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  1. #1
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    Build it or buy it? Input welcome.

    Buy It = Specialized Tricross Sport Disc


    $1300 OTD.

    Pros: Looks cool. Get on it and ride.
    Cons: Sora components (new gen is pretty nice). Aluminum fork.

    Build It

    Frameset = Motobecane Fantom Crosss aluminum frame + carbon fork from Bike Island = $320
    Groupset = Tiagra 4600 2x10 group (FSA crank) = $310 (I have some parts already)
    Brakes = Avid BB5, 160mm front + 140mm rear = $90
    Wheelset = Vuelta cross wheels = $220 (combined shipping with Frameset)
    Saddle + Seatpost = $100 (Phenom Saddle + Thomson post)
    Tires/Tubes/Cables = $150 (not sure yet on these)

    Total = $1190

    Pros: Cheaper. Nicer parts. Carbon fork.
    Cons: It'll take time to build it

    I'd be sold on the Specialized if it didn't have an aluminum fork. I had one on an old road bike and did not like it. This bike will see light trail duty on the weekends and some commute miles during the week.

    Bob

  2. #2
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    The Motobecane has a 130 rear spacing, which limits the supply of good hubs if you wish to upgrade. Not sure about the Tricross rear spacing. Just something to consider.

  3. #3
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    Is buying the complete bike Motobecane for $999.00 an option? And then adding parts if you need to?

    Just asking.

  4. #4
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    F bikes direct. about 30% of those frames that come into my shop have factory defects. Like bent dropouts, uneven lawyer lips (cause wheel to sit crooked), bent brake mounts that render the frame useless.... Buy it if you have the willingness to send it back if its not what you expected.

    There is a reason they are so cheap.
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  5. #5
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    Agree with sheepo!! I deal with the same thing in my shop, I have built a few and I sorta feel bad charging people to build them because of the poor quality. But you might get lucky.

  6. #6
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    I don't like FSA cranks. Friend of mine took the left crank arm off mine while my bike was on loan to her. I think their design isn't as good as Shimano's for two-piece cranks, and I think Shimano has chainrings pretty dialed. The design of the Sora crank is the same as all the others, although I don't know if their chainring awesomeness goes down to that component level.

    I'm not a huge fan of BB5 brakes. I had them on my mountain bike. While functional, if you're buying parts a la carte anyway, consider BB7s.

    Actually, here's something else to consider.
    Nashbar X Aluminum Cyclocross Frame - Road Bike Frames

    A few posters on the commuting forum have them and like them. Not sure how much the fork costs.

    As far as the issue of the rear dropout spacing - after I killed the rim for a stupid wheel on the back of my Portland, which has 130 mm spacing, I talked it over with my mechanic and built a wheel on a 135 mm Deore hub. It's a little more challenging to get it in there than in a bike with the correct spacing, but everything works fine. Ask me about structural problems in five years or so, but since I didn't need to bend the metal far enough to hit yield, I'm not terribly concerned.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  7. #7
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    The Motobecane Fantom Cross frame is built pretty beefy and is not lightweight (good if you are a heavy 200 lb plus rider) also the carbon fork is heavy with the aluminum steer tube. I wouldn't be surprised if it rode as stiff as aluminum. With cross tires, I doubt you would notice the slight variations of steel, aluminum, or carbon, forks like you would with a road fork and 100psi 23c tires.

    Higher-end aluminum Cyclocross frames are very light with thinner wall alum tubing (and can dent if crashed). Some of the best are made by Alan ( Stellina Sport » Home ): Xtreme DCS cross (aluminum front, rear full carbon); Xtreme CS (aluminum front, carbon seat stay); Xtreme (all aluminum); Roland 5 (aluminum front, rear full carbon); Klaus Peter 2 (aluminum front, carbon seat stay).

    I like the Lemond Poprad with disc brakes - it is a fairly light (True Temper Platinum OX) steel frame that is extremely well built (in the USA) but unfortunately now discontinued by Trek. They show up on eBay and Craigslist sometimes but can be expensive (about $400 for the frame); but worth it.

