TA front, and optional rear.
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  22. #422
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    How is the quality of the front/rear TA then?

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    So I think I'll get both tear drop out types and do QR up front. I'm glad I read all this.




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    Giv. Your making the assumption that QR is perfect, which may not be the case. Personally, I would order both dropouts for rear and for front determine what is more valuable to you from a disk wheel perspective. If I were to order again I'd go with the TA. I prefer the strength and stability with discount brakes plus the wheel interchange with my other mountain bikes over the perfect alignment
    issues Of the TA. I'm not an avid road or cross biker. I mountain bike and wanted a cheap road gravel machine. Maybe you should consider a better quality frame. Santa Cruz brought back the stigmata with thru axles.

  24. #424
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    Here's how I see TA in general.
    The interface between the outer axle surface and the inner fork surface has to be as close as possible while allowing the axle to be pulled free when needed.
    That's why I like the design of the Maxle over the Fox axles. At least the RS Maxle expands slightly on one end, screws in on the other.
    But the Fox is an easier to use design and it's not like you see issues w/ their system anyway.

    On the Miracle, the interface between the left side of the fork (disc side) is close, not sloppy but not quite as tight as a Fox or RS.
    The right side of the fork is where there could be an issue, though is hasn't presented in my use yet.
    On the R side, there is a bit more room where the axle comes thru the fork, then you add the nut and snug it up.
    The success or failure of it is based on the clamping force of the axle's QR, not the close tolerances (or lack of) on the R side of the fork.

    But- on the rear, it's a good snug fit between the axle and the drops on EACH side.

    Oh- perhaps I just now understood you actual question.
    The quality of the actual TA, not the system. Jeez.
    I could have made this easier.

    The MB axles are fine. Nothing amazing to be sure, but fine.
    You don't get the gradual addition of tension as you close the lever that you imght get w/ a Salsa or Shimano lever.
    It's much more abrupt. A small amount of lever movement is the difference between lost and tight.

    But in use? It works just fine.
    Clear as mud?
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  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by SufferFest View Post
    Giv. Your making the assumption that QR is perfect, which may not be the case. Personally, I would order both dropouts for rear and for front determine what is more valuable to you from a disk wheel perspective. If I were to order again I'd go with the TA. I prefer the strength and stability with discount brakes plus the wheel interchange with my other mountain bikes over the perfect alignment
    issues Of the TA. I'm not an avid road or cross biker. I mountain bike and wanted a cheap road gravel machine. Maybe you should consider a better quality frame. Santa Cruz brought back the stigmata with thru axles.
    I don't think the frame is low quality. There is no reason for it to be. I have mountain bikes that are QR I like 15mm through but it's not the end of the world especially on a rigid bike. I was under the impression you could choose between a thru or QR front fork. If not no big deal. I can sell the fork and run one I prefer. The frame is the most important thing.

    I get what your trying to do though. Wether conscious or not. I'm not ripping this frame or fork. I understand that there could be patent issues. Even that other company that chose the non threaded drop out most likely had other reasons than stated. It's a drop out its replaceable. Doesn't matter if it gets damaged.

    Anyways I want a frame that has 12x142 rear as an option. If it doesn't work out that's what the QR drops are for.


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  26. #426
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    Well said Suffer.
    You make good points.

    Thumbs up for the Stigmata if you are sitting on plenty of $$.
    If you are considering the Stigmata as a bike, there are ample other options out there.
    That Pivot Vault has my attention!
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  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Well said Suffer.
    You make good points.

    Thumbs up for the Stigmata if you are sitting on plenty of $$.
    If you are considering the Stigmata as a bike, there are ample other options out there.
    That Pivot Vault has my attention!
    No way man.No Stigmata for me. More than happy with the Miracle. We have to face the reality that these shops are not bike company s, the are manufacturing houses. I deal with it every Fay in my day job. There's no patent on a standard, maybe an exclusively agreement. That's what you get with a brand bike, the specification. Anyone can mtg it.

  28. #428
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    True.
    But the heart wants what the heart wants.

    Now- let's get down to brass tacks-
    When will they make a carbon frame with couplers?
    What? Too soon?
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  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    True.
    But the heart wants what the heart wants.

