Page 4 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast
Results 301 to 400 of 748
  1. #301
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    I just saw the tracking number FINALLY updated. First time since I've clicked it 10,000 times stating March 23rd.
    Some parts are in the US now.
    One more, teeny hurdle, soon to be cleared.

    Fat- I keep seeing all these amazing varieties of duct tape. Every color and style. Even one that is just Mac and Cheese.
    I'm not a fat bike guy (yet) but just might convert over so I can run some of that classy tape and hv it show thru the big relief holes in the rims.
    That or I'll just drill holes in my carbon rims.

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  2. #302
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    I just saw the tracking number FINALLY updated. First time since I've clicked it 10,000 times stating March 23rd.
    Some parts are in the US now.
    One more, teeny hurdle, soon to be cleared.

    Fat- I keep seeing all these amazing varieties of duct tape. Every color and style. Even one that is just Mac and Cheese.
    I'm not a fat bike guy (yet) but just might convert over so I can run some of that classy tape and hv it show thru the big relief holes in the rims.
    That or I'll just drill holes in my carbon rims.

    -JCB
    If you think you enjoy cycling now , try and remember how much you enjoyed it as a kid .
    Well for me that's just what fat biking has done . I'm of an age (and fitness) now where speed isn't the name of the game . It's great to be able to still get up hills that I could as a kid (and more) , but better to go down them with more traction and speed in the corners than I ever could .

    Fat biking certainly makes ya (grin) muscles ache though ha ha ha ha

    Now back to our regular programming . . . . . . .carbon cyclocross


    Fat Biker


    P.S. N+1 bikes

  3. #303
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Fat-
    Are you a Stan's guy? Or have you whipped up some homebrew concoction of glitter and cat litter for your homebrew tubeless?

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  4. #304
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Fat-
    Are you a Stan's guy? Or have you whipped up some homebrew concoction of glitter and cat litter for your homebrew tubeless?

    -JCB
    Was a Stans guy but changed a while back to some unknown brew from a local roadie bike shop.


    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-tubless_brew.jpg


    It's thin but gum's up quite quickly . Better than stans and no boogers either so far .
    I would like to try some proper home brew next though .



    Fat Biker

  5. #305
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297

    Update

    Two things-
    Miracle has been great. Jenny is doing what she can to fix this issue.
    She is asking for solutions from me, and even offering to replace the frame.

    So let me ask you all this.
    Those of you that are familiar w/ my frame's issues- What solution would you work towards?

    Here are the options as I see them.
    -New Frame? I like the idea but will probably be responsible for the shipping back. Let's say that's about oh... A zillion dollars. Probably not an option. I think UPS charges about $90 per pound.
    -Go BB30. Nope- I'm sticking w/ a BSA
    -Praxis style BSA adapter stuffed into the frame? Perhaps, but I don't know much about them. I like that they are removable.
    -Glue in the current BSA adapter properly?
    -Properly glue in a new BSA adapter?

    I think Miracle might balk at paying for a praxis or wheels manufacturing adapter, but I'm leaning towards those as a first choice.

    Anything else I'm missing here? What other options are there?

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  6. #306
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,381
    I do not like BB30 so i only get frames with BSA. Mainly because I have heard way to many stories of creaks and issues with them. I also have heard many stories of adapters moving. But since getting a new frame is out of the question, I would go with the Praxis as they seem to have the least complaints. I personally don't like the idea of fixing it with glue/epoxy because it is so critical to make sure everything is cleaned and properly prepped for the glue/epoxy to adhere properly. Even the big brand carbon frames have problems with glued in fasteners coming loose, my Santa Cruz TRC comes to mind as well as older FSA K Force cranksets.
    2015 Niner Jet 9 Carbon
    2014 Focus Raven 27R
    2017 Lynskey GR250
    2016 Niner BSB
    1987 Haro RS1

  7. #307
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Thanks LJ.
    The idea of removable does appeal to me for reapplying grease (in the combat of creaks) and such.
    There seem to be several screw in variants. I'll research and see what I can learn.
    And, as usual, you'll know more when I do.

    And to be clear- If this was a US sourced frame- the answer would be easy. Here's the old one, where's my new one?
    But, the hurdles I'm jumping over were known at the start.
    If there was going to be a problem, I anticipated it would be a self rescue.
    But even so, MB seems to be stepping up much more than we expected.

    Prospective buyers:
    -I'm the only MB bottom bracket issue I've heard of.
    Don't be lured into that internet logic of "I hear there are issues w/ the BB" when I'm the only issue.

    -MB has been slow but helpful in all problems. The F axle issue has been solved (my correct axle should be here today, along w/ the TA rear drop outs).

    So, in short, I still think my situation is a fluke. Plenty of other MBs rolling around w/o problems.
    If you are on the fence- there is reason to be there but also plenty of reason to buy.
    But- ask me again in week to see if I'm up and running!
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  8. #308
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Hi JCB,

    I would try the new frame route IF: 1). MB could demonstrate a suitable engineering fix to the insert or a molded in BSA. Personally I like BSA as well, and have a Santa Cruz mtn bike with BSA and so far has been flawless. In addition, they are very flexible, reliable, user friendly and economical to change out BB. 2). MB employs their shipping vendor to return your frame at no cost to you (except maybe you packing it up and dropping it off at some hub). As a compromise you might consider getting it unpainted. From a MB perspective this would be the most attractive/economical as they have to pay only for the raw materials - I assume that their overhead is allocated over all production, so nearly free to them. To them a new frame is likely less costly than the praxis solution. 3). you pitch that you will evangelize MB service, support and attention to this issue if they meet your terms

    Best of luck

  9. #309
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Hi JCB
    You make a good point with the single data point, and many others with no issues. Actually, I have placed an order with MB for this frame. From what I see it is an isolated incident, and MB is doing their best to service you as an customer. At this time it is worth the risk - but as you say, ask me in a week or two when I get the frame.
    -SF

  10. #310
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Miracles do happen!
    My TA and F axle are here.
    Two sets of rear drops actually.
    That means I'm sitting on two sets of the QR drop outs.
    Anyone need a set of the QRs?

    I'll keep both TA and one QR for who knows what events.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  11. #311
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    23
    JCB. Good to hear things are working out. As to your BB issue and your question, I would go with one of two options:

    1) If you are willing to spend the money, go with the Praxis. It seems pretty damn solid and easy from what I can tell. Should fix it up with no issues. I would go with this over the new frame because
    -- a) You have an otherwise perfectly good frame
    -- b) It would probably cost you as much or more for the shipping for a new frame
    -- c) You would have to wait longer for that than for the Praxis (most likely)

    2) If you would rather not spend the $90 on the Praxis, I would re-glue in the existing BSA adapter. I say this for me (ymmv) for the following reasons:
    -- a) I have no problem with DIY stuff like this and it usually works out really well for me (I watch youtube vids and do research before any new attempt)
    -- b) From the pictures it looks like the one that is in there is really easy to align properly with matching cutouts. Just do your research about how to prep the surfaces, and use the epoxy someone else mentioned in this thread earlier and you should have a perfect BB.

    Just my 2c on what I would do.

  12. #312
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297

    You all seem like nice people...

    ....and you've been very helpful.
    I don't want to freak you out but I have some news.

    The insanity of the front axle is over.
    Yep. The axle that MB sent weeks ago is now in my hand, well on the bike, and it's PERFECT.
    If the axle is holding back your purchase- that issue is seemingly solved.
    And- the rear drop outs are also installed and PERFECT.

    So there folks.
    That issue is now over.
    May JCB not waste anymore of your time w/ this particular issue.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  13. #313
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    Bit confused here Snake you seem to realise PF86 and BSA are different physically . Then you seem to be saying if JCB pushes the BSA BB sleeve out he'll be left with a 41mm diameter x 86mm wide shell that would be ready to accept a PF86 BB ?