    If you really want lightweight than it will be carbon fiber. The going rate for a Chinese carbon frame and fork is $550: You may like the On-One Dirty Disco: On One Dirty Disco Carbon Cyclocross Frameset

    If you build it up - look for Avid BB7 "ROAD version" disc brakes with 160mm rotors.

    I am sure you know, but make sure you get the correct frame size, especially the top-tube that fits. I recommend that people do your body measurements at these 2 free sites:

    Wrench Science: https://www.wrenchscience.com/Login....%2fHeight.aspx (you need to sign up for a password - still free)
    and
    Competitive Cyclist: Fit Calculator - Competitive Cyclist

    look at the averages between what these 2 sites spit out for your measurements should be for a ROAD bike and subtract 1cm from the top-tube dimension.

    Then look for a cyclocross bike that lists the top-tube measurement.

  8. #8
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    If you're not looking at the Specialized because of loyalty or proximity to a LBS why not look at other disk equipped cross bikes?

    2012 JAMIS BICYCLES - NOVA RACE

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    I really like that Jamis. There's a dealer 5 miles from work. Thanks for the link!

    Bob

  10. #10
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    I would buy a complete bike from a reputable shop do some racing or whatever you're planning to do with this bike and go from there. You can be fit at the shop, which is very important and then you can work to improve whatever you feel may be lacking.

    If you start fresh, without knowing exactly what you want/need, then you're setting yourself up to spend more cash in the long run.

  11. #11
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    I'm a big fan of the Jamis too! I say go complete. I built mine up and could have bought a nicer bike for similar money. Live and learn I guess.

  12. #12
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    UPDATE: I visited the local Jamis dealer. They don't have any 2012 Nova Race models any more. However, they do have the next bike up in the lineup: a 2012 Nova Pro that has been marked down from $1800 to $1200. (making it only $50 more than an undiscounted Nova Race)

    In short:

    Nova Race: Disc brakes, 9 speed drivetrain
    Nova Pro: Canti brakes, 10 speed drivetrain

    Pros: SRAM Apex 10 speed drivetrain. 2 lbs lighter. Great selection of wheels since it uses canti brakes and 130mm spacing like my road bikes.
    Cons: Canti brakes. I was really set on getting a bike with discs.

    Their whole 2013 line is disc-equipped, so it is likely that I could get a 10-speed disc-equipped bike for the same price though it will be with lesser components and I won't get any kind of discount.

    I'm new to CX and don't race yet, but I do like trail riding and some of the trails I ride have long/steep hills and I'd like to be able to go out in inclement weather and not worry. Or, have I been drinking too much disc-brake kool-aid? My road bike uses rim brakes and I can't wait until discs are available since long descents really kill my hands. My 29er has hydro discs and it stops on a dime with one finger.

    Bob

  13. #13
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    For a cross race bike, canti's are preferred; I don't see any competitive racers running discs this season. For an all around bike, used for long downhill road descents in rainy weather - than yes discs are better. I still think that you can do well looking for a really nice alloy or alloy/carbon race frame used. Visit a local CX race; many times I see teams selling used stuff at the race. Also look at the "BLUE Norcross" alloy frame and matching carbon fork for $750: Blue Competition Cycles - Norcross SP If you buy, frame only - for an extra $450 (to equal $1200), you could get a very nice used parts/ wheel package.

  14. #14
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    V brakes are better for trail riding

    i run MTB v brakes on my CX bike and they work well.
    you could always swap out the OE canti's for the new shimano road v brakes. That is if the sram lever/shimano v brake pull ratios are the same.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik_A View Post
    For a cross race bike, canti's are preferred; I don't see any competitive racers running discs this season.
    Don't listen to this. Canti's are preferred by the retro grouches only. There are a lot of guys racing discs this year and the ones that are not, simply have too much invested in their canti bikes to switch over.