    Now- let's get down to brass tacks-
    When will they make a carbon frame with couplers?
    What? Too soon?
    What's that.

  30. #430
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    I think it's lower quality.
    In design and quality control.

    -The insets of the internal cable routes are thin pressed metal barely held in place w/ teeny screw.
    -There's no internal routing of the internal routes. If that makes any sense! Any cable inside the frame will just rattle itself against the inner carbon. That or you need to run full housing.
    -Some bike arrive w/ pre-routed tubes, some don't.
    -My headset bearings are resting in their cups. A bucket or six of grease will keep it quiet over the season.
    -My previous BSA adapter issues don't need to be gone in to. But- some glue there would have helped.
    -The rear dropouts are held in place w/ 2.5mm screws. 2.5!! Teeeeeeeeny little things.
    In between the rear drops and the frame is paint. So after that chips/wears away the drops will be pressed up against what? What, besides the squish of the rear axle, will be holding the drops to the frame? Screws about as thick as a dime?

    And I still, even after all that and all my hurdles, really like this bike.
    I think, as buyers, most of us would consider this unacceptable if we were paying the insane prices that SC charges for their frames and a whopping two year warranty.

    I like these as an option. I'm glad to see that such sellers are out there kicking big S and Trek in the junk now and then.
    But, to me, No- these are not the same quality or or QC of other options.
    And for $480 USD, I wouldn't expect them to be.
    Even a steel Asian made Surly costs this much for a frame/fork!
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  31. #431
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    damn JCB, you dont paint a pretty picture of the frame....should one be worried about the robustness of the design?

  32. #432
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    The robustness is something I'm waiting to learn more about.
    I've asked in this thread for reports of abused and happy frames but haven't heard back yet.

    But these folks make mountain bikes too and it's not like they are cracking and falling apart.
    I don't have an answer for you yet but anticipate things will be fine.
    Given the mileage some riders have, and perhaps heavier riders or heavier loads- I think if here were more issue, we'd be hearing about them already.

    In short- I like our chances with this frame and I believe my concerns will ultimately be unfounded.
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  33. #433
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    JCB: I believe the 142x12 dropouts on your frame are the same ones used on the IP-057, -256, -036, and many others in both the 27.5 and 29er forums.

    I've been riding mine, in all conditions, for over about a year and a half now. I swapped to a DT Swiss e-thru axle right off the bat; I have them on multiple bikes. Used the set screw to keep the nut in place and, aside from swapping wheels, I never think about it.

    Mine is a HT 29er, that serves as my "interval day" and race bike. I have a Stages power meter on that bike, thus it gets most of the miles, to include several hundred hours on the trainer this winter. So far, not a peep, and the spare 142x12 dropouts sit in my toolbox.
    Death from Below.

  34. #434
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    LeDuke-
    I only intend to use this frame as a spare to my September Tuesday Race bike that is normally used during muddy days of delivering opera news letters to orphans.

    But in all seriousness- THANK YOU!
    That's the type of real world use/info that easy trumps my hypothetical concerns.
    Thanks.
    I won't worry about them again.
    -JCB
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  35. #435
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    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle

    I should have said: I have a road bike, a Santa Cruz TB LTC, and a Chinese carbon HT 29er that uses the same 142x12mm dropouts. It sees 4-6 days of use/week, on rocky, root infested western VA mountain singletrack. No problems.
    Death from Below.

  36. #436
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    Le duke, are these the axles you use http://www.dtswiss.com/Components/RWS/RWS-E-Thru ?

  37. #437
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    On the rear, yes. The front is a RS, to match the SID it holds together.
    Death from Below.

  38. #438
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    does anyone have a close-up picture on how the drop-out looks like?

  39. #439
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    Death from Below.

  40. #440
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    Everything above the spoke ruler is DT Swiss.
    Death from Below.

  41. #441
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    Thanks,

  42. #442
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    I got my frame in early February and I have been working on branding it myself, (Ralston Bikes) over the last several month. I am finally happy with the out come after many different layout and color schemes.