    A BSA shell is either 68mm wide (usually old skool road bike and some MTB's) or 73mm wide (new skool MTB's and some road bikes) (all this excluding 100 mm and 120mm fat bikes shells that utilise BSA threading of course ) . The only thing I can see as being possible here is the shell is a BB30 (be it carbon or alloy but still 68mm wide as per BB30 specs) and they forgot to bond JCB's alloy BSA sleeve in .

    Fat Biker
    Yes, sorry, brain fart. With PF on both my bikes now I've kind of put shell width to the back of my mind because you are not obliged to run the cups with the central sleeve. For example, I've a SM-BB91-41a (XTR) in this Cx frame without the sleeve. Although I think the Ican shell diameter is off ever so slightly (too big). As such the cups fit too easily, and have started a small creak when sprinting hard out of the saddle. I'm going to try a SM-BB91-42A to address this issue. Information on what this BB is for is very hard to find. As its cups only/no central sleeve though I'm not too worried so long as its a secure fit.

    I accept that the BB30 PF would also be a no go for JCB's MB Cx as the shell width is wider then BSA too.

  14. #314
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    55
    Yes, 38's or 50's. Ideally a 50 on the back and a 38 on the front. Something that can be run tubeless AND at high road pressures if required. A rim that will do road and Cx basically, without going tubular. I'm looking at Light Bicycles offerings. A lot of the guys here are using their carbon rims for MTB enduro applications without fault.

  15. #315
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Two things-
    Miracle has been great. Jenny is doing what she can to fix this issue.
    She is asking for solutions from me, and even offering to replace the frame.

    So let me ask you all this.
    Those of you that are familiar w/ my frame's issues- What solution would you work towards?

    Here are the options as I see them.
    -New Frame? I like the idea but will probably be responsible for the shipping back. Let's say that's about oh... A zillion dollars. Probably not an option. I think UPS charges about $90 per pound.
    -Go BB30. Nope- I'm sticking w/ a BSA
    -Praxis style BSA adapter stuffed into the frame? Perhaps, but I don't know much about them. I like that they are removable.
    -Glue in the current BSA adapter properly?
    -Properly glue in a new BSA adapter?

    I think Miracle might balk at paying for a praxis or wheels manufacturing adapter, but I'm leaning towards those as a first choice.

    Anything else I'm missing here? What other options are there?

    -JCB
    My two cents;
    -Accept replacement frame on the basis that they collect yours at their cost.
    -Or Buy a new frame on the basis that they discount it by the amount it costs you to return the faulty one. You'll be out of pocket until they receive it though, and you'd want them to waiver the prospect of it being damaged in transit. Just an idea, but it might be difficult to convey to them.
    -Glue in the current BSA adapter, this would be the quickest solution to get the bike going. I don't see why it wouldn't work if done properly.
    -Use a praxis adapter, if you can't get the glue option to work. I'd still do the glue thing with this though.

    EDIT: oh, i see you've bought a frame now. Good stuff. I hope that you receive it as soon as possible.

  16. #316
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297

    Let's all put our hands together for Jenny at Miracle.

    If any of you are like me, you may have hoped that Miracle would come through and be a good company but you reserved the right to guess that they wouldn't do what was best by me.

    Well- they did right. They did very right.
    Enough so that I would consider using MB again for a purchase.

    I need to put this down loudly and clearly-
    I AM VERY HAPPY WITH HOW MB DEALT W/ THIS PROBLEM.

    After plenty of emails back and forth, Jenny credited my PayPal account enough for a Praxis BB.

    I would have been astounded if they compensated me for shipping back to China.
    In reality- why would they? No US company will pay shipping back to their business either. Many warranties explicitly read that shipping costs are to be covered by the owner.

    In the end, I think I will use a Wheels Manufacturing Eccentric BB30 converter.
    Wheels Mfg - Eccentric Bottom Brackets

    After the credit It'll cost me a bit more but, in the end, I'll have a better chain tensioner system than the YESS unit I'm using.
    I'll still have the option of BB30 or BSA. And I can adjust the BB height.

    All in all- I am happy and pleasantly surprised with the results.
    I'd probably use MB again.
    Even if it's just more experimentation to see just how such low cost carbon options can work out.

    When I have the eccentric BB and the thing is FINALLY finished- I'll write it up and take some photos.

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  17. #317
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Well colour me SHOCKED here JCB.
    I for one never thought you'd get an outcome like this.
    Judging by how some of the Chinese vendors treat their western customers.
    It just goes to show you shouldn't tar everyone with the same brush.

    As you quite rightly say Jenny has stepped up to the plate and deserves credit (pun intended) for this.

    I must admit , even though you were the only one with an issue , I was extremely put off by your experience .

    Now though they are well and truely back in the picture .

    Just my 2˘ here though (not that you asked for it , but when did that ever stop me ? LOL) I would hold off purchasing the Wheels Manufacturing BB adapter just yet , and I would try and bond the original shell back in first . Just to prove it can be done if nothing else . But that's just me



    Fat Biker

    P.S. Congrats

    BTW this does mean we require some fully built up artistic shots her now too.

  18. #318
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Fat-
    You sounds like my best pal.
    MB gives me $90- so I spend it on a new eccentric BB that actually costs more than $90.
    Steevo is like- borrow somebodies green loctite- glue that retarded BSA back in, go ride.
    Put the $90 towards something else.
    Yes- a totally sensible situation. That I ignore.
    A bit like all the sound advice I requested and was given in this thread.
    My sole defense is that I don't like the bar/saddle relation on this frame so the enormous 7mm drop of the new BB should be substantial.
    Yea... right.

    JCB-"What BSA adapter should I use?"
    MTBR-"Praxis"
    JCB-"OK! Thanks. You guys are great. I'm not going to do that."

    But yes- you'll get some shots soon.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  19. #319
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Alternatively sell the frame you have as a BB30 frame. The money you'll lose will be offset by the $90 and you could buy the frame size you really want (with a colour you like this time LOL) ???

    Just a thought


    Fat Biker

  20. #320
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Clever Mr Fat. Clever.
    But no- after consideration of the schematics- the frame is the size I should be on.
    And as for color, well I'm just hard to please. It's too red.
    Too many people said Hey! Nice Bike! during initial ride bys.

    Over lunch I did knock out the BSA sleeve.
    I won't say that a sick kitten just out of chemo could have done it, but it came out easily.
    from the blemishes (or the lack of) on the sleeve, I'd bet there was little or possibly Zero adhesive used.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  21. #321
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dibbs_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,061
    pics please! (whole bike)

  22. #322
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    I'm waiting on the eccentric BB to arrive. After that, I'll post photos.
    I promise I won't pull the usual MTBR "ride report to follow!" and never be heard from again.

    And for what it's worth? I've been on MTBR for years and this thread has been by far the most helpful.
    The community effort at helping to keep me up to date w/ BB standards and other issues has been fantastic.

    So much better than the bashing and anger found elsewhere.
    thanks everyone.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  23. #323
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    I want to agree that this thread has been incredibly helpful. I placed an order for two frames with custom paint 5 weeks ago. I was warned that there would be a wait for custom paint, but I didn't expect it to take quite this long. I sent an email a couple of days ago to ask about the status and finally got a response with a picture of the completed paint on one of the frames. It looks really good and exactly like what I asked for. I asked for BSA bottom bracket, and right now it looks like an empty hole awaiting a threaded BSA sleeve. That's fine with me as long as it works. I'm looking forward to getting the frames.

  24. #324
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Spencer-
    Can you post photos of your frames with their paint?
    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  25. #325
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    I'd love to post a picture, but I don't see a way to do so. It might be because I'm too new on this forum. The forums on bikeforums.net require a certain number of posts before that is enabled for users.

  26. #326
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by qspencer View Post
    I'd love to post a picture, but I don't see a way to do so. It might be because I'm too new on this forum. The forums on bikeforums.net require a certain number of posts before that is enabled for users.
    Yeah I think that's the case here too Spencer.
    So hurry up and post some drivel already to boost th hat post count.

    Rule no. 1 around here never never NEVER tell us you have something new / different without posting pics.

    Rule no. 2 absolutely NEVER tell us you have pics already without posting ! ! !

