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  1. #1
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    Bianchi Steel Classic Volpe cyclocross

    I'm thinking of purchasing the bike. Can I simply replace the CRANKSET FSA Vero Triple 50/39/30, with the Shimano SLX M660 crankset?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinthai View Post
    I'm thinking of purchasing the bike. Can I simply replace the CRANKSET FSA Vero Triple 50/39/30, with the Shimano SLX M660 crankset?
    Yes, as long as the BB and FD are compatible. If not, you'll have to replace those too.
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  3. #3
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    No, that MTB crank won't work - your need a road crank to use the same FD


    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinthai View Post
    I'm thinking of purchasing the bike. Can I simply replace the CRANKSET FSA Vero Triple 50/39/30, with the Shimano SLX M660 crankset?

  4. #4
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    You'll need the mountain BB and spacers, as the BB shell is 68mm.
    You'll also need some skill to get the front derailleur to work. It can be done, but adjusting a front derailleur seems to stump a lot of shop mechanics.

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    Thanks to all help and suggestions above. The BB shell on the Velope is 68mm. I assume this is for road bike?

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    Yes, 68mm is road. For cyclocross, you don't want/ need a MTB crank. Sell it and buy a road crank.

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    Thanks again. The bike already comes with road crank. I'd like mtb crank for touring.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinthai View Post
    Thanks again. The bike already comes with road crank. I'd like mtb crank for touring.

    It is a triple right? I assume it is a 130 BCD size crank set, so replace your 50T with a 46 ring on the front and a 12-30 cassette in the back - perfect for touring. If you need easier gearing put a MTB rear derailleur and a 11-36 cassette on the back.

    ( Chainrings for Sram Red 130bcd? - Weight Weenies )

  9. #9
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    A lot of people use mtb cranks for touring- I`m one of them. Replacing big rings does nothing to lower a granny gear. Switching to a cassette with a humongous big sprocket will lower it of course, but not everybody prefers that method.

    As far as the derailler goes, my understanding is that if its indexed you`ll need corresponding (road or mountain) FD, and that either will work with the rings as long as the shifter is happy with it. My front shifting is all friction, so I`ve never had to worry about that personally.
    Recalculating....

  10. #10
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    FD needs to play well with shifters so make sure they are compatible.

  11. #11
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    Volpe | Bianchi USA
    Above is the link for the subject bike.

  12. #12
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    Since the stock FSA Vero crank uses a JIS square taper BB the quickest solution would appear to be an FSA Dynadrive MTB crank since it can use the same BB and would maintain the chain line. Sticking to a square taper or spline drive crank allows you to keep a 68mm road BB while running an 84/104 MTB crank.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowJoeCrow View Post
    Since the stock FSA Vero crank uses a JIS square taper BB the quickest solution would appear to be an FSA Dynadrive MTB crank since it can use the same BB and would maintain the chain line. Sticking to a square taper or spline drive crank allows you to keep a 68mm road BB while running an 84/104 MTB crank.
    Thanks SlowJoeCrow for your very helpful suggestion.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowJoeCrow View Post
    Since the stock FSA Vero crank uses a JIS square taper BB the quickest solution would appear to be an FSA Dynadrive MTB crank since it can use the same BB and would maintain the chain line. Sticking to a square taper or spline drive crank allows you to keep a 68mm road BB while running an 84/104 MTB crank.
    I've been able to locate an FSA Dynadrive MTB crank taken off Bianchi Kuma 5300. The BB has a label indicating
    IP Components
    BC - 73
    68
    BC 1.37x24T
    L(eft)< 113mm > R(ight)

    Would you suggest this crank set?

  15. #15
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    BTW, I've finally made the commitment, and will pick up my Velope tomorrow.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowJoeCrow View Post
    Since the stock FSA Vero crank uses a JIS square taper BB the quickest solution would appear to be an FSA Dynadrive MTB crank since it can use the same BB and would maintain the chain line. Sticking to a square taper or spline drive crank allows you to keep a 68mm road BB while running an 84/104 MTB crank.
    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinthai View Post
    I've been able to locate an FSA Dynadrive MTB crank taken off Bianchi Kuma 5300. The BB has a label indicating
    IP Components
    BC - 73
    68
    BC 1.37x24T
    L(eft)< 113mm > R(ight)

    Would you suggest this crank set?
    ( picked up the velope today, and had the FSA Dynadrive MTB crank installed. It took quite a bit of tuning, but now function flawlessly. Thank you very much, SlowJoeCrow. Mean while, I'm leaving the rear cog as it is. Should I contemplate a step climb trip, I may have 12-36 cog set installed with corresponding mtb Rear Derailleur.
    Last edited by wheelinthai; 06-28-2013 at 11:05 PM. Reason: to correcr spelling

  17. #17
    weirdo
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    Sounds like a good plan. I wish I had a Volpe
    Recalculating....

  18. #18
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    Good to hear that worked out for you.
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  19. #19
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    OK. Thanks a lot again SlowJoeCrow. I've just returned from a test ride. The bike performed flawlessly. I was concerned with the up shift to bigger front rings. The shift was slower and needed more persuation, but that's when compared to the Durace on my road bike. No complaint here. The bike fits me very well and now I know the term comfort of touring bike. And I thought I was comfortable on my road and mountain bike converted for tarmac, after 100miles + per day.
    Dear rodar y rodar, I can heartily recommend the Velope. When I first look and heft the Velope, I had a little apprehension. But the ride left me with a smile on my face.

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