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-frame-2.jpgChinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-head-badge-1.jpgChinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-frame-3.jpgChinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-ralston-1.jpgChinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-refined-1.jpg

    The Ralston Bike brand is named and based on Scotchman named Lewis Ralston who was the first European to find gold in the state of Colorado. The arrow that lines the top tub is in honor of the Cherokee Indians that were the first people group to discover gold in what is now known as Ralston Creek.

    The CX bike model is the GOLD RUSH.

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by c1gary View Post
    I got my frame in early February and I have been working on branding it myself, (Ralston Bikes) over the last several month. I am finally happy with the out come after many different layout and color schemes.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The Ralston Bike brand is named and based on Scotchman named Lewis Ralston who was the first European to find gold in the state of Colorado. The arrow that lines the top tub is in honor of the Cherokee Indians that were the first people group to discover gold in what is now known as Ralston Creek.

    The CX bike model is the GOLD RUSH.
    Who did your stickers/decals? They are dope


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  44. #444
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    Thanks! I have a table top vinyl cutter and I designed, cut and apply all the decals.

  45. #445
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    Nice work!

  46. #446
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    Gary-
    That is beautiful!
    Well done sir. Looks like your time and efforts paid off. I'm envious of how sharp the understated look is.

    On the other hand-
    Rode single track today and it was wonderful.
    The bike worked great and my confidence in it continues to grow.
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  47. #447
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    Here's mine:


  48. #448
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    That probably isn't safe...
    Death from Below.

  49. #449
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    How many spacers is that? I'm in the process of setting up two bikes, a 58 cm for myself and a 48 cm for my wife. It took 6 cm worth of spacers to get the handlebars at the comparable height to the road bike she is used to. Compared to that road bike, this frame has a relatively high bottom bracket and short head tube. I'm also having difficulty getting the saddle back far enough on the 48 cm frame, even with a setback seatpost, because of the exceptionally steep seat tube angle. What's the setback on that seatpost? Lastly, I'm curious what wheels you're using.

  50. #450
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    Qspencer why not buy a high angle degree stem?

  51. #451
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    Shutter Precision pd-8x dynamo front hub
    bikehubstore.com rear hub
    Velocity dyad rims (reflective)
    Vittoria Voyager Hyper 32mm tires
    Paul tall & handsome seatpost, 26mm setback
    105 5800 groupset
    TRP spyre brakes
    Salsa Cowbell bars
    Brooks Cambium C17 carved saddle
    Performance Bike Forte stem
    8 cm of spacers

    I built it up for randonneuring and possibly some gravel riding. Rode 4000 feet up a mountain yesterday to test it out, and it's so smooth! I'll probably be lowering the bars a few centimeters.

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    Qspencer why not buy a high angle degree stem?
    I may yet do that. I didn't realize how many spacers I would need until I had bought the stem and started setting the bike up. I knew the head tube was a little shorter than the road bike I'm using as reference, but the high bottom bracket contributed another 1-2 cm.

  53. #453
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    What is the general consensus here on these....what manuf.? Should be able to build up a frame with Iron Cross wheels and 105 w/discs for ~$1800 by the looks of it. Not a bad deal.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2018 Niner RKT 9 RDO - enduro are #@$%

  54. #454
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    If I'm going to summarize the issues on this frame:
    - rough headtube/headset interface - fixed by light sanding
    - incorrectly delivered specs (BSA/press fit)
    - missing items, 142 drop out, 15mm ta axle/nut
    - incorrect 15mm axle nut

    I understand that MB has been responsive in addressing these concerns, but has these been eliminated or at least prevented from recurring?

    Any recent orders that were fullfilled 100% successful?

    Is it a requirement that the axles be ordered from MB as well? Isn't DT swiss RWS going to work with 12x142 and 15TA?

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    Any recent orders that were fullfilled 100% successful?
    I recently ordered 2 frames and consider my order to be 100% successful. No apparent issues with finish of the frame, axles work OK, and BB was BSA as ordered (and does not appear to be an inserted sleeve as JCB experienced).

    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    Is it a requirement that the axles be ordered from MB as well? Isn't DT swiss RWS going to work with 12x142 and 15TA?
    I haven't tried it with other axles, and I'm not familiar with the axle standards to know whether others would work.