    This kind of behaviour will have the boys round with a wet lettuce with which to give you a good slapping.


    Fat Biker

  27. #327
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    I think I figured out how to attach the picture. Let's try this and see if it works. Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-286-1.jpg

  28. #328
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    Looks like it worked. This is the 58cm frame. I also ordered the 48 cm frame with the same paint job. I ordered a set of Mavic Crossride wheels and a Shimano 105 group. Thanks to comments earlier on this thread, I'm aware that modern road 11 speed groups may not be compatible with MTB freehubs. After a good deal of research, I concluded that there might be wheel options that combine 11 speed road and 142x12 axle compatibility, but they would have added more cost than I wanted to. If it looks like the cassette won't work with the freehub, my plan B is to remove a cog from the cassette and run it as a 10 speed group.

    I searched the internet for someone who would sell the Shimano road groups without caliper brakes for a good price. Eventually I found what I was looking for (including a good deal on the Mavic wheelsets) at starbike.com in Germany. I think I am benefitting from the current strength of the US dollar against the Euro because the final price when converted to dollars seemed better than anything I had found advertized in the US.

  29. #329
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Really nice rig qspencer. I ordered an unpainted version a few weeks ago in the 56cm size (I'm about 5'10"). I plan to go 1x10 with just a Shimano DuraAce bar end shifter. I'll likely go with a 36T up front and a 11-36T in back. I have this on another gravel grinder type bike and it works very well. I can climb just about anything, and I spin out at about 28mph. For brake levers, I"m going with Cane Creek levers and cross top levers on Salsa Cowbells. These levers work pretty well paired with Avid BB5s i'm running. I bought a pair of BB7 from Bike Discount (germany as well). Great deals. For a wheelset, I'm going with an older pair of Hope/Mavic 217s that I already have. I think I just need to buy new front spacers as the front rim is set up for 20mm axles. I haven't figured out how to post a pic either, but if you want any ideas on the drivetrain or brake set up I can try to snap a few and post them. I plan to set up this new bike nearly identical to the one I have now.

  30. #330
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Why two such similar bikes Suffer?
    And as someone with too many bikes, I'm not judging. Just curious!
    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  31. #331
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    JCB - you scared the hell out of me with that question. I initially thought my wife was disguising herself as JCB,,,, and she was trolling these sites to monitor my bike expenditures.

    My current road bike is a very cheap (ebay -sub $100 frame) orgin8 CX700 Chromoly bike. Nice ride, heavy (~30lbs), lots of attachment points for bags, fenders, has track dropouts for SS option, handles up to 2.2" tires, disc brakes, etc. I have young kids so the attachment points are now used for a child seat and a pack for the kids. I guess I just wanted to get into a race style cx bike for under $1000 that has part-spec redundancies to my mountain bike,,,,and one that does not have a back seat, or attachments to install one.

    So back to the forum - The 1x10 mtn set up has worked out pretty nicely with my current rig so throwing it out for an option here for consideration. It's simple and robust,,, light too if you don't have a 15lb frame to deal with. But I'm guessing most will trick theirs out with a road group for full on CX riding. I think I will have more a comfortable adventure setup for go (almost) anywhere ability. I'd like to get at least 40mm tires on there.

    Heard from Jenny this morning. My frame is done and will ship this week. Roughly a 10day turnaround, very quick. I'll report back when I get the frame, and hopefully by then be able to figure out how to post some pics.

  32. #332
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    19
    Just a quick update on my order from MB. I mentioned in an earlier post that I did not receive my headset with my frame order, but I was just going to let it go because they did include a seatpost clamp, plus I already have a headset that I can use.

    I mentioned it to Jenny at MB, and she went ahead and sent out the headset to me. Just received it today, and it also includes a compression plug instead of a start nut, which is pretty cool. I haven't used a compression plug before, but it seems like better technology than a star nut.

    Another +1 for MB's customer service, and Jenny will be getting my future orders (assuming I get permission to order any more bike stuff from the boss-wife)!

  33. #333
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308
    Hey guys...

    So I have been following through some of these pages and I just want to verify something.

    I want a CX frame that can handle 142x12 rear and 100x15 front so that I can use my mountain bike wheels on it during the winter. I don't like riding a FS bike with expensive shocks during the winter just to commute and stay in shape and I want a CX bike.

    I just can't afford to own a set of expensive wheels for all these different bikes.

    I'd also like it to be PF30 or BB30 because those cranks seem to be cheaper and lighter and I have a truvativ x9 26/39 laying around anyway

    Thanks

    Will

  34. #334
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Will- this frame/fork will fit that bill no problem.
    I've been happy to read that so many of us like the crossover of parts between our bikes.

    My Wheels Manufacturing Eccentric BB showed up yesterday. Does anyone know the difference between mountain and road crank spindles? I can't say the exact dimension, but road is more narrow.
    So- JCBs is waiting for MORE stuff. Dang.
    Wheels is sending me a few small spacers.

    I tell you what guys. At this point if I ordered a presta cap and actually needed schrader- I'd put this project on the hook until fall.
    At nearly every turn, there's a yet another minor hurdle. Arrggg. I think I'll just call it the "Life" bike although actualy using it might indeed be a Miracle.
    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  35. #335
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,381
    Road cranks have a 5mm narrower spindle.
    2015 Niner Jet 9 Carbon
    2014 Focus Raven 27R
    2017 Lynskey GR250
    2016 Niner BSB
    1987 Haro RS1

  36. #336
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    I don't think you actually want to ride this bike JCB LOL

    You just keep looking for problems .

    Measure your BB shell width first . This will be the deciding factor here (should be 68mm as discussed earlier - BB30/BSA )

    If it is 68mm AND you're using a road crank (some MTB cranks are configured to use a 73mm BB shell hence a longer spindle) then you should be good to go .
    If not fit the eccentric BB as per manufacturer instructions and torque specs .
    Next fit the BB bearing cups of your choice , and torque to spec . Now you can measure the TOTAL WIDTH of the BB .
    Next take the crank and fit it together OFF the bike , torque to spec and measure the distance between the arm faces along the spindle .
    Subtract this your previously measured BB width from the distance between the arms .
    You should be left with either 5mm or 7.5mm . If it is slightly more i.e. +1-1.5mm then you may need to include a wavy compression washer .
    If you have 5mm then a 2.5mm spacer on each side .
    If you have 7.5mm then it's 2x2.5mm on one side (should be drive side) and one 2.5mm on the other .
    You may need to experiment with which side you put 2 spacers on to adjust for optimal chainline .

    One point to note is that in my reading I have found that MTB BB cups have a longer threaded section on the drive side to allow for 2x2.5mm spacers plus a BB mounted front derailleur . You may need to run MTB BB cups to allow for the spacers and to have enough length of thread engaged . Be aware though that if you don't need to run the spacers and you're using the MTB cups you could bottom the threads in the Wheels Manufacturing eccentric BB before you reach full torque . Bare in mind that I'm not familiar with the exact architecture of this specific BB so you could be fine . It was just mentioned in the reading during my research when fitting MTB BB cups to road frames . YMMV


    HTH ?



    Fat Biker

  37. #337
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith View Post
    Road cranks have a 5mm narrower spindle.

    This used to be true.
    But now it depends on the manufacturer and crank model .
    Most manufacturers these days are making cranks both road and MTB that cover multiple BB standards .
    There is no hard and fast rule that road cranks are one set width and MTB cranks are another set width .
    Sorry.


    Fat Biker

  38. #338
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    19
    Hey Givmedew,

    Just my 2 cents, but my 29er wheels with 1.95" tires won't fit on my new MB cyclocross frame. The tires are too big, and the frame doesn't have enough clearance on the rear. You would need a smaller tire - not sure what's out there in terms of mtb tires, but there are plenty of cyclocross tires that would fit obviously. I'm not sure how cyclocross tires would work on a mtb wheelset with the rim widths being different, etc. I think MB quoted me as 700 x 35 being the largest tire that could fit on this frame.

    I had a custom wheelset built for my setup, but I won't be switching wheels between my cross and mtb.