    Discs are here whether the retro grouch likes it or not. You're starting fresh, so do it right and buy the bike with superior braking technology. Make sure the rear spacing is 135mm so that you can use mountain hubs. If it's a 130mm disc frame, you're limiting yourself a lot.

    For me, I won't buy any frame that isn't disc ready. MTB, cross or road. Disc brakes are the wave of the future for all disciplines. Embrace it.

  16. #16
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    I have Mini-Vs on my 'cross bike. It's a change for this season and I haven't had them in all weather yet, but I like them a lot so far. Much better stopping power, no chatter. Sweet! Cheap too.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    I have Mini-Vs on my 'cross bike. It's a change for this season and I haven't had them in all weather yet, but I like them a lot so far. Much better stopping power, no chatter. Sweet! Cheap too.
    I will say that I've heard that mini v's are decent. Or at least better than canti's. I've had various cantilever brakes on my cross bike and they've all sucked. Avid, Shimano and TRP were all equally craptastic.

    Will the canti's stop you? Sure they will... just not as well as a decent disc setup will. a major part of racing is scrubbing speed and if you can scrub speed better than the next guy, then you have an enormous advantage. Just watch he doesn't ride your wheel late into the corner and then T-bone you when he realizes that his brakes suck. Hopefully, you've got enough of a gap that he just blows through the tape instead of ruining your wheel.

  18. #18
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    That Jamis is very nice for the money. Trek has an interesting al frame cx bike with disc brakes, carbon fork, internal routing, no gaudy graphics, etc. Only prob is the Sora components but the price is right around $1100. Enough room left to upgrade now or you can always wait until you blow through the Sora stuff.

    I almost pulled the trigger on the Nova Race until I ran across the Civilian Vive Le Roi (I really like steel frame with sliders for more options down the road). Really nice component spec at the price point but the wheelset is questionable. Also only has a single ring up front which may be a turnoff for some.
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  19. #19
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    I've decided to hold out until I can find a bike that is disc-equipped with 135mm rear spacing. 135 rear means I could swap my Stan's ZTR Crest wheels between the cross and 29er bikes. Those wheels are really light and work great for tubeless applications.

    The whole 2013 Jamis line is disc-equipped, but the shop wasn't sure if they will be 130 or 135. Time to check out the Trek and Specialized place again.

    Thanks for all of the input!

    Bob

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobonker View Post
    I've decided to hold out until I can find a bike that is disc-equipped with 135mm rear spacing. 135 rear means I could swap my Stan's ZTR Crest wheels between the cross and 29er bikes. Those wheels are really light and work great for tubeless applications.

    The whole 2013 Jamis line is disc-equipped, but the shop wasn't sure if they will be 130 or 135. Time to check out the Trek and Specialized place again.

    Thanks for all of the input!

    Bob

    Way to go on not pulling the trigger on an impulse buy! It's tough to hold out, at least for me. Sounds like you're really thinking it through, which should result in a solid bike for you. Having the ZTR's will be nice... you can have them in the pit as backup wheels and/or setup with different tires for different conditions.

  21. #21
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    I like my Lemond Poprad disc (in addition to my Cannondale race bike - w/ cantis), so no retro grouch here - but this season, there weren't any racers running disc brakes at in the 3 mid-Atlantic races that I have see (accept two U19 kids total). If you are an Elite or UCI master running discs, let's see a show of hands. Most people here don't race, do discs are better (long road or MTB downhills when wet). I am sure that this will change in a few years when discs are lighter and more standard equip on the better frames.

    Quote Originally Posted by BShow View Post
    Don't listen to this. Canti's are preferred by the retro grouches only. There are a lot of guys racing discs this year and the ones that are not, simply have too much invested in their canti bikes to switch over.

    Discs are here whether the retro grouch likes it or not. You're starting fresh, so do it right and buy the bike with superior braking technology. Make sure the rear spacing is 135mm so that you can use mountain hubs. If it's a 130mm disc frame, you're limiting yourself a lot.