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    What is the general consensus here on these....what manuf.? Should be able to build up a frame with Iron Cross wheels and 105 w/discs for ~$1800 by the looks of it. Not a bad deal.
    I'm using 105 with a cheaper set of wheels (Mavic Crossride) and I think I'm going to be somewhere around $1600 total. That includes a $60 paint job. You may be able to hit $1800 with Iron Cross wheels depending on what you spend on the other parts.

  57. #457
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    For the front:

    RWS from DT swiss: DT Swiss - RWS 15 mm
    Maxle from RS: https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/maxle-lite-15mm

    The biggest concern here in the front is the right side axle nut. The fork that comes with this frame doesn't seem to 'lock' the nut on the dropout similar to the Whiskey, Fox, Marz, RS, etc... From what I've read on this thread, the fork dropouts are only being held by the threads of the screw which holds the hub between. The nut doesn't even seem to be bound/installed to the dropout at all, literally its just a nut that you install/uninstall.





    For the rear:
    12x142 RWS from DT swiss: DT Swiss - RWS E-Thru
    12x142 Maxle from RS: https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/rear-maxle-lite

    If the rear dropouts are spec'd correctly 'thickness' wise, the 2 above should be usable - without the nut that is because the MB DS dropout comes with integrated nut.

    Given that manufacturers include the nut in the rear axle, it would be easy to fabricate the rear dropouts since one doesn't have to thread from an intruded section of the DS dropout.

    From an axle standards POV (if that exists at all lol), overall, I see no issues on the rear, but the front looks troublesome because of the flimsy right side nut as there isn't even a metal bush or insert that comes with the fork dropouts to protect the CF materal.

    Has anyone actually ridden this build on the trail? not really a CX race, but on a CX trail (ie not on the road)

  58. #458
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    Closer to Perfect

    Over the last few weeks I've been tweaking the riding position (was surprised to find that moving my seat forward helped! And I lowered the bars) and other bits are morphing.

    The Wheels Manufacturing eccentric BB took some learning, but is now slip free and silent.
    (Am I the only one using this frame as a SS? If not, how did you guys deal w/ chain tension?)

    The rear tire (WTB Nano 40) is too big. It works and is rub free but one good go in the mud, one good kaCHANG against a rock and the wheel will do some real damage to the frame as I pedal/limp home. I'll find something a bit more narrow.

    The bars are lower, there are less spacers now. The hoods have moved.
    Did I already tell you that the TRP Hylex brakes are amazing? Well, they still are.

    And folks?
    I LOVE THIS BIKE! (typed as I sit here w/ helmet still on after a ride)
    You hear me Miracle??! You did great by me.
    Some road, lots of single track, and plenty of smiles.

    And MTBR? You too. This thread has helped me plenty.
    Thanks Everyone.

    And if you're on the fence about this frame/fork?
    If it fits your needs, if you want discs, wide tire clearance, low cost, etc.
    GET IT.
    If you are a buyer that reall regrets the purchase of this frame, I'd love to know why.
    -JCB
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  59. #459
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    I have another 100% successful order for frame, TA, headset, seatpost and bottle cages. I received the shipment about 2 weeks ago

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutestory View Post
    Here's mine:

    Yes that is scary amount of headtube spacers. Just asking for tons of pressure on that headtube! Drop it about halfway and I would feel better for your life.
    Larry Miller-
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  61. #461
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    So what's the deal here?
    Short, as in way short, way too short? Head tubes?
    Why are we seeing folks (myself included) wanting to use plenty of spacers to put the bars where we want em?

    In my case, it's not the frame size. A larger frame would help some but my post would be slammed into the frame.

    I'm all about being up. If I were to graph my bikes over the years, I might be on a recumbent by the time I'm 60!
    My touring bike looks like something a kid would deliver papers on but it's as comfy as I've known. It was the Surly Open Bar that saved that old Salsa from hook. Big old hoopty bars on that skinny steel frame. Comfy. All day comfy.

    Anyway- headtube is too short? Is that what we're seeing?
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  62. #462
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    From what I can see, the stack on the miracle bike is quite alot lower than on other similar sized cyclcocross bikes

  63. #463
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    what size do you suggest for a 5'8" male with 30" inseam?