  39. #339
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Gluddy and GiveMe-
    I'm using WTB KOM rims (i23).
    WTB says they are great for XC, Trail, and even Enduro.
    W/ a pair of WTB Nano 40c tires- they fit though I'm not looking forward to the first mudfest wearing all the paint, then carbon off the rear stays.
    If you're looking to run your mountain wheels in the winter, this mtn rim and this sort of CX tire work great.

    Fat-
    It's definitely a 68mm BB shell in the frame. And it's definitely made to be BB30 w/o the BSA sleeve inside.
    The WM eccentric slips in perfectly as it's made to fit the 42mm shell of a BB30.
    But- it's made for a road length spindle. In my narrow world, an EBB is made for SS, and SS is best on dirt. I suppose WM could have made this EBB for those CX riders wanting a SS but it sure seems specialized. No way am I the first to use this EBB w/ a mountain crank, but it's the only hiccup w/ it that I know of.

    The WM eccentric can't be spaced. The cups insert into the BB30 bearing area and there's... oh... perhaps 7mm worth of depth to them? Small enough that you wouldn't want to lose what little contact there is between the EBB and the shell.

    The WM EBB isn't threaded for outboard bearings. The bearings are already in place. It's actually very cool and would be even more slick w/ a road crank but there will be none of that (in the spirit of bike continuity) in my home than you very much! My one road bike is used rarely enough that I won't be polluting my parts pool w/ more weirdo road parts. And don't get me started on Quack factor.

    Anyway-
    I'll determine the spacing of this set up and stuff a few spacers in and see where that gets me.

    Woke up to more snow today. Spring likes to taunt Colorado.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  40. #340
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Gluddy and GiveMe-
    I'm using WTB KOM rims (i23).
    WTB says they are great for XC, Trail, and even Enduro.
    W/ a pair of WTB Nano 40c tires- they fit though I'm not looking forward to the first mudfest wearing all the paint, then carbon off the rear stays.
    If you're looking to run your mountain wheels in the winter, this mtn rim and this sort of CX tire work great.

    Fat-
    It's definitely a 68mm BB shell in the frame. And it's definitely made to be BB30 w/o the BSA sleeve inside.
    The WM eccentric slips in perfectly as it's made to fit the 42mm shell of a BB30.
    But- it's made for a road length spindle. In my narrow world, an EBB is made for SS, and SS is best on dirt. I suppose WM could have made this EBB for those CX riders wanting a SS but it sure seems specialized. No way am I the first to use this EBB w/ a mountain crank, but it's the only hiccup w/ it that I know of.

    The WM eccentric can't be spaced. The cups insert into the BB30 bearing area and there's... oh... perhaps 7mm worth of depth to them? Small enough that you wouldn't want to lose what little contact there is between the EBB and the shell.

    The WM EBB isn't threaded for outboard bearings. The bearings are already in place. It's actually very cool and would be even more slick w/ a road crank but there will be none of that (in the spirit of bike continuity) in my home than you very much! My one road bike is used rarely enough that I won't be polluting my parts pool w/ more weirdo road parts. And don't get me started on Quack factor.

    Anyway-
    I'll determine the spacing of this set up and stuff a few spacers in and see where that gets me.

    Woke up to more snow today. Spring likes to taunt Colorado.
    D'oH !

    My bad . Sorry JCB.

    I see now . I even looked at the Wheels Manufacturing web site to look up the BB you have .
    Still didn't notice it's a BB in it's own right NOT a BB adapter.
    That's what 4hrs kip a night does for ya LOL
    And hence why you would be rightly confused as to fitting the spacers betwixt frame and said BB
    I heard a rumor somewhere that if you're in a pickle some plastic pipe of the 24mm internal diameter variety can be custom cut to create your own crank spindle spacers .

    Again apologies for the confusion .
    I shall endeavor to engage brain before flapping my pie hole in future (Though this cannot be guaranteed )




    Fat Biker

  41. #341
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Fat-
    You just settle down there mister.
    Your help has been valuable and uh... helpful.

    Keep the answers coming.
    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  42. #342
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297

    Finished? No- it will never be finished. But, it's close enough.

    Done.
    Well, dang close. WM is sending some spacers for the axle spindle.
    Once I have those, I'll pull the bearing grease guards that I'm running now. And we'll see what's next.

    Of the hurdles and stumbles, I'm pretty happy w/ the white spokes.
    And if you're going to get on me about the spacers- well I won't argue. It's plenty but upright it good by me. 12 hours in the saddle makes me like being up more than caring what's correct.
    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-img_0724.jpg

    The WM eccentric BB really helped clean up the drivetrain but an option other than red would have been nice.
    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-img_0725.jpg

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-img_0731.jpg

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-img_0732.jpg

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-img_0734.jpg

    All in all, it's a very clean and great build.
    I'll likely make a new thread about this build so that new buyers don't have to sift thru 14 pages of my complaining about dropouts and axles.

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  43. #343
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Now doesn't she look fine
    Well worth the hassle don't ya think JCB ?

    Ya ride what fits / makes you comfortable. Screw what anyone else thinks . Hell fit somemore spacers in there if it makes you more comfortable .

    As to your dislike of your colour choice, how about some graphics ? In black and a nice font like your inspiration photo.
    You could call her the "Bone Shaker" no ? LOL

    My personal choice though. I would have fitted a white seatpost. But that's my OCD matching stem and seatpost colour LOL


    Fat Biker

    P.S. Congratulations on a fine looking bike sir

  44. #344
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Fat-
    I'm sitting on Moots stickers and that's what I wanted to put in that white area.
    But now I'm leaning towards a slick set of old Salsa stickers. Back from a mid 90s steel CX bike I still have.
    Making fun of Moots w/ a carbon low cost frame cracks me up but I have almost too much respoect for the Salsa to do it! That bike has taken me many places I shouldn't have taken it!
    Iceland, Great Divide, cross country. Man I love me some Salsa. Don't get me started.
    Wait- too late. If ever I had Spectrum repaint the old beast, I'd want some fresh stickers too!

    When I started the build, I wanted to use old parts. But, as I've said, JCBs wanted his cool stuff so all the old parts didn't make it.
    Old bars, rims, cranks, spokes, stem, levers....
    One of the few bits that did make it was the black post.
    It would look cool in white.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  45. #345
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Yeah the old skool Salsa font is bang on the type of font I was thinking. Not too familiar with the Moots brand other than the defacto ti super brand. Maybe if you did a twist or parody on a Moots name ? Be warned make it obvious though cos the haters will come out in their droves to besmirch you. They don't like it when you use "real" manufacturer names on "cheap Chinese carbon" frames.

    PMSL I can't believe that the ONLY old part that made it was the seatpost. After spending what you have and not buying new.
    Does the church of OCD not "demand" you change it immediately ?
    Ah costs need to be cut somewhere I hear you say. Then to that I say you cannot be a true follower of the chuch.
    As penance I sentence you to a full tubeless conversion with only a hand pump


    Fat Biker

    P.S. I have some ideas regarding names for my own steed? If ever I can get the funds together for long enough before SWMBO gets her hands on it

  46. #346
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Done.
    Well



    All in all, it's a very clean and great build.
    I'll likely make a new thread about this build so that new buyers don't have to sift thru 14 pages of my complaining about dropouts and axles.

    -JCB
    So what bike is that? Link? How much? Is it 142x12 rear?

    I didn't know you could the Chinese bikes with paint


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  47. #347
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    So what bike is that? Link? How much? Is it 142x12 rear?

    I didn't know you could the Chinese bikes with paint


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It's the MC286 from Miracle Bikes. They will do custom paint jobs for an extra $60. I believe this is fairly common, as I've ordered a different frame through Velo Build Mall with custom paint for about the same price as well.

  48. #348
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Whoa there Fat.
    There are also old pedals and a ratty tattered old seat. Easy now.....
    Oh god... That can't be true right? Surely I re-used more than a post, pedals, and seat....

    I feel sick....
    But it's true. And awful.

    burp...
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  49. #349
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Yep.
    Miracle.
    $480 for frame/fork.
    $80 to ship to US.
    $60 for paint. Some paid $50 for paint.