    For me, I won't buy any frame that isn't disc ready. MTB, cross or road. Disc brakes are the wave of the future for all disciplines. Embrace it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik_A
    For a cross race bike, canti's are preferred; I don't see any competitive racers running discs this season.
    Last edited by Erik_A; 10-04-2012 at 11:58 AM.

  22. #22
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    I saw a fair number of discs last time I raced.

    I think that speed of takeover in a region is influenced a lot by how often people change out their bikes. I'm in Seattle, so there's definitely a group of tech people with more money than sense and nothing else to do with it. Lots of Cervelos on the roads, lots of shiny new bikes on the 'cross course every Fall, skinsuits and carbon wheels in Cat. 5 track racing, etc.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BShow View Post
    Way to go on not pulling the trigger on an impulse buy! It's tough to hold out, at least for me.
    This has been gut-wrenchingly hard. Believe me! LOL

    I'm really encouraged by the 2013 Jamis line though. I just can't get a straight answer about the rear hub spacing, so I'm going to wait until they show up at the local LBS.

    Bob

  24. #24
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    I like building my own bikes, but you're getting screwed paying retail for components when they're so much cheaper OEM. I've seen people buy a Bikes Direct bike only for the parts (assuming you get one of the models with nice spec) and sell the frame, using the parts on a better frame of their choice. That's why you see so many Moto frames on Ebay.

    Like sheepo and the others say, the frames are garbage.

    I have discs now and I'm never going back. Racers who buy expensive carbo wheels and wear them out with cantis are just pissing away their money. Using a $2000+ wheelset for a brake surface when you could use a rotor is insane.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexmurdock/8055599208/" title="DSC04356 by alexmurdock, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8449/8055599208_aa9effbd92_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="DSC04356"></a>

    Love the Crests!

  25. #25
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    I think that it comes down to weight. Cross bikes with disc brakes are heavier (due to wheels).

    Written from the perspective of touring, but good:

    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Gunton
    link: The Art of Bicycle Touring: Brakes: Disk vs Rim, oh god not this again

    Pros of disc brakes:

    Strong action
    Less affected by mud and water
    Unaffected by warped rims
    Pads last a long time
    No rim wear and tear
    No heated rims or tire blowouts on long descents
    Disc-specific rims can be slightly stronger
    They look cool, let's admit it!

    Cons of disc brakes:

    Put more stress on spokes
    You need a dished wheel, even in front
    More beefy forks required, since stress is put on one side
    Some risk of pulling front wheel out of the dropout due to torsional stress
    Weaker rear wheel, since more dished both sides
    Complicates rack attachment
    Complicates rear kickstand mounting
    Less standard worldwide, more likely to need FedEx
    Pads become useless if you get oil on them
    Disc rotor is smaller than rims, so heats up more quickly
    On long descents, red hot rotor can heat up hub (bad for bearings)
    Disc rotor can still become damaged in transit, harder to replace
    Disc brakes often need re-adjustment and often squeal for no apparent reason

    Pros of rim brakes:

    Simple, standard system
    Properly adjusted, can stop any bike
    Cheap replacement blocks
    Better mechanical advantage using rim
    No dishing of front wheel necessary
    Less stress on spokes
    Less wheel dishing = stronger wheels
    Less torque stress on front fork
    No tendency to pull front wheel out of dropouts
    Don't interfere with rack attachment
    Don't interfere with rear kickstand mount
    They let you know when your rim needs truing
    No risk of heating up your hubs on long descents

    Cons of rim brakes:

    Wear and tear on rims
    Risk tire blowout from heating up rims on long descents
    Affected by water and mud
    Not always as strong as disc
    Don't look as cool
    So which should you choose? Well,

  26. #26
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    shame they jacked the price of the dirty disco up to 800 bucks.
    2009 Fuji Tahoe Pro 29er
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik_A View Post
    I think that it comes down to weight. Cross bikes with disc brakes are heavier (due to wheels).