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  64. #464
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    Spyg- I can't say but I"m about 5/09 w/ about a 32 and am on a 54.
    Larger wouldn't have worked.
    Smaller would have been even worse!
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  65. #465
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    Yeah the stack is lower. The geometry curiously similar to the Focus Mares CX. Just a mm or two off in most dims. Many of the other cross frames have another 20mm of stack height for the same frame size.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by SufferFest View Post
    Yeah the stack is lower. The geometry curiously similar to the Focus Mares CX. Just a mm or two off in most dims. Many of the other cross frames have another 20mm of stack height for the same frame size.
    Perhaps a stem with a rise should be used instead ie 17*


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  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by SufferFest View Post
    Yeah the stack is lower. The geometry curiously similar to the Focus Mares CX. Just a mm or two off in most dims. Many of the other cross frames have another 20mm of stack height for the same frame size.
    For sure, this bike is very close to Focus - Bikes | 2015 | Cyclocross | Mares CX |...

    I wonder if Focus Axles could be compatible...

  68. #468
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    Wolla-
    You are comparing the MB frame to focus by mostly numbers only? By their geometries?
    Visually the frames seem different.

    I'd love to know of any other frame out there that is the same as this.
    Same as in- it pops out of the same mold.
    Anyone have other possible candidates for the MB frame's more expensive twins?

    And after looking at the Focus axles- Man! I'd love to know if they will work in a Miracle.
    -JCB
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  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    what size do you suggest for a 5'8" male with 30" inseam?
    I'm 5'8" with a 31" inseam. The 52cm fits well apart from the low stack height. Your reach is maybe a bit longer, so you'd want a 100-110mm stem.

  70. #470
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    With all of the talk about potential safety risks from using too many spacers, does anyone know what those risks are and how many spacers is generally considered safe? Have carbon steerer tubes been known to fail, and where is the failure point?

    I'm setting up two of these bikes, and it looks like I'll have 4 cm of spacers on mine and 6 cm on my wife's. While mine is a 33% smaller gap between headset and stem, I also weigh about 40% more and am using a 20% longer stem, so it's plausible I'm putting more stress on the steerer tube.

    If this really is a risk running 6 cm of spacers, it looks like I can go to a 17 degree stem and remove 2, but I'd like to understand this issue better before I go buying more parts.

  71. #471
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    QBP restricts the number of spacers to 5cm - how much safety factor is built into that is unknown. Their thru axle fork is also rated for ASTM Class 2 (6" drops, occasional loss of ground contact). So if you plan to strictly gravel grind and run 1cm extra spacer, well...

  72. #472
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    Larry Miller-
    www.laxon3.tumblr.com

  73. #473
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    There are classifications for forks??! ASTM Class 2?
    Well there goes a few hours of my day reading up on that new info.

    And as for the broken BMX bike clip....
    Oh god. Shame on me for watching it 2x. It'll flit thru my brain as I rip down single track.
    Thanks for that.

    -JCB
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  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    What is the general consensus here on these....what manuf.? Should be able to build up a frame with Iron Cross wheels and 105 w/discs for ~$1800 by the looks of it. Not a bad deal.
    I've gotta admit guys....I've been following this thread for months and was giving serious consideration to one of these frames....But then I realized that for only $1800 Canadian (thats like $20 USD these days, bahaha) I could buy a brand new Giant TCX Advanced Pro 2 off the shelf with a full 105 group (well...with an FSA Crank)... shopping around I've managed to build it up with Sram Force CX-1 for Under $2100...with full warranty. That makes all of the pain of dealing with a Chinese manufacturer seem kinda..... I dunno.... risky?Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-img_4051.jpg