    I added 15 for a headset, 5 for the seat collar, and 23 for the thru axles (that have to be there's. None other fit correctly).
    TA rear (142/12) or QR rear.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  50. #350
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Here's a very sleek version of what I was headed towards.
    Really cool internal cable route.
    SOC15: Open Cycles gets closer to the road with Unbeaten Path gravel bike
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  51. #351
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Yeah, me too (look headed for) but not the - Frame and fork is $2,900 in S, M, L and XL sizes. That is one costly frame. I'm pretty sure you can do a whole build with MB for far less than the cost of this frame/fork. Personally, I like your rig better for a fraction of the price. BTW, what gear ratio are you using on the SS? and are you not using a chain tensioner,, or does the offset BB allow you to snug up the chain by rotation. From the pics it looks like you have BB clocked at 6 o'clock.

  52. #352
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Suffer-
    I'm running a 36/17 on the MBSSCX.
    When it comes to dirt, I know what gearing I like. This is so experimental I don't yet know what will suit the terrain I intend to use it on.

    The chain tension is handled w/ the Wheels Manufacturing eccentric BB.
    Had I known how cool this gadget is (and how well I anticipate it's function) I would have gone w/ the BB30 in the first place to use it.

    I had hoped the BB would be as low as I could get it for a better bar/seat relation.
    So yep, about 6.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  53. #353
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Thanks JCB, I now have slight regrets ordering the BSA version. This piece of kit can add some nice flexibility - like adding track dropout to this frame spec.

  54. #354
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    I'd like to confirm a dimension on the MC website. I'm awaiting my frame delivery and would like to ensure that the items I have will fit. The MB website is in conflict with itself and states in it's specs: Seat Tube: For diameter 31.6mm seat post, but in the outline geometry drawing just below, it states SP 27.2mm I see that in an earlier thread it states 27.2mm. Can anyone confirm that has receive a frame recently. Thx

  55. #355
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Yes- that had me worried too.
    My frame is definitely 27.2
    Delivered in Feb.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  56. #356
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Yes, Jenny already confirmed the specs on the website are incorrect. Her recommendation is that I use the seatpost (31.6mm) on another frame that has a 31.6mm interface. I don't quite understand that logic, but I'll see if I can return it.

  57. #357
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    62
    Thinking of building a bike with this frame + the new SRAM Rival1 groupset. Any reasons why I shouldnt do it? (Getting the BSA threaded BB to work with GXP).

  58. #358
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    Thinking of building a bike with this frame + the new SRAM Rival1 groupset. Any reasons why I shouldnt do it? (Getting the BSA threaded BB to work with GXP).
    And why would you think "Getting the BSA threaded BB to work with GXP" would be a problem ?
    Just buy a GXP BB and fit it. Job done no issues whatsoever. Both are based on the same width shells both use the same thread standards.
    Provided the crank is GXP there should not be a problem.


    Fat Biker

  59. #359
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    62
    that was a stupid way for me to put it.. the "Any reasons why I shouldnt do it" was aimed for the groupset itself.

  60. #360
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    that was a stupid way for me to put it.. the "Any reasons why I shouldnt do it" was aimed for the groupset itself.
    LOL I see now D'oH !

    No, there are no problems that I could see. You do mean the new 1x groupset don't you ?

    Fat Biker

  61. #361
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    As the buyer with seemingly the most headaches using this frame, nope.
    No reasons not to.

    I'm short on actual mileage. Prob still under 200 total miles on the Miracle but it's been great.
    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  62. #362
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    Thinking of building a bike with this frame + the new SRAM Rival1 groupset. Any reasons why I shouldnt do it? (Getting the BSA threaded BB to work with GXP).
    w0lla I'm expecting to receive a BSA version if this frame this week and plan on a GPX BB and a sram road crank that I have laying around. I'll let you know if any issues, but like the fat biker said, should be seamless as all interfaces are standard. The rest of the group should be fine. you might want to look into the cassette and rear hub for fitment tho. Not 100% sure if road and mtn cassettes are interchangeable spacing-wise. Most on this thread will know. Just a watch out if you have mtn wheels and get that group.

  63. #363
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    62
    Gonna see if I can get the cx1 cheaper now that "2016" was announced. Thinking to build wheels on the dt350 hubs (maybe grail rim) with either a 11speed freehub or the XD from sram depend on what set I will go with.

    Suffer fest how are you building the bike?

  64. #364
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    Gonna see if I can get the cx1 cheaper now that "2016" was announced. Thinking to build wheels on the dt350 hubs (maybe grail rim) with either a 11speed freehub or the XD from sram depend on what set I will go with.

    Suffer fest how are you building the bike?
    Mostly from spare mtn bike parts. Drivetrain will be a 1x10 DuraAce bar end shifter to XT rear der., and 42T to 11-36T. Hope hubs with mavic 29er hoops. BB7 brakes and cane creeh levers and topcross levers. Salsa cowbell bars. Pretty simple. Hoping for a sub-20lb, sub-$1000 utility machine.

    In what i have learned from this thread I ordered the headset, both axles and seat post from MB. If you plan to order go through this thread. It's actually more accurate than the MB site.

  65. #365
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    Gonna see if I can get the cx1 cheaper now that "2016" was announced. Thinking to build wheels on the dt350 hubs (maybe grail rim) with either a 11speed freehub or the XD from sram depend on what set I will go with.

    Suffer fest how are you building the bike?
    Oh BTW, both Starbike and Bike Discount in Germany have some nice prices on components and tires. It's about 20 bucks to ship, but with the weak euro vs $ it's considerable savings

  66. #366
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    As a long time LBS worker etc (now not in the bikes world) I hate to say it but-
    If you want low USA pricing, ChainReaction is astoundingly cheap on some items.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  67. #367
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle

    Quote Originally Posted by SufferFest View Post
    Mostly from spare mtn bike parts. Drivetrain will be a 1x10 DuraAce bar end shifter to XT rear der., and 42T to 11-36T. Hope hubs with mavic 29er hoops. BB7 brakes and cane creeh levers and topcross levers. Salsa cowbell bars. Pretty simple. Hoping for a sub-20lb, sub-$1000 utility machine.

    In what i have learned from this thread I ordered the headset, both axles and seat post from MB. If you plan to order go through this thread. It's actually more accurate than the MB site.
    Is it a 9 speed derailleur? 10 speed def won't work.

    That said you shouldn't be running a long cage either. Most 9 speed XT derailleurs are long cage. It will work but no reason to do it chain will be slapping the crap out of your chain stay and you have a greater chance of the chain coming off in the lowest gear even if running a narrow wide). Just sell it on eBay and buy the correct parts for a few dollars more.

    Also just thinking but honestly if you have top levers you might as well as just use trigger shifters. A medium cage clutch derailleur would be ideal. Shimano works with 10 speed shimano or 9 speed SRAM and then there is the 10 speed SRAM. The shimano has much less chain movement and allows you to run 9 (SRAM) or 10 speed. The SRAM has the easiest rear wheel removal in the world. Also the easiest to change a chain using the wheel removal lock to remove chain tension.

    Anyways give it a thought. I bought my zee (stiffer than XTR but less than saint and weighs less than saint) with a $60 one up medium cage (designed to work better with 11-42 cassette) for $60 +$10 shipping used. Sold my old 9 speed derailleur for $40.

    I'm going to use a small or medium cage SRAM Rival derailleur with 10 speed campy levers and top levers. The campys will pull hope cable to hydro brakes until hydro drop levers become affordable.
    Last edited by Givmedew; 04-25-2015 at 11:34 PM.