    Written from the perspective of touring, but good:
    Just curious, did you read the stuff you quoted before you posted it? Because what I just read is comprised of a series of opinions and speculatory comments that are nearly irrelevant to cyclocross racing and bikes in general. Also, this mess was typed up in 2003, which if I recall was towards the beginning of disc brakes becoming mainstream on mountain bikes. A lot has changed in the past decade and almost none of the arguments in your post hold up anymore - for either braking system.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by BShow View Post
    Don't listen to this. Canti's are preferred by the retro grouches only. There are a lot of guys racing discs this year and the ones that are not, simply have too much invested in their canti bikes to switch over. t.
    Does the finish order change because one is running discs and the other is not? Since when is 'cross racing a braking contest where the racer with the best brakes and no speed the winner? In some conditions/locales, discs will absolutely be a better choice. All conditions? All locales? No.

    The bromance is on really hot and heavy for discs. No doubt about it. If where you live has, on average, awful mostly muddy/snowy conditions, discs might help. If your area has some mud or less, they probably won't make a bit of difference.

    That is not to say the zombie bicycle racing fashion police won't ding you for not spending thousands upgrading from last years thousands spent on carbon wheels for local racing glory. That's a different competition on race day. You have to decide which competition is more important to you.

    FWIW, I run v-brakes. I like then because they don't stick out though. I've been gouged by outboard canti's too many times. Yes, there's more braking power. But where I am it's mostly dry so it doesn't really matter.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trooper46 View Post
    shame they jacked the price of the dirty disco up to 800 bucks.
    The intro price was 800 (what i paid), but then they put remaining stock on sale, until the new shipment arrived. There may be some changes to the new batch.

    I've had mine 6 months. I would give it full housing on the rear der run from top tube down seatstay to derailleur. I drilled my cable stops out to do that, but otherwise you'll get water down that loop of housing.

  30. #30
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    I see at least one error on that Neil Gunton post. The rear wheel dish will actually be less with discs, since the dish required for the rotor on one side is counter balanced by the dish required for the cassette on the other.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by asphalt_jesus View Post
    ...In some conditions/locales, discs will absolutely be a better choice...
    This statement is true.

    Arguing that the ability to scrub speed more efficiently than your competitors is not an advantage, however, is ludicrous. Unless you're racing in a straight line, your braking ability can drastically affect the outcome of the race. Disc brakes work better. Period. This is not bromance, this is fact.

    The weight of a disc braking system itself is about the only viable disadvantage. You'll add roughly a pound to the bike with a disc system.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudrock View Post
    I see at least one error on that Neil Gunton post. The rear wheel dish will actually be less with discs, since the dish required for the rotor on one side is counter balanced by the dish required for the cassette on the other.
    I agree with Neil on at least a couple points: Disc brakes make it difficult to mount racks and kickstands. That's just a huge pain in my azz. How ever will I portage my sixpack of PBR pounders without a proper rack? And the kickstand? How will I stand up my pit bike without one?

    Eff it /// I'm sticking with cantis.

  33. #33
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    From the "Chinese Carbon CX" Thread -

    Quote Originally Posted by Trooper46 View Post
    shame they jacked the price of the dirty disco up to 800 bucks.

    email: BEV.INTL@msa.hinet.net

    ask for:

    BVC-7007 Cyclocross frame, V-brake, with matching fork: FCC-616

    or

    BVC-7009 Cyclocross frame, Disc brake, with matching fork: FCC-702

    http://www.bev-intl.com/e-catalog/09/p1.htm


    Or try your luck here:

    Wholesale carbon cyclocross - Buy Low Price carbon cyclocross Lots on Aliexpress.com
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Build it or buy it?  Input welcome.-bev-bike-frames.jpg  


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    haha, funny.