  75. #475
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    Looks nice gz

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twiggy View Post
    I've gotta admit guys....I've been following this thread for months and was giving serious consideration to one of these frames....But then I realized that for only $1800 Canadian (thats like $20 USD these days, bahaha) I could buy a brand new Giant TCX Advanced Pro 2 off the shelf with a full 105 group (well...with an FSA Crank)... shopping around I've managed to build it up with Sram Force CX-1 for Under $2100...with full warranty. That makes all of the pain of dealing with a Chinese manufacturer seem kinda..... I dunno.... risky?
    Giant's US web site is showing a suggested retail of $2350 on that bike: TCX Advanced Pro 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States. That usually means you can find a shop willing to sell it to you for 10% less than that, of course. Looking at the specifications, I'd say the proposed $1800 setup includes a nicer set of wheels (Stan's Iron Cross vs. a pair of generic looking Giant branded wheels). My setup will include 105 drivetrain and an entry-level set of Mavic wheels and will come in at about $1600. I also got custom paint, so it's conceivable that you could trim some more off that and maybe build one of these for $1500. Front and rear through axles is a nifty feature but poses real budget challenges because there aren't any cheap through axle rear wheels that are also compatible with road 11 speed cassettes (I'm going to run 10 speed on mine). The Giant appears to have front through axle but not rear.

    Having said all of that, I will say that I think the price of entry-level carbon bikes from the major brands has come down quite a lot in recent years. Competition from direct-imported generic frames is probably a factor, but also carbon manufacturing has improved a lot, I think.

  77. #477
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    Friends in the bike industry keep telling me they aren't worried about these type of no-name frames. They say the industry won't be phased by such options.
    Then I keep meeting more people thinking of them as an option. More and more.
    Then the industry keeps lowering prices on full bikes like that Giant. I suppose to keep being competitive with someone.

    I suppose the truth of it all is somewhere in between. The industry won't be ruined by these. And it won't be untouched either.

    A new buyer. A novice buyer. Someone who doesn't wonder about each little bit as they lay in bed at night- go buy a ready to go bike. And ride it lots.
    Looking for a project? Something that allows you to hem and haw all the day long? Your wheels? Your cranks? Shimano road levers w/ XTR calipers? Fine- here's an option that'll do it w/o pulling parts off to replace w/ something else.

    To compare a bike laced from the bottom up w/ parts you chose to a bike that's full built and find the price even close to each other is amazing.
    I've known people to order full bikes JUST FOR THE PARTS since they are cheaper than buying bit by bit.
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  78. #478
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    I saw 3 "Chiners" in my last pro/open XC race. 3-4 years ago, that would have been 0.
    Death from Below.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twiggy View Post
    I've gotta admit guys....I've been following this thread for months and was giving serious consideration to one of these frames....But then I realized that for only $1800 Canadian (thats like $20 USD these days, bahaha) I could buy a brand new Giant TCX Advanced Pro 2 off the shelf with a full 105 group (well...with an FSA Crank)... shopping around I've managed to build it up with Sram Force CX-1 for Under $2100...with full warranty. That makes all of the pain of dealing with a Chinese manufacturer seem kinda..... I dunno.... risky?
    The giant is probably my next frameset when I break the current one. (It will happen. I have an unbroken record of breaking bikes.)

    What is the weight like all-in?

  80. #480
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    Jesus-
    How are your frames usually breaking? And are we talking road frames? Or all varieties?
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  81. #481
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    The Miracle keeps instructing me.

    This build has taught me about bottom brakets and converting them.
    I've learned about various axle standards, carbon steerers, and internal route of hydraulic brake lines.

    Today's lesson is on Lizard Skin DSP bar tape.
    It's expensive (even $20 at cost) and fantastic.
    It's like wrapping your bars in tape that's made from mountain grips.
    Great great stuff and I anticipate the durability is also good.
    I went w/ the thick stuff (think it was 3.2mm?) and it's perfect for cross.
    Can't imagine using the thinnest of the 3 for anything, but the middle might make it to my road bike.

    And that's all I know tonight.

    As usual- I hope you aren't reading this because you are riding.

    Oh- speaking of hours and hours on a bike-
    Have you heard about these guys?
    I like long rides but 230 miles a day is hard.
    Even harder if you have to do it again tomorrow. And just insane if you have to average that every single day of the year. So that you can break a record set in 1937!!!
    Miles and miles: what it takes to attempt the year record | CyclingTips
    We are soft, and we are getting softer.
    -JCB
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  82. #482
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    Just received my frame, spotless except for one mark - see below, what you guys think of this?

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-img_3381.jpgChinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-img_3382.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-imageuploadedbytapatalk1432050414.208608.jpg  


  83. #483
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    Is that the drive side chainstay?
    If you're worried about it cosmetically- I'd say it's not an issue.