  68. #368
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    Choosing a rear hub and gearing is definitely a unique challenge with this frame. The frame bridges the road and MTB worlds at a time when the components from those two worlds are increasingly moving away from cross compatibility. When I ordered my frame, I just assumed I would order a road bike group and a pair of MTB wheels, without realizing that road 11 speed cassettes would not fit on MTB freehubs. The solution I settled on was using an 11 speed road group as 10 speed. I got the new Shimano 105 11 speed group with 11-32 cassette, and converted it to a 12-32 10 speed cassette by buying a 12t first and 13t second cog. I don't think I'll miss the 11 tooth cog anyway. I got the 105 group, Mavic Crossride wheelset, and some other parts I'll need for a great price from Starbike.com, the German shop mentioned earlier in this thread. I already got all of the parts and am just waiting on the frame.

  69. #369
    bike tester
    Reputation: syl3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    1,170
    Dont Mavic freehubs take 11 speed anyway? I remember they took an extra spacer for 10 speed some years ago.

  70. #370
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    Dont Mavic freehubs take 11 speed anyway? I remember they took an extra spacer for 10 speed some years ago.
    I don't own any other recent Mavic hubs, but I had heard this and hoped it would be true of the wheelset I bought. Having tried to install an 11 speed road cassette on this particular hub, I can say that it definitely won't work. The Crossride, Crossmax and Crossroc wheelsets all use the same hub, which includes a so-called TS2 (Transfer System 2) freehub. It looks like it's meant to be an MTB specific design that appears likely not interchangeable with Mavic road freehub bodies.

  71. #371
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    These new imcompatible standards are killing me and biking.
    It's not like I'm going to stop anytime soon, but it's certainly slowed down my desire for new bits/bikes that are only work within their little worlds.
    And don't get me started on the Fat Bike world/phenomenom!

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  72. #372
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    Is it a 9 speed derailleur? 10 speed def won't work.

    That said you shouldn't be running a long cage either. Most 9 speed XT derailleurs are long cage. It will work but no reason to do it chain will be slapping the crap out of your chain stay and you have a greater chance of the chain coming off in the lowest gear even if running a narrow wide). Just sell it on eBay and buy the correct parts for a few dollars more.

    Also just thinking but honestly if you have top levers you might as well as just use trigger shifters. A medium cage clutch derailleur would be ideal. Shimano works with 10 speed shimano or 9 speed SRAM and then there is the 10 speed SRAM. The shimano has much less chain movement and allows you to run 9 (SRAM) or 10 speed. The SRAM has the easiest rear wheel removal in the world. Also the easiest to change a chain using the wheel removal lock to remove chain tension.

    Anyways give it a thought. I bought my zee (stiffer than XTR but less than saint and weighs less than saint) with a $60 one up medium cage (designed to work better with 11-42 cassette) for $60 +$10 shipping used. Sold my old 9 speed derailleur for $40.

    I'm going to use a small or medium cage SRAM Rival derailleur with 10 speed campy levers and top levers. The campys will pull hope cable to hydro brakes until hydro drop levers become affordable.
    So is the index ratio of the 10 speed derailleur not compatible with the cassette spacing? I can't see how the derailleur would matter. It's a slave indexed by the master (shifter). Interested to learn about this. I guess I can run it in friction mode vs index mode

  73. #373
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle

    Quote Originally Posted by SufferFest View Post
    So is the index ratio of the 10 speed derailleur not compatible with the cassette spacing? I can't see how the derailleur would matter. It's a slave indexed by the master (shifter). Interested to learn about this. I guess I can run it in friction mode vs index mode
    The cable pull length on dynasys is different than the cable pull on SIS/Mega9/Non dura ace 8/9 any Shimano 10.

    I am fairly sure that any SIS/Mega9 derailleur is compatible with any 10 speed road system. I am absolutely certain that dynasys is only compatible with dynasys labeled shifters AND it is compatible with 9 speed MTB SRAM shifters and 9 speed SRAM or Shimano cassettes. I'm not sure if SRAM ROAD 9 is the same as SRAM MTB 9 though. Meaning I don't know if you can use SRAM road brifters with a dynasys derailleur.

    I do know you can run SRAM 10 speed road derailleurs with campagnolo 10 speed road shifters! This setup is the bees knees in cyclecross. The shift and brake cables are hidden in the drop bars or under the tape so nothing to get caught on! They can up and down shift 1, 2, 3, or 4 gears at once! They have separate upshift and downshift parts. Downshift (bigger cog) where the break lever is just like Shimano or SRAM. Upshift with a little tab on the body near the top of the hoods.

    No cables to snag.

    Bar end shifters in the bottom of the drops are awesome for your long distance loaded up touring bike with drop bars. They suck for use under pressure. You can not shift while maintaining control of the bike.

    Either do the SRAM/Campy setup that I have OR buy a dynasys clutch derailleur and use 10 speed Shimano trigger shifters or use 9 speed SRAM shifters on the tops near the top brakes.

    I'll try to help you with any other drivetrain questions. No know most of but not all combos. I have most derailleur and shifters types at home to test different setups.

    I have several 8, 9 and 10 speed derailleurs and shifters from SRAM and Shimano. Also like I said I have the campy levers. I also have some modifier pullies. For example you can run 10 speed campy on 9 speed Shimano derailleur with 9 speed cassette using a modifier pulley. They don't make them anymore because the guy died his son took over and then tanked the business.

    Pictures are my zee derailleur with aftermarket cage for better 11-42 cassette usage w/ a PG-990 SRAM 9 speed cassette and a X9 9 speed shifter!

    I will switch it back to 10 speed once my new shifter arrives in the mail. But for now I know that the 2 are compatible.

    Last 2 pictures are the campy levers! I love them. Only pictures I had in my phone of them I can take better ones later.

    Silver bike is a Niner Rip 9 and the yellow is a USA Cannondale CAAD3 SR-1000 which is a bike that has a 15mm shock built into the steerer if a carbon fiber fork. 19LBs with SRAM Rival Groupset Mavic Ksyrium wheels and those campy brifters.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  74. #374
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Givmedew Thanks for the offer. As has been said many times in this thread, this frame is melding the mtn and road world with the complication of mfgers changing operational specs. I'm trying to use as much asaid stuff that I have on hand, which is mostly mtn stuff. XT rear der (med cage) with clutch (m786) and a shimano xt 11-30th cassette. I bought the DuraAce brifters to tie it all together, but thats not looking to promising based on your comments. I'd just go with the 9 speed XT rear derailleur(I have one), but I think there's interference with the largest cog on the cassette (36t). Have you run one of these 9 speed derailleur with a wide range cassette

    I'm planning to keep the brifters. This is not intended to be a cross bike but more of a adventure bike - long hauls, 90:10 road dirt

  75. #375
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308
    Quote Originally Posted by SufferFest View Post
    Givmedew Thanks for the offer. As has been said many times in this thread, this frame is melding the mtn and road world with the complication of mfgers changing operational specs. I'm trying to use as much asaid stuff that I have on hand, which is mostly mtn stuff. XT rear der (med cage) with clutch (m786) and a shimano xt 11-30th cassette. I bought the DuraAce brifters to tie it all together, but thats not looking to promising based on your comments. I'd just go with the 9 speed XT rear derailleur(I have one), but I think there's interference with the largest cog on the cassette (36t). Have you run one of these 9 speed derailleur with a wide range cassette

    I'm planning to keep the brifters. This is not intended to be a cross bike but more of a adventure bike - long hauls, 90:10 road dirt
    You got to do brifters I thought you had said you where going to do bar end shifters like these things

    Maybe I misunderstood. I was just saying that triggers would be better than bar end.

    I'm kind of surprised the mid cage mega 9 has issues with a 36t when it's designed to run a 34t.

    When I get home I can toss a 36 cassette on my bad boy ultra and shift all the way to the large cog. It lines up with the largest cog in the 9 speed cassette.

    You might need to replace the b screw.

    You def want a medium cage.

    Also for the left brifter you need to put a cable through the shifter and then secure it in a way that you can put tension on it without pulling it out. Those brass cable stops with 2 set screws will work. Once you do that just shift it till it's super tight. This will make the shift lever firm instead of floppy.

    Yeh it does suck that the dynasys doesn't work with road but the cable pull ratio are different because one serves road better and the other serves a clutch mech and mud better.