    More of the commuter-oriented frames (and some crossers) are coming with the rear brake cable routed on the downtube, with the brake on post mounts attached to the chainstay. That way the rear dropouts are free for rack and fender mounting.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by BShow View Post
    Arguing that the ability to scrub speed more efficiently
    Is a 'cross race a braking contest???? It's not. Line Stybar up with cantilevers and JPow with discs and the Stybar is *still* going to clobber him. Same holds true at a local level. Disc brakes will never take a mid-pack rider out of the middle of the pack. Most of the time, it won't be responsible for a huge gap.

    Quote Originally Posted by BShow View Post
    your braking ability can drastically affect the outcome of the race. Disc brakes work better. Period. This is not bromance, this is fact.
    Screamed the bike magazine publisher and the entire bike industry. The young dude behind the counter at the pro bike shop was more low-key about them.

    Define "work." Again, some rare conditions discs will be better. Down at the level where racers are buying their gear, no Brodeal, for glory at the local race, discs are not going to transform anyone from mid-pack to podium. EPO does that.

  36. #36
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    Interesting brake discussion; I am building up a CX bike at the moment so read it quite keenly. I am not a CX racer, I have raced XC quite a lot in the enthusiastic amateur cat, progressing now to the life begins at 40 mid life crisis cat. I went through the V Brake to disc brake arguments in the MTB world in the late 90's early 2000's; (forgeting DH type applications with huge rotors and heavy duty calipers) the main advantage as I see it to disc brakes is not overall stopping power, -( XTR V brakes, SD 7's are just as good at stopping as the high end magura marta mags on my XC bike now)
    Modulation or braking control is the single biggest advantage of discs to me. hydraulic disc brakes generate something like 5 or 6 times the power of rim brakes and the disc caliper set up is completely non compressible, this give much more consistent and controllable braking than any rim set up in my experience, it is much easier to shed just the right amount speed. Also with the rise in popularity of carbon rims - which are sketchy at best when it comes to rim braking I think it's only a matter of time before disc brakes become the norm.
    It will need quite a bit of work and testing by designers to cope with the increased loads on wheels, frames and forks that are induced by disc braking systems so it will take a few seasons.
    There is also the problem of aerodynamics for roadies to overcome, shoving a caliper on the front fork is certainly going to create significant drag - I wouldn't be surprised to see disc brake setups being used in the TdF for high mountain / descent stages sooner rather than later but on the other stages I think it's a few years away yet.
    As always with such things once somone starts consistently winning using something new the impetous for other competitors, manufacturers and the demand from the credit card wheelding ranks of amateurs will drive the change through can't say for CX but for roadies I don't see this being for a few years yet. The manufacturers have a lot of capital invested in the current light weight and aerodynamic performance bikes to let that happen.

  37. #37
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    I finished my last season on a pretty frustrating note. Someone took me out during the start and I ended up at the bottom of a small pileup. I got underway again and finished, but I was pretty close to the back and didn't make back enough time to finish in the leader's lap. Lame.

    One of my frustrations that day (I'm in the Pacific Northwest and this was January, so it was wet, of course) was that I was having real trouble dropping speed to corner. I'd go back in the pack a little bit more each time I did one of the 180s.

    Actually, this was what inspired me to sit down and work out the dynamics of the different rim brake systems. I had Kore Sport cantilever brakes, which I now believe to be a garbage design, before even getting into issues of quality. I'd been hearing from lots of people that all cantilever brakes suck, but I was beginning to doubt that because they're also popular on touring bikes, where high-profile sidepulls are also feasible, and they were reputed to be able to put a dent in a MTB rim if you hauled on them.

    So my attitude on braking is that in 'cross, a little better or a little worse doesn't make that much difference. Since taking the Kore brakes off my bike, I think they're actually a very poor example of a cantilever brake, so I'm open to the idea that there are some pretty functional designs out there too. However, I think that when braking starts to function extremely poorly, it becomes a real problem.