    But if you're worried about it structurally- well I suppose Id also say it's not an issue!
    Given how large a hole the routing makes, or even a water bottle boss or the holes to route power to an electronic shifting bike, well that teeny thing doesn't seem too bad.

    But other than repairing two carbon frames with kits off Amazon- I have no training in the field of carbon chips.
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  84. #484
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    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle

    Hmm, sent it to miraclebikes to comment.

    I dont care about the cosmetical, but the robustness..

  85. #485
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    Help!!! I have finally got around to building up my frame, and things were working perfectly until I came to the brake and cable routing. I am using mechanical brakes, so I ran the rear brake cable and housing to the down tube, then ran the cable inside the frame. As expected, the hole in the down tube for the cables has a housing stop. As I ran the cable through the tube and out the chain stay towards the rear brakes, I realized that the rear hole in the chain stay where the cable exits DOES NOT have a housing stop. How can I run housing from the rear hole to the brake without a stop? The cable would just run into the frame without stopping. I understand that if you are running full hydraulic brakes that you need holes without cable stops, but shouldn't it be either all housing stops or none?

    Looking online, I purhased some Jagwire alloy housing stops

    Jagwire Alloy Housing Stop > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Cables and Housing | Jenson USA

    but they are way too large to fit into the holes.

    Any help on this please? How did you guys route your brake and cables with this frame?

    Thanks!

  86. #486
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    The down tube hole for the brake cable should not have a housing stop. However, it's right next to the hole for the derailleur cable, which should have a housing stop. Check to see if they were inadvertently switched. They were switched in my frame.

  87. #487
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    Thanks qspencer...turns out you are correct - the down tube hole does not have a stop, but the hole in the frame makes a "stop" when the mount is screwed in, since the frame sticks out a bit from where the mount ends. It stops the housing from going into the down tube but not the cable. Hope that makes sense.

    I may need to drill out the "stop" in the frame to get the housing to fit all the way through. I seem to remember someone in this thread mentioning this problem before

    Even if running mechanical brakes, you run the housing all the way through the frame, from shifter to brake? Sounds easy enough.

    Thanks again for your help

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gluddy View Post
    Even if running mechanical brakes, you run the housing all the way through the frame, from shifter to brake? Sounds easy enough.
    Yes, I've got mechanical brakes, and I ran cable housing all the way. The Shimano 105 group I'm using came with more than enough housing.

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gluddy View Post
    Thanks qspencer...turns out you are correct - the down tube hole does not have a stop, but the hole in the frame makes a "stop" when the mount is screwed in, since the frame sticks out a bit from where the mount ends. It stops the housing from going into the down tube but not the cable. Hope that makes sense.

    I may need to drill out the "stop" in the frame to get the housing to fit all the way through. I seem to remember someone in this thread mentioning this problem before

    Even if running mechanical brakes, you run the housing all the way through the frame, from shifter to brake? Sounds easy enough.

    Thanks again for your help
    That might have been one of my posts, I ran the cable the whole way...there wasn't another choice really because of the cable-in/cable-out inserts. And yes, I had to sand back a little frame material to accommodate the Shimano brake housing. Try to find my posts though because I think there was more detail about the downtube insert that will save you some time.

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    Hydro housing, same size as Shimano fit in mine OK. Think I drilled out the removable cable stop near the headtube on mine though to allow it to slip thru.
    --------- __o
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Hydro housing, same size as Shimano fit in mine OK. Think I drilled out the removable cable stop near the headtube on mine though to allow it to slip thru.
    In case Gluddy doesn't read my older posts you might want to re-phrase that? E.g. you removed the cable stop and drilled back some frame material so that the cable could pass though the stop/frame without hindrance. Just in case he drills the actual cable insert/stop :-))))) Or did you you mean you accessed the excess protruding frame material though the cable insert with the drill?

    Did you actually need a drill JCB? I only had to remove the smallest bit of frame material for it to fit. Or was it because you didn't want to remove the cable stop to remove the frame material that a drill was easier?

    On a separate note, I just pulled the plug on a set of carbon rims from Light Bicycle. Specifically, the tubeless compatible U-shaped 45mm for a rear and 35mm front. Can't wait!