    SHIMANO needs to wise up and offer a cross specific derailleur that works with road shifters! SRAM DOES TOO!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  76. #376
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    23
    I just took the plunge and ordered this frame, along with axles, seatpost, clamp, headset, etc.

    As for groupset/wheels, it can be rough getting an 11 speed cassette on a good strong wheel. I am building my own, taking my bontrager mustang OSB, TLR rims (which I love, such amazing rims) and building them with some novatec 771/772 hubs I recently picked up (along with some pillar triple butted spokes).

    As for the shifting, I have 105 11 speed brifters with ultegra front and XT 10 speed rear derailleurs. I had to modify the XT for the 11 speed cable pull length, so its not something readily available, but the clutch derailleur is pretty awesome for this application.

    I currently have this shifting set up on a 10 speed cross (frankenbike) I have been using for this purpose while deciding which carbon frame to get, and it works great. (I designed adjustability into the cable lever length so matching up to my 11 speed cassette with slightly reduced cog pitch should be no problem.)

    For the masses, I would suggest either buying some proper MTB thru axle hubs that can take an 11 speed (of which there are several) and building the wheels yourself, or just go with a 10 speed set up. 10s MTB cassette match up perfectly fine with 10s shimano brifters. It's not like 10 speed is bad...

    On the other hand, companies are starting to build wheels for 11 speed cross application, so they do exist, they just aren't generally cheap. The best bang for the buck I saw when designing the build were from light-bicycle at < $600 for nice carbon wheels, beadless and tubeless ready with the same hubs I have. (Which I am still considering, though I want to try my mustang's first.)

  77. #377
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Wahooo!!!! Another buyer waiting for his new frame!
    Did you go w/ any custom paint?
    Please post a photo or 3 once it arrives and after it's built.

    I can't overstate how surprised and happy I am with the BikeHubStore mtn hubs on the MB frame.
    They offer a pretty wide spread of axle variants and, w/ proper cassette spacers, can be about any spacing you'd like.
    QR, TA, and so on.
    And mine are (although getting louder) working great.

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  78. #378
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by SufferFest View Post
    Givmedew Thanks for the offer. As has been said many times in this thread, this frame is melding the mtn and road world with the complication of mfgers changing operational specs. I'm trying to use as much asaid stuff that I have on hand, which is mostly mtn stuff. XT rear der (med cage) with clutch (m786) and a shimano xt 11-30th cassette. I bought the DuraAce brifters to tie it all together, but thats not looking to promising based on your comments. I'd just go with the 9 speed XT rear derailleur(I have one), but I think there's interference with the largest cog on the cassette (36t). Have you run one of these 9 speed derailleur with a wide range cassette

    I'm planning to keep the brifters. This is not intended to be a cross bike but more of a adventure bike - long hauls, 90:10 road dirt
    Assuming the DuraAce are 10s, I would recommend getting a shimano rear derailleur (unless you feel comfortable modifying the pull length on the 10s XT). A 5700 or 5800 (both will work) rear mech will run about $35 delivered. Its a small investment for a perfect solution, and should be all you need to fill out the set.

    Edit: I just noticed you said 36t. I take it back. A 105GS MIGHT work, and a 9sp XT might work (It should clear the cog, but I think the lever is slightly off). I've seen mixed reports on the 9sp working with 10sp shimano brifters.

    Personally, I say go for the 9sp XT (again, unless you want to modify the 10sp). It might take a bit to dial in, but I think it has a better chance of working vs. pita factor than the other options.

  79. #379
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Wahooo!!!! Another buyer waiting for his new frame!
    Did you go w/ any custom paint?
    Please post a photo or 3 once it arrives and after it's built.

    I can't overstate how surprised and happy I am with the BikeHubStore mtn hubs on the MB frame.
    They offer a pretty wide spread of axle variants and, w/ proper cassette spacers, can be about any spacing you'd like.
    QR, TA, and so on.
    And mine are (although getting louder) working great.

    -JCB
    I got the plain UD matte. I will be painting it a little bit, some stencils I made (probably in white) and maybe? a few semi-gloss (satin) or even gloss coats. over the whole thing, or maybe just some matte coats over the stenciled areas. I am not sure yet. I like the color of the carbon though and would like to preserve it.

  80. #380
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by Slyver View Post
    On the other hand, companies are starting to build wheels for 11 speed cross application, so they do exist, they just aren't generally cheap.
    That was what I noticed. The whole concept of a cross bike with 142x12 through axle hubs is starting to catch on with some mainstream manufacturers, but it's starting at the high end of the market. Same with Shimano 11 speed MTB. With the right derailleur cage, my 11 speed road setup would probably work with an 11 speed MTB cassette, which will work on my 10 speed hub, but right now it's only available at the XTR price level, and that 11th speed just wasn't worth that much extra money to me. Maybe in a year or two there will be better options.

  81. #381
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    I think it's June/July for the XT 11s blocks according to Bike Rumor

    "Availability for all the new XT components is generally June, with a few items expected a month or so later like the bigger 11-42 cassette, the single and triple ring cranks, and the Trail wheelsets. No word on pricing yet, but Shimano is having a launch event tonight in Monterey leading in to Sea Otter, and we’ll see what else we can find out."

    From this article

    http://www.bikerumor.com

    Hopefully considerably cheaper than XTR and maybe some components can be made to work with other groups/manufacturers ?


    Fat Biker

  82. #382
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308
    Quote Originally Posted by Slyver View Post
    Assuming the DuraAce are 10s, I would recommend getting a shimano rear derailleur (unless you feel comfortable modifying the pull length on the 10s XT). A 5700 or 5800 (both will work) rear mech will run about $35 delivered. Its a small investment for a perfect solution, and should be all you need to fill out the set.

    Edit: I just noticed you said 36t. I take it back. A 105GS MIGHT work, and a 9sp XT might work (It should clear the cog, but I think the lever is slightly off). I've seen mixed reports on the 9sp working with 10sp shimano brifters.

    Personally, I say go for the 9sp XT (again, unless you want to modify the 10sp). It might take a bit to dial in, but I think it has a better chance of working vs. pita factor than the other options.
    9 speed MTB derailleurs do not need modification unless you feel like replacing the bottom tension pulley (a little thinner)

    SRAM 10 Speed MTB is compatible with Campy 10 speed and SRAM 10 speed road shifters.

    SRAM 10 speed road derailleur is compatible with campy 10 speed shifter.

    I use campy shifters on my SRAM stuff. The cables are hidden so nothing to snag on and they can shift up or down 4 gears at once. Campy shifters are also cheap and durable!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  83. #383
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    62
    does the frame finish (matte, glossy) matter for how the paint coating will be?

  84. #384
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308
    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    does the frame finish (matte, glossy) matter for how the paint coating will be?
    No unless there is a way to get them to do a partial paint job that leaves some carbon showing through and even then probably no because If you order a painted bike I doubt they are finishing it with a glossy finish and then painting is again to finish it with a glossy finish.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  85. #385
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by w0lla View Post
    does the frame finish (matte, glossy) matter for how the paint coating will be?
    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    No unless there is a way to get them to do a partial paint job that leaves some carbon showing through and even then probably no because If you order a painted bike I doubt they are finishing it with a glossy finish and then painting is again to finish it with a glossy finish.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If you mean a mixture of carbon, matt and glossy I would say it is entirely possible. I believe n1x0n's frame back in post #114 was originally UD matt.

    Name:  DSC_0054-01.jpg
Views: 861
Size:  23.1 KBChinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-dsc_0053-01.jpg


    Even if it is actually matt black and not bare UD I still think they could do what you're asking.

    Hope n1x0n doesn't mind me reprinting his photos ?


    Fat Biker

  86. #386
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    62
    Ah I see, thanks. Want to do "glossy" aqua. Similar color to what yeti/santa cruz uses.

  87. #387
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    You got to do brifters I thought you had said you where going to do bar end shifters like these things

    Maybe I misunderstood. I was just saying that triggers would be better than bar end.

    I'm kind of surprised the mid cage mega 9 has issues with a 36t when it's designed to run a 34t.