    FWIW, I have V-brakes on my 'cross bike too. I haven't had them in crappy weather yet, but I'm optimistic. I couldn't even get decent performance out of my Kores on a dry road, and I had good brake pads and tried a few different straddle cable heights. The V-brakes stop great. I'm sure they'll be less great when there's mud on my rims, but I'm hopeful that they'll still be more functional than the Kores were.

    A while ago, I almost dropped out of a XC race because of brake problems. It was early in the season and super-muddy. At one point, I blew right through the tape because the brakes weren't doing anything.

    As with most aspects of a race bike, the first things I'm looking for are that the component in question doesn't actually quit working and make me leave time on course or bow out of the race, and that the component in question doesn't do something actively and significantly weird, or perform significantly below the norm. I don't see that disc brakes have that big an advantage over a properly functioning rim brake for racing. For road or trail riding, maybe, and I think the system is a bit lower maintenance - pads last longer, rotors are easy to replace but last a long time, and it doesn't chew rims.

    Since both bikes the OP is looking at are disc bikes anyway, not a decision for him. But there you go.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  38. #38
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    I take it you were using disc brakes on your XC bike? I haven't had to give up a race because of a disc brake problem but I have chewed through a brand new set of pads (just bedded in) down to 0.5mm in one race when it was super muddy - same race I trashed the bearings in a brand new XT BB.
    Had just built up the bike for the new season and ended up with a virtual rebuild after the first race.
    When I blow through the tape it's normally due to my crappy technique and lack of bike handling skills rather than mechanical issues.

  39. #39
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    Yeah, disc brakes. BB5s, and actually that incident, and the generally frightening speed of wear on those pads, were what got me thinking about new brakes. I bought my hydraulics for the self-adjust, but I really like how they perform on a ride now that I've got them.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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    I was running pretty expensive goodridge pads on the marta mags - given the right conditions (or more accurately the wrong conditions) they can be detroyed in hours - would have been metal on metal with the stock pads before the end I think.
    For my CX build I managed to pick up a pair of the new Shimano CX70 canti's at cost from my local shop they had ordered them in for somone who paid a deposit and doesn't want them, will try them out with Kool stop salmon pads next weekend - they have good reviews. If they don't work out I will put them onto the crosscheck I'm building up as my commuter / light tourer / gp bike and go with the mini v's.

  41. #41
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    if your a big guy jenson has the focus mares ax3 on sale right now, but only in xxl and xxxl. I just picked up a xxl w/ a 58cm TT and a 60cm ST. Should fit me perfect.
    2009 Fuji Tahoe Pro 29er
    1982 Fuji Supreme
    200? Cannondale Prophet
    2011 Focus Mares AX3

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    The Geometry of Cantilever Brakes

    Sheldon Brown has a write up on the mechanical advantage of cantis (of course). Kores, like the original Mafacs, have a poor design if your looking for stopping power. The Avid Shorty Ultimates, that allow you to change arm angle, are much better. But I think v-brakes are better than either. V- brakes don't require so much toe-in to prevent brake chatter. And for mud, esp. grassy muddy courses like you probably get, discs are the best. It's all about clearance at that point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by asphalt_jesus View Post
    Is a 'cross race a braking contest???? It's not. Line Stybar up with cantilevers and JPow with discs and the Stybar is *still* going to clobber him. Same holds true at a local level. Disc brakes will never take a mid-pack rider out of the middle of the pack. Most of the time, it won't be responsible for a huge gap.

    Define "work." Again, some rare conditions discs will be better. Down at the level where racers are buying their gear, no Brodeal, for glory at the local race, discs are not going to transform anyone from mid-pack to podium. EPO does that.
    You're absolutely right that if you're mid pack, any given bike component - brakes or otherwise - is not going to get you on the podium. Any given component choice might gain - or cost - you a few spots here or there. In racing, that matters.
    Regarding the rest of your hooey, I cannot believe that you're arguing that brakes have no impact on racing -- It's just not believable, at all. therefore I have come to the conclusion that you're just kidding. Good Joke!

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