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    It wasn't that long ago but I can't say for certain what I did to the cable stop but am confident I didn't mod the frame in anyway near that area.

    I'm pretty sure the frame stop was set up so that a 5mm brake housing w/ an end ferrule on it would stop, allowing the cable to continue w/o housing.
    The TRP brake housing is about the size of 4mm shift housing so I drilled the removeable housing stop. Or I slightly flared it w/ some poker type thing. That or the hydro hose just went right thru. I dunno for which except that I didn't modify the frame.

    I'm envious of your carbon rims!
    I've loved them on the mountain bikes and think road or cross would be perfect for them. Likely a better fit than on a mountain bike.

    A friend feeds himself by being a wheel builder and keeps seeing mountain rims (Nexte, LB, Enve, Derby) come back for relace due to severe rock damage.
    So his vote is still out on carbon for mountain. Although another wheel builder guy swears by them. So well crap. I'll just shut up.

    The blown up rims are often on Nomad type squishy bikes that are ridden fast in the very rough stuff by competent experienced riders.
    My fingers are crossed that my hardtails won't see the impacts they are. Time will tell but so far- LB rims are amazing in my book.

    -JCB
    --------- __o
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    Running is for prey.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    It wasn't that long ago but I can't say for certain what I did to the cable stop but am confident I didn't mod the frame in anyway near that area.

    I'm pretty sure the frame stop was set up so that a 5mm brake housing w/ an end ferrule on it would stop, allowing the cable to continue w/o housing.
    The TRP brake housing is about the size of 4mm shift housing so I drilled the removeable housing stop. Or I slightly flared it w/ some poker type thing. That or the hydro hose just went right thru. I dunno for which except that I didn't modify the frame.
    Yea, my memory of the job is fading too. But looking at the bike, it's the forward left-side insert that needs to be used for the brake cable on the Ican. Mine didn't come with any inner cable guiding and wasn't an insert that would stop a cable/ferrule (AFAI recall). So I deemed that a full housing should be used, also because there was no guide under the BB for an inner cable on its own. But the cable outer was at such an angle determined by the cable insert entering the frame that the frame wouldn't let the outer pass. As such, some frame material needed to be removed. About 0.25-.50mm at an angle that aided the cable outer to pass. Hope this info helps others.

    Any recent pics JCB? Did you stick with the rattlesnake red?
    Last edited by Racing snake; 05-26-2015 at 02:14 PM.

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    anyone know the recommended torque setting for the expander plug that comes with the headset?

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    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    anyone know the recommended torque setting for the expander plug that comes with the headset?
    With Ican's fork/headset, there wasn't one. I also couldn't get them to recommend a torque. I just fitted it progressively tighter until it was tight enough to hold the top cap securely, prob about 4-5Nm? Don't quote me though, I fitted it six or seven months ago. The bottom race is shot, has been for ages, so I'll test the torque when it's removed.

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    I went with some fiber grip and 5Nm.. seems safe enough..

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    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    I went with some fiber grip and 5Nm.. seems safe enough..
    It should be. What I do remember is that the Nm went from very little to approx. 5nm very quickly, so I didn't push it as it seemed tight enough. Its been fine since.

  98. #498
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    Yep- if it slips. Tighten it a shade more.
    Unless things are all wonky, that top cap won't need any huge amount of purchase to snug things up properly.
    Fiber grip! Now why didn't that occur to me?
    Thanks.

    And the yes- I did stay with the red coral snake motif. Genre. Umm...paint job.
    I also added some vintage Salsa stickers. Looks good but something about the lie of it doesn't sit well in my head.
    So I looked into my own logos. Now too much $$ but more Han I care to spend on a name.

    I'll get a shot sometime.
    We are moving homes so I steal a pedal each day but don't have the usual free time to get fun stuff done!
    --------- __o
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    Running is for prey.

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    regarding the front axle clamping. the side with the release lever, it will push quite hard on the fork surface, have you guys added spacers to protect the carbon surface or just went as is.

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    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-imageuploadedbytapatalk1433078342.412537.jpg

    bit ashamed of the rear brake cable on the outside, but just couldnt be arsed to re-route it internally..will have to do it at some point.

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