    When I get home I can toss a 36 cassette on my bad boy ultra and shift all the way to the large cog. It lines up with the largest cog in the 9 speed cassette.

    You might need to replace the b screw.

    You def want a medium cage.

    Also for the left brifter you need to put a cable through the shifter and then secure it in a way that you can put tension on it without pulling it out. Those brass cable stops with 2 set screws will work. Once you do that just shift it till it's super tight. This will make the shift lever firm instead of floppy.

    Yeh it does suck that the dynasys doesn't work with road but the cable pull ratio are different because one serves road better and the other serves a clutch mech and mud better.

    SHIMANO needs to wise up and offer a cross specific derailleur that works with road shifters! SRAM DOES TOO!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Givemedew - yes barends not brifters, sorry. I don't know these road terms and thought brifters was short for bar shifters, but brake/shifters makes more sense.

    I found this article with a table of all shifter cable pulls, derailleur actuation and cog spacing. With this bike bridging road and mountain, maybe it will help if anyone is trying to mix application and manufacturers.

    Art's Cyclery Blog » Science Behind the Magic | Drivetrain Compatibility

    I guess I'd like to find a medium cage rear derailleur with a 1.7 shift ratio and a clutch for 1x10. Thanks to all for pointing this out.

  88. #388
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by Slyver View Post
    I just took the plunge and ordered this frame, along with axles, seatpost, clamp, headset, etc.

    As for groupset/wheels, it can be rough getting an 11 speed cassette on a good strong wheel. I am building my own, taking my bontrager mustang OSB, TLR rims (which I love, such amazing rims) and building them with some novatec 771/772 hubs I recently picked up (along with some pillar triple butted spokes).

    As for the shifting, I have 105 11 speed brifters with ultegra front and XT 10 speed rear derailleurs. I had to modify the XT for the 11 speed cable pull length, so its not something readily available, but the clutch derailleur is pretty awesome for this application.

    I currently have this shifting set up on a 10 speed cross (frankenbike) I have been using for this purpose while deciding which carbon frame to get, and it works great. (I designed adjustability into the cable lever length so matching up to my 11 speed cassette with slightly reduced cog pitch should be no problem.)

    For the masses, I would suggest either buying some proper MTB thru axle hubs that can take an 11 speed (of which there are several) and building the wheels yourself, or just go with a 10 speed set up. 10s MTB cassette match up perfectly fine with 10s shimano brifters. It's not like 10 speed is bad...

    On the other hand, companies are starting to build wheels for 11 speed cross application, so they do exist, they just aren't generally cheap. The best bang for the buck I saw when designing the build were from light-bicycle at < $600 for nice carbon wheels, beadless and tubeless ready with the same hubs I have. (Which I am still considering, though I want to try my mustang's first.)
    Can you provide any pics or details on the 10sp XT mods to convert from dynasys to standard 1.7 shift ratio? Did you mount the cable attachment at a different point on the cable attachment lever, and use a barrel adjuster to account for adjustment?? I would really like to utilize the clutched derailleur thats only available on the 10sp.

  89. #389
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle

    Edit the heck out this

    So yes 10 speed SRAM mountain clutch derailleurs do indeed work with SRAM road shifters and campagnolo 10 speed road shifters.
    Last edited by Givmedew; 04-27-2015 at 03:07 PM.

  90. #390
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    8,099
    Quote Originally Posted by Givmedew View Post
    Edit the heck out this

    So yes 10 speed SRAM mountain clutch derailleurs do indeed work with SRAM road shifters and campagnolo 10 speed road shifters.
    Yeah, I'm running an X-7 T2 with Rival 10s.
    Death from Below.

  91. #391
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    308

    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle

    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Yeah, I'm running an X-7 T2 with Rival 10s.
    Just be careful with SRAM brifters not sure if the Reds suffer from this but most break easily and there are not the necessary parts to repair.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/view...004&t=12920479

    Just use google there are tons of threads like that. People having it break then sending for a replacement then having the other side break a bit later.

    Seams like reds last longer but still break sometimes. I have no issues with the campagnolo veloce levers and I'm quite hard on them.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  92. #392
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    62
    alright,

    Ordered the Frame, Axles, headset, seatpost+clamp. UD Matte.
    Wheelset will be: DT350 hubs with ZTR grail rims. 32H.
    For groupset, still deciding. Instead of Force CX1 setup I can go full Rival 22 Hydraulic and save some $$. Or shimano 105 with TRP Spyre SLC.

    Additional stuff to buy:
    1. Tires (38mm) - maybe Bontrager CX1
    2. Stem (90/100mm)
    3. Handlebar (width dont know yet)


    Thought this would be a cheap project for me, then it all escalated quickly.... I'll post pics once I get everything sorted out.

  93. #393
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    41
    Received my frame yesterday (56cm, BSA) Ordered with seat post/clamp, axles, bottle cages and headset. To give an idea of timing I ordered on April 7th, the product shipped on April 22 and was attempted to be delivered on the 26th, but had to pick up at USPS yesterday the 27th. Everything was received in good order and packaging looked good with all contents well protected.

    The post, axles and headset all seems to be of good quality for the price ($32, $27, $15 respectively). Bottle cages were $9 each. Also ft axle fit looks well designed and a little different from earlier posts. Let me know if anyone needs any more pics. Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-imag0109%5B1%5D.jpgChinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-imag0110%5B1%5D.jpg

    As far as the frame is concerned, it looked of good quality, fit and finish. My comparison is a top brand carbon FS mountain bike. In physical appearance, it is not obvious that one is of higher quality or finish than the other. This said, the MB bike exceeded my expectation for it's $. Who knows, they may have been the OEM for my mtn bike??

    I'll be building things up in the next couple of days. Let me know if you have any questions. Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-imag0112%5B1%5D.jpg

  94. #394
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    2,087
    Let me get this straight, a SRAM 10spd clutch derailluer works with 10 spd Campy shifters? My Record 10 rear derailluer barely works with an 11-28 cassette( thought they could go up to a 29t) I was hoping for a little more low end range.

  95. #395
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    8,099
    Quote Originally Posted by Hurricane Jeff View Post
    Let me get this straight, a SRAM 10spd clutch derailluer works with 10 spd Campy shifters? My Record 10 rear derailluer barely works with an 11-28 cassette( thought they could go up to a 29t) I was hoping for a little more low end range.
    I'm a bit skeptical as well.

    Campy 10s didn't work very well with Shimano/SRAM cassettes. Like, at all. I'm having a hard time imagining a Campy RD matched with a SRAM shifter and anything nice resulting.
    Death from Below.

  96. #396
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Suffer-
    Your axle looks alot like the variant some of us received that didn't work correctly.
    The axle istself was a hair too long, and the "nut" didn't seat inside the collar of the fork.
    I'm only judging by the end nut, it's similar to the one they sent that didn't work.

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  97. #397
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    62
    JCB, could you post what the working axles you received looks like

  98. #398
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297

    New vs Old

    The top axle is the wrong one.
    The shorter/correct version is below.
    Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle-image.jpg

    Now that I'm looking at it- I think I may have spoken without cause. A common MTBR affliction.

    In your shot, the axle end nut looked just like I remembered the one that was wrong.
    And- I was wrong- they aren't even close!
    You're probably fine.
    Sorry to spook you!

    -JCB
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  99. #399
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    28
    My frames should be arriving this week. I ordered the through axles, but didn't think to order seatpost collar or headset, partly because I bought a road frame last year from China via velobuildmall.com, and they included them for free. I'm not going to want to wait for shipping from China for the parts I'm missing, so I'll probably try to find a closer source. Is it a fairly standard headset?

  100. #400
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,297
    Spencer-
    I'm no inset headset tapered type encyclopedia but-
    Yep. It is a standard headset.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

Page 4 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-12-2012, 06:11 AM
  2. Chinese 29er with 12mm x 142mm axle?
    By jpedders in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-19-2011, 10:07 AM
  3. PAID SPAM : Chinese Carbon Cyclocross/Touring frame
    By DeeEight in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-03-2011, 10:11 AM

Members who have read this thread: 51

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •